here it is ,,your 5 spd swap walk thru, with pics

[quikconq]

first off the parts your gonna need

 

transmission with shifter and other goodies

clutch and brake pedals and bracket

clutch master cylinder ,fluid resivor , slave cylinder and line

new clutch disc and pressure plate and throw out bearing,,with alignment tool

flywheel with pilot bearing,and new bolts...can you get away with used bolts,,probably but new ones are fairly inexpensive

a shift boot, the padded material silencer that goes under the shift boot and on top of the metal ringed rubber boot that screws down to the tranny tunnel

the 5spd drive shaft,,the autos are too short

some steel to fab a mount braket

 

 

 

ok we will start here

 

begin to tear out the auto tranny

support your car high enough to get the tranny out from under the car and high enough to be fairly comfortable under there,,,cuz your gonna be there quite a bit

support the car with jack stands as required,,,can there be to many supports??

 

first thing i did was loosen and disconnect the body to manifold water hose and the vac line that is beside it,,,,sothey dont get stretched when letting the motor angle down to remove the tranny

 

remove the wireing at the conections,and the speedo cable,and the shifter selector rod pin

 

remove the dust/inspection cover that is between the tranny and the oil pan to expose the torque conver. bolts

 

remove the torque converter bolts

 

loosen and remove the tranny cooler lines

 

remove the starter

 

remove all but one tranny belhousing bolts

 

support the tranny with a tranny jack ,or floor jack

 

remove the drive shaft bolts,now i left the drive shaft in so not to spill fluid all over ,,,but you could just drain the tranny if you wanted ,,so you didnt have the shaft dangling from the rear of the tranny

 

lift the tranny just to take up some pressure

 

remove the crossmember,,from the body and the tranny

 

ok remove the last tranny belhousing bolt

 

you may have to give the tranny a jerk ,to get to loosen from the motor,,,not to hard tho ,,,especially if your useing a standard floor jack

 

lower the tranny a little at a time ,the motor will angle down slightly when lowering no biggy since you disconcted the hoses earlier,keep checking for things that will get caught or things that was overlooked and needs to be removed ,when lowering ,for one the dip stick tube could be removed ,,not nesesary tho

 

ok it should be out and on the floor

 

 

ok now prep for reinstall of your new 5spd tranny

 

youll have to remove auto flywheel

and the torque convertor to crank bushing some come out easily , some not,,,the easiest way ive found to remove it is to pack wheel bearing grease in the bushing hole and useing a snug fitting dowel and hammer ,,,ill get some pics of this

 

ok now you can put on your standard shift flywheel,,i always use threadlock for flywheel bolts

 

center up your clutch disc onto your flywheel and put your aligment tool thru the disc and into the pilot bearing,,then you can install your pressure plate ,,,again new bolts,,,,its up to you,,and threadlocker too

 

ok install the new throw out bearing in your tranny, on the fork

 

put a rag in the shifter hole and tape it

 

ok you should be ready to put the tranny up into place

 

it may not be easy but youll get it up there,,,put one bolt in there once you get it in place on the dowels and then put in the remaining bolts again i use threadlock on belhousing bolts too

 

temparily put the rear crossmember just to hold up the rear of the tranny so to get rid of the jack

 

at this point i went ahead and installed the 5spd drive shaft

 

next will be the body wor

 

replacing the pedals

remove the auto brake petal ,,,with that outof the way you can make the hole for the clutch master cylinder

unbolt the brake fluid resevior and set it to the side then i drilled a series of holes along the perimeter of the hole knock out then used a angle air grinder with a carbide grinder to smooth out the hole here is wat you get

 

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/000_0062.jpg

 

place the clutch master cylinder upto the hole to mark where your gonna drill for the mounting holes ,,i again used the angle die grinder for that too it fits in there with a small bit in it

