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Better Oil Separator For Your SQ


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#41 importwarrior

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 05:36 AM

my question is
would it be better to hook the hose to the down pipe rather then the intake before turbo?

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#42 mstieg

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 04:39 PM

View Postimportwarrior, on 07 July 2014 - 05:36 AM, said:

my question is
would it be better to hook the hose to the down pipe rather then the intake before turbo?

Phinko did this and seemed to like the results.

Q:  Does this produce enough vacc. at idle from the exhaust?...and not too much under boost?
If so, is a restrictor needed to prevent TOO MUCH vacc?  I believe the manual calls for 3-6psi IIRC.  The size of the IN/OUT needed is my 2nd question.  3/4" might be too big, but stock 1/4" is too small per consensus.

Edited by mstieg, 25 August 2014 - 05:13 PM.

Before: 352 rwhp @15psi; MPI: SDS EM5F; Chad intake & equal length header; S256 turbo (56/80comp-64/74ex); 48" of 2.5" IC piping
Now Done:  7.5:1 .35 Wiseco rebuild w/ crank scraper; 274 Magna roller cam & 1.55 rockers; mod port AMC head; 1mm>valves; Innovate WB; GM alt/rewired; 3" 240 alum radiator, elec fans; BMW X5 oil separator exh. crankcase vent; gas tank renewed; D2s; sway/strut bars; LT1 T56 clutch & trans swap w/ Fidanza; 4.22 rear; 265 Kumos on SHP rears; new steering pump/box/lines & coupler fix: http://www.starquest...howtopic=139558; full dash/console rewire - Autometer, push start, etc.
In Progress: breakin & tune
Future: Enjoy driving again; meets & local shows; AC; WG reroute from open vent to exh; Water/Meth?; body/paint

FOR SALE:  Rear Camber plates (basic); NIB beefy U-joints(2); etc.see-->  http://www.starquest...howtopic=133262 Custom 5 gauge overlay panel: http://www.starquest...pic=136703&st=0

#43 ucw458

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 06:55 PM

View Postimportwarrior, on 07 July 2014 - 05:36 AM, said:

my question is
would it be better to hook the hose to the down pipe rather then the intake before turbo?

The answer to that question is, Do you have to smog the car?  If you do then putting it in the exhaust will probably make you fail a smog test.

View Postmstieg, on 25 August 2014 - 04:39 PM, said:

Phinko did this and seemed to like the results.

Q:  Does this produce enough vacc. at idle from the exhaust?...and not too much under boost?
If so, is a restrictor needed to prevent TOO MUCH vacc?  I believe the manual calls for 3-6psi IIRC.  The size of the IN/OUT needed is my 2nd question.  3/4" might be too big, but stock 1/4" is too small per consensus.

Having a separator that flows more than your engine produces isn't a bad thing.  It will only pull out what is there.  The one I'm using works well and only costs $15 on ebay.  You don't need a restrictor because it can't pull too much vacuum.  You see restrictors more on vacuum pump setups.
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#44 Turbo Cary

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 09:50 PM

So this BMW separator, you just leave the port you tapped open to atmosphere? Or do you run it back to your pan?

I have thought about buying a catch can but am not quote sure how to run it. Should I run a line to the pan or just leave the pan open/or plug it off?

#45 ucw458

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 11:43 PM

There's an inlet (side)  outlet (top) and oil drain (bottom).  Side inlet to VC, top to turbo intake and bottom to the pan.  I ran the drain to the pan.  Better to have the oil drain to the pan than a catch can.  Inside a catch can it does the bearings no good.
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#46 mstieg

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 11:52 PM

View Postucw458, on 25 August 2014 - 11:43 PM, said:

...  I ran the drain to the pan.  Better to have the oil drain to the pan than a catch can.  Inside a catch can it does the bearings no good.

I don't think the small amount collected (less than 1/2 litre in the bigger cans) will be enough to starve an engine of bearing lubing oil.  Should drain periodically every __th oil change anyhow.

To your earlier point - thanks for answering.  As I read it, the exhaust can't pull too much vacc. while a vacc. pump is capable of doing so.  What about the turbo intake as separator vacc source?  That's the stock source and I was planning on going that route, but whether warranted or not, am not a fan of pulling anything in through my turbo.  Although unlikely that oil, mist, or crud will come from the separator, I'd rather not chance it.  Sounds like a downpipe bung is the best route?
Before: 352 rwhp @15psi; MPI: SDS EM5F; Chad intake & equal length header; S256 turbo (56/80comp-64/74ex); 48" of 2.5" IC piping
Now Done:  7.5:1 .35 Wiseco rebuild w/ crank scraper; 274 Magna roller cam & 1.55 rockers; mod port AMC head; 1mm>valves; Innovate WB; GM alt/rewired; 3" 240 alum radiator, elec fans; BMW X5 oil separator exh. crankcase vent; gas tank renewed; D2s; sway/strut bars; LT1 T56 clutch & trans swap w/ Fidanza; 4.22 rear; 265 Kumos on SHP rears; new steering pump/box/lines & coupler fix: http://www.starquest...howtopic=139558; full dash/console rewire - Autometer, push start, etc.
In Progress: breakin & tune
Future: Enjoy driving again; meets & local shows; AC; WG reroute from open vent to exh; Water/Meth?; body/paint

FOR SALE:  Rear Camber plates (basic); NIB beefy U-joints(2); etc.see-->  http://www.starquest...howtopic=133262 Custom 5 gauge overlay panel: http://www.starquest...pic=136703&st=0

#47 Funky Phil

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Posted 26 August 2014 - 06:12 PM

Mstieg, my exhaust pulls enough vac at idle that you can hear it overcome the stock pcv and make it close.

