Jump to content



Rear axle rebuilt with pics:


  • Please log in to reply
12 replies to this topic

#1 Lance_S

Lance_S

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,098 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Michigan
  • Interests:Family, Church, Guns, Cars, Audio/Video
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 28 December 2011 - 07:46 PM

The following is a how to on a rear axle rebuild:

You will need to start by pulling the axle housing from the car.  First jack up the car, pull the tire, caliper, rotor, small retainer bolt under the rotor on the bottom of the axle housing and 2 top bolts that hold the strut to the axle housing.  Drive a small wedge into the strut housing seam to open it up enough to allow the axle housing to drop once the main retainer bolt is expelled.

The following are some tips on extracting the main axle housing bolt.  They can be a little tough to remove.


1) Get some PB blaster and hose all of the sections of the bolt that you have access to.
2) Make sure you have the small bolt out of the bottom, it's a 12mm on both ends.
3) Get an impact gun if you can borrow one, it will make it way easier to get the large bolt out.
4) Drive the nut off, use a breaker bar to break it loose.
5) Compress the spring. If you don't all of the pressure that is pushing down on the axle housing shaft will make it more difficult to remove.
6) If you don't have a spring compressor put a jack under the rear A-arm and lift it until the tire is coming off the ground, then get a snap strap, wrap it around the top and bottom of the spring itself and crank on the handle to get the strap as tight as possible. Then put the jack under the rear diff and lift it off the ground, that will take the weight off the lower A-arm.
7) Get a friend to help you.
8) Get a nylon hammer, and gently smack the end of the bolt WHILE spinning the bolt in reverse with the impact gun.
9) Once you get it started, take a pry bar and pry against the big washer again WHILE spinning the bolt in reverse with the impact gun.
10) Continue until it's out, keep dousing with PB as you go. When you can get any leverage anymore because the bolt is starting to work it's way out, put a 2x4 in between the pry bar and the lower caliper mounting bracket and keep going. Continue till it's out.
11)  If you have to smack the bolt itself, put the nut on and drive it down to the top of the bolt.  That way you won't damage the threads.

There is no majic, lots of blood, sweat and tears. I did it myself today, would have been much faster with a helper.

Edited by Lance_S, 28 December 2011 - 08:10 PM.

Hardpipes, MAFT, GM MAS, 3" DP, 2.5" exhaust, 950/1050 Trilogy injectors, K&N filter, Machined and balance flywheel 23 lbs, short shift, 88/89 tranny, HD ACT clutch, DSM EVO3 S16g ported (21 psi), polished and clipped, NJV head (ported), larger SS Valves, Schneider springs, Ajusa HG, Adjustable FPR, MBC, BOV, MSD coil, Walbro 255, ABS, EGR and balance shaft elim, 88/89 ECU, UEGO 02, new or rebuilt everything.

My feedback:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=127993





#2 Lance_S

Lance_S

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,098 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Michigan
  • Interests:Family, Church, Guns, Cars, Audio/Video
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 28 December 2011 - 08:15 PM

Once you have the axle housing out, you will need to releave the rear axle nut.  It's tight, so you will need a 1/2 impact wrench and about 125 psi.  That is a 30 mm nut.  You can also use a 1 3/16 if you are in a jam, it's a close fit.  Put plenty of PB blaster on it and let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes before you go after it.  It will look like this when you are done:

Posted Image

Posted Image


Posted Image
Hardpipes, MAFT, GM MAS, 3" DP, 2.5" exhaust, 950/1050 Trilogy injectors, K&N filter, Machined and balance flywheel 23 lbs, short shift, 88/89 tranny, HD ACT clutch, DSM EVO3 S16g ported (21 psi), polished and clipped, NJV head (ported), larger SS Valves, Schneider springs, Ajusa HG, Adjustable FPR, MBC, BOV, MSD coil, Walbro 255, ABS, EGR and balance shaft elim, 88/89 ECU, UEGO 02, new or rebuilt everything.