 

ok now you can do the pedals them selves first the clutch petal

 

first off the wireing harness might be in your way,,,you have to figure out a way to move it,,,mine was pretty stiff so i used wire to wire it over to the side cowl you can see the wire in the pic

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_0728.jpg

 

hopefully your just moves over out of the way

 

ok with 5sp petal bracket lightly bolted on the clutch petal assemblyhttp://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_0727.jpg

 

put up into place and mark where your gonna weld it

now take a grinder or sander to sand away the paint so to get good welds

 

then put the petal and bracket back up into place and tack weld it,,like this

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_0730.jpg

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_0732.jpg

 

now unbolt and remove the pedal assembly and finish welding the bracket in place

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_0735.jpg

then some paint

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_0739.jpg

 

ok now yourready to bolt the pedal in place

the install the clutch master cyl. as it has the other mounting bolt to accompany the one on the front of the pedal bracket

slide the pedal to master ,pin in place and use a cotter pin to retain it

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_0741.jpg

 

ok now put the brake pedal in place ,and bolting it and repin it

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_0740.jpg

 

ok remount your brake fluid resivour with the clutch resivour on it

hoolup your slave cylinder to the tranny and route your line ,,,and your ready to bleed the clutch line

 

ok now the mount and cross member

i used the old mount and got rid of the rubber portion of it

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_0752.jpg

 

then welded some metal to it to form this ,,,paying attention to tranny finish hieght and bolt location and clearence for the tailshaft of the trannyhttp://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_0759.jpg

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_0756.jpg

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_0753.jpg

then finished mount and cross

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_0760.jpg

 

bolted right up and is good to go,,,there is still some rubber on the ends of the crossmember so this isnt a totally solid system

 

ok now it is the wireing

the plug that went down from the top of the fire wall down to the auto tranny for the reverse lights,,and for the neutral safety switch,,,i used the harness that went all the way down to passenger side of the auto tranny,,so as to have enough wire

ok under the clutch pedal assembly,,you will see a harness mine had a yellow tag on it

in that harness has the same wires that go down to the tranny you only need four of those wires

first off you will have to cut off the wires at the plug so you can pull them thru the harness to the clutch pedal area,,,like this

 

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_0744.jpg

you will see two fat wires and they are black and one has a yellow stripe and the other is black and has a red stripe,,,those two are easy to see.

the smaller wires are a bit harder,,one is red with a blue stripe and the other is blue with a red stripe

the big wires are for the neutral safety switch you can wire that to the clutch switch on your petal assembly and viola you have to have the clutch pedal engaged to start the car

the small wires go to the backup lights ,,,they are the ones with the white wire connector at the tranny end ,,with two wires ,,,connect those and you will have back up lights

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_0745.jpg

you can see the two big wires goin to the clutch switch and the two small wires goin down to the tranny for the back up lights,,,you can tuck them in behind the padding and under the carpet to the console thru the hole for the shifter and to the tranny

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_0743.jpg

 

also hook the other wires and speedo cable and the ground cable

 

ok now the shifter hole

remove the rear section of the console,,then the front section ,,remove the auto shifter ,,,if you havent already,,as it maybe in the way of the 5spd tranny when puttin it in place

now to gauge for cutting the hole place the metal ringed rubber boot over the hole that is already there and mark where you want to cut it,,,cutting the floor towards the front of the car,,,,

now remove the rag that was in the shifter location,,,and put you shifter into place

now put the metal ringed boot in place and screw down with short self tapping screws

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_0748.jpg

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w316/conquest232/100_0749.jpg

 

put the padded silencer on top of the metal ringed boot

replace the auto shift selector that is in the front section of the console with your 5spd shifter boot

and reinstall the console

 

hook up the hoses that was disconnected in the begining

 

pheeeww

and im thinkin that is it

im sure i will be editing it shortly

[quikconq]

thanx to a couple guys here that posted about how they did it,,you made it easier for me

 

i just wanted to put it all together with some pics,,,,,,ill have to find their names to properly thanx them

 

but right now im tired of typing

 

later bryen

 

EDIT::::::::

 

small things like

you will have to remove the tranny lines completely,,and the tranny cooler from the passenger side lower front

[chuck641]

Great post ... I never took the time to make a post as detailed as that, Mine were always little bits here and there.

