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RE: Alternator for 1988 Starion

starzky

By starzky,
in Virtual Mechanic

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starzky Rookie

starzky

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I think my alternator is failing and it's time to upgrade.

The dashboard lights is dimming when I hit the brake to stop. And it won't hold a charge for 2 weeks, brought it to a store 5 months ago to have it check they said it's good.

 

Any difference with 87 to 89 alternators?

 

Should I replaced my Alternator with a GM type ? and if I do

Do I need to to do any adjustment or re-configurations with anything that has to do with electrical or the computer?

like this one from AutZone (Proform/100 Amps Part# 66445.1N or 80 Amps)

 

http://www.autozone....ier=523737_0_0_

 

 

Is it safe? any risk? Or should I stay with the stock?

 

ANY recomendations ????

 

Thanks To All in advanced

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JohnnyWadd Newbie

JohnnyWadd

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There is a nice one on ebay its a stock replacement. The stock alternator is fine I don't know what the big deal with the gm ones is. Here is a old 1987 alternator pulling plenty of amps after a quick rebuilt in one of my classes. (brushes only)And that was not even a full field test the load is on "low"

13 VOLTS and 96amps

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/stRION%20ALTERNATOR%20BENCH%20TEST/2013-10-23102333.jpg

Edited by JohnnyWadd
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mr-starion Newbie

mr-starion

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My original 87 alternator would never hold steady voltage, I found my volt meter reading between 12.0 and 12.7 even after a rebuild. Turning anything on would create a massive draw of power. Swapped over to a Gm 130 amp and Never went below 13.2 volts. I average 14.3 and it dips to 13.2 when i turn my flashes on. Problem With a Gm one is That you need to make the brackets for it. Jeff i think thaïs the strongest quest alternator i ever Saw!
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TexasQuest Community Regular

TexasQuest

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THIS: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-Starion-Conquest-100-Amp-Alternator-1987-1989-REMANUFACTURED-/380679385380?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58a2427124&vxp=mtr I have one and it's a nice upgrade. Only modification needed is a larger ring terminal on the harness.
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vbrad511 Newbie

vbrad511

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Whatever route you take you're better off staying away from the chain stores. Places like Autozone and Advance use the cheapest rebuilders they can find, and that means cheapest parts the rebuilders can find. If you're not going to upgrade, and are going to go back stock, have your OEM unit rebuilt.
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ucw458 Grand Master

ucw458

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This sounds like your wiring not the alternator.

 

Alot of stuff gets power from the ignition switch. Run a fused 10ga wire from the battery+ to the ignition switch. Then clean the terminals on the switch inside and out. That should take care of the dimming problem. The stock wires to the switch are just barely enough. Adding a second wire adds capacity and fixes some issues.

 

 

As for the battery not lasting 2 weeks, either you have a slow draw that kills the battery or you have a dying battery. Either way putting a new alternator in wont fix that problem.

Edited by ucw458
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JohnnyWadd Newbie

JohnnyWadd

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Yup, and a simple voltage drop test across the ignition switch will tell a lot. about the charging system.

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Malykaii Newbie

Malykaii

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Don't mean to thread jack, but since were on the topic.

 

Every fourth or so time I start my truck, and mainly when its already somewhat warmed up, the battery light comes on and stays on. Only once I tap the gas past 1200 or so rpm does it go away. I plan on verifying with a multimeter what the charge is since the factory volt gauge is very unclear and moves slowly.

 

I never had this problem when I had my factory 50amp montero alternator. It began after I did a turbo swap and put in the parts car's 75amp alternator. I'm going with the alt is shot? Any cheap solutions since I can't afford the 100amp one now. (Been driving with my 50amp in the trunk and tools just in case it fully goes.)

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Starfighterpilot Newbie

Starfighterpilot

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This sounds like your wiring not the alternator.

