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1G ('90-94) TURBO MAS conversion


Boosted_One
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Here is the install for the 1G MAS. Chad did an excellent job at explaining it. Thanks Chad!

 

Make SURE you get a 1G TURBO MAS and not the NA MAS because you will be downgrading! Your target cars are 1990-1994 TURBO Eclipse, Talon and Laser.You will also need the connector off the wire loom from the donor 1G turbo DSM.

 

The non turbo DSM MAS connector will not work for the swap

 

Take your time, solder your wires, tape it up nice and all should work out well. Just make certain you follow these instructions and make sure your wiring is correct.

 

 

After this install on my 20G set-up this gave me more fuel, less restrictions and pushed the fuel cut to some ungodly number like 30 psi or something. I never hit any fuel cut on the 1G MAS with 23PSI.

 

ENJOY!  ;D

 

Mike K

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

the wiring may be easier viewed this way:

 

>> Print this out if you want to do the mod

 

87/89 stock harness, looking at the wire side of the connector. " = " is the clip at the top of the connector.

 

=

1 2 3

4 5 6

 

1-G DSM:

 

=

7 1 2 3

x 4 5 6

 

match up 1 to 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3, etc, leaving 7 unconnected, x is a slot with no wire in the DSM connector.

 

Here are the colors for those who get lost or need further assistance. It also helps verify you have the propper orientation when looking at the conenctor. the 87/89 connector:

 

1 - white/black

2 - large red

3 - green/red #1

4 - black/white #1

5 - black/white #2

6 - gren/red #2

 

the DSM connector:

 

1 - green/blue

2 - large red

3 - green/red

4 - green/black

5 - green/yellow

6 - green/orange

7 - green/white

 

In therory this will work on an 86 as well, I had an 88 on my 86 for a few weeks so I know they are compatable. I can post that color code as well, the colors are all different, and 1 wire needs to be added from a +12V switched source (IGN). If an 88 will work, so then will a 1-G DSM.

 

So how does it work? Awesome !! I noticed a substantial improvement in top end, and lost the stumble at about 3000-3500 I was having with the 88 MAS and my oversided injectors (flooding). I now run an oversized primary on an 88 ECU with this MAS. I hacked the bypass tube like Mike did and got a perfect mixture from idle to WOT at 6000 RPM. At the very least, this allows you to slightly raise the fuel pressure and not flood out in mid-throttle. Keep in mind my car has a butt load of mods, a less modded car probably won't notice as much difference. Stock cars may not want to hack the bypass tubes at first.

 

This is a viable solution to those with bad or flakey MAS's, these units are 1/3 the cost (~$40-$60) and 10 times more plentiful.

 

More hacking may even allow for running a secondary in the place of a primary, but then you get hard cold starts, I can eleborate on this in another post if any one is interested.

 

Chad

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  • 2 weeks later...

currently CARB E.O. number D-40-29 is pending certification on the 1G MAS swap.  :D

 

 

To be honest I don't know if it will pass emissions.

 

I haven't seen anyone posting failed smog test after the swap to flag a concern.

 

Mike K

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Guest Paul87Quest

I have the 1G meter in my 87 TSI...with the following engine mods:

 

marnal 2v head

downpipe with 2 1/2" exhaust

10 lbs of boost

14G turbo

88 ecu

flat top hyper pistons (8.2:1 compression vs stock 7:1)

 

The car did feel to have more pick up off the line right after the install. No change in idle quality. I am running stock fuel injection/pump/fuel pressure.

 

Looking at the two meters together it is obvious that this meter frees up some more flow...every opening is bigger than stock...so from just the standpoint of high boost this meter HAS to allow more intake air at a given rpm. The air flow meter is a significant impediment to air flow. I would recommend for a modded motor or someone who has a bad meter and needs to replace their's....but on a stock car I think you should stay with the stock set up. My 2 cents.  8)

 

I also want to note that I did not hack my meter...strictly bolt in. Also you can use the stock air box and lid but the meter does not fit exactly perfect..some screws will not fit. You must have the talon/eclipse/laser air flow meter connector from the harness...the stock one is different and you MUST cut and splice. Be careful when doing the cutting to be sure you do not mix wires as some have the same pattern.

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Is there any way to diagnois if you wire it wrong?  Also,  I took the cardboard out of my 1g (like I did on the stock) is going to cause problems?

