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NikoFab's 1986 Starion ESI-R


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#41 demonquest22

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 10:05 PM

yeah John
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1989 Conquest tsi fiji: on the road
1988 Palermo grey: on the road
1988 Conquest tsi fiji: in storage for sale





#42 NikoFab

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 10:15 PM

View Postdemonquest22, on 25 June 2012 - 10:05 PM, said:

yeah John
do you know where he disappeared to?

#43 demonquest22

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 06:08 PM

He is still around I just bought a car from him a couple of weeks ago.
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1989 Conquest tsi fiji: on the road
1988 Palermo grey: on the road
1988 Conquest tsi fiji: in storage for sale

#44 NikoFab

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 06:40 PM

View Postdemonquest22, on 26 June 2012 - 06:08 PM, said:

He is still around I just bought a car from him a couple of weeks ago.
Sweet...is he on here?

#45 demonquest22

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 07:45 PM

yeah but haven't seen him on in a long time
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1989 Conquest tsi fiji: on the road
1988 Palermo grey: on the road
1988 Conquest tsi fiji: in storage for sale

#46 NikoFab

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 08:40 PM

View Postdemonquest22, on 26 June 2012 - 07:45 PM, said:

yeah but haven't seen him on in a long time
ok thank you.  would like to get in touch with him again.  what's his profile name?

#47 demonquest22

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 08:49 PM

jwbrcloud
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1989 Conquest tsi fiji: on the road
1988 Palermo grey: on the road
1988 Conquest tsi fiji: in storage for sale

#48 NikoFab

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 08:52 PM

View Postdemonquest22, on 26 June 2012 - 08:49 PM, said:

jwbrcloud
awesome thanks

#49 NikoFab

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 08:53 PM

View Postdemonquest22, on 26 June 2012 - 08:49 PM, said:

jwbrcloud
did a member search...wasn't found  :(

#50 NikoFab

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Posted 06 July 2012 - 09:25 PM

1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R
Date: 7/6/12

Ok, finally had a day off and was able to install the front strut braces I purchased from ESIrType?  Couldn't be more pleased with them.  Although the strut tower nuts were hell to get off...thank the Lord for Liquid Wrench.

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Edited by Nikolaya, 06 July 2012 - 09:42 PM.


#51 NikoFab

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Posted 13 July 2012 - 10:19 PM

1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R
Date: 7/13/12

Ok...another day off...and some more work done!  Well as I stated earlier, I've purchased some aftermarket Sparco (decided against the Corbeaus) seats.  Problem being is that the rails on the new seats come nowhere near being able to mate up to the stock mounting locations.  I looked around for some adapters, but wasn't able to find any.  Soooooooo, decided to fabricate my own...

This is a pic from below the stock passenger seat.  Notice the inner rear (lower right in the picture) mount is on a different plane than the other three, which are relatively planar (this would prove challenging).

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You see here that the stock rails are 17.75 inches apart center to center

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Now look at the underside of the new passenger seat.  The rails are perfectly straight and as such wouldn't mount to the stock locations.  Not to mention the new rails don't account for the inner rear mount I mention above...had to think a little bit about that one.  ;)

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Below you'll also notice that the new rails are 14.25 inches apart center to center...a full 3.5 inches narrower than stock.  My solution to this was to make new rails that mounted directly to the stock mounting location, and then join them by two cross-members to provide locations in which to bolt the new rails to (see following posts).

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Edited by Nikolaya, 13 July 2012 - 10:21 PM.


#52 NikoFab

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Posted 13 July 2012 - 10:48 PM

1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R
Date: 7/13/12

This is a good shot of the passenger seat removed in order to observe the mounting locations.  Notice that the outer mounts are semi-planar, but the rail still needs to be fabricated in such a way as to clear the floor transom.

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My dad always said to measure twice and cut once.  Well I measured more than twice on everything, and was rewarded in the end by not wasting any material.

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I was originally looking at a combination of flat iron and angle iron (right) for this project, but settled on 1/8 inch shallow C-channel (left) instead.  That way I could go with a smaller gauge to conserve weight, without sacrificing strength.  However this too would provide the challenge of getting the rail to clear the floor transom.  You'll see the solution in a little bit.  :)

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First step was to cut all my pieces in accordance with my measurements.  I used a 14 inch cutting saw for this.

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My solution to getting the C-channel to take a bend without warping was to cut the channel returns down to the main plane.  This would help the piece to not only take the bend, but would help to prevent stress fractures.  So I measured where I needed the bend to take...

