flatty86 Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Does anyone know the part number for this wire....i heard the 86 were diffrent...and my car didnt come with one. thanks in advance. http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o66/kaw228/2012-10-23_14-22-45_28.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatty86 Posted October 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 i really hope someone can help...can i make my own? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZacMan Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Nah, no reason it would be different to the other models, If it was, it would just be in the amperage rating. I'd say you'd be fine with a widebody one. Any auto-sparky should be able to make you one up pretty cheap? I bought the connecters myself, and some fusible link with and made up the one on my car. Just had a quick look through my FSM, and i couldnt find a current rating, but I'd say around 60A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatty86 Posted October 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 can u take a pic of urs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZacMan Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 (edited) Sorry this is such a terrible picture:http://i750.photobucket.com/albums/xx141/ProZac83/Starion%20Project/P1280544.jpgit's from ages ago when I was making up the new fusible link and battery cables. You can see the original link though. I went to any auto-sparky suppy store and bought a 'fusible link connector', which came with the male and female ends, and the terminals to crimp onto the end. I then bought some of this:http://www.narva.co..../fuse-link-wireSpecifically the red stuff, as fusible link wire is colour coded. Apparently it's only good for 20 amps continuous... Anyway, it hasent blown. Crimped it all together, put the plastic connectors on, and it's been all good ever since. Hopefully that helps? Edited October 24, 2012 by ZacMan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted October 27, 2012 Report Share Posted October 27, 2012 That charge wire is the metric equivalent of 10Ga. Fuse link wires should be 2 sizes smaller, so you can make your own with a 14 Gauge fuse link wire.Your picture shows a rusted connection too. I would get a new battery terminal, and use and eye wire crimp connector and go straight to the bolt with it. Those spades are old and corroded on the female inside of it. The corrosion makes the wire (and connection) heat up to cause more corrosion until it melts. That usually starts right at the corroded termination and runs down the wire, and of course melts the fuse link. So the fuse link was only needed due to the bad connection on the link itself. Pitiful, but that is the most common cause of charge wire fuse links melting, and not something down stream causing a short like the link is designed to prevent. Also, NEVER just crimp a wire, anywhere, especially power (+12VDC) or ground wires. Crimp it and then solder the crimp connection. That is the best to seal out further corrosion, and decrease current drop at the connection. I know the factory made a large crimp for the ground connection eye terminal to the frame under the battery, but remember, all cars are manufactured, and such decisions are to save money. It is also a large professional copper crimp hidden out of normal dirt, water. However, it too would benefit from being soldered just the same. I have seen one of those that got doused with a battery that exploded and sent acid into the connection. soldering it would have prevented the acid from getting down inside. Anyway, this approach to all wire terminations will prevent future problems. We like to take the whole fuse link box and cut it out. Replacing it with soldered fuse links that don't use spade connections which will last much longer and be more reliable and never melt due to a corroded spade connection. The only good way to clean the fuse link box is to remove it and bead blast it, which tends to remove the outer coating, so we try to just cut the box out and solder new links in. Another solution is to find a new link box to replace the old with. There are many good link boxes in Mighty Max pick ups in the salvage yards. I see them all the time where the connections look brand new. The link wires may be different gauge on one wire, but you can put a new link there (available from Dad I think) of the correct size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatty86 Posted October 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 Thanks for the info guys!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatty86 Posted December 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2012 Tim, We don't have many junk yards here with conquest..... Do you think nextime that you see a farily clean box u can pick one up for me?? Also are all the part numbers the same... I was thinking about buying one new but can only find the part number for the 87-89 model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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