Dangerous_Dr._Dave

Kojack with a Kodak is a cop with a radar gun... What this has to do with a Conquest is beyond me as well. Someone save this car!

I stuck mine through the hood gasket in front of me so I could see the FP while driving. Once you get it set up you shouldn't need to watch the FP.

I use mine when I'm tweeking my MSD 2222 (Bosch with added Adjusting Nut/Boost Nipple) boost compensating FPR. I'm not sure the 2222 is such a good FPR, but it's all I use since I gutted and sealed my leaky Stock FPR. Maybe I'll break down and get a real aftermarket RRFPR but they are all so expensive and UGLY! I hate flashy looking devices. I prefer the functional look. BTW I upgraded my Fuel Guage Hose to Fuel Injection 0-100 psi Hose. So I'm up to about $12 now.

Some teflon pipe thread tape may fix that leak. I have had mine installed for quite some time with no leaks. Disclaimer: I do not indorse or recommend the continuous use or permanent installation of this guage. The inpropper use of this guage can be hazardous. Do not use if a leak is evident. Fuel leaks can result in Death or permanant injury. Do not use while smoking or near open flames or ignition sources. Use only at your own risk and only under direct adult supervision. Keep a fire extinguisher rated for automotive use at hand. Wear safety goggles. In fact, don't use this guage at all, it's just to dangerous.

The Info on the guage from Ace Hardware is: Campbell PG1T 0-100psi, 1/4" NPT, 2" Dia., Metal Case UPC: 0 88409 72030 9 Price: $4.49 You should find one in the plumbing section near the submersible pumps and pressure switches. They also have: Brady Pressure Guage 0-100psi, 1/4" NPT, 2" Dia., Plastic Case UPC: 0 39172 00030 3 Price: $5.99 I chose the Campbell for the metal case and the lower price.

I will check Ace out tomorrow for the brand, part number, ect.

I got my pressure guage at Ace Hardware.

There are lots of places you could be having leakdown. By or through the injectors: new seals and a trip to RC Engineering for cleaning should stop this leak, By or through your FPR: new FPR, Back through your pump: new pump, leak in your fuel line between pump and TB: replace or tighten leaky fittings/seals. If you are taking 2 hrs to leak down, I wouldn't worry about it. Instant leak down is another matter. The first thing to do is find out where it's leaking down. Most common is leaky injector(s).

Ok... Since this is my thread, I want to put to everyone who is watching this thread a challenge: Find a source for a fitting that actually fits the back of the TB to replace the nylon jury rigged idea I came up with. Near as I can figure, its some kind of metric tapered pipe thread. Somebody out there somewhere knows someone who knows what this fitting is and where we can get adaptors so that we can plumb in all kinds of cool stuff! Now go forth and search!

My stock FPR started to leak out of the nipple on the bottom of the can so I carefully ground down the edge between the two halves of the can until it came apart, gutted it, soldered it back together and pluged the nipple. I now use nothing but the MSD 2222. It works fine and I can bump up the pressure for racing or back it back down to stock for day to day use.

Sounds like time for an easy-out. Sorry about that. On the bright side, you can now drill and tap the plug for a regular fitting and plumb in a valve and all sorts of cool stuff!

I've taken out at least three of those plugs with the 6mm hex drive. I may have had to tap the 6mm allen wrench with a hammer to get things started, but just be carefull to use the right size allen wrench and it should come out.

What I did was leave my hood on the safety latch. That was good enough for a test drive!

Any ol' hardware store should have them like home depot or Ace...

DIS = Distributorless Ignition System