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LS1 / T56 Starion


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#1 19cturbo

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 11:00 PM

I have picked up a 1988 Starion and will be putting a LS1 and a T56 in it from a 2002 camaro, ill try to update as much as possible.

For the back story on the car, I went to high school with a kid named Tanner White. Total gearhead! He had a starion in high school and i wanted one from the day i first say his. Well after i graduated in 2007 i picked up the silver 1jz car i have now.. had no motor at the time but i got it from him..

Fast forward to about 2011 and he has this black 88 he wants to put a V8 into. So i helped him pull out all the stuff he doesnt need and get it ready, and he starts getting money together and an engine planned out. Sadly he didnt make it very far. In 2012 tanner was in a freak accident falling down some steps hitting his head on a door frame. Had major swelling in his brain and had to have emergency surgery, the frontal lobe of his brain was mushy, the temporal love was damaged very badly as well and they ended up removing 1/3 of that. Which is where your personality; and just about everything else comes from. He was in a coma almost a year. Now he is confined to a bed, he can move his arms and legs, but can not speak, or do anything for himself. He just watches car shows all day! He's got it made! This was his car,  So I'm continuing the project for him! He was putting a ford motor in it i believe but we didnt always agree on things. So i decided ill put a LS1 in it instead.


This isnt a big horsepower car, its more of an honor build and building myself a fun daily driver. I bought it from his parents to put a V8 in it and thats what im going to do!


Ill be updating quick here to begin with. as ive had this going for a minute but am just now creating the build thread. Updates will come as i finish the work and projects and as money allows. hope everyone enjoys


Ill keep a running total and try to add parts needed and part numbers as i go.. it may help someone else!

1988 Starion - $700
2002 camaro - $3200 - parted for $1800 - have $1400 in engine and trans

PARTS


From http://www.dynosty.com/
Lokar 36" cut to fit throttle cable - $61 - Part number - TC-1000LS1
Borla XR-1 muffler - $142 - Part number - 40086
Spal 10" puller fans - $135 - Part number - 30100360
Vibrant Performance -3 36" line - $28 - Part number - VPE-10271
Vibrant Performance -3 90 degree adapter - $17 - Part number - VPE-10780
Earls 10mmx1.0 brake line adapter (for clutch master cylinder) -$15 - Part number - 592032ERL


From http://www.haltech.com/
Elite 950 / New terminated Harness - Retail $1699 - Part number - HT150721
Haltech IQ3 Street dash - Retail $849 - Part Number - HT060102
Haltech Oil pressure sensor - Retail $189 - Part Number - HT010904
Haltech Hub - Retail $105 - Part number HT-159000
Haltech Wideband 2 kit - Retail $499 - Part number HT-059986

From https://www.autozone.com/

Rack and Pinion - $170 Part number - 64168
3.5 inch exhaust pipe, 10 foot - $50 - Part number 49098
2.5 inch exhaust pipe, 10 foot - $50 - Part number 49049
1980 Dodge Challanger brake booster - $125 - Part number 53-5103
Upper radiator hose (Cut to fit) - $15 - Part number E72112
Lower radiator hose (cut to fit) - $ 22 - Part number E72088
Hose reducer for lower radiator outlet - $8 - Part number 76925
Straight water neck - $20 - Part number 4932

From https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/

20ft 2ga battery cable - $50 - Part number - AC187

From local Chevy dealer

GTO front sump oil pan (pan, windage tray, dipstick, dipstick tube) - $400


From https://www.napaonline.com/
Cv boot outer -$20 - Part number 686-2161
Cv boot inner - $20 - Part number 686-2179