 

I would like to add a couple things, mainly for those that don't have access to a welder. Also to try and make this thread a "one stop shop" for people doing this swap since quikconqu did such a detailed description with pictures.

 

1) the transmission crossmember: I made a bracket similar to quikconqu when I did my first swap, I however used a piece of 1/4" thick steel channel that I cut to work similar to how his bracket works. I used bolts to connect it to the crossmember and to the tranny mount, I also left the rubber in the mount. The other option for this is to weld 2 tabs (with tapped holes or nuts welded on) onto the frame rails similar to the existing mounts only forward approximately 6" this will allow the install of the stock crossmember just as it was meant to be without any modification to the actual crossmember.

 

 

2) Upper clutch pedal mount: On one of my cars I never even attached that bracket, the bolts through the firewall held it for all the years I drove it. Of course the best option is Welding it, but if that is not possible it will hold without the bracket.

 

3) Shifter hole: You can get away with not cutting the hole larger if you use a wrench to tighten the shifter plate bolts (it is easiest to do this from under the car with the tranny hanging down somewhat before you bolt up the crossmember. There is however room to get a wrench in there with short turns with the tranny bolted up.

 

4) filling tranny fluid: BEFORE installing the shifter: pull the fill plug from the side of the tranny and pour the gear oil into the shifter hole until it comes out of the fill hole on the side of the tranny. Then reinstall the fill plug and install the shifter. this is much easier than trying to pump it into the side of the tranny.

 

EDIT: 9/10/07

I figured I would list all the mitsu part numbers for the various bolts, and how many of each you need, etc...

 

Quantity - Item - Part #

6 - Flywheel Bolt - MD008839

6 - Pressure Plate bolt - MF241251

3 - Pressure plate dowel - MF472404

2 - Release Bearing Clips - MD701242

1 - Clutch fork - MD703275

1 - Crank/flywheel dowel - MD005994

 

Here is another option for bolting in a new tranny mount with no welding:

 

You will also be able to keep the stock rubber bushings on the crossmember.

 

You will need 2 pieces of 1"x1" steel angle about 10.5" long each and 8 bolts w/ washers and 4 nuts.

 

the trans mount is about 6.5" up from where the auto was ... I'll let the pictures do the talking:

 

http://2.6liter.com//files/95/DSC00001.JPG

 

http://2.6liter.com//files/95/DSC00004.JPG

 

http://2.6liter.com//files/95/DSC00006.JPG

 

http://2.6liter.com//files/95/DSC00007.JPG

 

http://2.6liter.com//files/95/DSC00008.JPG

 

Sorry this last pic is blurry, but you can see how there are 2 sets of bolt holes about 6.5" from each-other

 

http://2.6liter.com//files/95/DSC00009.JPG

Edited July 9, 2008 by chuck641

[attack vector]

:shock:

I cannot thank you guys enough for this post!

 

THANK YOU!

 

This really helps me out.

[D_Venable]

Very nice right up quikconq

 

Just to add to the wealth, here are a couple shots of how I mounted the transmisison.

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/TrannyMount2.jpg

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/TrannyMount1.jpg

 

These are sheetmetal boxes my father and I made. They bolt to the tranny tunnel, and are sealed with the window glue to the tunnel. They also have nuts welded to the inside of them.

 

Sorry, but these are the only pics I have of them.

 

This setup has about 24k miles on it so far, and it looks the same as when I did the swap.

