Jump to content



Thermostat Design


  • Please log in to reply
11 replies to this topic

#1 Conrion

Conrion

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 64 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Virginia
  • Model:Starion

Posted 13 July 2016 - 07:09 PM

So I bought almost every thermostat on rock auto... and none seem to work very well. Some don't even fit!

I can share details when I get home, but my real question is about the basic design. Is there a thermostat out there that will block the bypass port to improve cooling?

Most thermostat systems (I thought) circulate through the bypass when cold, and as it warms up the Tstat not only opens to allow flow to radiator, but also lowers a blockoff plate to the bypass port to force flow into radiator. One of the many Tstats I bought even had a bypass plate... but it didn't fit.

I ran without a thermostat previously and the car did OK... had leaky rad and many issues. Now new rad and good pressure and I'm not happy. 160 deg high flow left me boiling after "cool down" and shut off. 180 deg high flow is working better, but runs too high for my liking (top 2/3 of hash marks) so i'll be pulling it before running again.

I'm pretty confident that a tstat that blocks bypass would fix this entirely. Anyone have any insight here?

Edited by Conrion, 13 July 2016 - 07:11 PM.






#2 StarquestRescue

StarquestRescue

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,628 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Lancaster PA
  • Interests:Mits owner from 1980
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 13 July 2016 - 07:21 PM

Have you tried a new water pump?
2012 fall set up 20g 06  in the stock turbine houseing. 2g mas, Neo afc, Versafueler, 1050 / 2000 injectors on E85.  379hp 395 tq TBI Power

2012 spring set up. 18g06 in the stock turbine houseing.  2g mas, Neo afc, Versafueler, 1050 / 2000 injectors on E85.  Innovated data logging. 358 hp 393 tq. 12.71 @ 112
2011 set up. 18g05h,  2g mas, Neo afc, Versafueler, 1050 / 2000 injectors on E85.  Innovated data logging. 307 hp 360 tq  12.78 @ 112
2010 set up. 18g05h,  2G mas, Lsp 850 / 1400 injectors. Tuned with re flashed afc Neo version 1.104 and Innovated data logging.  297 hp 403 tq.


401 / 427 TBI   Dyno link-----------TBI Power http://www.sqperform....php?topic=33.0-----------Rear Gear link----------2010 Dyno link-------Feedback link

#3 M Code

M Code

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 352 posts

Posted 13 July 2016 - 09:03 PM

Are U aware the thermostadt must be clocked into a certain position, or it can restrict the coolant flow...

Just my $0.02...  ;)

#4 TexasQuest

TexasQuest

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 8,673 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sunnyvale, Texas
  • Interests:TSi's & VR4's
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 13 July 2016 - 09:06 PM

^This. You may also have air pockets in it.
88 Fiji Blue -Tsi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, Hallman boost controller
Posted Image

View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

#5 vbrad511

vbrad511

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 8,314 posts
  • Location:springfield, illinois
  • Interests:Keep the turbo spooled!

Posted 13 July 2016 - 09:07 PM

Is your "new" radiator new, or just a different 30 year old radiator? Are ALL of your fans working correctly? Have you had the water pump off and seen the impeller on it? In all reality, with a decently working system a 180 stat should be cool enough to cool the motor. Some say a 160 won't keep coolant in the motor long enough to absorb the heat before it gets transfered out.

#6 ucw458

ucw458

    This will mean the extinction of all life forms on this planet.

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,416 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Colorado
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 13 July 2016 - 09:42 PM

Dash gauge doesn't read temp accurately.  3/4 on your gauge could be any temp.  Unless you measure the temp you wont know.  

195 stat is OEM and works fine.  Having the engine too cold promotes engine wear and running rich all the time because the ECU thinks the engine isn't warmed up.  Your problem sounds like a clogged radiator, bad water pump or a bad fan.
My 87
Posted Image

#7 Conrion

Conrion

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 64 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Virginia
  • Model:Starion

Posted 13 July 2016 - 11:33 PM

Fans work and rad is brand new. Could be the pump or gauge, but they did not change from before... and it boiled on shutdown, so I agree with the gauge that it was hot... I realize it may not be accurate, but it tells me enough.

I have the stat oriented so the flanges are not in the way. Don't know what "proper" alignment is. I'll take pics.

I've heard the thing about coolant not staying long enough, etc... just not true. More flow = more cool. Cools fine w/ no stat.

I guess i'll run with no stat again to be sure that the system works otherwise.

No comments on bypass?



#8 ucw458

ucw458

    This will mean the extinction of all life forms on this planet.

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,416 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Colorado
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 14 July 2016 - 04:40 AM

Do a compression test.
My 87
Posted Image

#9 importwarrior

importwarrior

    6 Quests and Counting......

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,071 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Manassas VA
  • Interests:Boost = 2KWIK4U
    Starquests
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 14 July 2016 - 05:01 AM

go to :

www.starquestgarage.com
service manuals
i chose 1988
Cooling section 7
page 7-12

http://www.starquest...7_-_cooling.pdf

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP

Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!

Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!




#10 TexasQuest

TexasQuest

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 8,673 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sunnyvale, Texas
  • Interests:TSi's & VR4's
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 14 July 2016 - 07:57 PM

Not a good idea to run without a t-stat in a car with a coolant temp sensor for a prolonged period of time. That's just putting a band aid over a problem.
88 Fiji Blue -Tsi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, Hallman boost controller
Posted Image

View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

#11 Conrion

Conrion

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 64 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Virginia
  • Model:Starion

Posted 15 July 2016 - 02:47 PM

I have the part number for the factor stat. Real question here.... Is it any different?

Good point, Texas. Thanks.

#12 TexasQuest

TexasQuest

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 8,673 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sunnyvale, Texas
  • Interests:TSi's & VR4's
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 15 July 2016 - 10:02 PM

Shouldn't be much different than an aftermarket t-stat. I've been running a 180 t-stat in my car for years fine with no problem. Make sure you get one with the bleeder tab thing on it, and that it's installed correctly like mentioned above.
88 Fiji Blue -Tsi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, Hallman boost controller
Posted Image

View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users