From https://www.summitracing.com

Prothane transmission mount - $45 Part number PTP-6-1608
Steering knuckles  - $100 Part numbers - SUM760667 (3/4DD to 3/4- 36 spline) and CPP-UJ6 (3/4DD to 3/4DD)
Steering shaft  - $15 Part number ALL52175
1350 front slip yoke  - $76 Part number- SDH-3-3-4281x
16mm x 1.5, 18mm x 1.5 banjo steering fittings  - $25 Part number - UIS621710
LS fuel filter/ regulator from a C5 corvette.  $87 - Part number - CMB-03-0263
Fitting for fuel rail, gm push on to -6AN  $18 - Part number - RUS644123
20ft -6AN line  - $75 - Part number - SUM-230620
-6AN to 5/16 barb for return hose  - $8 - Part number - VPE-11215
3x -6AN hose ends  - $15 - Part number - SUM-220690B
Lokar Throttle cable bracket - $45 - Part Number - TCB-40ls13
Tilton remote reservoir - $7 - Part number - 74-202    x3
Tilton reservoir cap - $5 - Part number 74-207     x3
Tilton clamp - $2 - Part number 74-208     x3

From https://www.speedwaymotors.com/

Header kit  - $194 Part number 41869510
Clutch Slave adapter to -3AN Fitting  - $14 Part number 5151396
Remote bleeder for slave  -$30  Part number- 5151399


From http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/

Hinson engine mounts (3/8" shorter) - $195  Part number 4051


From https://www.turnone-steering.com/

Power steering pressure reducer  - $40 - Part number - TUR11


From https://www.flowmastermufflers.com/

Flowmaster 2.5 to 3.5 Y pipe - $50

From https://www.highflowfuel.com/
Walbro 450 intank pump - $110 - Part number -

WAL-F90000274-085


From http://www.tcpglobal.com/
Restoration Shop brand - $150 - Part number - 2110 Gunmetal grey metallic

From http://nbingaman.wix.../gntperformance
Poly Suspension bushings - $250
Differential mounts - $120

From eBay, custom made, or local shops

C5 corvette engine mount brackts ( to the block ) (used) - $50
1350 rear flange with custom adapter  (came from larry robbins, slowquest) -$150
2 3" vbands (ebay) - $33
Driveshaft made with 1350 u joints - $80 - local friend works at place lol
3.5" vband (eBay) - $25




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Tanner before his accident.

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Tanner now.
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Edited by 19cturbo, 16 July 2018 - 04:54 PM.

Being not real since I learned what was good for me

View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.





#2 19cturbo

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 11:03 PM

Step 1 was to get the car home and evaluate the situation, i hadnt found a motor or trans yet but was just trying to get my ducks in a row and clean it up a bit.

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Being not real since I learned what was good for me

View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#3 19cturbo

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 11:05 PM

I started cleaning up the interior, and the seats... they needed alot of help

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Being not real since I learned what was good for me

View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#4 19cturbo

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 11:08 PM

On to the fronts, cleaning, and making the blue black again like its supposed to be..

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Being not real since I learned what was good for me

View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#5 19cturbo

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 11:09 PM

my little brother helped me remove some of the things i wont be needing anymore in the engine bay

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View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#6 19cturbo

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 11:10 PM

since i still have no engine or trans yet, i figured id clean up the only tail light it has in it lol!

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Being not real since I learned what was good for me

View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#7 19cturbo

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 11:12 PM

I picked up a 5.3 iron block for 100 bucks.. ran when pulled is what i was told. but once i got it home they left it sitting with no plugs and it had rusty cylinder walls.. so i pulled it apart to get ready for the machine shop

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Being not real since I learned what was good for me

View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#8 19cturbo

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 11:14 PM

I started debating and decided it would be easier and cheaper in the long run to buy a whole car and pull the LS1 and T56 from it.. i picked up a running driving 2002 camaro, 160k. Drove the car then pulled it into the garage, and parted it out.. i made about 1800 back parting it, so i was only into the LS1 and T56 for about 1400 bucks! cant go wrong! and i sold the 5.3 for 100 more than i paid!

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Being not real since I learned what was good for me

View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#9 19cturbo

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 11:16 PM

Heres the delima.... The trans wont fit.. so we had to do things.....