 

Derek

[AndyW]

This is the first time I found this sectin! lol I just finished this swap (90% done actualy) And I just winged it with a few helpful hints from a few members here. Its very time consuming to say the least. the wiring part is what had me concerned but you cleared that right up. You do relaize the gas peddles are different as well right? also what did you do about the switch on the gas peddle?

[krazyk59]

This is the first time I found this sectin! lol I just finished this swap (90% done actualy) And I just winged it with a few helpful hints from a few members here. Its very time consuming to say the least. the wiring part is what had me concerned but you cleared that right up. You do relaize the gas peddles are different as well right? also what did you do about the switch on the gas peddle?

i kept the auto gas, and brake pedal.. i modified the part your foot goes on for the brake pedal though as to give enough room inbetween that and the clutch.. all works great

[quikconq]

i just kept the gas pedal,,,

its still goin strong

[krazyk59]

id like to add to this.

 

There is a dowel pin that goes into the end of the crank that keeps the flywheel in place.. YOU NEED THIS DOWEL

 

none of the instructions i found on the swap ever said anything about this.. and now my tranny has to come back out...

the dowels that go on the flywheel and hodl the pressure plate in place need to be there as well

[quikconq]

i dont think 87 and earlier 5 spd cranks have that dowel either

[natzeng]

any idea how much a transmission swap would cost? from auto to manual

[chuck641]

it depends on how much luck you have finding parts. My first swap cost about 250 bucks, I bought a parts car for 100 bucks that had everything I needed then I bought a new clutch for 150. The second swap I just did was a bit more, maybe 350 or so, and that includes a new clutch and new mitsu bolts and clips for the flywheel and other misc. accessories.

[VICE]

So I just broke my first tranny.. Too much HP for stock, it cracked near a bolt. Racing and passing a Camaro on the interstate by the way... Just reading up on some tips to remove and install replacement.. Car is jacked up on stands already..

[chuck641]

Bump...

 

I added in some pics of the trans mount in my post at the beginning of the thread

[SFBMX88]

Bump...

 

I added in some pics of the trans mount in my post at the beginning of the thread

 

Thats funny, I was thinkin the same thing. I think I shouldve used some L shaped steel though. Time for a do over.... I was also thinking of linking the front of those supports to the transmission tunnel. Seems like the way it is now puts more stress on the bolts....

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/sfbmx88vol2/ultraspeed/DSC09796.jpg

[vbrad511]

I did this a few years ago. Here's the little write up I laid out. Bear in mind I swapped a motor and trans together for an auto with a bad motor;

 

I did the swap too, back early in the year. There's quite a bit involved so don't plan on this being a one-weekend project unless you've got a lot of help. The most challenging parts of it were the hole for the clutch master, the wiring (which wasn't too bad), the trans mount, and cutting the shifter hole out. For the clutch hole we used an electricians one inch knock-out cutter. It was a little hard getting up in there, but it worked like a charm. Wait until you've got the motor and trans in place before you cut out the shifter hole, that way you can see exactly where you've gotta cut. Make sure to duct tape over the shifter opening in the trans first. I actually cut mine a little big, intentionally. I'd cut the shifter mount-plate out of my 5-speed car, so I put a bead of sealer around it and used self tappers to secure it into the "new"car. Now all the original shifter boot holes line up just fine. My buddy is an electrician and he had some U-channel (I think that's what it's called), that we ground clean and did some assorted welding on to make the trans mount. The wiring was another trick. On the firewall towards the center of the car you'll find the plug for the trans wiring. Get the service manual for this just to be safe. I actually cut the pigtail off of the trans side of that harness so I wouldn't have to butcher the car's wires. Two wires are for the reverse lights, you can tap into them and use the 5-speed car's wires to run back to the tranny. Two wires are for the nuetral safety switch. I did a little creative wiring here. Since I had the the old "automatic" brake pedal I wan't going to use, I pulled the switch off of it. It's a 4 wire, 2 position switch, meaning one set of wires connected with the pedal up, the other set of wires connected with the pedal down. I then tapped into the auto car's brake switch wiring and found the cruise wires. I was able to splice into them using the 2 appropriate wires, run the other 2 out through the firewall into that harness, and now my cruise will deactivate with the clutch pedal, and I've also added nuetral safety switch in the pedal (never even an option when the car was new). I'm just a shade-tree mechanic at best, but if I can do it, most anybody can, but buy a big can of hand cleaner and a lot of rags, you'll need them. I can take and send some pics if you need. Speaking of digital pics, I did take a bunch while tearing things down, brackets, hoses, wiring, vacuum lines, just to know for sure how it went back together, you should too.

