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Prices for tires mounted with no touch installer


jszucs
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Just curious what price per rim you all pay for those who have had tires (with skinny sidewalls 35 series and down) mounted on nice rims you don't want screwd up (hence the no touch machine) are paying.

 

I have only found one place in all the Cleveland area that even has a true no touch machine. Some say they are no touch and still have a peice with pad that rides the rim for mount / demount of tire. This also includes a roadfoce balace (typicly roadforce adds ~$9 to balance price) The place I found wants ~ 30 per rim.

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$16.50

 

the rim has to be touched in one way or another.

 

Yeah I guess if you count the tire touching it, and mounting of rim to machin but a true no touch (momo no touch) installer the machine does not touch the rim for install. Unlike rim clamp machines that run a peice with a pad around the rim for install. I doubt your paying 16.50 for a 35 series and down tire + road force ballence. Typical road force ballence adds $9 each right there. In my situation however I can't have anything ride around the rim lip. They are 4" mirror polished stainless lips and they wrap around the outside edge. They were also fairly pricy so I would rather not have them screwed up. This machine also has the ablity to do rims up to a 28X15 which is HUGE. So I feel pretty confident they won't screw them up.

 

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1269441706/med_gallery_4419_499_32176.jpg

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There obvioulsy have to be some type of touching, but it's not done like the rim clamp one's, nor do the arms go around, mainly only the tire itself is touched. Can't look at you tube at work but think this is what your asking for

 

Feeling pretty confident in the place I found. There new machine will do a 28X15 rim, they do all the local lambo rims and tires, and the guy said he will garontee no scratches at all. They also did not balk at all when they found out they are 35 series which most places CRY about because they are work to get those beeds over.

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I pay $10 mounted and balanced, I just powdercoated mine, so I was SUPER stressed out when getting them changed. If dude knows what he is doing it shouldnt be a problem. I get a discount rate cause I'm there every 2 weeks getting drift spares mounted.
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I doubt your paying 16.50 for a 35 series and down tire + road force ballence.

 

OK well you asked what we are paying for the "mounting" in your opening post "Prices for tires mounted with no touch installer" So i didnt include that. And i wonder what part you doubt? You think i am too high or too low? I pesonally have billed out and done hundreds of low profile tire installs. So i didnt just pull that number out of the air.

 

Price also depends on if you bought the tires and wheels from our shop or if you show up with your internet purchases. Or if you have old tires mounted on the wheels still.

 

In my situation however I can't have anything ride around the rim lip.

 

Are your wheels reverse drop center? If they are the tire will mount from the back. Those pastic blocks that push the bead down can be replaced with a person using a prybar and the pry bar touchs the inner rim not the outer lip wich is better. Those no touch blocks oftern dont work as well in the videos i real life. If a wheel has a shallow drop center the guy needs to coax the tire bead down in there with a prybar and "walk" with the turntable.

 

Those videos the people use the just right tire and wheel combo to make it look good.

 

Something you should know about RFV balancing is that you get your moneys worth if you do it later on. It was a tool for problem solving but now its marketed more. The new wheel and tire combo will come up near perfect on a Road Force Variation test. If thats the case the technician is not gonna air it down and spin the wheel on the tire trying to get it better. The sort of thing the RFV balance fixes doe not happen to your tire and wheel assembly untill you get a few miles on it. Sometime they lube the tire up really good to make it go on easy. Lube stays between the tire bead and wheel and the tire turns on the wheel now you lost your road force match mount position. If you wanna road force match mount run them till there warm once then do it.

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Good shops will air it down and adjust the tire on the rim to get a proper balance. America's Tire down in AZ fixed me up when I said it needed a better balance on one wheel, it wasn't felt until you were hitting 75 to 80. They're usually pretty good at customer service, Schawb's too.

 

-Robert

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OK well you asked what we are paying for the "mounting" in your opening post "Prices for tires mounted with no touch installer" So i didnt include that. And i wonder what part you doubt? You think i am too high or too low? I pesonally have billed out and done hundreds of low profile tire installs. So i didnt just pull that number out of the air.

 

Price also depends on if you bought the tires and wheels from our shop or if you show up with your internet purchases. Or if you have old tires mounted on the wheels still.

