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Head Gasket Fun


Fuze
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So, I stopped procrastinating and did the head gasket this weekend, probably about my 10th in 16 years. I guess I've got a few little things I always do that might be of help to somebody else. If so, cool. A lot of us have done these, but not everybody.

 

 

>Get the head resurfaced if you have the time/money. That said, I've done it probably twice..not a requirement usually if the head is in good shape... but a best practice.

 

>Use painter tape to label the sensor connections or whatever connections you can't remember or are confusing. (Pri inj, sec inj, top temp sensr, TPS,etc) Once you do that, pulling it apart will be less mentally stressful, although it's not really too big of a deal, only about 7 connections. After a few times you may not need the tape, LOL.

 

>Leave the mainfolds on. Don't bust up your knuckles trying to get under the manifolds. Once the sensors, coolant lines, vac lines and throttle cable are loose, unbolt the downpipe and unbolt the ring clamp around the turbo cartridge. Tap the conpressor with a rubber mallet and it will pop off, leaving all the lines connected. There, saved you a big mess. Now the manifolds are your handles to pull the head.

 

>Pull the valve cover and mark the distributor position with a marker across the gear and shaft. No need to get TDC, just make sure the lines line up when you put the dist back in.

 

>When you pop the head off, have some cardboard ready to place it on. With the manifolds on it, the head surface won't touch the ground though.

 

>Look at everything and make sure there aren't any cracks or damage you can see. Do a little detective work and see if you can find out where the gasket failed... and why.

 

>Look for two round pegs, one at the front, one at the rear corner. These locate the head and prevent you from blowing a gasket in 5 minutes. If you don't see one, check if it got pushed into the head.

 

>Get your sctoch brite and clean up the block surface and head. Go easy on the head, don't use something that will gouge or cut the metal at all. Keep crap out of the cylinders.

 

>Avoid AJUSA metal gaskets. I know I know, but they are easy to blow if you ever get hot. Not from the cylinders, but around the oil/coolant passages. Go for the high quality FelPro composite gasket, it's less likely to fail that way. Hey, this is just my observation!

Edited by Fuze
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from what dad has said, the leading cause to head gasket failure is that our blocks (BLOCK) are not decked from the manufacturer, decking the block once will solve 80% of your headaches.

 

Agreed. I have had that done on engine builds when the motor is out, but without pulling the block.... it's a no-go.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I HAVE TO COMPLETELY AGREE!!!

from what dad has said, the leading cause to head gasket failure is that our blocks (BLOCK) are not decked from the manufacturer, decking the block once will solve 80% of your headaches.

 

I just finished doing a ton of work on top of a brand new head, head gasket, trilogy injectors, 16g turbo... And it fired up perfectly after 2 cranks but the fool is leaking coolant into the cylinders and blowing white smoke/steam. Everything else is good. No coolant in the oil yet and good oil pressure. It has to be the block was warped or not decked. I used Fel-pro everything A-B and it has already failed upon start up. I am about $1500 (including the price of the car) into this thing and it now at least moves on it own power.... Sort of

 

You could steam some veggies with my tail pipe. Might get sick and die though.... :unsure:

 

Of the many head gaskets I have accomplished... This one failed..... SOB!

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Leaking that ezly something has to be rather wrong you sure the turbo was good? The turbo could leak coolent as well. I hope its not your block. What a pain that would be. Edited by TainterRacing
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I HAVE TO COMPLETELY AGREE!!!

 

 

I just finished doing a ton of work on top of a brand new head, head gasket, trilogy injectors, 16g turbo... And it fired up perfectly after 2 cranks but the fool is leaking coolant into the cylinders and blowing white smoke/steam. Everything else is good. No coolant in the oil yet and good oil pressure. It has to be the block was warped or not decked. I used Fel-pro everything A-B and it has already failed upon start up. I am about $1500 (including the price of the car) into this thing and it now at least moves on it own power.... Sort of

 

You could steam some veggies with my tail pipe. Might get sick and die though.... :unsure:

 

Of the many head gaskets I have accomplished... This one failed..... SOB!

 

 

is it losing coolant? how long have you let it run?

don't tear it apart just yet if your coolant level isn't going down... it could be from the moisture remaining in the exhaust from the problem you solved.

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from what dad has said, the leading cause to head gasket failure is that our blocks (BLOCK) are not decked from the manufacturer, decking the block once will solve 80% of your headaches.

 

 

It's not that they weren't decked. You couldn't seal the rough casting so of course they were decked at the factory.

 

The problem is the block deforms over time. The cylinders get pushed down. Then there is a slight valley in the center of the deck surface. That leads to HG failures from not being able to seal properly. Having the block decked fixes the problem. I haven't heard of a block deforming again after being decked but I suppose it's possible. Might take years though so I wouldn't worry about it.

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  • 1 month later...

GET a good norton india stone. not one of those cheap china stones they wont work .... they are like sand stone and will break down before you will make it flat!!!!!!!!!!! pull the head location rings ...Oil the stone with 30w oil and start stoning the head flat. you will see that around all the threaded holes the block has pulled up ....keep stoning block un till flat 1 2 hours....... keep india stone oiled up at all times you wiil be able to see high spots..keep doing it untill they are flush with the center of the block...wash clean with brake cleaner ..put on new gasket (norton is a brand of stone ,india is the type of stone may be $20.00 bucks look for stone in Mcmaster carr machinist catlog)

)

 

 

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  • 8 months later...

Ok so hello to every one my problem is I'm not sure were to start. When I start my 87 she smokes BAD and stinks like burned oil When I open the hood small amounts of oil are coming out of the down Pipe bolts manifold bolts it sputters and misses but kinda drives just sounds like s***. When I started working on it I found that one small springs on cylinder 3 was broken and laying next to the port so just like the upgraded head I the filled the hole with high heat jb weld but apparently that was not the problem it still sputters and spits even has oil coming out the exhaust I'm not sure what to do any advice would be greatfully apreciated

Thanks. Sean.

Edited by seans87Quest
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Good tips. I just helped my friend do a d-50 head gasket. Another good tip is using this on the head gasket. Especialy if you are just gonna clean up the block and head and leave the manifolds on and reassemble.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/275/p/per_12_cop_spr_a_gas_hi_tem_sea_12oz.jpg

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