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funbunion

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About funbunion

  • Birthday 05/10/1982

Profile Information

  • Interests
    My wife
  • Location
    Knoxville TN
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Model
    Starion
  • Type
    ESI-R
  • Model Year
    1987
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Rio/Mexican Red
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. EDIT-price changed to $2,000, read in the issues section Let me begin by saying I don’t want to sell this car. I have had it for a wonderful 8 years, put 90 thousand miles on since I bought it, and have driven across Alabama, Tennessee, Kentucky, Florida(including all of the keys), Georgia, North and South Carolina, and enjoyed every mile of it. I love this car. I have taken care of it like a child. I have never gone over 2,000 miles on an oil change except when on a long trip, and even then I’ve changed the oil in several parking lots as to not exceed 3,000 miles on any oil change. I have had a job since I was 10 years old, and this is the first time I’ve ever lost a job in 17 years of working. I had planned to leave this car to my firstborn like every cliché in the book. I am just selling because I really need the money. If you have questions, email me chrisbeckendorf@gmail.com. If you need to call me my cell is 423-227-5989. I have a bunch of pics, but Craigslist only allows 4 at a time. If you want any others, email me and I will send the others. I have taken care to the utmost astringency. I am an X aircraft mechanic, and treated this car with the same mechanical care I would put in any aircraft. I have build this car for mountain racing, not the drag strip. It runs great and strong. The exterior is in good shape. A few small dents, but the interior is almost perfect except for the driver's seat. The driver's seat has a tear that could be sown quite easily. The air dam was the old three section style, and has been through the ringer. It has a good deal of aircraft resin on the back to reinforce the structure, and I removed 2 inches from the lower overhang to keep it from scraping when going out of driveways and such. Last year, I rebuild the bottom end of the engine in my garage. I had the cylinders honed, replaced one out of round piston, and all of the rings. I replaced the steering box with a low mileage salvage unit. I bought a brand new non-jet valve head, had new valves installed, and the head was ported and polished on both intake and exhaust sides. It has a new O2 sensor. I bought a brand new exhaust manifold, and had it ported as well. I had the intake manifold ported and polished. I also with a die grinder, removed the intake separator vein, and polished the throttle body. It has a used 16g turbo that I bought on eBay, and I have not had it on while under heavy boost since the car has been sitting. It runs stock boost just fine. I am just a little weary of a turbo of this nature because it has not been race tested. I installed Tokico performance shocks and Ground Control adjustable coil over springs. The springs are fully lowered now, but if you felt froggy, you can raise this car up 4 inches to do rally jumps. I installed a new clutch kit, and I have an extra brand new clutch plate that will come with the car, though the clutch in it is perfect. I have installed new clutch master, and slave cylinders. I have installed a new brake master cylinder. I have installed a new alternator. I have installed a Turbo XS BOV, but I have a Greddy that will come with it that needs a new diaphragm. It has almost brand new tires. 95% tread left. It has 2 rebuilt CV axles that have less than 50,000 miles on them. I have replaced the balance shaft chain, and all the sprockets that entails. All of the “B” chain guilds were also just replaced. It has pretty new ceramic brake pads(More than 60% left). I installed two brand new aftermarket radiator fans. It came with an HKS turbo timer that intermittently does not work. I cycle the ignition a couple times and it comes on. It comes with a good cd player and an unpowered bass speaker box in the trunk. It consists of two 5X9 speakers that are new, and it sounds nice. It has always had issues with high RPM (above 5,000) in that the power kinds of falls off. I never take it up that high anyway, but depending on your intentions for this car you may want to investigate this. I installed a new Bosch super coil, and it has a newer rotor button and cap. It also has new NGK iridium plugs, and new NGK wires. I just discovered that when I put the timing cover back on the front of the engine, that not replacing the gasket was a bad idea. I thought I could get away with it because it really looked fine, but it is now leaking coolant into the crankcase. As a result, you will have to replace this gasket before driving it for any length of time. It will need to be towed to wherever you