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_Jason

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    I'm in the coolest driver's high...
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    Redneckville, OR

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    http://internet.oit.edu/~sternj/

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  1. some clarification for everyone: no shipping because i'm lazy and some of the items like the exhaust, sway bars, and head are complain to ship. i live in the reno area. i thought that was implied by the "Anyone in the Reno area?" line in the topic. the cam is tim c's enter the banshee cam. i thought that was implied by the "tim c. enter the banshee cam" line in the head. prices will be about half what i paid for things, so: turbos $200 each head w/ cam, arp studs $250 intake manifold w/ rebuilt injectors $100 swaybars $100 *DM 3" exhaust with megan muffler $125 - this was hacksawed in half when i was moving and has to be rewelded ($10 at an exhaust shop) i'm off for the weekend, so if you're in the area or are seriously willing to make a trip, give me a call. i know i'm not being flexible, but i'm also in no rush to dump all of this stuff for a loss. i'd actually prefer to pick up a nice shell, but i haven't seen any worth picking up, so...
  2. So I graduated and moved to Reno to get a high paying job. Unfortunately, my Starion didn't make it. The transmission started to go out and the bottom end developed rod knock. I pulled the pan and the crank was scuffed too bad to just swap out the main bearings, and remember, I am in the process of moving, so I had to accept the fact that this car served its purpose of being a fun, fast college car, and that I had to move on. So, off went all the parts worth salvaging, except the Fidanza flywheel =(, since I didn't really have a garage or time, etc.. So, now I have all of these parts, but still no time. And the shipping companies are charging ridiculous prices for some of these items, so if anyone is in the Reno area, let me know and I'll make you a really good deal on some of these parts. If no one responds, I might just wait and buy a shell to dump all of these parts on. Parts include: New Clearwater head with a Tim C. enter the banshee cam Rebuilt intake manifold (reused sensors, though) with 2 Python injectors Big16G turbo with ~10k miles on it 12A turbo with 2k miles on it - no joke, no shaft play at all Suspension Techniques front and rear sway bars Ported but cracked exhaust manifold Not-ported and not-cracked almost new exhaust manifold And a ton of other misc. parts. Most of these parts only have about 5k miles on them, but realize that the car wasn't driven on road trips or by a little old lady to church and back (although those seem to be some of the craziest drivers =), so the 5k miles were 5k of hard miles. But the parts are all good, except maybe the sensors on the intake manifold. Let me know if anyone is interested. PM me, reply, or call 541-331-3808. Thanks.
  3. apparently that came off as ambiguous- i recently purchased a pair of oem injectors remanufactured by python injection. thanks. let me know. =)
  4. i'm more interested in the tb-pro1 rather than the 2, as i just got rebuilt python injectors. any chance the gp could score a discount for the tb-pro1?
  5. as i have tried to warn people about in the for sale forum, danny goes posting pretty good prices on parts as he's parting out his car. so i ask him how much for his super 16g turbo and stock rims with new tyres. and he says $600 + $50-100 shipping. so i send him $100 because i know $50 shipping for all of that isn't reasonable. and so he stalls for a week or so, but sends me the turbo and gives me the tracking number. then he tells me there's a slight problem with shipping the rims and tyres, as he really didn't actually check on how much it would be to ship; instead he just guessed. shipping would be $100 more. so i say "ok, how much do you expect me to pay?" and he goes "i dunno." so i say "well, do you mind trying to find a cheaper way of shipping? maybe let the air out of the tyres so they're lighter and not box them. i had rims sent like that before, and they were only ~$25 each." no real response. "how about greyhound? i know they ship larger parts fairly cheaply." "like the busses?" "yeah." no response. so for the last two weeks i have been sending him messages asking "so, any progress? if not, mind telling me how much more to send to get the rims, or refunding me the $250 ($700 - $400 turbo - $50 shipping for the turbo?)" and now it's been over a month since i sent him the money, so i can't cancel the paypal payment. i didn't think it would be a problem, as again i received the turbo, which was the more expensive of the items. but still no response. and his paypal account has a complaint, but it's the similar sheot as when an uninsured motorist crashed into my ford escort. you can sue and the court will say "ok, pay him" but that really doesn't mean they will. so crap.
  6. http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?...t=PWR-23-389-01
  7. sounds incredibly interesting. please keep us informed. =)
  8. if it's not too late, i'd like to get: Beck Arnley Part #: 156-8100 Wells Part #: CR2205G
  9. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=KYB-235003 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=KYB-235004 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=KYB-365060 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=STQ-60340
  10. isn't the u.s. 87 toyota corolla gts ff? that'd be insanely hard with all the understeering. how exactly are these things rated?
  11. that would be the way to go if you don't twincharge, but don't forget about the turbo. =) since the s/c is going to be bypassed once the turbo pressure exceeds what the s/c is generating, you'd want the s/c to be generating as much boost as possible in the lower rpm range, then kick off at a certain rpm to prevent damage. notice how he said max power from the s/c isn't very impressive, but the difference would probably be pretty noticable if it happened at a lower rpm when the turbo would be making very little boost. also, what are you using/plan on using for the valve to bypass the s/c?
  12. at what rpm does the s/c make 10 psi? for a twincharge setup, it would seem like you'd want a clutch-type s/c to be overdriven, then stop driving the s/c right when the turbo starts making boost (~3000 rpm)... i'm sure you know this, but i was wondering if the lack of low end power was caused by underdriving the s/c since you don't have the turbo running yet... regardless, it is still a wickedly cool project. =)
  13. check out: http://www.starquestclub.com/index.pl?boar...;num=1061281347 might be worth waiting, or at least asking oscar about the specifics...
  14. i'm sure there is a much better way.... to drop the voltage from 12 volts to 5 volts, i'd try and find a cigarette lighter voltage converter like the ones that come with portable cd players. they're fairly cheap and abundant, plus they take a lot of the guesswork and calculations out of it. =) the problem with using a resistor would be the wattage. using V: 12 - 5 = 7v I: .24 amps R = V / I = 50 ohms P = V * I = 2.88 watts, which would require a fairly large resistor, or a network of several resistors. as far as driving a lamp off of the output of the chip, check and make sure it can source that much current. many cmos chips can't, you could hook the output to a transistor to try and achieve the light getting brighter as the voltage increases. unfortunately i don't remember how to find out the type of transistor you need based on the ohmic region... i just remember it involved math. =( if you want the light lit at 0 volts, you'll need to amplify the source somehow. but you already knew that, so sorry i'm not much help.
  15. from what i've seen, anywhere except for ashland and portland. =) i'm down in klamath. =p nah, a red/orange/white (needs a paint job) esi that has a big dent... in the rear fender. =(
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