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R 154 Toyota Supra Turbo trans mounted to a wide block


Bill Hincher
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I bought a d 50 trans from a starion and chopped off the front end of it, then i sloted the sides

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock3.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock5.jpg

I had a spacer casted for the r 154 trans and I milled it flat to size and entered it in the Starion trans

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock8.jpg

then I re sized all the engine mounting bolts out by 2%

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock9.jpg

then I resized the flywheel opening by 2%

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock10.jpg

i bored out the R 154 spacer out to size and finished the facing square to the bellhousing on the bridgeport

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock12.jpg

I made sure to use all the mounts and openings to re use the exact same clutch controls that come with the Starion, so there is no need to change anything but the bellhousing a direct fit

then I filled all the panels in, one at a time with 1/8 aluminum material

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock14.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock15.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock16.jpg

then next I will mold it all in , smooth it all out and make sure the wall sides are the thickness I want before casting

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock18.jpg

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Is that a Honda CRX? I had that Tranny on my SQ for a while, different set up it wasn't machined or spaced like that it was the bellhousing from the SQ welded on the Supra tranny, it felt awesome it's got great gear ratios but it kept breaking Friction discs.. You should DEFINITELY have a few of these up for sale in a GP or singles!
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Is that a Honda CRX? I had that Tranny on my SQ for a while, different set up it wasn't machined or spaced like that it was the bellhousing from the SQ welded on the Supra tranny, it felt awesome it's got great gear ratios but it kept breaking Friction discs.. You should DEFINITELY have a few of these up for sale in a GP or singles!

 

 

yes, thats aCRX

 

I dont understand ? GP or singles?

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Bill,

 

You sure do nice work...What is your plan with these?

I promised to build couple for Turbo Addict and Pinko, so I will run about 10 of them off with hand lay up techniques and if they prove out, I will build an investment casting and run off a few each month

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I promised to build couple for Turbo Addict and Pinko, so I will run about 10 of them off with hand lay up techniques and if they prove out, I will build an investment casting and run off a few each month

 

You've got me all kinds of excited about this Bill - can't wait!! My bell-housingless r-154 is sitting on the bench just waiting for a new home. :)

 

I was wondering about a couple small details, which I am sure you will cover but wanted to throw them out there. First of course is that shifter housing extension you were working on and if that is still in process, and the other is how the pilot bearing will sit in the crankshaft instead of in the flywheel. Is there a larger pilot bearing that will fit in the crankshaft or do we need to come up with some way of making a 'housing' for a pilot bearing that will seat there?

 

Thanks again for doing this, I can't wait to actually be able to 'use' the power on the track. hehe

 

Tom

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I keep all my stuff in the $400.00 dollar range,the only one that went over that was the T 56 short shaft, the d*mn thing took so much effort to do.

the nice thing about this bellhousing is that it is plug and play, same flywheel, same pressure plate, same cluch fork and pivot ball, everything from the Starion was reused, just a Toyota disc and then I gaot to work out the throw out bearing

 

the work never ends, when I finish one bellhousing, I go back and try to improve it, and then when I can I start something new, this wide block should be easy enough because I have already done the R 154 in the narrow block, so it should come along much faster

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Beautiful. I've got an R154 just sitting [bought it for dirt cheap as a spare for the shop's 7MGTE-swapped drift Cressida] that needs to go into my car. :lol:

 

It's just a 9" Toyota clutch disc, correct? Is it sourced from the trucks or is it a Supra piece?

Edited by Dave-O
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Beautiful. I've got an R154 just sitting [bought it for dirt cheap as a spare for the shop's 7MGTE-swapped drift Cressida] that needs to go into my car. :lol:

 

It's just a 9" Toyota clutch disc, correct? Is it sourced from the trucks or is it a Supra piece?

up until now I have used the truck 9in disc on my narrow block stuff, I have to measure out the disc to the right flywheel diameter for the wide block, the Supra disc is rated for 320 hp in original form,I think the Supra is a larger disc, the stage 4 stuff from comp clutch claims to be 400 hp

I try to keep all my parts 'over the counter' in keeping with your 'dirt cheap' policy :rolleyes:

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  • 1 month later...

I am working out the R 154 options,the problem with the R 154, its geared too high, here is the comparisions

 

1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th

R150 - 3.83 2.062 1.436 1.00 0.838

R151 - 4.31 3.32 1.52 1.00 0.83

R154 - 3.25 1.95 1.30 1.00 0.75

Starion (KM132-M-CNL) 3.369:1 2.035:1 1.360:1 1:1 .856:1

 

 

The R 150's 2wd are found on all the toyota V 6 trucks pre 86

The R 151 was used on the turbo 4 cyl Toyota truck and 86-87 and v-6 toyota trucks after 87

they sell for about 3-500 bucks on car-part.com and there are plenty of them

 

The input shafts are shorter then the R 154, and they are different before and after 86, but all I have to do is change how the bellhousing is built and then cut the back plate for wwhich ever trans is ordered

 

 

the problem is in the Starions, they have the torque tube set up in the rear end with limited selection of axle ratio's available

 

the other problem is cost and availablity of the R 154

 

This all came about because I am building the wide block R 154, option and I been watching the cost of the transmissions . Once you pay $800.00 for a trans and $425.00 for a clutch, its hard to justify the adaptor

 

