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engine swap 2jz 1jz rebuild

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#1 Portal_1

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 03:23 AM

Hello all, its me again... with more fun stories of my conquest.

Recently after a drive, I discovered it had blown oil over the right side of the engine bay (if you are facing the cars hood)
dipstick was pushed up about 1- 1/12 inches (nosy neighbors and a broken hood release)

However, while I drove it that day, the smoke from the exhaust stopped! As soon as the dipstick was properly reseated, smoke started up again out the exhaust

I think the seals in the turbo are bad, (smoke seeping through after it was driven) but what could be causing this level of backpressure on the system? Some have told me it could be bad rings, but I am unsure.

With the engine behaving this way, and consuming an ungodly amounts of oil within its few short drives, I began pricing engine parts for the rebuild. my total is coming near $2,500 for just parts. I am able to find 1 and 2jz gte models for 2-3k online, including a transmission and ecu.

I would like to have room to expand this cars hp potential in the future, but do not need it immediately. Just need something stable enough to daily drive.

would you suggest the engine rebuild, or a used engine and transmission for reliability and room to upgrade?
(note:  any information on  various swaps would be much appreciated!)





#2 87redcat

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 04:08 AM

Clean the oil catch can located on the passenger wheel well in the engine bay. And clean or replace the pcv valve located on the front of the valve cover. Get one from Dad, aka Randy at enginemachineservice.com
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#3 croquest87

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 05:31 AM

Like the post above said.l would attempt to clean the catch and new pcv valve OEM problem could go away.
If problem persists most likely you have lots of blowby into the crankcase due to(bad rings/overboost burns on cylinder walls/warped cylinders from overheating /scoring) which is making that dipstick pop out when you are in boost it's just to much for the system to take. How's your compression? If you pull that one hose that goes from the back of valve cover and see lots of mist coming out of it at idle?your pcv is stuck and vacum is not pulling the mist/oil into the motor. Or it's just to much blowby for the vacum to pull it through the pcv into the engine(major blowby)  l have used this method many times when buying these cars to determine the cond of that motor quick (proven method)
After my rebuild compression was around 145  after driving the car around 2000 miles and all things seated/broken in its around 148 on all 4 cylinders.There is no mist coming out of that hose from back of the valve cover at idle.No stick popping on boost or oil burning.Stock catch is designed very well on these cars if maintained properly. Its usually miles age and lack of proper maintenance that leads to this kind of issues for all of us. O yea and my favorite subject OVERBOOSTING lol
Cracked cylinder head will have similar symptoms but its usually associated w loss of compression and oil/coolant and lots of pressure in your radiator(coolant shooting out and gas presence.



                                         Swap can be done if you can do good amount of fabrication and such. The way l see it is if you can do swap yourself? You should have no problem rebuilding a g54b on your own.Stock rebuild is pretty affordable if you do it by yourself.
2jz would look nice under the hood though.

Edited by croquest87, 04 January 2019 - 08:02 AM.


#4 importwarrior

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 01:19 PM

the crank case is pressurizing. did you remove the check valves near the ABS system? is the PCV working properly?
it has a check valve in the PCV and should close under boost. did you remove the rear vent hose on back of valve cover?

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#5 Portal_1

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 02:55 PM

According to the stock gauges, the boost stays between 7 and 14, I'll check the pcv system. I don't think the head is cracked, my oil isn't milky, doesn't smell of gas, doesn't overheat. So I'll check the pcv system, then if it doesn't fix the issue I guess I'll pull the engine and start rebuilding it.

Any suggestions on how to clean the pcv system? Usually I hear to use gasoline or something like WD40. Would this work?

#6 croquest87

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 03:01 PM

I use sonic cleaner w diesel. Simple green to degrease it after. I dip it in diesel again and blow it out w air.

#7 Portal_1

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 03:04 PM

Other then engine mounts, trans mount, widening the trans tunnel, custom driveshaft, is there any other (major) expenses to a swap that I'm not thinking of?

#8 Portal_1

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 03:07 PM

View Postcroquest87, on 04 January 2019 - 03:01 PM, said:

I use sonic cleaner w diesel. Simple green to degrease it after. I dip it in diesel again and blow it out w air.

By Sonic cleaner, do you mean an ultrasonic cleaner? Or is it a chemical?

Edited by Portal_1, 04 January 2019 - 03:29 PM.


#9 croquest87

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 03:44 PM

That's ultrasonic cleaner without heat when cleaning w diesel.

Edited by croquest87, 04 January 2019 - 03:48 PM.


#10 Indiana

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 10:17 PM

That stock boost gauge isn't a real pressure reading, its a guess from the MAF and Tach signal but a stock setup won't go to 14.  You just found common problem #5 of 50 I'd guess real boost more like 20+.  Stock separator system sucks or rather doesn't suck enough it doesn't mean there is anything wrong with your motor.  The correct response to your issue would have been something like what is done to your car exactly and how and when did this happen not suggest you start spending money on something that likely will not solve your problem.

#11 Portal_1

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Posted 13 January 2019 - 06:57 PM

View PostIndiana, on 04 January 2019 - 10:17 PM, said:

That stock boost gauge isn't a real pressure reading, its a guess from the MAF and Tach signal but a stock setup won't go to 14.  You just found common problem #5 of 50 I'd guess real boost more like 20+.  Stock separator system sucks or rather doesn't suck enough it doesn't mean there is anything wrong with your motor.  The correct response to your issue would have been something like what is done to your car exactly and how and when did this happen not suggest you start spending money on something that likely will not solve your problem.