 

took the cardboard out? that's where it actually reads the airflow. In order to modify the dsm mas, you can remove the lower honeycomb, and back out the set screw so they center opening is free and unobstructed, and if you are really crafty you can part of the lower/unmetered section off to allow more unmetered airflow.

 

removing the cardboard will make it read inacurately, and is highly recomended against. as well as removing the upper honeycomb. The upper honeycomb produces small vortices , these vortices are read later in the cardboard section, this is karman vortice metering. if you tamper with that you have effectively killed your mas.

 

on another note, why wouldn't a 2G mas work with the starion then, since the 1G dsm'ers use it as an upgrade. Flows about 20% more air than the 1G mas.

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on another note, why wouldn't a 2G mas work with the starion then, since the 1G dsm'ers use it as an upgrade. Flows about 20% more air than the 1G mas.

 

The 2G MAS flows a lot and ends up throwing our Starion ECU fuel maps way out of their tables. You could however use an Apexi SAFC and use the 2G MAS.

 

Although the SAFC could also be used with a really hacked up Starion MAS with good results.

 

The 2G MAS on a DSM can have the injectors swapped out for larger ones which compensates for the larger 2GMAS. Due to the restrictions with the FI on a Starion injector selections are extremeky limited compared to the FI used on the DSMs

 

The 1G MAS is a quite a leap compared to the stock MAS.A 1G MAS is cheap, available, simple install and runs well with the Starion ECU, almost like a factory upgrade part in a sense.

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on the dsm's you can sometimes get away with using 550 injectors in conjunction with the 2G mas, since they both flow about 20% more, but  Safc is generally required to dial it in, but if you already have a safc, it's a viable option for a mas replacement, since it will flow more air, send fuel cut to some crazy unreachable number hz wise, and has more options available for mounting location etc due to the way the filter attaches. You can make a nice cold air intake as long as you have the space to route the piping.  But then I was able to do this on my car with the 1G mas, sat it in front of the radiator. Just takes a little ingenuity.
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  • 1 month later...

Mike this is a nice surprise. I often wondered but never took it to the next level. Now it looks like I'll be hitting the yards this weekend...

 

What do you mean by "hacking the bypass tube", r u talking about the rubber hose that connects to the intake boot from the filter can lid? Damn, I plugged that long ago, lol. (I've got a 3" PVC pipe there now ;) ) If this is what you mean, a little baby K&N filter there would be a trick solution.

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Hacking the bypass tubes would be opening up the unmetered section of the MAS itself. You can remove the honeycomb on the bypass but do not remove the honeycomb from the metered section.

 

What I did was cut right down the center making the once 2 circles one large oval. I had that MAS dialed in and flowing a heck of a lot than the stock MAS.

 

It drops in really nicely. More importantely it functions much better to the heartbeat of the car IMHO.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Guest surferdude

on 06/07/02 at 14:09:25, KO wrote:Part # E-2875 for the K&N cone, yes it just clips to the DSM lid, you need the DSM clips though, the Starquest clips won't hold the filter to the lid, the DSM clips curve inward more.  

 

 

That's it, KO.  Also, you can order one online from Extreme Motorsports http://www.extrememotorsports.com/ for $40 and have it shipped ground for only a couple of bucks.  The only drawback to mounting the full 1g setup is a lack of support for the whole thing.  On 1g DSM's, we just trim the support bracket very thin to fit the K&N and 1g DSM lid and voila, no damage to the K&N or MAF.  I haven't noticed any damage to the filter using the 1g DSM lid on a Starquest (we have more room in that location and the firewall provides some support without damage or interference), but more mileage could tell a different story.  

 

my two cents worth,

 

Derek

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a point of curiosity, has anybody sucessfully installed a 1G MAS (or any other MAS) on an '86?  I've tried disconnecting my MAS and well, I have one of the '86s that doesn't respond well to that, so I'm thinking the 1G MAS would be a good idea.

 

Jason

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hello guys; could someone that has the 1G AFS installed take a look at their part number and check if it's E 5 T 02071 ?

It seems that I finally found one but need to confirm.

Regards,

Heron

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some of you guys were asking about swapping a 1g mas. I found something I had printed out from along time ago on doing the swap. I wish I could give credit to whoever published it, but I don't know who it was.

