87B71Brad Posted July 18, 2010 Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 well...i fixed the injector clip(secondary) and it ran ok -note that was after the car set for 4 hours and cooled off- Today wife and i took the car to town and went shopping did ok till we went to the last store. while my wife went inside i stayed in the car with the car and air on ofcoarse the temp got more than halfway(car suprisingly runs very cool). well she got back in and we take off pull out on highway and blah no go. runs great in cool weather, runs great in neutral, runs great from cold to middle of gauge(factory one). but as soon as it gets around 3/4 on the temp and my boost gauge even thinks to go over 0lbs its like i just shut the key off. I can let off the gas and run the car allday long with no boost. I can't figure this out. It doesn't make any sense to me. oh i also noticed that the factory boost gauge acts like its on crack when this is happening boost or not. please help me im desperate now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h3r3tic Posted July 18, 2010 Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 did u replace the injector clips? If not do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted July 18, 2010 Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 Now you need to check the vac advance if you haven't already. Another thing to check is running fuel pressure. Try to go into boost with a fuel gauge on the line and see if it drops below eithewr 32 or 38 psi. I can't remember which right now. Check the cone filter in the hose just before the pump. Remove it if it's there. There's an access cover on the drivers side of the trunk to get to that filter. Double check the clips to make sure they aren't corroded. Also 3/4 on the gauge is very hot. Make sure you don't have cooling problems. Rod the radiator out if needed. Make sure all the fans and the T-stat works. Overheating can kill these engines quickly. Olso when overheating you may be tripping the knock sensor. If you trip that the engine will feel like it shut off for a split second. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87B71Brad Posted July 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 no the wires were shorting together so i pulled them apart and taped them. i have no xtras yet. how could a clip cause my problems? that makes no sense. why would i run fine allday long or for two weeks but whenever the coolant temp gets above half way it stops running underboost. I thought the secondary fires over 3k. I works fine over 3k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted July 18, 2010 Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 Injector clips are commonly known to cause all kinds of oddball problems, one of which is exactly what you're describing. Change the clips, solder the new leads in and heatshrink over the connections, and take a small file or emery board to the terminals in the injectors. Bet that takes care of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h3r3tic Posted July 18, 2010 Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 (edited) ok well you didnt say that I assumed it was like your last thread. But injector clips can still be the culprit. These cars are way to tempermental with injectors the littest problem can lead to bigger ones. Check all your cooling issues. Make sure you have all the fans kicking on correctly. Check your top and bottom hoses for leaks and other various hoses. Make sure coolant is flowing and not just cooking in the radiator, Make sure your rad cap is in good working condition holds pressure if its bad coolant with boil at a lower temp since it wont be building the correct psi. If the thermostat hasnt been changed to your knowledge do that. You can get a 180 or 160 depending on prefference and the weather where you live. Check your vacuum advance like he said. If you have a wideband hows the air fuel ratio n whats it sitting at when your bogging out with open throttle and idling. Edited July 18, 2010 by h3r3tic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted July 18, 2010 Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 Just because you fixed the clip to the injector doesn't mean that injector works like its supposed to. Did you replace it or what? If its old you and the last guy wiggles it around and it loosens up and it clips on but its not making a connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87B71Brad Posted July 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 ok my cooling is ok....Its a new engine I'm not going to have a new engine and not change or upgrade my cooling system thats just not the type of person I am. Its got NEW upper-lower hoses new stat, new gasket, rad flushed, new water pump, new temp sensor and everything works fine the fans are perfect. If I had a cooling issue I woulda stated that I'm pretty sure. and my car has never BOILED over. Believe me it hasn't got very hot just right above half way. My 04 silverado woulda climbed way over 210 in the same circumstances. and its got a aftermarket stat and dual electric flexalite fans. and no this just started yesterday so i havent had time to get any new injector clips. but again why would it make sense that it runs good for say 20miles and then just start flubin up. noone has tried to answer that.?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87B71Brad Posted July 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 oh...the a/f is fine...it doesn't pick up when it cuts out because its not running.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted July 18, 2010 Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 I've had a car with bad connections at the injectors. The clips were bad and needed to be changed. The car would drive very well most of the time. But at random it would act up and do exactly what you are experiencing. It was just a loose connection but changing the clips fixed it. I knew what it was so I wasn't to concerned or in a hurry to fix it right away since it drove perfect 99% of the time. BTW when we say clips we mean the whole connector that plugs into the injector. Not just the metal piece that holds it in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87B71Brad Posted July 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 (edited) I've had a car with bad connections at the injectors. The clips were bad and needed to be changed. The car would drive very well most of the time. But at random it would act up and do exactly what you are experiencing. It was just a loose connection but changing the clips fixed it. I knew what it was so I wasn't to concerned or in a hurry to fix it right