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for all you EDIS freaks that need a Tach


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NOTE! Diodes in pic are NOT the proper diodes. the part numbers are listed in the first picture.

 

PN= 1N4004 - 2 of them

also you need a 15 to 18 volt Zener Diode

Pn= 1N4746A

 

 

Diodes Explained:

 

http://www.evilmadsc...o-zener-diodes/

 

 

QUOTE

Hi,

 

I was wondering how you wired up the stock tach with your EDIS 4 setup?

 

 

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm

 

i had to do this. no other way worked. it lists the part numbers you need. simply solder

them together and make sure the bottom 2 do not touch each other. shrink wrap them

or use liquid electrical tape then slide heat shrink ofer them. then shrink them down while

liquid electrical tape is wet. once it dries the heat shrink will not slip around.

 

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Mega%20Squirt/EDIS_tach.gif

 

another pic:http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Mega%20Squirt/Tach_circuit.jpg

from the above pic i hooked one of the double end side (D-1) to wire 12 (below pic)

and the other (D-2) to wire 10 (below pic) on the EDIS connector. either one can go to either negative coil wire.

 

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Mega%20Squirt/edis4ew.gif

 

the single side (D-3) from top pic goes to cars harness white connector wire shown below.

 

http://i17.photobuck...ro-cu/CU-47.jpg

 

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b71/questmanual/pro-cu/CU-47.jpg

 

to save you the hassel of making one. i know that the 1990 only Eclipse turbo cars had one on them.

 

you will also have to go to a real good electronic store to get your diodes. radioshack had nothing.

http://imgs.tootoo.com/img01/products/119/365/4119365.JPG

 

if you can not find them i can get them for you and make them up as well.

Edited by importwarrior
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i know the connector is white and goes to a brass colored resistor then comes out black, then goes to NEG on coil. there is no longer a coil. that is where i hooked it up.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b71/questmanual/pro-cu/CU-46.jpg

Edited by importwarrior
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1

 

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Mega%20Squirt/EDIS_tach.gif

 

2

 

http://imgs.tootoo.com/img01/products/119/365/4119365.JPG

 

ok in pic 1 above, you see the short line right above the triangle near D1. it goes horizontal. also there is a short line right abovethe triangle near D2 also horizontal. that represents the gray stripe on the diods you see in pic 2

 

D3 zener diode has the line horzontal below the triangle. the gray stripe pointis towards the other 2 diodes in the pic.

 

basically twist them together solder

 

 

 

so

 

turn D3 up side down and solder the end circled to the other 2 diodes circled in RED. all gray stripes should face each other.

in the picture below this is not a Zener Diode. the pic is only to show proper orientation when soldering them together

 

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Mega%20Squirt/diodes-2.jpg

 

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Mega%20Squirt/diodes-4.jpg

 

 

make sure to heat shrink any exposed leads. that way nothing will arc to ground.

Edited by importwarrior
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...
So....Does the Positive side...going to the white wire on the harness.....Does it "tap" into the existing line...? I don't understand this or What the (D-3) is? You got anything for me Importwarrior?
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same question... I think?

do yo retain the stock brass color thing and connect to where the coil negative

terminal used to be.... or connect the free end of diode D3 straight to the stock

white wire/white connector shown above ?

 

yeah, this sorts stuff should be in the FAQ

 

side note:

**ALSO** a megasquirt fuel-only

AND a megasquirt mpi with distributor & timing

AND a megasqurt EDIS. CaliConquestAlex comment saying "how EZ it is", stuck in my

mind :)

 

I really gotta study his and buttons' threads.

Button documented switching between TBI to MPI... made it seem real ez

I gotta read over those threads .....before they dissappear

 

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I re-read this again....So....There is nothing hooked up the the black side of the gold box anymore? The gold box is gone right? I'm pretty sure I understand now. D-3 is the completed neg side for the tach signal....and it goes to the white wire. I gotcha...i think.
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to save you the hassel of making one. i know that the 1990 only Eclipse turbo cars had one on them.

 

do you know where it is physically located on the 90 DSM ?

 

I'd think the non turbo 2.0 may have them also as its the same electronics ? ...so

more 1990s to choose from

 

I'll build the circuit as u kindly posted, but I may actually be able to find a 90 2L DSM quicker than I can get those diodes :)

 

 

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test it with the gold filter still attached, you may or may not need it.

 

BOHO did you end up getting the megajolt?

 

I picked up a megasquirt II and am just going to ditch the FIP computer all together. Going to swap over on Friday.

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  • 8 months later...

 

the single side (D-3) from top pic goes to cars harness white connector wire shown below.

 

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b71/questmanual/pro-cu/CU-47.jpg

 

 

I am having trouble identifying the correct wire in my situation. I have a red arrow pointing to the item i think it is.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/jisleyjr/starion_mpi/HPIM2336_arrow.jpg

 

I soldered up the diodes how i thought they should be and used the red arrow wire. No tach signal.

 

I am a little confused to what the little symbols mean on each diode, does the way the arrow points mean something. I see white/black lines on one side of the diodes i bought, is that the 'output' side? I am not sure if there is an 'input' and 'output' side to these things.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Mega%20Squirt/EDIS_tach.gif

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Diodes are like check valves. They only let electrons flow in one direction and that is what the band is indicating (and why an LED or light emitting diodes only "lights" when wired correctly). The two lower diodes in the diagram are regular diodes. The top Diode is a Zenner which blocks current flow until it hits a certain level and then allows it to flow in the reverse direction. Think of the bottom two as a traditional door, it only opens one way. The top diode (being a zenner) is like a door that swings both in and out, however it only swings out when the room reaches its maximum capacity and required it to do so.
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If you cannot find the correct wire in the engine bay, you can run a wire directly to the back of the tach in the cluster.

 

-Robert

I'm in no mood to pull the cluster out. hehe

 

Looking at the service manual it looks like the tach wire was not in the engine wiring harness, which i have pulled out completely. Page 47 A-30.

 

I just need someone to be able to tell me if i have the right one pointed out in that picture. I am guessing i have one of the diodes backwards.

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just out of curiosity, has anyone tried using the pin #2 on the edis module ? it says on the main page of the megamanual for edis, that some people can connect there to make a stock tach work. i havent had the opportunity to try it yet but its not far away on my list.

 

 

also, those are digi key part #'s. or are those part #s pretty universal. or do you have the values for them 15-18volt zener is simple enough. what about the other two diodes values?

 

 

nevermind about the valuesand part #s. a quick look at digi keys website told me what i was asking.

Edited by pure_insanity
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