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AtlanticBlue's Restoration

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#21 techboy

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 10:14 AM

I have a spare engine I purchased years ago that looked almost exactly like yours.  It was a low mileage engine, but it had sat for like 11 or 12 years with a cracked head, so all the water and coolant had leaked down into the cylinders, puddled, and rusted fast over the years.  I had do exactly like Resurrection said, I took the crank out of the bottom, spun the engine back over, used a slightly modified 2x4 and a 5lb hammer and was able to knock the pistons/rods out the bottom.  They were trash till I was done, but the block I still have to this day, I plan to build it at some point.  I gave the walls a quick hone and they cleaned up pretty well despite all the rust.  It'll most likely have to bored over, but it's definitely usable.  Hopefully the same happens for you.

Edited by techboy, 17 January 2020 - 03:12 PM.

1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#22 TexasQuest

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 11:20 AM

View Posttechboy, on 17 January 2020 - 10:14 AM, said:

I had purchased a spare engine I purchased years ago that looked almost exactly like yours.  It was a low mileage engine, but it had sat for like 11 or 12 years with a cracked head, so all the water and coolant had leaked down into the cylinders, puddled, and rusted fast over the years.  I had do exactly like Resurrection said, I took the crank out of the bottom, spun the engine back over, used a slightly modified 2x4 and a 5lb hammer and was able to knock the pistons/rods out the bottom.  They were trash till I was done, but the block I still have to this day, I plan to build it at some point.  I gave the walls a quick hone and they cleaned up pretty well despite all the rust.  It'll most likely have to bored over, but it's definitely usable.  Hopefully the same happens for you.
That's good to know. I have a spare rusty block that is seized up at the moment I plan to build.
88 Fiji Blue -TSi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, SPA fuel regulator, Hallman boost controller


View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

<SOS> http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/
<SQ Garage> http://www.starquestgarage.com/

#23 AtlanticBlue87

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 11:52 AM

View Posttechboy, on 17 January 2020 - 10:14 AM, said:

I had purchased a spare engine I purchased years ago that looked almost exactly like yours.  It was a low mileage engine, but it had sat for like 11 or 12 years with a cracked head, so all the water and coolant had leaked down into the cylinders, puddled, and rusted fast over the years.  I had do exactly like Resurrection said, I took the crank out of the bottom, spun the engine back over, used a slightly modified 2x4 and a 5lb hammer and was able to knock the pistons/rods out the bottom.  They were trash till I was done, but the block I still have to this day, I plan to build it at some point.  I gave the walls a quick hone and they cleaned up pretty well despite all the rust.  It'll most likely have to bored over, but it's definitely usable.  Hopefully the same happens for you.

Definitely good information. I have a pretty decent block that I think I'll use (If I stay with the G54b) but I may try to save this one too based on your experience! I'm a bit busy early this weekend but I'm hoping to get some time to continue disassembly on Sunday.
1987 Atlantic Blue Conquest - To swap or not to swap?
1987 Black Flatty Automatic - Organ Donor
Daily: 2013 Accord Sport 6MT
Other Fun Car: 1988 Corvette Convertible
POS Parts Getter: 1989 Ford F-150 5.0

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I'm a Mechanical Engineer, wiring scares me! :D

#24 techboy

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 03:10 PM

If you're taking it to a machine shop, they'll be able to tell you whether the cylinder walls are usable or not.  If they are, pull the freeze plugs, have the whole block washed and decked and you'll be amazed.  It'll look like new.

EDIT:  You probably know this already, but that flatty that you bought - the 12A turbo on that car is slightly different than the turbo that was on the widebody intercooled cars.  I'm just letting you know b/c when I was noob years back my car had a bad turbo so I bought a replacement 12A off of eBay and it was from a flatty and I couldn't use it.

Edited by techboy, 17 January 2020 - 03:14 PM.

