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Stealth R/T

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Stealth R/T last won the day on October 26 2015

Stealth R/T had the most liked content!

About Stealth R/T

  • Birthday 02/21/1997

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    zlmbrt1313@gmail.com

Profile Information

  • Interests
    Classic cars
  • Location
    Ofallon
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    63366
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    TSI
  • Model Year
    1988
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    California Red
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. Im sorry, and am not trying to offend anyone, but these cars are the biggest pieces of crap. I honestly wish I would've kept my stealth because this car is a hunk a junk. The electrical systems are completely faulty, one vacuum leak and the car goes to hell, cant even find the darn brake componets for the cars, had to order the freakin pads an wait for them because they are an odd size. Nothing works correctly, the trannies are very rough and the cooling systems are bipolar. They have terrible power steering, miserable braking. The only thing this car is good for is doing donuts in a gravel culdesac because the rear diffs are locked in posi!! They accelerate like a diesel tracter, and have terrible understeer. These cars were probably really good when they were new or if they have been taken care of but stay away from ANY that show signs of abuse because you will pay through the mouth to find parts and have them replaced. If anybody is interested in buying a 1988 Conquest Tsi, with the shp rims and the lsd rear end please feel free to call me at 6363850241. the car is in decent shape, runs good (hasn't left me stranded yet) and drives well. Im just done with this nightmare of a car. I bet the Japanese are laughing at me now for trading for it. Thanks, zach
  2. After careful consideration I've decided that if my original engine does eventually give out, I will be doing a cammed v8 swap. I don't have the money nor the skills to rebuild a g54b motor, and I really don't want the finicky orig motor. I'll more than likely do a Chevy 350, 5.3, or a dodge 340,360,or 383 with an automatic transmission. I have to have a reliable, easy to work on motor in my car as it is my daily. I won't do anything to the original motor until it goes out so we'lol see what she can do. Thank you for all of your input and if anybody has any ideas as to a more and tranny plus a rear end don't hesatate to tell me. Thank you, zach
  3. Thanks man, ill keep you updated on progress. Im hoping it isnt main bearings, but they were replace by recall in 2001 so i dont think its them. Thanks, zach
  4. Alright I'll do that. Any idea as to which brand oil sending unit to buy and how much they cost???
  5. The problem is I don't have a garage, nor a lot of the tools needed to do a lot of that work. I can do a lot of minor things, but I can't do a lot, and it has to be drivin daily, maybe two days outta the week to work on and then back on the road. My intention is to drive it until it dies then pay my buddy to do a v8 and tranny plus rear end swap and go from there with rest of car
  6. What size is that nut, and where did he get it. I would really appreciate it. Won't the quarters just fall into the precat??
  7. Thanks, i appreciate the info on the oil sender. Is it hard to replace it especially if its leaking like you say?
  8. Im completely fine with keeping the original motor, but what is the cpst to rebuild the majority of it? Like new pistons, oil pump, seals, everything really. Also, the only thing keeping me back is the little bit of rust on the car. The "mud flap" style things have rust on the inside along with rust on the rockers and on the body lines. How much is it to have them replaced? I love the car, just dont want to spend more than 5k on it
  9. I've been told that 20w-50 is fine, just that the 15w-40 will tear the motor up. Where is the oil sender unit located and if the unit is bad, why when I start my car up does the oil pressure stay at half then drop to 0 when it gets warmer??
  10. Idk, it's not my top priority right now, as the car is in the shop and I'm debating on whether or not to pull the motor and replace it with a built 318 or 383 Chrysler motor. Either that or rebuild the orig motor, but whatever is cheaper and more reliable in the long run. I plan to just run the orig motor till it dies and then going from there but it needs a decent amount of minor stuff done to it which mostly involves cleaning and replacing lines, and such. As of now I have to replace the oil cooler lines, flush the radiator for winter, replace valve cover bolts because some are missing, replace some vacuum lines, flush inter cooler and lines, clean turbo out, fix a leaky fuel line, refill the rear diff and replace the seal. Tranny looks like it's seeping, rear of motor looks like it's seeping, fix the secondary air pipe, brakes aren't working right, cv boots are all torn, minor rust issues in the rockers and lower fender and door flare. The interior is a disaster and I have to have music. The motor has had all major work done to it already, but it's all the freakin little stuff that's gonna kill me and I don't know if the cars worth it. Anybodies opinion is welcome on what i should do here lol. Thanks, zach
  11. Can't I just "unplug" the line running to the boost gauge and run it to a gauge cluster style setup? I plan to mount an oil pressure gauge and a boost gauge on the hood
  12. Where can I get a new secondary intake pipe as mine has rusted off the back of ether precat. I no longer have the second cat, as it was deleted and to pass inspection I need the precat I guess. Any info on what I can replace that with or just gut the precat to keep it from clogging. Also can seafoam be run through the turbo to clean it out or is that s bad idea
  13. On the topic of fixing a conquest, can anybody give me the correct torque specifications for the valve cover bolts and where I can get a new set of them along with a gasket?? Thanks, zach
  14. Haha, yea it's on the list. I'm going to do that thing suggested above and test the pressure from the block and see if it is just a bad oil sender
  15. Alright, I'll have to do that. Thank you for the infor, and how hard is it to replace the stock boost gauge??
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