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  1. MODS: Can we please get a sticky for these people in the feedback forum? They're killin' us here!?! EDIT: I just re-read what I wrote. I just wanted to clarify, the scammers are "killin' us here!?!". Thanks! -Rob
  2. AZ-Racing is an awesome guy! If you're in need of Chrysler parts and want a good price, PM this guy. I've called on Aaron twice now for help with my MOPAR related issues, and both times I've bought from him, he's come through at a price substantially less than my local Chrysler dealerships. Thanks yet again Aaron! -Rob
  3. ‰

    New Mods .

    Can't guarantee that will please any or everyone.... but if the mods can't agree with eachother, this place is headed for worse. I would hate to see that happen..... I like this place..... :cry: :cry: -Rob
  4. Well as I said.... "There's only so much power to be made with 2 injectors... Pretty straight-forward. ;D -Rob
  5. Yeah, no offense meant to anyone but this thread has been feeling more-and-more as if it were contributed to by the People's Front of Judea... ;) ;) Personally, I'm going MPI whether it be a carbon intake or not. There's only so much power to be made with old TBI technology and two injectors... -Rob
  6. Same here bro... I completely understand your frustration. See ya around. -Rob
  7. Yes, it may sound strange, but here it goes... A feedback on myself... Some time ago, I started searching for a new engine for my '87 TSi. I was fortunate enough to find some serious sellers who were nice enough to give me the time to look at and prod around on their propective engines. I found one person in paticular whos engine caught my attention, I'll call him "Tom". Tom not only offered a fair price for the engine, but was an honest person who I felt that I could trust. This guy even went so far as-to pulling the engine from his parts-car so that I could come back and just "pick it up". I, like so many others have more than just a couple things on my plate, so out of fairness, it was some time before Tom and I got back together on the purchase of the engine, by this time, I had blown my original. I offered my car to Tom for $1000, as the accident took place a good distance from my home. Tom agreed to look at the vehicle and said that he would get back to me. A few days passed and I got an email from Tom, describing the used vehicle that I was selling. My original asking price was $1000 for the car, being it that it was in the condition it was and the brand-new turbo (14g) that was just installed a week prior to the engine blowing. Tom stated that $1000 was a little pricey for his taste before he went out to look at the car, so, needing to unload it as quickly as possible, I dropped the price to $750, with no hassle. He returned to me with an offer of $500, which honestly, I felt was a little shy of what I deserved, but, desperate times, desperate measures. I made plans with Tom to exchange the title for the cash in person, no cash had been secured at this point. I left the next Friday to trek up to NJ, and that's when things went wrong... The new Jeep that I had just bought (used) decided to stop shifting gears... Thankfully, I made it home and started arguing with my dealership over the price for a new trans. As soon as I got to the dealership, I had my secretary (I am self-employed) give Tom a call, to let him know what was going on. As soon as I got off of the phone with her, I was called by another buyer, who not only had $1000 for the car, but was also at my relatives place in NJ, ready to buy that day. I called my secretary once again, to have her call Tom ASAP and let him know what was going on. Instead of getting a call from Tom, I received a scathing, sarcastic email from him about a day later. I am posting this entire story, not only to clear my name, but also to illustrate to Tom and anyone else like him that feels they've been "burned" or "scammed" how quickly circumstances can change. To Tom, my apologies. To this forum, please understand my situation, and let this not give me a bad reputation. Thanks a lot guys! -Rob
  8. With regards to your posting in the thread that I started, called: "The Cure For AIDS?" I think the mods are pretty lenient about opinions. I have a question though. There seems to be a contradiction in your 'wish'. You ask that there be a 'unmoderated' section, but you also want to keep out of the same place? I'm sure that you would agree, (using my post as an example) is quite the proof that such a request is not possible. Just thought I would point that out. -Rob
  9. The plugs that "Goodson" supplies are basically a big bolt that takes the place of the jet-valve assy. You probably should remove the head. You'll have to remove the cam (i did anyways) and once it's out you can remove the valve assy. Here's the problem: The shroud that sits inside the cylinder has a tendency to work itself out. They're only press-fitted in so it might not be a bad idea to remove the head and check all of them. -Rob
  10. I just thought it would be handy if you could include code that would 'auto-check' or remove the "notify of replies to topic" option when you're already being notified. Also, how about a more robust member profile? Â Space to put 1 car pic (200x160) and a modlist? Â I would be willing to pay a member fee for those abilities. Â $5/mo? Â If everyone was giving $5 for the 'premium' features, that should help with bandwidth. Just some thoughts.... -Rob
  11. I've gotten my Goodson JVE kit, and it is painfully simple. Hey Mike, thanks once again, this was a great help! -Conqed_Out
  12. I will say that I've found the short. On my system, the short is a common ground (i believe) that the TLC and TRC share. I did some playing-around with my TLC and the lights go down fine now. My hope in starting this thread, was for people who go to meets and theirs is the only StarQuest with lights up, to find a quick solution here. ;D -Conqed_Out
  13. Did you know that you can just shove some bubble gum in there instead? lol : Shawn... I want a front strutbar! lol... Oh, and do you guys do custom stitching on shift boots? -Rob
  14. Unfortunately, I still have to juggle the two, left switches... :- Personally, I'll deal with that over stuck lights, lol. I honestly wonder if there's a time-table stored in some piece of electronics. Similarly, I wonder if working the lights in the up or down position and then disconnecting the battery will remedy this, annoyance.
  15. Okay, I apologize in advance for not posting this in the 'how-to' or w/e appropriate place it should be.... but.... My headlights have NEVER failed to retract (go to sleep). However, I was playing a joke on my buddy who has a Daytona (notorious for stuck headlight actuators) and I pressed my 'lights-up' (top-most right) button, and shut the car off. Well now, my lights won't retract on their own!!! But alas, I have found a temporary fix. I found, that by pressing the 'lights-off' button, the lowest-left button on the dash, and then proceeding to SLIGHTLY depress the 'parking lights' button while lightly pressing the 'head lights' button, the motors will draw the lights down. I don't know if there is a way to fix what the hell I did, but this works. Guess the joke is on me.... :(
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