The 96 and up input shaft for the R 150 and R 151 should be the same as the R 154 ( 7.5 I have to make sure of that) and the input shaft of pre 96 should be the same as the W 55's ( 6.5)

the R 151 & 150 should be good up to 450 hp ( from what I can read)

the pre 96 trans sells for $300.00 bucks all day long on car-part.com and all you need is a Toyota disc with the OEM Mits pressure plate and I think it would use the W 55 throw out bearing collar

 

what I am saying is , I can either shorten or lengthen the bellhousing within a 1 inch range and drop the cost of the swap while increasing the gear ratio selection

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I am working out the R 154 options,the problem with the R 154, its geared too high, here is the comparisions

 

1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th

R150 - 3.83 2.062 1.436 1.00 0.838

R151 - 4.31 3.32 1.52 1.00 0.83

R154 - 3.25 1.95 1.30 1.00 0.75

Starion (KM132-M-CNL) 3.369:1 2.035:1 1.360:1 1:1 .856:1

 

 

The R 150's 2wd are found on all the toyota V 6 trucks pre 86

The R 151 was used on the turbo 4 cyl Toyota truck and 86-87 and v-6 toyota trucks after 87

they sell for about 3-500 bucks on car-part.com and there are plenty of them

 

The input shafts are shorter then the R 154, and they are different before and after 86, but all I have to do is change how the bellhousing is built and then cut the back plate for wwhich ever trans is ordered

 

 

the problem is in the Starions, they have the torque tube set up in the rear end with limited selection of axle ratio's available

 

the other problem is cost and availablity of the R 154

 

This all came about because I am building the wide block R 154, option and I been watching the cost of the transmissions . Once you pay $800.00 for a trans and $425.00 for a clutch, its hard to justify the adaptor

 

The 96 and up input shaft for the R 150 and R 151 should be the same as the R 154 ( 7.5 I have to make sure of that) and the input shaft of pre 96 should be the same as the W 55's ( 6.5)

the R 151 & 150 should be good up to 450 hp ( from what I can read)

the pre 96 trans sells for $300.00 bucks all day long on car-part.com and all you need is a Toyota disc with the OEM Mits pressure plate and I think it would use the W 55 throw out bearing collar

 

what I am saying is , I can either shorten or lengthen the bellhousing within a 1 inch range and drop the cost of the swap while increasing the gear ratio selection

 

couldnt you also use a w58 trans

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couldnt you also use a w58 trans

 

 

yeah I could but I want explore all the options, I would preffer to build the prototype pattern in a fashion that it could accept a variety of transmission options so the buyer had a better selection

the bolt pattern is the same between the R 150,151 and 154 , its just a matter of input shaft length, so the back of the casting has to be built to accept any input length by just cutting the rear facing to size

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On that note my input shaft was a long one on the R-154, I had to grind off a good quarter inch maybe more because when bolted in, the shaft would hit the engine (or press in with the pilot bearing) and not allow it to move. Then again this set up had a permanent bellhousing on the tranny it was not a plate..
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On that note my input shaft was a long one on the R-154, I had to grind off a good quarter inch maybe more because when bolted in, the shaft would hit the engine (or press in with the pilot bearing) and not allow it to move. Then again this set up had a permanent bellhousing on the tranny it was not a plate..

 

 

according to what I understand, the 96 and above r 150 and r 151 uses a 7.5 inch input shaft, the R 154 uses a 7.25 inch input shaft, but on the narrow block 4G63 set ups, the R 154 ( 7.25in input shaft) had to have the pilot bearing shaft shortened by .25 to allow the spline to the clutch disc to get a full engagement with the input shaft spline ( it moved the transmission forward by .25inch)

the pre '96 R 150 and 151 should not require that with the 6.5inch input shaft and there is one more advantage, there was a 22Re Toyota turbo engine built for 2 years that used a 2 wd R 151 with a very low first gear ratio, I have checked and they seem to be readily available

 

I should have some pic's this week

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This is the continued work on the R 154 for the g54b wide block option, I am furthur along then this but I been too busy to write it up

 

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock19.jpg

the only clutch part needed is the Toyota Supra turbo disc for about $45.00 bucks and a pilot bearing

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock20.jpg

the Toyota disc is exactly the same as the mits disc

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock21.jpg

with this system iwill be using the mits starter/flywheel/ and pressure plate so there is no need for custom parts

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock24.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock25.jpg

the R 154 centered up nicly on the bellhousing, I am working with the depth here, the bellhousing has to be built with a 1% shrinkage factored in after casting so it has to be built abut 1/4 inch longer in this pattern

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock26.jpg

i built my own throw out bearing holder to fit the r 154 collar but I re used all the Satrion clutch control parts as in the clutch fork, pivot ball and slave cylinder

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock29.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock30.jpg

you can just make out the 1/8 in plate that was added in between the engine and bellhousing , thats for shrinkage in the casting

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock35.jpg

I always place a heat vent at the top of the bellhousing,the wall thickness has been added but not shown here and the pattern is being molded to final shape, i wanted to be in casting this week but I need 2 or 3 more days

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock36.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

this takes hours to fine tune and adjust, sanding and adding material in a way the will draft in the casting proscess while allowing for the 1% shrink and keeping the wall thickness thick where I want it and thin where its not needed

http://billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock37.jpg

http://billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock38.jpg

http://billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock39.jpg

http://billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock40.jpg

http://billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock41.jpg

I test for accuracy in where everything locates every time I get to a stopping point

http://billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock42.jpg

http://billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock43.jpg

http://billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock44.jpg

http://billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock45.jpg

http://billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock46.jpg

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