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Runs for a few seconds then dies repeats over and over RESOLVED!!!


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Hey guys, have been searching through the forum quite a bit for similar issues and have replaced some parts and checked some things that similar posts have provided answers to, however am still very stumped. I'll try to be as descriptive as possible. Car is an 89 conquest, manual, has some mods, hard pipes and bigger intercooler, 2 1/2 inch exhaust piping and hks muffler. Was running about 17psi before this issue showed up. The turbo seems like it may be dying, but is not currently the issue I'm facing. Real issue at the moment is car dies after warming up. I have replaced coolant temperature sensor. Compression on all cylinders are around 110-120. Spark seems very good and timing is set. New fuel pump, filter is nice and clean as well. The car has what appears to be good fuel pressure all the way up to the injectors, but after the car warms up it sputters and eventually dies. I then pull off the ovcp and visually inspect the injectors through the throttle body and while cranking the car over (cranks very well), there seems to be no fuel coming out. Thanks for any advice in advance, great forum so far, hopefully after figuring this issue out I can contribute my findings to the information already here.

 

it starts and runs when cold

once it runs and starts to warm up it dies. as soon as the ECU temp sensor cools the process repeats.

 

tried new ECU Temp Sensor same results.

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i usd an adapter and a summit liquid filled gauge here and also this prosport sensor here as well.

 

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Quest_Parts_and_Info/IMG_1416.jpg

 

 

 

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Quest_Parts_and_Info/IMG_1415.jpg

Edited by importwarrior
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Do you happen to have part numbers for those? Would like to get a similar set up for mine as well. Would I be able to go buy a cheap fuel pressure gauge and a T fitting and throw it inline?
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So went through some other things in addition to what's listed above. I'm still not 100% on fuel pressure, dont have a gauge, but it really does look like it is getting plenty of fuel. Can hold my thumb on the line and it pushes hard. The return line is also clear. All the filters are clean and flowing well. Pulled off injectors and flowed them and checked for leaks, and they seem great as well. Checked continuity through the wires of the cts to the ecu and there is little to no resistance. Cts is brand new and ohms out properly. Timing seems perfect. Plugs are new, great spark. Set tps and checked isc. Still cannot figure out why the car gets warm and just dies, then is very difficult to restart and keep running. Not sure where else to go from here or what to check. Also spent about 3 hours last night reading through the fuel injection section of the FSM, and checking any post on the forum here that had anything to do with a non starting issue or bad idle problem. Any other ideas fellers? Thanks.
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once his car warms up it dies. it warms up enough for the radiator fans to come on.

it just dies.

he has 2 CTS the original and a new one. both seem to function fine when checking them

with the ohm meter. we put one CTS in the fridge.to cool it down.

once the CTS that is in the intake gets to temp the car dies.

you can pull the CTS out of Fridge and hook it up and car starts right up and idles fine.

untill it gets to around 300 to 329 ohms.

 

everything else seems to be fine.

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Soooo... got around to checking the timing chain, and there is a lot of play in the chain it looks like. Possibly throwing the cam timing off so far that it just doesn't want to make boost. Does make any sense? It may not be all my issues, but I don't know what else to check at this point.
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timing chain might have a little slack. once the oil pressure

comes up then it should not have any or very little.

 

some pics and info here.

 

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=944

 

right at the tip to the left of the red tool is where the oil pump pressurizes the black tensioner.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d182/Professor-Quest123/ENGINE%20REBUILD/P1010395.jpg

Edited by importwarrior
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found this info thought it might be helpful

 

A bad O2 sensor won't cause starting issues. The afctory/stock O2 sensor doesn't

even begin to work until several minutes after the engine has been started... and the

ECU ignores the O2 sensor during startup & idling as well.

 

An injector sticking open, flooding the engine, fits your symptoms. You'll probably find

gas-soaked spark plugs (which are now trashed by the way; very difficult to really clean

them) and if you remove the EGR you'll probably find a little gas drips from the intake manifold holes.

 

Once in a great while an injector sticking open is caused by an external issue: a bad

ECU or short in the wiring harness. Try this test: when the engine is cold (when you

know it'll start) unplug the electrical leads to both injectors. Try starting. If the car

starts or sputters like it's going to start then one (or both) injectors are leaking. If it

just cranks over - and you don't get the gas smell - then the problems are outside of

the injectors.

 

mike c

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once his car warms up it dies. it warms up enough for the radiator fans to come on.

it just dies.

he has 2 CTS the original and a new one. both seem to function fine when checking them

with the ohm meter. we put one CTS in the fridge.to cool it down.

once the CTS that is in the intake gets to temp the car dies.

you can pull the CTS out of Fridge and hook it up and car starts right up and idles fine.

untill it gets to around 300 to 329 ohms.

 

everything else seems to be fine.

You are describing a car that needs the fuel enrichment from a cold clt sensor to run. A wide band gauge would likely show it barely getting enough fuel when cold, and than leaning out till it quits.

 

Primary injector is suspect as is the airflow meter and intake pipe for a big leak letting in unmetered air after the airflow meter. The ecu will not provide fuel for unmetered air.

 

What about the in tank fuel filter? Has that been replaced and the tank inspected for floating crap? Said crap can build up on the filter till the car dies, and than fall off after the pump shuts down. This would give the impression that the fuel pressure was ok once the car restarts and you look under the hood. The fuel pressure gauges needs to be visible driving down the road. This can be done with length of hose on a temporary bases.

Edited by StarquestRescue
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