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Krankvent install instructions


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NOTE: THESE INSTRUCTIONS ARE BASED UPON WHAT HAS WORKED ON SEVERAL APPLICATIONS TO DATE. THEY ARE EVOLVING & WILL GET BETTER W/ YOUR FEEDBACK. (8/01)

 

CONCEPT: KEEP THESE IDEAS IN MIND THRUOUT THE INSTALLATION.

 

1. WHEN ON BOOST, PRESSURE ENTERS THE CRANK CASE, MAINLY THRU THE PCV VALVE, BECAUSE THE PCV VALVE CAN'T HOLD THE BOOST PRESSURE.

 

2. THE TWO KRANK VENTSâ„¢ WILL ONLY WORK IF INSTALLED WITH THE AIR FLOW IN THE PROPER DIRECTION AS EXPLAINED BELOW. INSTALLING THE KRANK VENTS BACKWARDS WILL PRESSURIZE THE CRANK CASE, POSSIBLY MORE THAN IF THE KV'S ARE NOT PRESENT!!!

 

3. REMEMBER THAT THE ENGINE MUST BE AS "AIR TIGHT" AS POSSIBLE (usually okay).

 

a. NO K&N STYLE "BREATHER CAPS" ON THE VALVE COVERS OR OIL FILLER CAPS ALLOWED-THEY MUST BE THE THIN CAPS THAT SEAL.

 

b. IF ENGINE EQUIPPED WITH AN OIL DRAIN THAT ORIGINALLY RAN TO THE OIL PAN FROM THE STOCK "SEPARATOR CUP" THEN THIS LINE MUST BE BLOCKED OFF.

 

BLOW ON KRANK VENT END. THE END THAT FLOWS AIR DEFINES "FLOW" DIRECTION OR "INLET". IT IS ALSO THE "SMOOTH" END WITHOUT PRESSED-IN SEAM ON THE SMALL KV & THE END WITH "IN" STAMPED ON LARGER KRANK VENT.

 

KRANK VENT ATTACHMENTS

 

SMALL KRANK VENT W/ 3/8" HOSE BARBS:

 

THIS KV GOES INTO THE 3/8" LINE THAT HAS THE OEM PCV VALVE ATTACHED & GOES INTO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. EITHER SPLICE THE SMALL KV INTO THIS LINE OR, IF PCV VALVE IS TOO RESTRICTIVE, REPLACE THE PCV VALVE W/ THE SMALL KV. IN EITHER CASE, THE FLOW IS TOWARDS THE INTAKE MANIFOLD! ON BOOST, THE PRESSURE IN THE MANIFOLD WILL CLOSE THIS KRANK VENT.

 

LARGER KRANK VENT W/ 1/2" HOSE BARBS:

 

THIS KV GOES INTO THE LARGER 1/2" HOSE THAT EXITS THE VALVE COVER (OR SOMETIMES THE REAR BREATHER PORT) & ORIGINALLY WENT TO THE AIR BOX. SPLICE THE LARGE KV INTO THIS LINE WITH THE FLOW AWAY FROM THE ENGINE! IF THE END OF THIS HOSE IS NOT CONNECTED TO THE AIR BOX THEN IT CAN VENT TO THE ATMOSPHERE OR A CATCH CAN.

 

© 2000-2001 ET Performance Products, all rights reserved. No portion of this document may be reproduced without written permission of ET Performance. Turbo Kit intended for off road racing applications. Krank Vent™ is a trademark of ET Performance & Racing Products.

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This is taken directly from the Krankvent site.

 

I would also add not to use the OEM PCV valve in the system. If anything you can knock out the internals of the PCV to use it as a fitting only. Best off getting a new fitting for the valve cover,

 

I get asked frequently on how to install the ste up and this should help as a reference.

 

Additional tech information can be found at www.krankvent.com

 

Also here is a good link on how the stock PCV works and what the KV will do:

 

http://www.stealth316.com/2-krankvents.htm

 

*** I do not work for this manufactor. I am on a good basis with the creator of this product and have worked with him closely on this Starion and Total Seal ring project to acheive the final results of this set up.Occasionally I also help him with info for other turbo cars like the DSMs,Stealth TT, turbo'd Miatas and the like. I in no way profit financially from any sales of this product,  ***

 

 

Mike K

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got mine coming, and have 2 previous motors with Total Seal Rings to compare with when I get this one together.  I did the Kevin C. block mod to remove the lips around cylinder #3 that cup it.  I wonder what kind of contraption was used there for crankcase ventilation, but I can see how it would negatively affect it as it is.  

I'll keep all informed.  Should get my block back this week, and have the bottom end together this weekend.  Do the rest next week & install it all.  

Tim C.

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Some key things on the install:

 

- No open air leaks. Cap off the oil pan line that once went to the oil seperator.

 

-  Large KV goes on the back of the valve cover "breather" port. Air should flow OUT of this valve.

 

- Smaller KV replaces the OEM PCV Valve should flow INTO the intake manifold.

 

-  Do not use your OEM PCV. If you need to use it as a fitting be sure to either drill or punch out the guts. Better off getting a fitting for it. An old stock intake manifold will have a suitable fitting.