As long as I have the full exhaust on, it doesn't seem to pull too much as far as I can tell. No smoking or noticeable loss on the dipstick.

Edited by Funky Phil, 27 August 2014 - 10:13 AM.

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#48 mstieg

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Posted 26 August 2014 - 10:44 PM

View PostFunky Phil, on 26 August 2014 - 06:12 PM, said:

Mstieg, my exhaust pulls enough vac at idle that you can here it overcome the stock pcv and make it close.

As long as I have the full exhaust on, it doesn't seem to pull too much as far as I can tell. No smoking or noticeable loss on the dipstick.

Thanks for reply.  Further - where is your bung for that?  After WB O2 sensor?  Wouldn't expect much crud going through to mess w/ readings, but preventing that plus temps seems about right?
Before: 352 rwhp @15psi; MPI: SDS EM5F; Chad intake & equal length header; S256 turbo (56/80comp-64/74ex); 48" of 2.5" IC piping
Now Done:  7.5:1 .35 Wiseco rebuild w/ crank scraper; 274 Magna roller cam & 1.55 rockers; mod port AMC head; 1mm>valves; Innovate WB; GM alt/rewired; 3" 240 alum radiator, elec fans; BMW X5 oil separator exh. crankcase vent; gas tank renewed; D2s; sway/strut bars; LT1 T56 clutch & trans swap w/ Fidanza; 4.22 rear; 265 Kumos on SHP rears; new steering pump/box/lines & coupler fix: http://www.starquest...howtopic=139558; full dash/console rewire - Autometer, push start, etc.
In Progress: breakin & tune
Future: Enjoy driving again; meets & local shows; AC; WG reroute from open vent to exh; Water/Meth?; body/paint

FOR SALE:  Rear Camber plates (basic); NIB beefy U-joints(2); etc.see-->  http://www.starquest...howtopic=133262 Custom 5 gauge overlay panel: http://www.starquest...pic=136703&st=0

#49 Funky Phil

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 08:55 AM

Its after the wb02
10.95@122mph MoFuggin stickshift! https://m.youtube.co...h?v=8Q01UKt5q4U

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#50 mstieg

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 11:00 AM

Great thanks.  So yours is only hooked up to the rear VC port?  What's the point of the front PCV valve if it's being sucked shut from inside by the overpowering exh vacc?

Why not just cap the front PCV port or combine with rear to exh. vacc line?
Before: 352 rwhp @15psi; MPI: SDS EM5F; Chad intake & equal length header; S256 turbo (56/80comp-64/74ex); 48" of 2.5" IC piping
Now Done:  7.5:1 .35 Wiseco rebuild w/ crank scraper; 274 Magna roller cam & 1.55 rockers; mod port AMC head; 1mm>valves; Innovate WB; GM alt/rewired; 3" 240 alum radiator, elec fans; BMW X5 oil separator exh. crankcase vent; gas tank renewed; D2s; sway/strut bars; LT1 T56 clutch & trans swap w/ Fidanza; 4.22 rear; 265 Kumos on SHP rears; new steering pump/box/lines & coupler fix: http://www.starquest...howtopic=139558; full dash/console rewire - Autometer, push start, etc.
In Progress: breakin & tune
Future: Enjoy driving again; meets & local shows; AC; WG reroute from open vent to exh; Water/Meth?; body/paint

FOR SALE:  Rear Camber plates (basic); NIB beefy U-joints(2); etc.see-->  http://www.starquest...howtopic=133262 Custom 5 gauge overlay panel: http://www.starquest...pic=136703&st=0

#51 importwarrior

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 11:28 AM

Does the engine crankcase actually need an inlet for that much sucking power?

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#52 Funky Phil

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Posted 28 August 2014 - 06:54 PM

I had the pcv on there in case it didn't work and haven't gone back and plugged it. But now that you called me out, I'm gonna plug it. In yo face.
10.95@122mph MoFuggin stickshift! https://m.youtube.co...h?v=8Q01UKt5q4U

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#53 importwarrior

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Posted 29 August 2014 - 05:08 AM

LoL at least a filter :P

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#54 psu_Crash

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Posted 29 August 2014 - 10:56 PM

It sure would be nice if the inlet and outlet were on opposite sides from each other.
Either way I just picked one up. The filter on my VC needs to go :)
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#55 Shelby