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View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#10 19cturbo

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 11:20 PM

once the trans tunnel was out of the way, i could refit the engine and trans into the car and start working on mounts!


im going to need to cut this up a little and get it ready for the LS1 to fit

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I went with Hinson poly mounts, 3/8" shorter than stock to give me a little extra room!


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Engine sitting on its own!


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im going to need to cut this up a little and get it ready for the LS1 to fit
Being not real since I learned what was good for me

View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#11 19cturbo

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 11:24 PM

Time to start working on the trans mount. I welded angel iron to the body of the car with nuts welded to the back.. this will be my mounting points for the trans and then ill start making the bracket.. using angel iron for that as well, then square stock and some smaller angel on the top of that for extra strenght..  i never feel like its strong enough!  I boxed in the angel on the car, and painted them.. i may be missing some pictures here and there as im posting old images and trying to keep them in order.. sorry

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Edited by 19cturbo, 28 January 2018 - 11:25 PM.

Being not real since I learned what was good for me

View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#12 19cturbo

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 11:30 PM

The stock steering box is not going to work, its in in the way in more ways than one. So it has to go..

Im using a steering rack from a 1989 dodge shadow and outer tie rod ends from a 99 neon. The rack needs a little modifying to actually work, you have to rotate the end around so that the steering lines will clear under the pan..

Using to steering u joints and DD shaft.. the top joint at the column which also needs modified, you have to cut the end off, weld the joint on and im also using a through bolt just to be safe.. but the top joint i ordered 3/4" DD shaft to 3/4" DD shaft... at the rack its 3/4" DD shaft to 3/4" 36 spline.

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Edited by 19cturbo, 29 January 2018 - 07:12 PM.

Being not real since I learned what was good for me

View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#13 19cturbo

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 11:33 PM

I went and picked up a sheet of 18ga metal to start working on the trans tunnel! boy was that just tons of fun LOL

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Being not real since I learned what was good for me

View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#14 mbruneaux

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 09:46 AM

Sorry to hear about your friend, looks great and your working fast!
Canterbury, CT
1989 Chrysler Conquest TSi (Project Race Car) Build thread http://www.starquest...opic=147910&hl=
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#15 19cturbo

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 11:01 AM

Not that fast. This is old stuff haha. It's been a couple months of work.
Being not real since I learned what was good for me

View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#16 NotStock88

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 03:34 PM

Awesome! Subscribed!
NOOB

#17 19cturbo

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 07:18 PM

The next step was a speedway motors header kit.. i didnt want to even try to buy some to fit and play that game so i decided to build my own.. this may or may not have been a bad decision, but it was the one i made! Ive never built a set of headers before so it was a total learning process for me!

The kit came with everything you needed for about 200 bucks.. was hard to go wrong.

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Now i had to go around the steering shaft on the drivers side. there was no other way to do it. which made for some interesting times.

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i dont seem to have the picture uploaded where i ran the last 2 pipes to the collector on the drivers side, but you get the idea! on to the passanger side... it will be much different!
Being not real since I learned what was good for me

View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#18 19cturbo

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 07:20 PM

the passanger side all run down together, clearing the steering rack and just enough room not to cook my starter.. i kept them as close to the frame as possible..

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Being not real since I learned what was good for me

View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#19 19cturbo

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 07:23 PM

Once they were all fitted, i had to pull them out, tac the pieces together im more places then cut them off the flange and weld all the pipes up, then refit them to the car and then pull them back out to coat and wrap them.. it wasnt much fun, and i couldnt have done it alone! A company called Thermal Zero hooked me up with the header wrap! they also do turbo blankets, and heat sheating! awesome products!

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Being not real since I learned what was good for me

View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#20 19cturbo

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 07:24 PM

Im going to be running 1350 U joints, i had to pick up a front slip yoke, and Larry Robbins, "slowquest" i think is his name here had an adapter made to go from a 1350 flange and bolt to the torque tube! awesome piece! driveshaft should be done this week, just dropped this stuff off!

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Being not real since I learned what was good for me

View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.




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