[attack vector]

Finally getting around to doing this.

 

I am rounding up all the parts and I found a good website online to order OEM parts. Everything is pretty straight forward but I'm confused on their description of the slave cylinder. They have 2 different slaves I can choose from.

 

www.oemmitsubishiparts.com

 

This one:

Slave cylinder, w/o intercooler 84-89 $66.27

 

and this one:

Slave cylinder, w/intercooler 84-89 $84.52

 

my car is a 1988 auto and it has an intercooler, but what does the intercooler have to do with the slave cylinder? Unless they are referring to an oil cooler for the trans fluid and just have their lingo mixed up? Still what does that have to do with anything?

 

Can someone please set me straight.

 

EXCELLENT THREAD!

 

Thanks guys

[attack vector]

^

Seriously? Nobody knows the answer to this, or even has a clue as to what they might be talking about with regards to intercooler -vs- non-intercooler? I mean it makes no sense to me... but there's obviously a pretty big difference between the two parts because there's a very real price difference.

[SFBMX88]

Sorry, I have no clue. I just called an order into the parts place and they didnt even mention 2 different slaves. Maybe theyre 2 different brands? Or rebuilt and brand new?

 

Looks like you get a discount there $49.70 and $63.39

Edited July 24, 2008 by SFBMX88

[boostandmuscle]

the non intercooled models (flatbodys 87 and older i think) had a different throw out bearing and slave cylinder than the 88s and 89s did..

the rod length is also different from the slave cylinder to clutch fork

Edited July 24, 2008 by boostandmuscle

[attack vector]

Thanks to both of you guys! Much appreciated. That makes sense.

 

:thumbsup:

[Starquest_Shopper]

As one considering this, I want to thank the thread starter and the others that replied for all their work and info.

 

I found it interesting that Mitsubishi took the time & expense to not only put a different tunnel in the AT cars, and also left off the clutch pedal mounting bracket. I did a similar swap on a MK3 Supra & found the holes were there (rubber plug in the big hole) & threaded for the clutch MC and pedal assembly, so those parts were pure bolt-in. My donor car was 3 years newer than mine also. On the downside, you have to change the cluster since the AT has indicator lights the MT does not have (at least for the years I had).

 

Thanks again for the write-up, this is more work than I wanted to get into so I'll look for a 5-speed car.

Edited August 28, 2008 by Starquest_Shopper

[JohnnyWadd]

i wonder why i cant just relocate the crossmember. guess i am going to find out. i'm not sure i understand how vrab did that wiring and created a neutral safety

[JohnnyWadd]

<!--quoteo(post=755219:date=Jul 9 2008, 01:57 AM:name=chuck641)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (chuck641 @ Jul 9 2008, 01:57 AM) <a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=755219"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->Bump...

 

I added in some pics of the trans mount in my post at the beginning of the thread<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

 

Thats funny, I was thinkin the same thing. I think I shouldve used some L shaped steel though. Time for a do over.... I was also thinking of linking the front of those supports to the transmission tunnel. Seems like the way it is now puts more stress on the bolts....

 

<img src="http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/sfbmx88vol2/ultraspeed/DSC09796.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

 

what are the spacers thre for? u-joint alignment?

[rocknrolla72]

Is there any shop that will do this conversion?