My feedback:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=127993

#3 Lance_S

Lance_S

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,098 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Michigan
  • Interests:Family, Church, Guns, Cars, Audio/Video
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 28 December 2011 - 08:21 PM

With the nut off, you will remove the axle collar next.  One of mine just slide right off, the other needed some gentle persuation.  Use a poly hammer if you have to give it some attention.  Do not hit the dust cover around the base of the housing or you will bent it.

Posted Image

Next, lay the axle on the ground, put the nut back on the axle and use a poly mallet to smack the axle out of the housing.

Posted Image

It shouldn't take too much to get it out but if it's bound up, you will have to continue to hit it.  Be very careful not to mess up the threads on the axle or you will have to replace the axle, keep the nut on there.

Posted Image


Just like that!

Posted Image
Hardpipes, MAFT, GM MAS, 3" DP, 2.5" exhaust, 950/1050 Trilogy injectors, K&N filter, Machined and balance flywheel 23 lbs, short shift, 88/89 tranny, HD ACT clutch, DSM EVO3 S16g ported (21 psi), polished and clipped, NJV head (ported), larger SS Valves, Schneider springs, Ajusa HG, Adjustable FPR, MBC, BOV, MSD coil, Walbro 255, ABS, EGR and balance shaft elim, 88/89 ECU, UEGO 02, new or rebuilt everything.

My feedback:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=127993

#4 Lance_S

Lance_S

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,098 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Michigan
  • Interests:Family, Church, Guns, Cars, Audio/Video
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 28 December 2011 - 08:25 PM

The axle will come out with the rear bearing attached to the base and the spacer.  Pull the spacer off the shaft, it should slide off easily.  Clean the spacer and look for warpage or damage.

Posted Image


Spacer

Posted Image

Dirty Shaft:

Posted Image

Posted Image
Hardpipes, MAFT, GM MAS, 3" DP, 2.5" exhaust, 950/1050 Trilogy injectors, K&N filter, Machined and balance flywheel 23 lbs, short shift, 88/89 tranny, HD ACT clutch, DSM EVO3 S16g ported (21 psi), polished and clipped, NJV head (ported), larger SS Valves, Schneider springs, Ajusa HG, Adjustable FPR, MBC, BOV, MSD coil, Walbro 255, ABS, EGR and balance shaft elim, 88/89 ECU, UEGO 02, new or rebuilt everything.

My feedback:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=127993

#5 Lance_S

Lance_S

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,098 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Michigan
  • Interests:Family, Church, Guns, Cars, Audio/Video
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 28 December 2011 - 08:30 PM

Next start your cleanup on the shaft.  I don't have a wire wheel so I use the next best thing, a cheap version on a drill.  I like to squirt some PB blaster on the part while brushing.

Posted Image


Posted Image

Cleaned up:

Posted Image
Hardpipes, MAFT, GM MAS, 3" DP, 2.5" exhaust, 950/1050 Trilogy injectors, K&N filter, Machined and balance flywheel 23 lbs, short shift, 88/89 tranny, HD ACT clutch, DSM EVO3 S16g ported (21 psi), polished and clipped, NJV head (ported), larger SS Valves, Schneider springs, Ajusa HG, Adjustable FPR, MBC, BOV, MSD coil, Walbro 255, ABS, EGR and balance shaft elim, 88/89 ECU, UEGO 02, new or rebuilt everything.

My feedback:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=127993

#6 Lance_S

Lance_S

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,098 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Michigan
  • Interests:Family, Church, Guns, Cars, Audio/Video
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 28 December 2011 - 08:39 PM

Next you will want to turn your attention back to the axle housing.  There you will find the housing with an inner bearing and a seal pressed inside.  The following is how NOT to remove the seal.

AGAIN, DO NOT USE A SEAL REMOVER.
Posted Image

If you do, you will end up with a housing that looks like this!