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Posted 30 August 2014 - 12:36 AM

from what I'm reading it seems most forget about how the stock aux air valve worked , sure the exh will pull a vacuum , but keep in mind that also the exh will back feed hot gases into the intake at certain times that why they added a back fire valve into the system this opens  to akow air flow to the exh
but closes so hot exh gas can not flow into  the engine from the exh system ,
basically all a back fire valve is is a one way valve capable of handling hot exh gas and high temps

any one using  the exh to draw blow by out  should deff use a back fire valve as a safty decice ,, be aware that most will make some undesirable noise as they work , esp at idle
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#56 mstieg

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Posted 30 August 2014 - 12:48 AM

View PostShelby, on 30 August 2014 - 12:36 AM, said:

from what I'm reading it seems most forget about how the stock aux air valve worked , sure the exh will pull a vacuum , but keep in mind that also the exh will back feed hot gases into the intake at certain times that why they added a back fire valve into the system this opens  to akow air flow to the exh
but closes so hot exh gas can not flow into  the engine from the exh system ,
basically all a back fire valve is is a one way valve capable of handling hot exh gas and high temps

any one using  the exh to draw blow by out  should deff use a back fire valve as a safty decice ,, be aware that most will make some undesirable noise as they work , esp at idle

Thanks Shelby.  Great point as I recently was made aware.  Currently have this on order.  http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

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Since I only need one of the two valves, the other will be for sale.  I was NOT aware of any noises from this valve however.  Hopefully it's not too bad.  Could heat wrap it to deaden it some I suppose, even though it'll be further down past the WB O2 sensor.
Before: 352 rwhp @15psi; MPI: SDS EM5F; Chad intake & equal length header; S256 turbo (56/80comp-64/74ex); 48" of 2.5" IC piping
Now Done:  7.5:1 .35 Wiseco rebuild w/ crank scraper; 274 Magna roller cam & 1.55 rockers; mod port AMC head; 1mm>valves; Innovate WB; GM alt/rewired; 3" 240 alum radiator, elec fans; BMW X5 oil separator exh. crankcase vent; gas tank renewed; D2s; sway/strut bars; LT1 T56 clutch & trans swap w/ Fidanza; 4.22 rear; 265 Kumos on SHP rears; new steering pump/box/lines & coupler fix: http://www.starquest...howtopic=139558; full dash/console rewire - Autometer, push start, etc.
In Progress: breakin & tune
Future: Enjoy driving again; meets & local shows; AC; WG reroute from open vent to exh; Water/Meth?; body/paint

FOR SALE:  Rear Camber plates (basic); NIB beefy U-joints(2); etc.see-->  http://www.starquest...howtopic=133262 Custom 5 gauge overlay panel: http://www.starquest...pic=136703&st=0

#57 ucw458

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Posted 30 August 2014 - 12:58 AM

Noise from those valves will most likely not be heard at all.  If the system is plumbed then all the noise stays in the hoses.  I had 2 of these on a V8 car as part of the smog pump system.  Never heard them until I took all the hoses off to delete the smog pump.  Then I could hear the valves rattle on decel.
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#58 Funky Phil

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Posted 30 August 2014 - 01:50 AM

those valves are junk and when they fail, blow oil EVERYWHERE

Edited by Funky Phil, 30 August 2014 - 01:53 AM.

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#59 mstieg

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Posted 30 August 2014 - 02:17 AM

View PostFunky Phil, on 30 August 2014 - 01:50 AM, said:

those valves are junk and when they fail, blow oil EVERYWHERE

Well Dam dam.  Can't have that.  What's the recc?  Only need the bung & valve.  Many available around same price range.

http://www.ebay.com/... valve&_sacat=0

Still considering the OEM separator UCW458 reccs btw.  No smog tests in FL.

Edited by mstieg, 30 August 2014 - 02:25 AM.

Before: 352 rwhp @15psi; MPI: SDS EM5F; Chad intake & equal length header; S256 turbo (56/80comp-64/74ex); 48" of 2.5" IC piping
Now Done:  7.5:1 .35 Wiseco rebuild w/ crank scraper; 274 Magna roller cam & 1.55 rockers; mod port AMC head; 1mm>valves; Innovate WB; GM alt/rewired; 3" 240 alum radiator, elec fans; BMW X5 oil separator exh. crankcase vent; gas tank renewed; D2s; sway/strut bars; LT1 T56 clutch & trans swap w/ Fidanza; 4.22 rear; 265 Kumos on SHP rears; new steering pump/box/lines & coupler fix: http://www.starquest...howtopic=139558; full dash/console rewire - Autometer, push start, etc.
In Progress: breakin & tune
Future: Enjoy driving again; meets & local shows; AC; WG reroute from open vent to exh; Water/Meth?; body/paint

FOR SALE:  Rear Camber plates (basic); NIB beefy U-joints(2); etc.see-->  http://www.starquest...howtopic=133262 Custom 5 gauge overlay panel: http://www.starquest...pic=136703&st=0

#60 Shelby

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Posted 30 August 2014 - 01:08 PM

flame  is what destroys those valves,,  that's why chyr and ford finally moved the pipe way  down stream 4-5 ft from the exh  manifold , and a turbo makes that flame from the exh travel a good  ways down stream  on the down pipe
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