 

- shoot for 5-7" of vacuum at idle. This can be checked with a vacuum gauge placed on the dipstick tube at idle. If you need to restrict it put a slug with a small (1/8" or so) diameter hole inline after the small KV until you get desired results. Some people have needed to do this , others have not.

 

If everything is OK at an idle you should here loud vacuum sounds emmiting from the dipstick tube when you puil it. If you remove the oil cap at idle you will hear a loud pop sound, kind of like opening a 5 gallon pail of vacuum sealed dry roasted peanuts.

 

Please do post your findings and results on it.

 

 

 

Mike K

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Yes, what is the purpose and also, would this have anything to do with emissions as far as passing smog?  I live in CA so I think everyone knows how strickt CA emissions are.  Steve

 

86 Starion

San Diego, CA

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Yes, what is the purpose and also, would this have anything to do with emissions as far as passing smog?  I live in CA so I think everyone knows how strickt CA emissions are.  Steve

 

86 Starion

San Diego, CA

 

The purpose is to create partial vacuum in the crankcase on and off boost. The valves use the vacuum pulses created in the piston bore to retain a partial vacuum.

 

Tech information can be located on the manufactors website www.krankvent.com

 

People haven'y had problems passing emmisions with the Krankvent set-up. Ted at ET Performance can fill you in on the CA smog tests as the product is made and tested in CA.

 

Mike K

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  • 7 months later...

Can you tell me why i would have oil being forced back through the oil drip hose that is connected to the canistor next to the air filter and goign into the valve cover....I an getting oil coming up through there like a fauset.  Any ideas, i heard of krankcase pressure but what do i do.  For right now i plugged the oil drip hose and added a little air filter on the valve cover and elliminatesd the canistor.

 

What do you think?

 

Oh and it's a rebuild engine, new turbo, and bottom and top rebuilt.

 

 :-[

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I have confirmed that the PCV has not been drilled/hollowed out.  The engine has about 2300 miles on it since the rebuild.  

 

My oil pressure iis just a tad over the 1/2 mark under power and at maybe 1/8 during idle.  Too low?  Will modifying the PCV help raise my oil pressure, if it is too low for an engine with TS rings and KV kit?  Should I mess with the PCV now or leave it be?

 

 

Thanks,

 

D.

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People have knocked out or drilled out the internals on the PCV valve.

 

Me personally, I took a fitting off an old intake manifold. The fitting that goes to the intake for the PCV is the same thread as the valvecover.

 

Not sure what thread size it is but a NPT thread may work, not sure though.

 

You may need to put a restrictor inline like I said so keep an eye on it.

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  • 4 months later...

I have the Krankvents set up on my GS-T. People have asked if the set ups would hamper emmission testing. Even though others have passed I have never been able to tell anyone personally because my Starion is set up to avoid emmison testing.  

 

Well the next best thing I can say is the set up passed with flying colors on my 1990 GS-T. Guy said it was running real clean for a 1990 vehicle with higher mileage.

 

This was on a dyno emmision tester running it up to like 50-60 mph.

 

On a side note I picked up a little power on the GS-T. I was having a little oil coming out of my oil cap. I went thru the entire stock system replaced the oil cap, the dipstick, the PCV and checked everything related to the OEM breathing system. Still had some oil coming out of the oil cap. Motor has 155,000 miles on it and compression checks still yielded 150psi+.

 

After the install and getting the correct size restrictor to produce the desired 5"-7" of vacuum in the crankcase the small mist of oil pushing out of the oil cap is completely gone now.

 

Very happy with the results on a 98% completely stock 155,000 mile motor.

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  • 1 month later...

I have a concern about this product. with all this vacuum in the crank case, especially on an older engine it will seriously mulitply the amount of blow by. in addition it will suck all that fuel and other contaminents from the combustion chamber into the crank case and right into the oil. but you wouldn't know of the blowby just by opening the oil cap since now all that dirty air is being sucked into the inake. its basically creating an unhealthy situation for the engine and at the same time covering up the problem. i dont see the reasoning; it it a few HP gain? i am sure this will require an oil change every 1000 miles with this.

 

if i am not mistaking, new engines strive to minimize all blowby and we have this product which is crating a vacuum which works agains the piston rings and tries to suck things out from its cracks. one thing it will accomplish is to help minimize blue smoke in older engines since there will be no more leakage of oil into the combustion chamber(both from the piston side and valve side). so it will reduce oil consumption. actually one might even see an increase in the oil level since there will be the addition of the stuff that will be dumped into the oil due to the blowby.

 

this is just my two cents.

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I have a concern about this product. with all this vacuum in the crank case, especially on an older engine it will seriously mulitply the amount of blow by. in addition it will suck all that fuel and other contaminents from the combustion chamber into the crank case and right into the oil. but you wouldn't know of the blowby just by opening the oil cap since now all that dirty air is being sucked into the inake. its basically creating an unhealthy situation for the engine and at the same time covering up the problem. i dont see the reasoning; it it a few HP gain? i am sure this will require an oil change every 1000 miles with this.