 

 

 

Are your wheels reverse drop center? If they are the tire will mount from the back. Those pastic blocks that push the bead down can be replaced with a person using a prybar and the pry bar touchs the inner rim not the outer lip wich is better. Those no touch blocks oftern dont work as well in the videos i real life. If a wheel has a shallow drop center the guy needs to coax the tire bead down in there with a prybar and "walk" with the turntable.

 

Those videos the people use the just right tire and wheel combo to make it look good.

 

Something you should know about RFV balancing is that you get your moneys worth if you do it later on. It was a tool for problem solving but now its marketed more. The new wheel and tire combo will come up near perfect on a Road Force Variation test. If thats the case the technician is not gonna air it down and spin the wheel on the tire trying to get it better. The sort of thing the RFV balance fixes doe not happen to your tire and wheel assembly untill you get a few miles on it. Sometime they lube the tire up really good to make it go on easy. Lube stays between the tire bead and wheel and the tire turns on the wheel now you lost your road force match mount position. If you wanna road force match mount run them till there warm once then do it.

 

16.50 is the cheapest I have ever heard of for a 35 series and down. In the OP I did post for a 35 series and down. I doubt your going to fight a few hours to install and not mark in any way a 305 35 18 for 16.50 each are you? I have never heard below 18 for a 35 series even fairly small skinny one's like a 245 35 16.

 

I did not buy them from them (if I did I would 100% expect install to be included in the price) The rims are brand new, never had a set mounted. The tires are also brand new. I only ever bring loose rims and tires in, even if a previous set was mounted I'll remove, and completely clean the rim and bring in loose rims and tires to be mounted. Only way I ever have tires mounted. I know installers won't waste a few min cleaning the insides let alone a few hours. When I bring you a rim it's clean enough you can lick it.

 

I have a regular guy who does all my installs, he removes old tire (gives rims back and I clean up inside and out). He also typicly just lets me at the machine and I break them loose myself. Then I bring them back and he 0's the rim then matches the heavy point on tire opposit rim heavy spot, spins them up for balence, gets them as close as possible jacking with the tire mount location, then spins them up and adds weight if needed. He's got a few perfect without weight even. Unfortunatly he does not have a super highend machine, and knows the rims I have and that I want no marks what so ever so he refuses to do them. He charges me 15 a wheel for pretty much anything but that's just because were friends and he's doing it on the side, knows I do the clean up, and it's an at his convenience kind of thing.

 

Yes the rims MUST have the tires installed from the back. They cannot be put on there face (atleast not flat the soft center cones for a euro style machine would be perfect) as the lips wrap around the outside edge. Is that what you mean by reverse drop center? The lips are also like 4" wide (see pic above) More then 4" if you count the amount rolled around the outer lip.

 

Yes I know the roadforce is not required but comes with the deal when they mount a performance tire 45 series and down at this place. And it has added $9 per rim in the past when I have had it done. So I figured that into the $30 price also.

 

Basicly this has been the only place I have found that didn't balk at them being 35 series going on 18X9.5 and 18X10.5 rims. They are also willing to garontee no marks what so ever on them. And they have a brand new machine that will do up to a 28X15 rim. Id rather pay and extra $50 to have it done right with no marks what so ever, then pay $66 and have a $400 rim and 200+ tire screwed up. Not saying you would screw them up.... I just can't find anyone who seems compitent in the CLE area. If you know of someone I'm all ears.

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OK did some more research and a reverse drop center is when the indented rib is near the inside lip. These rims are definatly reverse drop center rims as that indention is about 1" off the inside lip of the rim. You couldn't install from the front as the front lips extend slightly over the sidewalls to make it look like your rolling on pure rim.

 

I love them but didn't think they would be this big a PITA. There pretty much just for style, and I plan to just yank them and install a much better performing rim / tire set when I want to drive the car hard.

Edited by jszucs
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There pretty much just for style, and I plan to just yank them and install a much better performing rim / tire set when I want to drive the car hard.

Rear 8's on all four corners is the best of the best with style and performance... ...lol.

