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Need advice from starquest veterans.


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#21 Spooled_Starion

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Posted 04 April 2019 - 04:37 PM

View Postucw458, on 04 April 2019 - 03:22 PM, said:

Unless you're MPI and pushing big power an 044 pump is overkill.  That pump supports 600-700 HP.  You will need a bigger FPR and a 10ga wire to support that pump.  Not to mention they are loud.

Not looking for any of that. I'm looking for a quiet pump, like one you seriously have to tell someone to be quiet because you're trying to hear if your pump is on lol I'm looking for a drop in and go, good reliable pump that's quiet and capable of 300hp reliably.

Edited by Spooled_Starion, 04 April 2019 - 05:18 PM.

Hks Downpipe, hks exhaust, hks intake, hks camshaft, hks pfc-fcon, hks fcd, hks turbo timer, trilogy injectors, mk1 short shifter, GReddy traditional shift knob, 89 ecu, Hks Boost gauge, innovative wideband A/F gauge.





#22 Ressurect1on

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Posted 04 April 2019 - 07:02 PM

Walbro 255LPH should be fine for you then. but if your dumping fuel, then adding more flow seems counter-intuitive to me.

Out of curiousity, how do you know it's dumping fuel? is your MPG poor? have you verified no leaks in the lines?

Edited by Ressurect1on, 04 April 2019 - 07:03 PM.


#23 ucw458

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Posted 04 April 2019 - 07:07 PM

Stock SQ pump is around 100-120 liters per hour iirc.  044 is 300 lph.  I have an 044 in mine and you can hear it over the engine idling.  I hit 300HP on a stock pump.  

Stock pump wiring is a little small.  DSM guys found out fixing the pump wiring increases stock pump flow rates.  You run a 10ga wire from the battery to a relay next to the pump.  Then use the stock pump wiring to turn on the relay.  No more voltage drop at the pump from small wires.
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#24 81zfan

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Posted 04 April 2019 - 08:30 PM

I am fixing to that mod ucw, just waiting on the relay to come in the mail.
http://www.vfaq.com/...pump-relay.html
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#25 Spooled_Starion

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Posted 04 April 2019 - 09:05 PM

View PostRessurect1on, on 04 April 2019 - 07:02 PM, said:

Walbro 255LPH should be fine for you then. but if your dumping fuel, then adding more flow seems counter-intuitive to me.

Out of curiousity, how do you know it's dumping fuel? is your MPG poor? have you verified no leaks in the lines?

I agree with you, I know the fpr is gonna do its job with regulating fuel but dont want to overwork it or stress it out and fail them prematurely. I know its dumping fuel based on what my wideband o2 sensor is telling me on the gauge. It starts getting richer and richer and then my car makes less and less power the richer she gets. She doesnt get the best mileage anyways, it hard to keep my foot out of it with a bigger turbo and lots of other go fast whoosh parts lol

Edited by Spooled_Starion, 04 April 2019 - 09:08 PM.

Hks Downpipe, hks exhaust, hks intake, hks camshaft, hks pfc-fcon, hks fcd, hks turbo timer, trilogy injectors, mk1 short shifter, GReddy traditional shift knob, 89 ecu, Hks Boost gauge, innovative wideband A/F gauge.

#26 Indiana

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Posted 05 April 2019 - 08:40 PM

Remove the FCD its completely useless.  

Non professionally cleaned old injectors do not work, get them cleaned.

What ignitor is being used

Plug gap is way too small

Plug wires can't cross each other or lay on the engine they will cause misfires

87 ECI harness is not the same as 88 and  all that stuff under your name says an 88 which also has no use for a MAP sensor signal and the ignitor wiring is different

A 14g is a baby turbo and requires no mods

If the downpipe is large and open, meaning no CAT and the 02 isn't heated its may not be producing a signal for the ECU

The intake manifold has a ground to the ECI harness, which is the ground for all those sensors

The CTS and temp gauge unit connectors in the ECI harness are the same, if the molded boot from the CTS connector is gone like many are check the wire colors otherwise if those are swapped you end up shorting out the CTS signal so its like the choke closed on a carbureted engine it runs too rich.

If the tip switch on the idle motor is bad it won't switch to use the 02 even if it was working.

Even old replaced injector clips can go bad and still must have those wire retaining clips

A dying fuel pump that is not maintaining correct pressure can end up dispensing too much fuel because it can't be atomized correctly under lower pressures

Have the lifters been cleaned you're sure one isn't failing when the engine is running and if you have mechanical rocker arms have them been checked and you have consistent compression numbers

After you run it and it goes rich push in the clutch and turn the key off and pull the plugs and look at them, are they all black or just some that may help to see compression issues.    7031 plugs were designed to be foul resistant and they clean back up so try and look at them when you see the over rich condition which requires a dyno or road with little traffic

If there's a BOV present remove it, disable it, plug the hole up and make sure its not leaking.  

Remove the Fcon and start over its likely the issue and with that turbo you don't need it anyway

Responding with disclaimers that I did this and I did that it couldn't be the problem won't fix your car and if all these things were done to every car most issues would all be gone but everyone is too lazy and won't believe simple things can screw this car up especially about having injectors cleaned but they will push 100s of dollars of unburnt fuel out the tailpipe for years thinking their injectors are just fine when they are not while driving around a car that runs like crap because they don't understand how its supposed to run in the first place.

#27 Spooled_Starion

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Posted 05 April 2019 - 11:27 PM

View PostIndiana, on 05 April 2019 - 08:40 PM, said:

Remove the FCD its completely useless.  

Non professionally cleaned old injectors do not work, get them cleaned.