are located. It takes about 4-5 hours of labor to replace this gasket, and I will provide one to the buyer. The only other things that don’t work, or need attention on this car are as follows… The A/C has always worked, but the nut that holds on the A/C clutch fell off last fall and I just haven’t put it back on. The A/C system has leaked since I got the car, but I’ve just recharged it myself every spring. The handbrake cable seems to be frozen, but I haven’t investigated it too far as I never use it any way. The cruise control module works perfectly, but the cable is frozen and would need to be replaced if you want cruise control. I just can’t find one new anywhere, but a salvage cable shouldn’t be too hard to come by. The driver’s side seat belt has never moved in its track properly. Sometimes it comes on as I open the door, but I haven’t really cared too much either way. The seat belts all lock properly though in case of a wreck. I have only washed this car two or three times. Every other time it has been cleaned with a “dry wash” system which includes a wax job. The same system I used to use on airplanes. The paint on the roof is fading. The clear coat is deglazing in a couple of small areas. This car has never been wrecked, but a motorcyclist dented the driver’s side rear quarter panel. If you need to know anything else, don't hesitate to ask by email preferably, by phone if you must.
  2. Yeah, my brother had his removed when he had his engine rebuilt, he says he can't tell much difference in response or power. On the flip side, he doesn't really even notice any extra vibration in his. I may do this as a preemptive action to remove another break point down the road.
  3. Thanks a lot folks. I really appreciate the help. DAD, I hate Racetep with a passion, so I started looking for the elimination kit at autozone for 50 bucks. Thanks for all the help and tips, I think I'll just save this project for next summer when I pull the engine.
  4. I have an 87 Starion, and I have the timing assembly off and apart. I have the extra cash to buy the balance shaft eliminator kit from Racetep, but I don't know what this mod entails. Does the shaft have to come out? Should I replace the oil pump since I'm already in there? One of my secondary chain guides broke for the oil pump/balance chain, lodged it's self in the sprocket, and stripped the gear to nubs on the crank. I heard it happen, and killed the engine within two seconds, so I can't imagine any other damage was done to the engine or turbo. Another good plus is that I was in super low rpm when it happened, thank God. There's nothing scarier than hearing a *pop, screeeeeeeam* and losing all oil pressure. Thanks for any help, Chris
  5. I have three sets of rockers I've tried on mine. The roller rockers out of a VR4, which I am told increase the rpm range of the car, this is impossible. I personally found them to be a downgrade in low end power, but it did perk up in the top end. I didn't like the exchange due to the lack of improvement overall. I have some adjustable rockers as well, still hydraulically lifted, but gives you a little more adjustabillity in the inherent idle slop. Overall, I run close to 300 hp with stock rockers, and find these are in my opinion the best all around setup. I don't know about the super high hp engines though.
  6. Thanks, I'll give it a shot. Yeah, it's an 87, and I'm a nerd :rolleye0018:
  7. I see. Sorry, I'm kind of a moron Do you think if I replace the 12a with a 16g it would solve this? Think the turbo is too tired and old?
  8. I wish. I took my boost controller out and I'm running stock 8lbs of boost. I pressurized my entire intake system with pump the other day and found no leaks. Any other ideas?
  9. I have a Dec. of 86 ESI. I rebuilt the engine in my garage last summer and it ran perfect, and I mean perfect. I've done every "free" mod I can, ported and polished intake and exhaust, new injectors+clips (3 years ago), rebuilt throttle body, new air cleaner(K+N), new intake boot from maf to turbo, new vacuum advance, new plugs, wires, rotor button and cap, new bonding wires, new vacuum lines throughout engine compartment. All that said, here's the story... I bought a 16g from ebay a couple years ago before I rebuilt my engine. Due to many series of events, I only put a thousand miles or so on this "new" turbo before I disintegrated my #3 piston during an accidental over boost. I put another thousand miles on the 16g on the engine break in before it burned up(the turbo, not the engine). Long story short, I changed back over to my stock turbo, and now the engine bucks and surges over 4500rpm, but I have plenty of power between bucks. The old turbo always worked perfectly, and was only a few years old when I replaced it. Could it have something to do with the port and polish? Could it be vacuum? Am I a moron? Blind?
  10. funbunion

    Baby

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