I just recently purchased it. As far as I can tell, everything is stock. Vaccum lines need replaced.

Replaced the pcv valve, which helped significantly with the sputtering, oil burning.

Turbo does smoke after being driven (regardless of how it's driven)

It smells like coolant when it's on, but I don't see anything in the oil, and it's not milky.

Pulled the oil cap, don't see any bubbles, or 'white' in the oil.

I'll find new guages for the car as soon as finances allow.

Any suggestions on vaccum line? My local orielys has 4 mm, or one size lower then 3.2mm

Other then this, is there a better place to order the lines?

Thank you all for all the help


#12 croquest87

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Posted 13 January 2019 - 07:23 PM

Ebay silicone lines  they are very affordable.

As far as leaks go  l would replace all coolant related hoses.
Upper lower radiator hose
Couple of heater hoses in the back
Dont forget the short hose that goes from water pump to the metal tube(they bubble up) that goes around block to the heater hose area. This also supplies throttle body w coolant and also there is a hose for that(can't remember metric size but it's around 3/8)
One coolant leak that l noticed on all 3 of my cars and had to deal with  was that freeze plug right under the exhaust manifold on the block (heat kills it) l would check it just to make sure.

Edited by croquest87, 13 January 2019 - 07:29 PM.


#13 Portal_1

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Posted 13 January 2019 - 08:26 PM

View Postcroquest87, on 13 January 2019 - 07:23 PM, said:

Ebay silicone lines  they are very affordable.

As far as leaks go  l would replace all coolant related hoses.
Upper lower radiator hose
Couple of heater hoses in the back
Dont forget the short hose that goes from water pump to the metal tube(they bubble up) that goes around block to the heater hose area. This also supplies throttle body w coolant and also there is a hose for that(can't remember metric size but it's around 3/8)
One coolant leak that l noticed on all 3 of my cars and had to deal with  was that freeze plug right under the exhaust manifold on the block (heat kills it) l would check it just to make sure.


So I'll need new vaccum lines, coolant hoses, and a freeze plugs?

I've never had to deal with freeze plugs before, any advice?

#14 croquest87

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Posted 13 January 2019 - 08:47 PM

Hoses yes.    Freeze plugs just inspect for leaks they should be good but good to keep on eye on one under the exhaust manifold like l stated above (l wouldn't be replacing them if they dont leak that's to much work) they dont fail often.
Pretty much anything rubber should be looked into.

Onother thing that l think is a good idea is to put a new valve cover gasket set (gasket set comes w couple of pcs) not just a gasket.

Perhaps  distributor oil seal.

Just recommend all this if unknown condition/leaks  


Edited by croquest87, 13 January 2019 - 09:05 PM.


#15 Portal_1

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Posted 14 January 2019 - 12:12 AM

View Postcroquest87, on 13 January 2019 - 08:47 PM, said:

Hoses yes.    Freeze plugs just inspect for leaks they should be good but good to keep on eye on one under the exhaust manifold like l stated above (l wouldn't be replacing them if they dont leak that's to much work) they dont fail often.
Pretty much anything rubber should be looked into.

Onother thing that l think is a good idea is to put a new valve cover gasket set (gasket set comes w couple of pcs) not just a gasket.

Perhaps  distributor oil seal.

Just recommend all this if unknown condition/leaks  


Thank you for your constant help!

I'll start replacing rubber and look into the gaskets and check the plugs.

Suggestions on where I can find calipers? My rears are not only sealess, but rusted beyond where I would like to reuse them. I've seen some online, but I don't know if they will be decent.

#16 importwarrior

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Posted 14 January 2019 - 05:02 AM

Rock auto has them.

just know that if you don't see calipers for a conquest look under Mitsubishi Starion.

They don't list all parts under both Chrysler and Mitsubishi. you have to check both and possibly different years.

example I need rear CALIPERS FOR A 89 CONQUEST. NOTHING WAS LISTED SO I HAD TO LOOK UP A 88 MITSUBISHI STARION TO SEE THAT ROCK AUTO HAD  calipers for our cars....

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#17 freebird

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Posted 30 January 2019 - 06:31 PM

Any info on your compression test?
I’ve owned 33 of these cars... one did this exact same thing.
It was bad piston rings. Just saying from what I have been through.
I have been wrong before though.

Posted ImagePosted Image

#18 croquest87

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Posted 30 January 2019 - 07:07 PM

View PostPortal_1, on 14 January 2019 - 12:12 AM, said:




Thank you for your constant help!

I'll start replacing rubber and look into the gaskets and check the plugs.

Suggestions on where I can find calipers? My rears are not only sealess, but rusted beyond where I would like to reuse them. I've seen some online, but I don't know if they will be decent.
Not saying dont buy new calipers  but l never did for any of my cars. I just take them apart clean them up inspect and grease everything w new seal/dust cover and new bleeder screw. If it dont leak after and locks and releases the rotor you are good to go. Most times even the seal still looks new and all just needs cleaned and greased.Also while at it l like to replace all the brake fluid clean and fresh before l bolt brake lines to the calipers so it's all clean for the next 30 years lol.

Edited by croquest87, 30 January 2019 - 07:15 PM.






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