1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#25 AtlanticBlue87

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 03:18 PM

View Posttechboy, on 17 January 2020 - 03:10 PM, said:

EDIT:  You probably know this already, but that flatty that you bought - the 12A turbo on that car is slightly different than the turbo that was on the widebody intercooled cars.  I'm just letting you know b/c when I was noob years back my car had a bad turbo so I bought a replacement 12A off of eBay and it was from a flatty and I couldn't use it.

I actually have someone interested in the turbo from my flatty, and I do have a usable turbo for the Fatty. All I need to do now is make a powertrain decision and figure out what I'm using! I suppose it will somewhat depend on what I can learn from this flooded engine, my spare block is basically bare, I just have JE pistons and a crank that I'd like to have magnafluxed.

Edited by AtlanticBlue87, 17 January 2020 - 03:18 PM.

1987 Atlantic Blue Conquest - To swap or not to swap?
1987 Black Flatty Automatic - Organ Donor
Daily: 2013 Accord Sport 6MT
Other Fun Car: 1988 Corvette Convertible
POS Parts Getter: 1989 Ford F-150 5.0

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I'm a Mechanical Engineer, wiring scares me! :D

#26 Preludedude

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Posted 18 January 2020 - 10:03 PM

....

Edited by Preludedude, 18 January 2020 - 10:04 PM.


#27 AtlanticBlue87

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Posted 19 January 2020 - 09:03 PM

Still can't get the engine free after soaking the tops of the pistons and crank/connecting rods in PB blaster for 4 days, so tomorrow I'll take the caps off to see what I'm looking at.
1987 Atlantic Blue Conquest - To swap or not to swap?
1987 Black Flatty Automatic - Organ Donor
Daily: 2013 Accord Sport 6MT
Other Fun Car: 1988 Corvette Convertible
POS Parts Getter: 1989 Ford F-150 5.0

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I'm a Mechanical Engineer, wiring scares me! :D

#28 AtlanticBlue87

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Posted 22 January 2020 - 08:05 PM

Got the connecting rod caps off today, and as expected, there is a fair amount of scoring and some sludge was stuck in some of the oiling holes. All pictures are taken after giving parts a quick wipe with a clean shop towel.

Posted Image

Cylinder 1:

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Cylinder 2:

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Cylinder 3: By far the worst scoring of all, with a significant amount of sludge in the oiling passage.

Posted Image

Posted Image

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Cylinder 4:

Posted Image

Posted Image
1987 Atlantic Blue Conquest - To swap or not to swap?
1987 Black Flatty Automatic - Organ Donor
Daily: 2013 Accord Sport 6MT
Other Fun Car: 1988 Corvette Convertible
POS Parts Getter: 1989 Ford F-150 5.0

Quote

I'm a Mechanical Engineer, wiring scares me! :D

#29 TexasQuest

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Posted 23 January 2020 - 05:11 PM

How did you get the rod caps loose from the crank after unbolting them? Mine are on there super tight.
88 Fiji Blue -TSi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, SPA fuel regulator, Hallman boost controller


View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

<SOS> http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/
<SQ Garage> http://www.starquestgarage.com/

#30 Preludedude

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Posted 23 January 2020 - 08:35 PM

View PostTexasQuest, on 23 January 2020 - 05:11 PM, said:

How did you get the rod caps loose from the crank after unbolting them? Mine are on there super tight.

Probably tapped studs with hammer to seperate from the rod....

#31 AtlanticBlue87

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Posted 23 January 2020 - 09:20 PM

View PostPreludedude, on 23 January 2020 - 08:35 PM, said:

Probably tapped studs with hammer to seperate from the rod....

Exactly, I just put a wood block between the cap and the hammer to make sure I didn't damage anything!

Edited by AtlanticBlue87, 23 January 2020 - 09:20 PM.