Posted Image

So please learn from my mistakes!  Don't use a seal puller.  Good thing I had an extra housing!!!
So the proper way to remove the seal is by turning the housing over and pressing the bearing and seal out in one shot.
Hardpipes, MAFT, GM MAS, 3" DP, 2.5" exhaust, 950/1050 Trilogy injectors, K&N filter, Machined and balance flywheel 23 lbs, short shift, 88/89 tranny, HD ACT clutch, DSM EVO3 S16g ported (21 psi), polished and clipped, NJV head (ported), larger SS Valves, Schneider springs, Ajusa HG, Adjustable FPR, MBC, BOV, MSD coil, Walbro 255, ABS, EGR and balance shaft elim, 88/89 ECU, UEGO 02, new or rebuilt everything.

My feedback:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=127993

#7 Lance_S

Lance_S

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,098 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Michigan
  • Interests:Family, Church, Guns, Cars, Audio/Video
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 28 December 2011 - 08:44 PM

But before you do that, push the dust cover off of gently.  It wont' take much to get it off but it helps to clean the area up first, like so:

Cleaned all the way around:

Posted Image

Now release the dust cover with a punch.  Gently on one side, then the other.  If should come off easily:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Edited by Lance_S, 28 December 2011 - 09:46 PM.

Hardpipes, MAFT, GM MAS, 3" DP, 2.5" exhaust, 950/1050 Trilogy injectors, K&N filter, Machined and balance flywheel 23 lbs, short shift, 88/89 tranny, HD ACT clutch, DSM EVO3 S16g ported (21 psi), polished and clipped, NJV head (ported), larger SS Valves, Schneider springs, Ajusa HG, Adjustable FPR, MBC, BOV, MSD coil, Walbro 255, ABS, EGR and balance shaft elim, 88/89 ECU, UEGO 02, new or rebuilt everything.

My feedback:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=127993

#8 Lance_S

Lance_S

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,098 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Michigan
  • Interests:Family, Church, Guns, Cars, Audio/Video
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 28 December 2011 - 08:47 PM

Now that the dust collar is off, find a smooth spot to lay the housing down so you can punch out the bearing and the seal all in one shot.  I used a 1 1/4 deep well socket up side down:

Posted Image


Posted Image


Posted Image


Posted Image
Hardpipes, MAFT, GM MAS, 3" DP, 2.5" exhaust, 950/1050 Trilogy injectors, K&N filter, Machined and balance flywheel 23 lbs, short shift, 88/89 tranny, HD ACT clutch, DSM EVO3 S16g ported (21 psi), polished and clipped, NJV head (ported), larger SS Valves, Schneider springs, Ajusa HG, Adjustable FPR, MBC, BOV, MSD coil, Walbro 255, ABS, EGR and balance shaft elim, 88/89 ECU, UEGO 02, new or rebuilt everything.

My feedback:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=127993

#9 Lance_S

Lance_S

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,098 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Michigan
  • Interests:Family, Church, Guns, Cars, Audio/Video
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 28 December 2011 - 08:52 PM

Excellent, now the axle housing is completely free from all parts.  Time to clean:

Posted Image

Posted Image

I used a soft wire brush on a the drill.  I also used quite a bit of brake cleaner.  

Run your finger over all of the inside edges and running surfaces to make sure there aren't any bumps
or gouges that you might not be able to see with your eye.

Posted Image


I found one here.  I took a file to it to clean it up.

Posted Image

Posted Image
Hardpipes, MAFT, GM MAS, 3" DP, 2.5" exhaust, 950/1050 Trilogy injectors, K&N filter, Machined and balance flywheel 23 lbs, short shift, 88/89 tranny, HD ACT clutch, DSM EVO3 S16g ported (21 psi), polished and clipped, NJV head (ported), larger SS Valves, Schneider springs, Ajusa HG, Adjustable FPR, MBC, BOV, MSD coil, Walbro 255, ABS, EGR and balance shaft elim, 88/89 ECU, UEGO 02, new or rebuilt everything.

