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383chevelle

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383chevelle last won the day on April 14 2013

383chevelle had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lubbock Tx
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    79416
  • Model
    Other
  • Type
    Other
  • Model Year
    Other
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. A buddy of mine bought a SQ that had the turbo capped off and a single barrel carb on it. When they say it will be a dog they are being generous. I drove my SQ there then test drove the car and it was SLOW and still over heated. Honestly it really was terrible, you have to remeber that these motors are around 7-7.52:1 compression from the factory. That combined with no turbo makes zero power. There is no reason that a car that has some elboy grease in it should be able to run the race. When we were getting our budget put together for the BMW we figured we would have around 3000 in the car by the time it is ready to race. You have to remember the any saftey equipment is not included in the 500 dollar budget. This means cage( there is a specification for this and it is not a cheap cage), brakes, seat, safety harness, etc. That 500 dollar budget is more of a suggestion then a rule from what I have seen.
  2. Niko, I am in, I ahve been trying to get a team together for several years now. I had a 1979 BMW 320i for about 5 yeras that was going to be my lemons car untill the city of lubbock taged it and I had to sell it. I will be moving to Richmond/Rosenburg in a few months. I think I even have a car we can use that is fully prepped. It has competed before but had a small crash and bent the tierod on the drivers side and maybe a control arm. The guy wont sell it for some reason but wants someone to race it. He has told me several times that I can use it. Would that be something you might be interested in. Also I know at least one other person that will extremely interested. He was one of the guys that was goiong to build the BMW with me.
  3. Ok so no short cuts. I will try again putting the engine on TDC #1 then pull the sprocket. I am assuming this is what caused my problems last time sicne I just loosened the bolts and tried to remove it without taking the cam sproket off. I will give it another go this weekend. Thank you for the help and the advice on the masking tape. Are the cam tower bolts one time use or can they be reused?
  4. I have had one cnced but the bolt pattern was slightly off. I think it will still bolt up but may need to have a whole or two elongated. I can post a picture and the solidworks file if anyone is interested. It has been awhile since I have messed with it since I purchased another intake that fits. I will try to find the files and post them. A few pictures are posted at the bottom of this thread. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=137611&hl=383chevelle
  5. My car starting making the familiar valve noise that these engines make when an adjuster loses pressure. Pulled the valve cover to find that the number one cylinder exhuast rocker has about an 1/8 of play in it at the valve when on the base circle of the cam. So my question is what is the easiest way to replace these things. I obviously dont have the little specialty holders called for in the manual to keep them all from falling out when you remove the rocker assembly. I loosened all the bolts holding the cam towers and rocker rods but could not get the timing sprocket side to come off the head. Is there a special trick to it or do I need to just pull harder? I did not have the engine at TDC on number 1 as I figured that was just for removing the and reinstalling the cam. Any help is greatly appriciated!
  6. Niko I have been to the races the last couple of years and they are awesome. Also been to the f1 race a couple years in a row. Always a good time and the bikes down the front straight sound AWESOME. I really liked watching the support races to the gp3 race is awesome everyone on very similar bikes duking it out. I will let you know if we make it this year. Maybe we can meet up.
  7. Awesome to deal with. Took the time to make sure that I even needed the part before I sent him money. On top of that he took the thing apart and regreased it, checked it over and gave it a new coat of paint all without asking for more money. Good price, good part, fast shipping and great communication. Would do business with again.
  8. Just want to thank vbrad for the help and taking the time to ensure that I needed the motor. Thanks all who offered the parts. Car is back on the road because of the people on this site!
  9. Well that is good to know I wonder why they did that. The motor is the only think that I am replacing are they not interchangeable?
  10. Sorry guys been really busy the last couple of days.
  11. do you know if the windshield wiper motor works and if so how much shipped to 79416?
  12. Does any one have a good wiper motor that they would be willing to part with? I don't mind one that I need to open and regrease just need one that is known to be good.
  13. That is a resonable pedal force it might even be a bit light. We tested about 50 poeple when sizing the brakes on the fsae car and 150 to 175 was what we decided on for the max pedal force. This test included 5'3", 110lbs female subjects, so it should be no problem at that level. Also be carefull just picking the stock size MC because you will have two master cylinders with the pedal box only half the brakes will be operated by one where the stocker runs all four brakes. I guess it depends on what calipers you are using too.
  14. To answer the four piston question. If the pistons are active, i.e. solid mounted caliper with 4 moving pistons, then you need to account for the area of all four. If it is a sliding caliper with four pistons then you only have two active pistons that the fluid acts on and the others are just locked in place. So as an example we can set up a simple brake system with one true four piston caliper, one MC and a pedal ratio of 1:1. If we fix the pedal force at 50lbs and say that the pistons need to move a 1/16" to clamp the rotors we can do some math and find out line pressure, clamping force, and pedal travel. First lets use a 1" diameter bore. Line pressure will be=force on pedal/diameter of MC bore=50lbs/.785in^2=63.69psi Clamping force exerted by the caliper=line pressure*total piston area for caliper=63.69psi*9.61625in^2=612.51 lbs Volume of fluid needed to move a piston 1/16" to clamp the rotor= Area of single rotor*distance piston needs to travel=2.404*.0625=.15025 in^3 Since we have 4 pistons multiply by 4 and get total volume of .60101 in^3 Pedal travel = total volume of fluid needed/ diameter of the MC= .60101in^3/.785 in^2 = .762 in So for a 1/16" piston movement the pedal will move .762in and will generate 612.5lbs of clamping force at the rotor. Now what are the numbers if we use a 1/2" bore MC. Line pressure=254.777psi Clamping force= 2450 lbs pedal travel= 3.0625 in so with a .5" bore MC it takes a pedal movement of 3.0625in to clamp the rotor and will generate 2450 lbs of clamping force at the rotor. Well hopefully someone will find this helpfull. If you want to expand this for your car just account for the additional calipers in the piston area, and the extra leverage provided by the pedal ratio.
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