2xTSi

I'm already running down this raod with my Conquest,so I figure I'll throw my 2 cents in... You may want to check out my posted thread http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=123988&hl=&fromsearch=1 , discussing my project to swap the 12a ouf for a small 16g, while retaining the factory TD05 turbine housing. Retaining this housing allows you to use the factory style 3bolt downpipe (The pipe that has the O2 sensor on it) flange. The TD05 turbine housing on the Conquest/Starion is NOT the same as a TD05 turbine housing from a DSM. These cars use a 3bolt flange http://www.picpile.net/ims/pic.php?u=159EWkX7&i=16793 whereas the DSMs use a 5bolt flange. Thats not to say you can't use one, but rather that you should know the difference, as using a DSM housing will require you to fab your own downpipe with a DSM compatible flange on it. Certainaly possible and has been done before. Check out Indiana's comments and pics in this thread... he did a great job building his. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=123080&hl=&fromsearch=1 There are pluses and minuses either way you go that basically add up to time/money. IF you plan on retaining the factory housing...I would say that you first need to find out whether or not the turbine housing from your original turbo is still in good shape or not. That will likely require fully removing the turbo from the car, and seperating the CHRA (cnter section) from the turbing housing. IF there are any major fissures/cracks or if its blown out, then you will have to find another one so that it can be reprofiled instead. (and so far, it seems like finding one in good shape is rare). IF you want to use a stock DSM turbo (like a small 16G with a DSM style turbine housing), then you either need to know how to weld and fab, or be willing to pay someone (like Indiana) who does. also, the DSM turbos aren't an exact fit... the compressor side needs to be clocked (turned around) because the air outlet faces the wrong direction. also, I believe that the exhaust manifolds turbo flange doesn't properly line up and you'll have to do a little work with the mounting bolts. See the last linked post I referenced ..it talks about this as well. I hope this info has given you some food for thought. Best of luck! Mark

Speedyquest, I'm unsure of what you mean exactly, as the SAFC is a "piggyback" controller in and of itself. The S-AFC needs a fuel injection system, an air flow meter, and an ECU to do its job. To install one you have to locate and splice the following wires going to the ECU: RED - Ignition Power GREEN - RPM signal BROWN - Ground Wire closest to ECU as you can safely get BLACK - Ground Wire farther away from ECU than brown wire. Don't ask why.. Its just what Apexi recommends. PURPLE - Knock Sensor GREY- Throttle position sensor YELLOW - Air Flow Signal wire going to ECU WHITE - Air Flow Signal from AFM/Pressure Sensor Here is a 50,000ft overview: The A'PEXi Air Flow Converters work by intercepting the signal between the car's air flow meter and the ECU. The Air Flow Meter is the device that tells the ECU how much air is entering the engine so that the ECU can add the correct amount of fuel. The ECU calculates the proper ratio of fuel to air for a stock, unmodified engine. Certain engine modifications can cause the dynamics of the engine to require more fuel. In this case, there are two common options for modifying the amout of fuel being input into the engine. One can either install larger injectors or increase the fuel pressure to the stock injectors is increased. Since the stock ECU thinks that it knows how much fuel it is putting into the engine based on the stock injector size and the stock fuel pressure, changing either of these will result in increased fuel. You may get lucky and just pick the perfect injector or fuel pressure that gives you the perfect air/fuel ratio. You may also get lucky and pick this weekends winning lottery numbers. In either case I wouldn't bet the farm on it. The Air Flow Converter gives you the means to adjust the amount of fuel that the ECU injects into the engine by modifying the signal from the air flow meter. This is done a specific RPM levels. This way you can tell the engine that a certain amount more air is flowing into the engine as a specific RPM than is really entering the engine, and the ECU will add that much more fuel. Decrease it at another RPM level and the ECU will decrease the fuel into the engine.

I began noticing some hesitation from the 12a turbo in my 88 Conquest..looks like oil is blowing into the compressor side. Back when I bought it, the vacuum lines were mostly broken and cracked.. and I think the turbo was probably run a bit to hard for a little while. PO didn't even have a turbo timer on the car. I figure after 107k miles, the CHRA internals may have just begun to fail. Rather than rebuild the 12a, I'm gonna have its turbine housing reprofiled (assuming it isn't cracked thru) to accept a newly rebuilt 16g that I've had lying around for some time. I was originally intending to use a t3/t4, but honestly I just don't feel like doing that much fab work for such a small HP project. Some other parts I will be installing to support the 16G and control the A/F: 1) Apexi S-AFC Gen2 2) PLX wideband AFR with omni-display and 3wire O2 sensor 3) PLX boost guage (readout via omni display) 4) New knock sensor (107k miles and nearly 24years.. I figure its time. ???Anyone ever try using a 1g DSM sensor???) 5) Ebay 3inch O2 housing/downpipe 6) 2.5inch exhaust ( 3inch is too big for my needs, no pun intended) with a new magnaflow cat and as yet unpurchased muffler 7) Possibly using a 1G DSM MAS because it won't cost much, it flows more, and is more accurate than the OEM from what I've read. 8) Wally 255LPH inline fuel pump with homemade heavy duty wiring upgrade to ensure full 12v current. 9) An as yet unpurchased FPR. 10) Custom IC to TB hardpipe with a 1g DSM BOV (Does anyone here recirculate, or do you all just vent to atmosphere?) If I am missing anything obvious, please chime in. I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel, and appreciate knowledgeable input!!! She should run like a champ after I'm done. Again... no high horsepower goals for this car. Just reliable fun. If the 12a wasn't going bad, I wouldn't even be going this far with the car, but since it is, and I have the 16g just sitting there like a paperweight, I figure, why not...The supporting mods will only serve to make it more reliable and give me better insight as to how the car is behaving. I'll post pics as soon as I start tearing into it. Keeping my fingers crossed that I don't have a cracked exhaust manifold!!!