 

-Robert

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OK did some more research and a reverse drop center is when the indented rib is near the inside lip. These rims are definatly reverse drop center rims as that indention is about 1" off the inside lip of the rim.

 

 

That means they get installed from the back wich is still ok. Honestly you could "spoon" them on yourself by laying them on a floor / blanket. The tire machine is going to contact the outer polished lip with the rollers or with the clamps.

 

Some wheels have a shipping peice that can also be used during install its like a tupperware lid it pops onto the wheel.

 

$16.50 is the price off the car if you carry in the loose wheels and tires new outta the box . They are all clean and where are not taking up a bay with your car they will get mounted and spin balanced for that price.

 

I doubt your going to fight a few hours to install and not mark in any way a 305 35 18 for 16.50 each are you?

 

Thats the thing, an experienced tire tech will will have the tire mounted and aired up in minutes. Especialy a new tire and wheel combo. Lube the tire up really good and the bottom bead will go on by hand. Then grab a buddy to take place of the plastic blocks , insert a prybar deep in the reverse drop center crevise and hild the tire in the drop center while the turntable spins and it will go on easy.

 

If your fighting if for hours your doing it wrong.

 

If you had a pair of spoon bars and some lube you could mount them at home.

 

Also you can saran wrap the heck out of the front lip so the rim clamp doesnt scratch it. Being reverse drop thats most likey how they will clamp it (the clamps have plastic covers too) They might center post clamp it like in your video but that can mess up the wheel. See in this video they used saran wrap and spooned in on with pry bars while one guy help the bead in the drop center. Kinda redneck and looks scary but that pry bar is actually not touching the outer wheel.

 

This video shows what i mean how the rear bead will just pop right on...

 

Now if those guys had i rim clamp ^^ They would need 2 less guys. And the helper guys in that video where not pushing the bead dont into the drop center very much if they where it would have went on easier

Edited by JohnnyWadd
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he he any man over 15 knew how to do that back in the 50's

we average'd at least one flat a month , some times 1 per week lol

 

Ya back in the days of bias ply and lockrings and bubble balancers. I did a service call and hand mounted a new tire on a 20 inch dodge wheel on the highway. The guy thought it was the coolest thing ever.

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Rear 8's on all four corners is the best of the best with style and performance... ...lol.

 

-Robert

 

I do like the look wiht how much you are tucking them. Id prefer to just run a set for all out performace. Not enough choices in tires for 16 inch rims any more though. Got to go 18's and up now... even 17's are getting scarce.

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$16.50 is the price off the car if you carry in the loose wheels and tires new outta the box . They are all clean and where are not taking up a bay with your car they will get mounted and spin balanced for that price.

 

If your fighting if for hours your doing it wrong.

 

If you had a pair of spoon bars and some lube you could mount them at home.

 

Also you can saran wrap the heck out of the front lip so the rim clamp doesnt scratch it. Being reverse drop thats most likey how they will clamp it (the clamps have plastic covers too) They might center post clamp it like in your video but that can mess up the wheel. See in this video they used saran wrap and spooned in on with pry bars while one guy help the bead in the drop center. Kinda redneck and looks scary but that pry bar is actually not touching the outer wheel.

 

Well your shop would love me because that's the way I always do it, and I clean the rims to like new in and out if used. And I also return with beer when I pick up.

 

I got access to the tools, even a rim clamp mounter (good wheels should not be done on a rim clamp) I don't really want to do it at home as I want the raw rim spun up to find the heavy point, and the tire matched 180 out of that. (I'm very pickey about what I want)

 

Well when you got a tire with carbon kevelar side walls that are so stiff you can stand on the raw tire and it don't deform, you tend to fight with them a bit. I also don't like them being super lubed up as they can slip on eachother then.

 

Yeah I checked out there hardware and they have a soft rubber cone the center can be slipped over (this keeps it off the table) Then they have a non metal bolt that goes though the lug hole to hold in place and a non metal lug to secure. Seems like a high tec setup, Arm can be moved MM by MM set to move around with tire or stationary. Got a LCD screen to see under side so you don't have to bend down ECT. There will be no clamping of this rim, prying from the inside I don't mind it's just that outter lip I care about. Never though about how critical this would make install just feel in love with the big lips.

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