 

if i am not mistaking, new engines strive to minimize all blowby and we have this product which is crating a vacuum which works agains the piston rings and tries to suck things out from its cracks. one thing it will accomplish is to help minimize blue smoke in older engines since there will be no more leakage of oil into the combustion chamber(both from the piston side and valve side). so it will reduce oil consumption. actually one might even see an increase in the oil level since there will be the addition of the stuff that will be dumped into the oil due to the blowby.

 

this is just my two cents.

 

If contamination is the case then why is the stock breathing set up to pull in the crankcase pressure from the valvecover?

 

Same enviorment the KV works in.

 

The KV maintain 5" of vacuum, how is that A lot of vacuum?

 

Also I am at a complete loss as to what you mean about a KV pulling stuff out of the combustion chamber?? The KV is not connected into the combustion chamber. The KV that replaces the PCV pulls 5" of vacuum off boost  and the other KV pulses pressure out on boost.

 

The main benefit is the KV won't leak boost back into the valvecover and the lower end does not have to work against crankcase pressure. There is arguably a seat of the pants noticable gain.

 

Vacuum seals the rings, pulls them against the walls. Your not sucking past the rings especially with 5" of crankcase vacuum.

 

The KV operate a lot like a vacuum pump crankcase evacuation system.

 

 I have been thru all of this before about 3 or 4 years ago when I brought this mod to the public. Many people runing these with no problems, not just a few within our club.

 

There's 2 valves, one runs off boost and the other valve runs on boost. The one boost valve only pulses pressure out, there is no return to the intake. So on boost you will NEVER see any crank pressure being pulled into the intake tract. It is being pulsed out and the vacuum created by the piston is kept.

 

http://a6.cpimg.com/image/0A/00/17625866-bda1-02000180-.jpg

 

Please feel free to to check the site out www.krankvent.com and if you need further assistance (down to a science) with your concerns send an email to the creator of this product. He will be able to give you any and all info on how it actually works. By reading your post I am not so sure you completely understand what is involved and how it works exactly.

 

http://www.3si.org/portal/forums/showthrea...mp;pagenumber=1  (I personally helped this guy a few years ago when he emailed me)

 

http://www.3si.org/portal/forums/showthrea...light=krankvent

 

http://www.stealth316.com/2-krankvents.htm

 

http://www.3000gtvr4.com/pages/krankvent.html

 

http://www.3si.org/portal/forums/search.ph...rder=descending

 

http://www.google.com/search?q=krankvent&a...tart=0&sa=N

 

All that stuff related to turbocharging and KV available on Google stems from my work with the KV as I was the first person in the universe to run this system on a turbo car.

 

This system works and works well.  Even passes dyno emmission testing. No surprise why there are quite a few car clubs and racing teams running these now.

 

Just want to clear up misinformation about a good product, especially with all the work and research I have done with this product.

 

These aren't necessarily bandaids as people with zero experience with them will lead one to believe. :)

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  • 1 month later...
NO PCV WITH KV!!!!

 

If you use a PCV drill all the insides out of it!

 

Shoot for 5-7" of vacuum in the crankcase. You'll probably need to put a restrictor inline to reduce the vacuum draw.

 

NO PCV WITH KV!!

 

 

what if there is more than 5-7"?

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what if there is more than 5-7"?

 

 

You would install a restrictor. I used a metal slug and drilled a 1/6" hole in it.

 

I pull under 8 " on it.

 

You'll know if your pulling too much air in because the motor will howl at idle from air pulling in the seal.

 

Automotive seals can take anywhere from ~12" - 15" before they want to implode.

 

This was told to me by a credible local racer who runs a belt driven vacuum pump in his Chevy. Told me he runs 12" on his vaccum pump set up.

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  • 1 month later...

Update:

 

I have the new motor in with Speed Pro Chrome rings.

 

I am pulling WAY too much vacuum in the crankcase with the same 1/8" restrictor in that I ran with the Total Seal rings.

 

Ultimately what I had to do was put the stock PCV back in and use 2 restrictors @ 1/16" ID.

 

One restrictor went to the small KV to the end away from the valve cover. THe other restrictor went straight to the fitting at the intake manifold.

 

I am pulling ~ 8" at idle in the crankcase and that's as low as I can get it.

 

Somehow I think the machining that was done in the crankcase to help breathing is REALLY impacting the amount of vacuum the crankcase is getting.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've had my KVs on for a while and I just left in a Mitsu. PCV valve.  It get 5" of vacuum at idle.  And I'm pretty sure it help cut down my oil buring/loss.  But I think I'm still managing to pop my dipstick up some and spray a little bit of oil.  Its never messy but I get odd oil residue on some hoses and the other day I even had some on my FPR.  

 

Any way, for fun I pulled out the PCV valve and switched to a full open fitting (no restrictor) so I could see what it pulled.  It went to 8" at idle but it was idling like crap and I could hear it sucking air through somewhere  so I can only assume it was at 8" just because it wasn't sealed.

 

Any input on the possibility of still pressurizing the crankcase to pop the dipstick a little under boost?

 

Steve A.

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