Good job on your build. I've got the FP 18GSL2 on my AWD 1g Talon. Forced Performance came up with a pretty good idea years ago, back when they took the MHI TD05H CHRA and retrofitted the SL2 wheel to it. (They replaced this turbo with the 68HTA later on, but it's still a great unit if you can find one) It made for a hell of a sleeper turbo. Later they offered it with a TD06CHRA, providing slightly better top end power. Some people "poo-poo'd" it for not being a true MHI unit back when it came out, unfortunately. Truth be told though..It outflows/outperforms the EvoIII16g and comes close to the 20G in supported hp numbers, but doesn't require as much in the way of supporting mods. On the 4G63, it is a solid 400whp turbo. Enjoy the boost!

I appreciate all the info guys. I will call the dealer.

Yeah.. Looked for that one too. No dice. It's ok.. I'm gonna RTV it

I noticed that mine is leaking... Went to Autozone/Pepboys/O'Reillys and even RockAuto.com....they can't even order them anymore. I guess I can make one.. but if you have any leads, I'd appreciate it.

I agree with the comments about injectors... your spark is probably being quenched by an over abundance of fuel being sprayed into the intake, without proper timing and volume control. Replace the injectors first. If you still have issues past that, start looking at the ignition control module and the optical pickup in the dizzy, as these are 2 other areas that greatly contribute to the firing off of the injectors in the correct manner. I would check timimg as well (even though it doesn't sound like this is your issue) if for no other reason than its good for piece of mind. You said its never been changed since the car was built....as far as you know... so without popping the cover and running a timimg light on it... you simply don't know whether its jumped time or broken a tooth or anything, until you actually verify it. I hope you are able to solve the problem without much more hairpulling and frustration. Mark

I saw it yesterday when I went to his house to chat and buy an ETACS. It's in such good shape that I was tempted to buy it, and my airdam isn't even broken. Good investment considering how easily these break, and how hard they are to find in such good shape.

I received a reply.. and, he is a member on the board! Dear mmorrow74, Thanks for the response, I came up with this design after doing an mpi conversion on a customers car. He did not want to relocate the battery and destroy the radiator support for IC pipes. I am familiar with starquestclub and am a member there. The plenum entrance will be redesigned on the next one i make. It will funnel from the TB to either side of the plenum, making it close to full length. The fuel rail is removable, and held in via bolts. I would consider doing a group purchase to get the price down a bit and not have to go through ebay, to make it more affordable. Depending on how many i can make at one time will determine the price. With the time involved in building and the price of the materials with tps, fuel rail, throttle body, its hard to get it down a whole lot. We are looking at around the 600-650 range if ordered directly through me. Be in touch ~Lee - boostedautodesign

I posted a link to this as well some time ago in the MPI forum... The bidding is over now and it looks as though no one bought it, so I decided to email the seller. I will post any reply he makes so we can all view it. Here is what I wrote: Dear boostedautodesign, The MPI you've built looks to be very well made and thought out. I am a member of Starquestclub.com. We are very interested in possibly purchasing one from you, but we do have a few questions. We are specifically concerned with airflow numbers for each intake runner. Having built your MPI with the TB located above the central log, some members have expressed concern that runners 2 and 3 will get the majority of the total airflow, leaving the outer runners with a less equal distribution. Also, is the fuel log welded or bolted in place? Its hard to tell from the pics you've posted on ebay. Lastly, is this a 1 off, or are you able/willing to make multiple units for sale, and if so, would you entertain a group buy from our website members at a slightly reduced cost? I look forward to hearing from you, and don't hesitate to joing our site and post information directly if you so chose. We'd really like to hear how this MPI came about and what it has to offer. Mark Morrow (2xTSi)

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item27bdae0a88 What do you guys think? Might be worth getting in touch with the maker, if enough people wanted to go in on an MPI group buy. Anyone live near his listed area interested in contacting him to see it in person?

Motocam.. The one you linked to is almost identical to the AEM UEGO in design, but costs about $30-$40 more than the UEGO. (I assume this is because the Innovative unit includes a datacable for datalogging) The biggest difference and advantage of the PLX system that you have the ability to consolidate MULTIPLE sensors (A/F, EGT, Boost/Vac, AIT, Oil Pressure, Fluid temp, etc) into 1 guage display. This system allows for monitoring as well as datalogging. The system can be configured for threshhold monitoring so that when a set warning alert for any sensor gets tripped, that sensor's readings will instantly appear, overriding your currently viewed sensor to alert you. It really just comes down to personal taste.. all these guages from different companies do the same thing.. they monitor vital systems so that you can tell whether they are functioning propery or not. For my personal taste, I prefer 1 guage to look at versus a cockpit full of guages that force me to look around the cabin to read, which takes my eyes off the road. I've been involved in SCCA AutoX for 20 years now... the more time I spend looking at the course and less time I spend looking sweeping my eyes across multiple guages, the better.

Great pictures Indiana, thats more or less what I was attempting to illustrate using the ebay part as a guide. I did make sure to mention that the piping would be oriented facing the wrong way, and that he would be better off building a DP from scratch than trying to mod one from ebay. Looks like you have a great build going.. Thanks again for sharing your experience with this!

Actually the sensor boxes are about the size of a small matchbox, and each one is designed to snap in place with the others, so you can plan to place them all in 1 location..in my case, against the firewall inside the car behind the center console so they are easy to reach. They hardly take up any space at all and allow you to centralize your wiring MUCH better than if you were runnin multiple guages. With this..each guage plugs into the next with what looks alot like a mini-headphone jack cable, then you run 1 cable up to the guage face from the last sensor in the series and you are done!