Keep in mind this is for a 87/89 ecu, but it should still work. The only diffrence that I can see is that the 87/89 mas and ecu have a barometric sensor on them. On the 87/89 mas connector the last two wires (#5 b/w & #6 g/r) are for that.

 

Someone please correct if I am wrong.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[glow=blue,2,300]86 AFS/MAS                          Â 1G AFS/MAS[/glow]

 

Green/Red------------------Green/Orange

Red-------------------------Green/Red

Black-----------------------Green/Black

White/Black----------------Green/Blue

New > A 16----------------Green/Yellow

New > +12v Switched-----Red

N/C-------------------------Green/White

 

Note

 

1."N/C" means "no connect"

2. A 16, A is the connect on the ecu (the lage 24 pin one) & 16 is the pin number on that connector.

3.Keep in mind that A 16 is only on a 87/89 ecu and this is for the barometric sensor I believe.

4.On a 86 you DO NOT connect the A 16 to 1g's Green/Yellow

 

Hope this helps....let me know if this works.

I have an 87esi-r so I haven't tried it.

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:-/  I've just installed my 1G AFS. Iddling and driving is quite the same but when I gas it all the way to 6K RPM my fuel pressure has a sudden drop to 38 psi or even less. Before, with the stock AFS fuel pressure went all the way to 52 psi and kept there.

I was looking at the manual, electrical section, one of the gren and red wires goes to the tps and the other one to the computer. This 1G AFS has an extra wire that we are not using. Could it be to "exite" the fuel pump? With the swap I CAN'T hear my fuel pump anymore.

Does anyone have a friend that has the electrical scheme for the 1G AFS? I'm going to ask a local Mitsubishi mechanic that has a 90 talon turbo. He swaped his 1G AFS to the 2G and he seems to understand on electrical problems.

Regards,

Heron

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  • 2 weeks later...
For those of you who haven't put on the 1G MAS, there's a way to connect the stock wiring harness to the new MAS without cutting, soldering, taping, etc. I found that the pins that are inside the connectors are exactly the same. Using a flat screwdriver (the kind that's used for eyeglasses) or a thin nail, there's a way to push small plastic clips out of the way inside the connector and push the wires out of the stock connector. Then you can transplant them onto the 1G connector. Comes out much cleaner and faster. It's a little annoying at first but once you push one of the pins out, you'll get the hang of it.
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  • 1 month later...

ok so let me get everything right on this upgrade.

I can not take out the cardboard air silencer that i removed from our Starquest MAS from the 1G MAS?  the one at the top that is in a star shape?

But i  can remove the rectangular honey comb at the bottom?  not the oval one but the rectangular one? all he way at the bottom?

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  • 4 weeks later...

First off,, you should not remove any the honey comb on the bottom of the mask until you get the mask wired in and working ...you can remove the silencer on the top..that connects to the intake pipe that will not hurt anything.

 

After you get everything working and you are sure..you have the wires correct...

Start the car and see how she idles ...the car should idle very well if not better than before...

 

Now take a look at the bottom of your mas and you will see the two honey comb sections.. on that is oval and one that is kinda square....the on that is oval is the none meterd section and can be removed if you feel you car is running too rich...I did not remove mine...I am going to get a safc unit and use that to modify the mixture a bit...

 

later

D

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got a question, the original mas from my 88 was stolen along with the connector. I am rewiring in a 1g mas and i am having problems with the conversion chart above, mainly which ecu pins do the black/white wires go, on the chart i see they are labeled b/w #1 and  b/w#2, on the wiring diagram it is simply b/w#4 and b/w#3, i see that one runs into a splice that goes to the ecu and the other goes to pin 16, how do i know which is which?

would     b/w#1 = b/w#3 ?

and         b/w#2 = b/w#4 ?

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  • 3 weeks later...
I need some correct advice quickly. I can purchase a 1g mas today with connector but no lid. The seller said that the lid was not necessary. Is this true? He says the mas has clips on the bottom of it (mas) that hold it to the air filter but what would hold the mas/filter to the rubber or hard pipe. Exactly what parts would I want if I were to remove them from a car myself? Everyone seems to really dig this mod and I just want to do it correctly the first time.THANKS,Mark
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Yah, I've heard that the clips that normally hold the lid and filter to the MAS can be bent just a little and will hold the filter to the MAS without a lid.  I've actually seen a picture of it somewhere but I can't remember where the heck I saw it though.

 

Hope this helps.

 

-Tim

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