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How to Rebuild an 88/89 KM132 Manual Transmission

STEP BY STEP W/PHOTOS

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#41 kev

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 02:27 PM

You may have to clean up the threads a little of the nut being reused especially around the crimps…get it nice and clean and burr free

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But a little lube on the threads and spin it down…it went this far by hand!Posted Image

Now the tricky part…torqueing this sucker to 181-195 ft-lbs per the manual.   I guess you can go different routes with this.  What I did was buy a crows foot – 1-9/16” was the closest I could find.  You kind of have to drive it down on the nut a little.  But what happens when torqueing is the crows foot expanded and slipped.   Rather than trying to find/construct another tool, I simply tack welded a bar across the crows foot while it was over the nut.

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Now torque her up!   I had to even reinforce my support bar for this!   I took her to the max torque.

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We can crimp now or go back to the last two shift arms.  I’m just going to show the crimping now even though I did the arms first…doesn’t matter.

Crimp your nuts in two places for both the countershaft and main shaft

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#42 kev

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 02:30 PM

Ok, back to the shift arms.   Put in the other lubricated spacer now

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Now lubricate and slide in the last fork

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Lube 3rth/4th shift rod…and the holes it travels thru in the housing.

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Install it…needs to pass thru the holes in all three forks

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Next go for the 5th/reverse…again lubricating the shaft and holes

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We’ll come back to the roll pins.  Lets put on the last bearing

Install the c-clip

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And the bearing

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Using a pole, I drove it down carefully

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#43 kev

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 02:33 PM

Don’t forget the 2nd c clip

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Ok, all we need to do is to pin the shift rods to the forks and we are done with the gear train!

I bought a set of high strength M5x22mm roll pins

What you want to do is to drive them in the forks/rods in the orientation as shown.  This is very critical!  If you drive them in 90 degrees out, the C shape of the roll pin will flex and cause deflection when shifting!

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Oh make sure the holes align in the forks/shafts…slide the shift collars back to neutral if the tranny is still in the locked state from torqueing.
Use a drift punch and drive the pins in

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#44 kev

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 02:36 PM

Last but not least….the ball bearings, etc for the shift rods…

Coat the ball bearings in oil and install them in the three holes in the outside of the housing

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Now the springs…tapered side in first…I was very critical to put all of these items in the same location that they came out from…remember the marked bin earlier?

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Now, put a little gasket maker on the threads of the set screws and install them

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Set them to the exact same position that you removed them from.  You can double check the values from the manual to see if they are in the approximate range if you’d like…mine were a little off but I liked how it shifted prior so I set them right back to where they were.

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Now fill the holes with RTV

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#45 kev

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 02:39 PM

Little gasket maker on the flange and the gasket

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Ok…set her aside while we focus on the extension housing

Extension Housing Assembly

Starting point…all cleaned really good (and in my case painted)

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Here is how clean it should be on the inside

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Inspect that shift arm good!

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Now clean up the flanges…Note that I covered the areas to minimize debris

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#46 kev

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 02:42 PM

Recleaned again and ready to move on

Oil the shifter rod good!

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Flip over and install the rear seal.  I added a little RTV to the outside.

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Cleaned up

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#47 kev

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 02:44 PM

Oil the inside good

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Oil the holes for the shift rods

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Ok taking a break, switch over to this sucker.   I don’t think I showed removing this little lever thing earlier, but if you did remove yours…here is how to reinstall

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Flanges again:

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#48 kev

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 02:47 PM

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Take a dab of RTV on the bolts

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Cleaned up

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#49 kev

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 02:50 PM

Speedo Assembly

I had to buy both seals for the speedo…I just went thru Mitsu.  And some more roll pins..high strength M3 x 16mm

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Make sure your parts are all nice and clean

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Oil your inner seal

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And put it in

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Oil your rod slightly and install

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Install the roll pin in the housing

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#50 kev

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 02:53 PM

Slide on the gear and install the last roll pin

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Lube the outer o-ring and install

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FINAL ASSEMBLY

OK, just about done

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Take your shifter rod and go to the right and back…just like during disassembly

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And slide the extension housing into position while holding the rod

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Now engage the rod into the forks of the shifter arms…you’ll feel it

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Install your bolts and tighten then to spec..11-15 ft-lbs

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Don’t forget the tabs for the reverse light switch wire..I almost did

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#51 kev

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 02:56 PM

Lube these suckers and install…make sure you are putting them in the correct sides

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The spring

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Other side

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You’ll see them contact that flange on the rod

RTV on the bolts

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Install and torque to spec..22-30 ft-lbs

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#52 kev

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 03:00 PM

Now is a good time to check your operation!   Could even shift to all gears if you like

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Don’t forget about this last steel ball and spring

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Now lube up that o-ring and gear on the speedo and install

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So the speedo gear housing is actually a cam..you need to rotate it to engage the splines.  You’ll feel it couple.  Or just orient it with the notch on the outside in the position I show

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Line up your slots and install the retainer.  

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#53 kev

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 03:03 PM

Last gasket

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And final housing

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Couple of final items to install.

New gasket for the fill plug

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Clutch fork…you know how to do this...I'm going to skip a few pics here...

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#54 kev

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 03:05 PM

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Added some RTV to the flange and installed the steel protector

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Last but not least; the pan with new o-ring (lubed) and new gasket for the drain plug

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There you have it!

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Everything is installed except the reverse light switch…if you look closely you can see that I have a temporary rubber cap in its place.   I didn’t put that in until the tranny was in the car.  Don’t forget the ball bearing that goes in front of the switch!

#55 kev

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 03:06 PM

CONCLUSION

In all, I hope this helps.  I tried to be very detailed and shared my screw ups/failures in hopes that you too can see/learn from them without having to go thru the same path.  In all, this was a fun rebuild.   It was an expensive rebuild due to the parts needed and the rarity of parts available for our vehicles…but heck we are used to that!

The cumbersome part of it was the time it took…mostly waiting for parts and fabricating my puller tool.   I really wish I wouldn’t have lost that one group of photos but I hope my explanation and use of assembly photos was sufficient.   For anyone performing this task, please help us out by snapping a few pics in the area that I missed…mainly in the removal of the input shaft/bearing and removal of the center bearing.  
Again if you are performing this rebuild, study this thread and the manuals first prior to initiating.  Don’t rely on only my pics.  Who knows I may have missed an important photo…not to mention that I’m writing up this process after it being a full year or so since I actually did it.   Be thinking and understanding of what you are doing, not just following the procedure I outlined.   Also, I only showed focus on the worm or degraded items that I found upon inspection on my rebuild.  Study every component looking for wear or flaws and make the determination if you need to replace more parts…or possibly even abort from the rebuild and find a replacement unit.

As always please feel free to send me PMs about ways you did things differently from me, more efficiently, etc.   Also, if you something that I did that was downright wrong…please let me know!   I would not be offended in the least way and don’t want to convey the wrong process to other members.  

kev

#56 importwarrior

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 05:10 PM

Any comments or process questions PM Kev or post here.

http://www.starquest...howtopic=148679

Great post Kev!

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