away since it drove perfect 99% of the time. BTW when we say clips we mean the whole connector that plugs into the injector. Not just the metal piece that holds it in place. its not at random though.....its when the engine warms up really good. can noone understand that??? Check the advance virtual mechanic...its happening to a guy on there too! Edited July 18, 2010 by 87B71Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpaidslave Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 i seem to be having the same problem without the overheating my car does it all the now AFTER i rebuilt the TB i sodderd new clips on and the problem persist but i put my injectors in a glass of B12 so im thinking i ruined my injectors so im ordering new ones. good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87B71Brad Posted July 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 b12 is really good stuff I wouldn't think that it would harm the injectors tho. thanks and good luck to you too. To everyone else I was reading the other topic about this and my sensor below my stat housing has one prong and the plug connecting to it has two prongs/wires. the sensor looks to have new teflon tape on it so maybe when they rebuilt my tb they might have replaced with a wrong one??? who knows. anyone? the sensor on my intake has two prongs and wires. They are both in the same area there so maybe they got switched and hooked up wrong? Thats the only thing I can figure out why when it warms up it would be doing this. Makes better sense than injector leads anywho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpaidslave Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 well the car ran fine before i rebuilt it, it was just leaking gas pretty good. other than injectors i guess the vac lines could be wrong but i dont remember how they were. cant find a diagram ANYWHERE that matches my car that is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UlrichWolf Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 You never said if you had catalytic converters, if you do, it's probably time to sack them. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87B71Brad Posted July 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 one behind the turbo is all. might be that?? I kinda doubt it... don't worry down pipe isn't very far away IF I could get this problem solved first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UlrichWolf Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 Why is it so hard to believe? The converter is clogged, and constricts airflow as it gets hotter. The less flow, the less power. By the way, this creates a lot of heat too, so I would bet that's what took out your turbo. Hey, just a thought from someone who's been around these for a long time. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87B71Brad Posted July 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 yeah its better idea than the injector clip. I'll put a down pipe there now when i replace my toasted snail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 I had a bad cat. The car was slow as heck, it ran hot, turbo glowed. Gut your cats. You'll be doing yourself a big favor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alsandr Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 If you can't drive under boost, while heavy on the throttle or over ~3k RPM, you're secondary injector probably isn't firing. Replacing the clips would be the first thing to do and if that doesn't fix it, your injector itself might be bad. When I first bought mine, it ran fine but the clips were pretty bad so I replaced them. After that, my secondary stopped working and I had all the problems I said before. I swapped that out for a known good one and it's run fine ever since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alsandr Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 yeah its better idea than the injector clip. I'll put a down pipe there now when i replace my toasted snail. Just replace the clip. It's ~24 bucks from DAD (including shipping) and is a pretty quick fix. It's better to prevent that from causing any more problems down the road than to leave it alone. They're a KNOWN PROBLEM on these cars. If you're not willing to do the preventative maintenance, drive something that doesn't need it. Like your feet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 i have yet to find a GOOD precat ,, even a couple that look'd good on top were plug'd part way thru ,,also even a good cat is a huge exh restriction and not need'd to pass eminsions , the aux air system maybe need'd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alsandr Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 i have yet to find a GOOD precat ,, even a couple that look'd good on top were plug'd part way thru ,,also even a good cat is a huge exh restriction and not need'd to pass eminsions , the aux air system maybe need'dDoesn't the stock exhaust system have two cats anyway? I know having at least one catalytic converter is required here, but it's not like the techs can tell if it's gutted without taking off the turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 Those two sensors, each is to have 2 terminals on an 87 if that's the year car you have since 87 is part of your screen name. If you aren't an automatic transmission and you don't much care about how the automatic air conditioner works you can cheap out and get a single terminal temp. gauge sending unit. The harness plug for that has two plugs for an 87, one is single and one is dual and its the dual one with two yellow striped wires. The CTS, that's the temp. sensor for the ECU, it has the end molded into an oval shape and it always has two terminals on it since one is a ground. That ground wire in the plug is BLACK. If you have the two terminal harness plug with the two yellow striped wires on the CTS there's your problem and it also makes you temp. gauge read wrong when these are swapped. If can try an easy test for that secondary injector to see if its stuck or not and that's the put the primary clip to it and start the car. If it starts then floods out rich and dies its working. Its nozzle diameter is double what the primary is so it dispenses way to much fuel. If it won't even start at all then it may be stuck closed or sticking. Clogged up convertors usually make the manifold and turbine housing glow red hot. At least they try to make boost. Have you looked at this? If you have a dead "snail" what ever the heck that is, then why would you expect it to make boost anyway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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