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Then cut the returns at my measurement...

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Now I'm almost ready to attempt the bend!

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Edited by Nikolaya, 13 July 2012 - 10:54 PM.


#53 NikoFab

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Posted 13 July 2012 - 10:54 PM

1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R
Date: 7/13/12

I went ahead and drilled holes for the mounting locations before affecting the bend, which helped significantly.  Had I done it after affecting the bend, I would have run the risk of a skewed drill hole.

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#54 NikoFab

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Posted 13 July 2012 - 10:59 PM

1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R
Date: 7/13/12


I didn't want to rely completely on the return cuts to affect the bend successfully, so I also employed my vice and a 1500 degree heat gun.  After each of the ten or so movements, I dipped the piece into a water bath to help temper the metal.  I'm actually proud of that move!

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Here is the piece with the appropriate bend.  I drilled the rear hole AFTER fitting it to the floor, in order to confirm my measurement!

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#55 NikoFab

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Posted 13 July 2012 - 11:10 PM

1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R
Date: 7/13/12


Here's some shots of the new outer rail bolted into the car.  Pretty good fitment.

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This next shot is from the driver's seat looking right.  You can really see here the bend in the rail and how it helps the rail clear the floor transom..

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#56 Lance_S

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Posted 13 July 2012 - 11:11 PM

Strut bar looks great Nick.  In the pic with the yellow one, something is missing, just can't quite figure it out.  :-)
Hardpipes, MAFT, GM MAS, 3" DP, 2.5" exhaust, 950/1050 Trilogy injectors, K&N filter, Machined and balance flywheel 23 lbs, short shift, 88/89 tranny, HD ACT clutch, DSM EVO3 S16g ported (21 psi), polished and clipped, NJV head (ported), larger SS Valves, Schneider springs, Ajusa HG, Adjustable FPR, MBC, BOV, MSD coil, Walbro 255, ABS, EGR and balance shaft elim, 88/89 ECU, UEGO 02, new or rebuilt everything.

My feedback:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=127993

#57 NikoFab

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Posted 13 July 2012 - 11:14 PM

1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R
Date: 7/13/12

I wont' bore you with all the same detail on the inner rail, but I did want to show how I was able to account for the inner rear non-planar mount.  Thought it worked out pretty well.  I simply took a piece of C-channel and welded it to the side of the rail.  Once welded, I pulled it to trim it off, and cut the mounting hole.

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#58 NikoFab

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Posted 13 July 2012 - 11:15 PM

View PostLance_S, on 13 July 2012 - 11:11 PM, said:

Strut bar looks great Nick. In the pic with the yellow one, something is missing, just can't quite figure it out. :-)
LOL!  The motor is hiding in the garage right now and the tranny I bought from Frenchi is on a palate heading this way...woohoo!

#59 NikoFab

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Posted 13 July 2012 - 11:23 PM

1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R
Date: 7/13/12

Then I took measurements...AGAIN...and cut my cross members.  At this point I lightly welded everything together WHILE BOLTED INTO THE CAR.  This is important and dangerous.  Important because by welding while bolted, I assured myself that the welds would not break (as a result of torquing the bolts down) if I were to bolt everything in AFTER welding.  Dangerous because there's still upholstery in the car that could ignite, and the potential for slag to fly everywhere.  Just another reason I have not installed the front carpeting yet...trying to think ahead!  Pics below are of the entire assembly after the light welding.

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#60 Lance_S

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Posted 13 July 2012 - 11:39 PM

View PostNikolaya, on 13 July 2012 - 11:15 PM, said:

LOL!  The motor is hiding in the garage right now and the tranny I bought from Frenchi is on a palate heading this way...woohoo!

Oh, the motor!!!  Yeah, that's it.  Glad its coming together.  Good lookin out.
Hardpipes, MAFT, GM MAS, 3" DP, 2.5" exhaust, 950/1050 Trilogy injectors, K&N filter, Machined and balance flywheel 23 lbs, short shift, 88/89 tranny, HD ACT clutch, DSM EVO3 S16g ported (21 psi), polished and clipped, NJV head (ported), larger SS Valves, Schneider springs, Ajusa HG, Adjustable FPR, MBC, BOV, MSD coil, Walbro 255, ABS, EGR and balance shaft elim, 88/89 ECU, UEGO 02, new or rebuilt everything.

My feedback:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=127993




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