What ignitor is being used

Plug gap is way too small

Plug wires can't cross each other or lay on the engine they will cause misfires

87 ECI harness is not the same as 88 and  all that stuff under your name says an 88 which also has no use for a MAP sensor signal and the ignitor wiring is different

A 14g is a baby turbo and requires no mods

If the downpipe is large and open, meaning no CAT and the 02 isn't heated its may not be producing a signal for the ECU

The intake manifold has a ground to the ECI harness, which is the ground for all those sensors

The CTS and temp gauge unit connectors in the ECI harness are the same, if the molded boot from the CTS connector is gone like many are check the wire colors otherwise if those are swapped you end up shorting out the CTS signal so its like the choke closed on a carbureted engine it runs too rich.

If the tip switch on the idle motor is bad it won't switch to use the 02 even if it was working.

Even old replaced injector clips can go bad and still must have those wire retaining clips

A dying fuel pump that is not maintaining correct pressure can end up dispensing too much fuel because it can't be atomized correctly under lower pressures

Have the lifters been cleaned you're sure one isn't failing when the engine is running and if you have mechanical rocker arms have them been checked and you have consistent compression numbers

After you run it and it goes rich push in the clutch and turn the key off and pull the plugs and look at them, are they all black or just some that may help to see compression issues.    7031 plugs were designed to be foul resistant and they clean back up so try and look at them when you see the over rich condition which requires a dyno or road with little traffic

If there's a BOV present remove it, disable it, plug the hole up and make sure its not leaking.  

Remove the Fcon and start over its likely the issue and with that turbo you don't need it anyway

Responding with disclaimers that I did this and I did that it couldn't be the problem won't fix your car and if all these things were done to every car most issues would all be gone but everyone is too lazy and won't believe simple things can screw this car up especially about having injectors cleaned but they will push 100s of dollars of unburnt fuel out the tailpipe for years thinking their injectors are just fine when they are not while driving around a car that runs like crap because they don't understand how its supposed to run in the first place.

I will remove the fcd this weekend and see if that helps at all. I also plan on sending the injectors out for sonic cleaning and flow testing. I had planned on doing it already but haven't gotten around to it yet. The ignitor is still the factory 87 black box. I have an 88/89 metal box style with the pigtail waiting to be put in. I will try gapping the plugs open a bit more, what do you reccomend for an appropriate gap? The map sensor is what the hks pfc fcon uses to register boost so it knows when to add or subtract more fuel. I was wondering if perhaps the map sensor itself was bad. The downpipe is a hks downpipe from the 90s and I believe it is a 2.5". I do have a cat but its further downstream in the exhaust. The cts plug still has the boot on the plug itself and I verified that it is plugged in to the correct new cts sensor. I do have brand new injector clips waiting to be installed as well, the current clips do have the retaining clip that's tight and intact. Removing the hks fcon was something I had wanted to do but looking at how it was installed it looks like a complete pain in the tail to remove but I suppose I can give it a try one day. I do have a blow off valve installed but I dont have a factory ovcp to be able to eliminate the bov. According to my vac/boost gauge I'm not leaking any pressure, at least from what I can tell. Thanks for the tips and information I heavily appreciate it.

Edited by Spooled_Starion, 05 April 2019 - 11:35 PM.

Hks Downpipe, hks exhaust, hks intake, hks camshaft, hks pfc-fcon, hks fcd, hks turbo timer, trilogy injectors, mk1 short shifter, GReddy traditional shift knob, 89 ecu, Hks Boost gauge, innovative wideband A/F gauge.

#28 Tim_C.

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Posted 08 April 2019 - 12:06 AM

I've had a bad igniter box cause over fueling before on my'87. Changed it and the problem went away.
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#29 Ressurect1on

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Posted 08 April 2019 - 05:30 PM

The fact your idle gets richer the longer it runs tells me your coolant temp sensor might be backwards from stock. i would see if i could find any details on stock operation ( does the resistance increase or decrease the hotter it gets)  and compare it to what yours is doing. maybe also make sure there isn't a second sensor for the gauge and you got the connectors swapped onto the wrong temp sender units

#30 Spooled_Starion

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 02:29 AM

View PostRessurect1on, on 08 April 2019 - 05:30 PM, said:

The fact your idle gets richer the longer it runs tells me your coolant temp sensor might be backwards from stock. i would see if i could find any details on stock operation ( does the resistance increase or decrease the hotter it gets)  and compare it to what yours is doing. maybe also make sure there isn't a second sensor for the gauge and you got the connectors swapped onto the wrong temp sender units

I dont rich at idle I actually run rich under boost. Thanks for the suggestion though I'll have to ohm test my cts to see if shes good or bad. It's weird, sometimes she runs great it idle sometimes she runs lean, she can't decide what she wants to do for afr anymore.

Edited by Spooled_Starion, 09 April 2019 - 06:04 PM.

Hks Downpipe, hks exhaust, hks intake, hks camshaft, hks pfc-fcon, hks fcd, hks turbo timer, trilogy injectors, mk1 short shifter, GReddy traditional shift knob, 89 ecu, Hks Boost gauge, innovative wideband A/F gauge.

#31 Spooled_Starion

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 02:45 AM

.

Edited by Spooled_Starion, 09 April 2019 - 02:45 AM.

Hks Downpipe, hks exhaust, hks intake, hks camshaft, hks pfc-fcon, hks fcd, hks turbo timer, trilogy injectors, mk1 short shifter, GReddy traditional shift knob, 89 ecu, Hks Boost gauge, innovative wideband A/F gauge.




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