 

Alot of stuff gets power from the ignition switch. Run a fused 10ga wire from the battery+ to the ignition switch. Then clean the terminals on the switch inside and out. That should take care of the dimming problem. The stock wires to the switch are just barely enough. Adding a second wire adds capacity and fixes some issues.

 

 

As for the battery not lasting 2 weeks, either you have a slow draw that kills the battery or you have a dying battery. Either way putting a new alternator in wont fix that problem.

 

I don't agree with just throwing parts at a problem to correct it, without testing to determine what the ROOT CAUSE of the problem is before hand. Testing can save you a LOT of money and beating your head against the wall. ;)

 

I agree with what Jeff said - battery not maintaining it's charge for 2 weeks indicates to him & me that you may have a cell in it which is giving up the ghost. Take the battery into a Mom & Pops auto electric shop and have them load test it. I say Mom & Pops electrical shop cuz most of the after market auto parts stores have employees that don't know their butt from a hole in the floor on how to properly load test a battery, or load test an alternator.

 

If the battery tests bad you may have found the MAIN root cause of your problem. However other lesser problems in you Lady's electrical systems may still be lurking.

 

If the battery tests good then:

 

Remove all of the wiring at the battery positive pole and clean all of the metal connectors including the battery pole to make sure that every metal connector is bright and shiny, that there is no corrosion underneath the wiring insulator jacket in the near vicinity of each metal connector; and there is no evidence of melted crispy or discolored wiring insulation. Don't forget to do the same to the negative pole too.

 

If the above is good, check to see if all of the alternator mounting fasteners are tight and the mount mating surfaces are squeeky clean.

 

If the problem still exists, then remove the alternator and take it into the Mom & Pop shop and have it checked out for proper operation under all loaded/unloaded conditions. Their cost for testing & rebuilding is about $70 vice buying a low cost bidder "rebuilt" alternator from an after market auto parts shop - whose alternators are junk (including the GM ones) which will cost you hundreds of dollars.

 

 

Then and only then ( I'd do this regardless) start looking at the power wiring insulation going to the ignition switch (Switched Power); the wiring going to the main fuse box under the drivers side dash (Unswitched Power); where it goes into & comes out of the fusible link boxes by the battery. Check the fusible link boxes for evidence of corrossion & melting of the fusible link boxes plastic housings/connectors. See FSM, page 8 - 102 thru 8 - 105. See this link for how to do this http://starquest.i-x...opic.php?t=1180

 

If you need it after testing, replace the ignition switch with a Rock Auto one, Standard Motor Products, PN US505 for $42.89 + shipping. Or Mitsu PN MB39 8854, which I think are still available from Mitsu.

 

Then I'd start going through & cleaning all of the engine house & some of the passenger compartment grounds. See this link for how to do this. http://starquest.i-x...topic.php?t=916

 

Ya might also want to consider installing the separate alternator body ground wire shown in PQ's link, about half way down the page http://starquest.i-x...er=asc&start=25 This ensures that your GOOD alternator is putting out all of the current that it possibly can.

 

One thing to remember about replacing an '87 alternator with an "88/89 is that the pulley sizes are different. '88/89 alt uses a pully with a 3/8" throat and the '87 alt uses a pulley with a 5/16" throat. Ya gotta change the pulleys so the belt size is the same for the Alt, coolant pump and crankshaft pulleys.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

 

PS - For your slow turn signal problem, in addition to low voltage, you should definitely consider changing out your OLD factory flasher with a new one. Get a EL-12 flasher from an auto parts store and replace the old one with it.

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  • 7 months later...
slowbra01 Newbie

slowbra01

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That's pretty much what the ebay alternator upgrade is. It has a Hyundai symbol stamped on it.

 

When using this alternator, did you just use the same belt? Or was a different length belt needed? If it's a different belt needed, got a part number?

 

I need to buy this alternator, i just need to know which belt i need to buy. I like the Gates, but i need length or part number is even better!

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