My feedback:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=127993

#10 Lance_S

Lance_S

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,098 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Michigan
  • Interests:Family, Church, Guns, Cars, Audio/Video
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 28 December 2011 - 09:11 PM

I wish I had an easy answer on how to remove the rear bearings from the axle shaft but I don't.  This is a tuffy, which actually, is where I ended up going. lol.  I just didn't have the tools.  The dust collar sits pretty tight up against the rear bearing making it very difficult to get anything underneath it or to grasp it.  I ended up realizing I just didn't have the tools for this.  So I took my new bearings with me and they pressed off the old ones and pressed on the new ones.  $60.00 later, I had new bearings on my axle shaft.  Yes, it's highway robbery and you may find a place that can do it cheaper but that was my option so it was what it was.

Posted Image


Thing of beauty:

Posted Image

Now BEFORE you slide the new axle shaft back into its housing let's first install that new outside bearing
and seal.  The reason it that the axles shaft gets in our way.  You can do the shaft first but it will be pro-
truding through the opening your are trying to work in.

Lay the housing down on a flat surface, I put a rag underneath the housing so the it protects the rim of the
housing on the side that is on the pavement or work bench.  These are sealed bearings, unlike the ones I
pulled from the original housing, so you don't have to pack nearly as much grease in there.  For the outer
bearing (the smaller one) that we are going to install now, I put a small bit inside the race area to help the
bearing slide into place easier.

Place the new bearing in it's place and press it in flat by hand as far as possible.  It's important to get a good
flat start on the installation of the new bearing.  Then place the old bearing on top of the new bearing.  We are
going to use the old bearing as a nice flat pushing surface to protect the new bearing.  You can just hammer it
home with a socket but this way, you will distribute the weight of the press as it goes in.  If you are like me, you don't have a bearing installation tool for this size bearing (most people don't).

Posted Image

New bearing started by hand, old bearing on top to protect it.  On the second go round I even put a
piece of paper towel between the new and old to make sure no small particles of dirt didn't fall into the
area.

Posted Image

The 1 1/4 inch deep well matches the inner race of the bearing pretty well.  Gently smack with a dead
blow or ball peen hammer.  Frequently lift the old bearing off and make sure you are going in square.
If you don't, you can wedge it and game over.  Do this slowly, take your time and make sure it's perfectly
square going in.  To see if your down all the way, just look through the other side, you should see the
bearing butt up against the lip inside the housing by looking through the opposite end.

Posted Image

done and in:

Posted Image

Next comes the seal.  Basically the same routine.

Posted Image

Put a little grease on the inside and outside ring to help it seat easier.  Put the old bearing over the top,
and gently hit it home.

Posted Image


Posted Image

Edited by Lance_S, 28 December 2011 - 09:50 PM.

Hardpipes, MAFT, GM MAS, 3" DP, 2.5" exhaust, 950/1050 Trilogy injectors, K&N filter, Machined and balance flywheel 23 lbs, short shift, 88/89 tranny, HD ACT clutch, DSM EVO3 S16g ported (21 psi), polished and clipped, NJV head (ported), larger SS Valves, Schneider springs, Ajusa HG, Adjustable FPR, MBC, BOV, MSD coil, Walbro 255, ABS, EGR and balance shaft elim, 88/89 ECU, UEGO 02, new or rebuilt everything.

My feedback:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=127993

#11 Lance_S

Lance_S

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,098 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Michigan
  • Interests:Family, Church, Guns, Cars, Audio/Video
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 28 December 2011 - 09:23 PM

Next we are going to prep the housing for reassembly.  The mating surfaces are all beat up after years of abuse.  Both side of the spacer weren't even close to flat, neither were the housing ends because I had to drive a wedge in between to get them apart.  This is the time to got through everything and clean and file what needs to be cleaned and filed.

Dirty dust collar:
Posted Image

Clean dust collar next to the dirty one:

Posted Image

Posted Image

You may find some raised marks or lips, make sure to run a flat file over the face so that the mating
surfaces are square and will meet properly.

Posted Image

Posted Image

The face of the surface was rounded and had a groove in it.  Don't be excessive, there are tolerances
that need to be respected but the nut will tighten them down in the end.  A proper mating surface to the
face of the bearing is important and there are 4 of them.

Posted Image

Cleaned up:

Posted Image

Yes, even the washers:  Dirty one on the right.