1987 Atlantic Blue Conquest - To swap or not to swap?
1987 Black Flatty Automatic - Organ Donor
Daily: 2013 Accord Sport 6MT
Other Fun Car: 1988 Corvette Convertible
POS Parts Getter: 1989 Ford F-150 5.0

Quote

I'm a Mechanical Engineer, wiring scares me! :D

#32 TexasQuest

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Posted 23 January 2020 - 11:20 PM

View PostAtlanticBlue87, on 23 January 2020 - 09:20 PM, said:

Exactly, I just put a wood block between the cap and the hammer to make sure I didn't damage anything!
Thank you. I just wanted to make sure before I go whacking away lol.
88 Fiji Blue -TSi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, SPA fuel regulator, Hallman boost controller


View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

<SOS> http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/
<SQ Garage> http://www.starquestgarage.com/

#33 AtlanticBlue87

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Posted 23 January 2020 - 11:43 PM

Continuing with the engine tear down, today the crankshaft and the #1 and #2 pistons came out. Unfortunately, #3 and #4 are held in by some pretty gnarly rust.

Top of the engine after removing #1 and #2:
Posted Image

Cylinder #1: Kind of a blurry picture, but it looks like this is all surface rust that will clean up easily.

Posted Image

Cylinder #2: There's definitely some sort of crud on this wall, I'll try some parts cleaner to see if it comes up or not, it didn't seem to want to wipe up with just a paper towel.

Posted Image

Rust in #3: I was unable to push the piston up and out from the rust toward the top of the cylinder, here I've moved the piston back down to show the rust.

Posted Image
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Rust in #4: Major scoring and significant rust is holding the piston in, this is the worst of all 4!

Posted Image
Posted Image

This one will need a lot of time at the machine shop to get in buildable condition again! As a side note, don't do what I did and think you'll just tap the pistons down in the cylinder to free them up before removing them. I may have destroyed a oil squirter or 2 after the whole "tapping" thing didn't work! :blink:
1987 Atlantic Blue Conquest - To swap or not to swap?
1987 Black Flatty Automatic - Organ Donor
Daily: 2013 Accord Sport 6MT
Other Fun Car: 1988 Corvette Convertible
POS Parts Getter: 1989 Ford F-150 5.0

Quote

I'm a Mechanical Engineer, wiring scares me! :D

#34 tsi_tom

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Posted Yesterday, 07:49 AM

I would keep soaking it.  I heard ATF works, but I haven't tried.  Block seems good to me.
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Stock injection system

My restoration project: The Missouri Project

#35 AtlanticBlue87

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Posted Yesterday, 12:50 PM

View Posttsi_tom, on 24 January 2020 - 07:49 AM, said:

I would keep soaking it.  I heard ATF works, but I haven't tried.  Block seems good to me.

I'll have to give that a shot! I'm hearing you can bore .030" over without heat issues so I may just wire brush the pits down a bit with the intention of boring. If I use this block that is!
1987 Atlantic Blue Conquest - To swap or not to swap?
1987 Black Flatty Automatic - Organ Donor
Daily: 2013 Accord Sport 6MT
Other Fun Car: 1988 Corvette Convertible
POS Parts Getter: 1989 Ford F-150 5.0

Quote

I'm a Mechanical Engineer, wiring scares me! :D

#36 starquest7

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Posted Yesterday, 01:26 PM

I've used atf to free up rotaries at the cost of it eating through some of the seals. Some people swear by it. Worth a try taking when you're taking it apart anyway.
It will run....one day....

#37 Preludedude

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Posted Yesterday, 01:56 PM

Or come get this RED CAR....Direct swap the motor....Be able to drive and enjoy the Alantic Blue asap WHILE parting out the red car to fund building a BEAST G54B....

:D

#38 AtlanticBlue87

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Posted Yesterday, 03:11 PM

I mean, if I can just get your wiring harnesses I can then use my forged pistons and rebuild an engine for the blue car! I need to get rid of my flatty first before taking on another car!
1987 Atlantic Blue Conquest - To swap or not to swap?
1987 Black Flatty Automatic - Organ Donor
Daily: 2013 Accord Sport 6MT
Other Fun Car: 1988 Corvette Convertible
POS Parts Getter: 1989 Ford F-150 5.0

Quote

I'm a Mechanical Engineer, wiring scares me! :D





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