Posted Image
Hardpipes, MAFT, GM MAS, 3" DP, 2.5" exhaust, 950/1050 Trilogy injectors, K&N filter, Machined and balance flywheel 23 lbs, short shift, 88/89 tranny, HD ACT clutch, DSM EVO3 S16g ported (21 psi), polished and clipped, NJV head (ported), larger SS Valves, Schneider springs, Ajusa HG, Adjustable FPR, MBC, BOV, MSD coil, Walbro 255, ABS, EGR and balance shaft elim, 88/89 ECU, UEGO 02, new or rebuilt everything.

My feedback:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=127993

#12 Lance_S

Lance_S

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,098 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Michigan
  • Interests:Family, Church, Guns, Cars, Audio/Video
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 28 December 2011 - 09:39 PM

Now we are ready to install the axle shaft.  Just place the edge of the housing face down on a raised block.
Gently place the axle into the housing and hit the back of the axle with a ball peen hammer.  The round end
mates up with the indent in the axle.  It shouldn't take much pressure to push it home.  The nut will pull it as
well so don't go crazy.  There will be a visible gap between the bearing housing and the axle shaft.  About 1/8
inch.

Now we are ready to install the cleaned dust ring.  Put the dust ring on the housing back into it's original place.  
Then take the 4 or 6 bolt collet, flip it upside down and use it to push the dust collar back into it's position.
Be carefull, the dust collar is fragile and can easily be bent.

Posted Image

Place a piece of wood or something soft as to not hurt your mounting face, then gently hit it with a
Poly hammer, it won't take much to push it back into place.

Posted Image


Posted Image

Lube the spline before you put the axle collar back in, make sure the inside of the seal is greased too:

Posted Image



Posted Image

Face is filed and cleaned, then brake fluid cleaned and blown with a compressor:

Posted Image

Cleaned with wire brush and brake cleaned.  Mating surface filed flat and cleaned.  Also check the
edges and make sure there are no raised edges.

Posted Image

The FSM says to replace that nut.  I didn't but I did use lots of blue locktight!  Then I hit the nut with
the 1/2 inch impact gun and tightened it back up.  The FSM says 180 ft. lbs.  I didn't have a vice to put
the assembly in so I will recheck it when get it back in the car.

Posted Image

I cleaned the face of the stud surface as well.  It was rusty and needed a good going over.  I also
cleaned the threads.


Posted Image
Hardpipes, MAFT, GM MAS, 3" DP, 2.5" exhaust, 950/1050 Trilogy injectors, K&N filter, Machined and balance flywheel 23 lbs, short shift, 88/89 tranny, HD ACT clutch, DSM EVO3 S16g ported (21 psi), polished and clipped, NJV head (ported), larger SS Valves, Schneider springs, Ajusa HG, Adjustable FPR, MBC, BOV, MSD coil, Walbro 255, ABS, EGR and balance shaft elim, 88/89 ECU, UEGO 02, new or rebuilt everything.

My feedback:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=127993

#13 Lance_S

Lance_S

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,098 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Michigan
  • Interests:Family, Church, Guns, Cars, Audio/Video
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 28 December 2011 - 09:59 PM

Reassemble in reverse order.  Make sure the main bolt is free from rust and is completely covered in a film of grease.  Torque everything to FSM specs found at www.starquestgarage.com  under service manual, 1988.

Mods, will you please clean up the thread and moved it over to FAQ's?

Thanks,

Lance
Hardpipes, MAFT, GM MAS, 3" DP, 2.5" exhaust, 950/1050 Trilogy injectors, K&N filter, Machined and balance flywheel 23 lbs, short shift, 88/89 tranny, HD ACT clutch, DSM EVO3 S16g ported (21 psi), polished and clipped, NJV head (ported), larger SS Valves, Schneider springs, Ajusa HG, Adjustable FPR, MBC, BOV, MSD coil, Walbro 255, ABS, EGR and balance shaft elim, 88/89 ECU, UEGO 02, new or rebuilt everything.

My feedback:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=127993




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users