

Steering wheel adj will not stay locked
#1
Posted 22 March 2002 - 09:24 PM
I've done this on 3 StarQuests so far and it works like a charm every time.
What? He's still around?
#2
Posted 23 March 2002 - 01:25 AM
The real problem is a design change to the column deep under the dash - Mitsu did something for the 88 model year and they goofed. There is some beefy metal part that keeps the inner mechanism from going back as far as it's supposed to - "over center" to the locked position. If you really want, you can pull the steering column down a bit and see where things bind and cut/file the offending spot.
mike c.
#3
Posted 23 March 2002 - 04:14 PM
QuiL
#4
Posted 23 March 2002 - 05:22 PM
& i went out to the garage & tried it... the next day i test it & the son of b#@! worked! thanx again...
drgns88quest. 8) 8)
Don't concetrate on the finger or you will miss All That Heavenly Glory... BRUCE LEE 6/20/73
#5
Posted 23 June 2002 - 12:49 PM
thanks
#6 Guest_surferdude_*
Posted 29 June 2002 - 10:12 AM
Thanks,
Derek
#7
Posted 03 July 2002 - 05:34 PM
#8
Posted 23 July 2002 - 02:52 PM
#9
Posted 23 July 2002 - 08:23 PM
I'm going to try and explain this as best I can without pictures, but can add some tomorrow if you guys need them.
First, take a look under the steering wheel and you'll see the culprit... See the t-handle with a nut locking it in place? Follow it down the rod and you'll then see a round black piece with threads on the outside of it, in which the rod slides in and out of. This is as far as you need to go for this fix (other than driving down to Home Depot). Remove the T-handle (says TILT STEERING) by loosening the 10mm nut butted up against it and bring that nut with you to Home Depot. You'll have to go there and get 2 things; One will be another 10mm Nylock nut,and the other is a 3/8" compression cap. You'll find the compression cap in the plumbing section with the other brass fittings. It's just a Hex brass cap with threads on the inside of it. They have 2 styles though!!! You want the cap with no hole in it! Once you have those pieces you can go home and find a 9/32" drill bit and drill a hole in the center of it. There should be a dimple on the insode of the cap right in the center to use as a center for the drill. Once you drill the hole you simply go out to your car and push the rod in to lock the steering, and put the original nut back on until it just barely bottoms against the black piece. Now slide the brass cap over the rod and screw it onto that black piece with the threads on it, put the Nylock nut on and screw down leaving room for the brass cap to spin and then screw the t-handle back on and adjust the nut so that it tightens up and leaves the handle in the proper position. That's it!!! Now when you want to adjust the tilt, loosen the brass cap pull the rod out and relock at the desired position, push it back in and screw the brass piece down again.
Let me know if you need pictures. I'll get them for you tomorrow. I think you'll see what I mean if you go out to your car and look though.
#10
Posted 24 July 2002 - 11:27 AM

#11 Guest__*
Posted 24 July 2002 - 02:16 PM
Andrew
#12
Posted 24 July 2002 - 05:10 PM
What? He's still around?
#13
Posted 22 October 2002 - 03:33 PM
#14
Posted 23 December 2002 - 11:00 PM
87 TSI MPI
98 cirrus (daily)
94 Silverado 6.5 Turbo Diesel (monster workhorse)
01 Kawasaki ZR7-S
#15
Posted 26 December 2002 - 09:38 PM







87 TSI MPI
98 cirrus (daily)
94 Silverado 6.5 Turbo Diesel (monster workhorse)
01 Kawasaki ZR7-S
#16
Posted 11 July 2003 - 03:20 PM
#17
Posted 07 September 2003 - 09:54 PM

MOPAR POWERED
#18
Posted 11 September 2003 - 08:29 PM
I eventually took out the very bottom cotter pin and and pulled the arm off (you'll understand better if your looking at the setup). Now the setup doesn't work at all. but if you press it in to the locking position and then use your fingers to push the very very tippidy top arm up it should get real snug and hard to move the steering wheel.
now thats just to show you how it should be or how mine was. I think mine was kinda worn out anyway. now what i did was pull down on the middle arm to unlock it then pull out on the tilt steering knob itself (if you don't do it in that order it wont unlock). Now that very bottom arm is free and can be moved around so i tried resting it on top and to the left a little of the old pin it used to rotate on. i got a small screwdriver likle a stubby or something and put it in the hole at the bottom of the arm to hold it in place, then i pushed in on the tilt steering lever. It should lock better than before. ( i dont know mabey this only happened to my car ???). if yours locks completely which mine didnt in this spot then this is where you need to stop and skip down some. for those that didn't, keep reading. Like i said mine didn't lock completely so i tried a different spot which became difficult because i had nothing to rest it on while i locked it. I unlocked it either by holding it down tight with the screwdriver and pulling the knob out or pulling down on the middle shaft (watch your fingers its a great pinching space). I then moved it up the left side a little bit so it was no longer resting on the old pin. i held it in place with a srewdriver and locked it, to my surprise it locked tight i could pullmyself out of the car with it

Now you have to drill a hole through the original hole on the bottom arm in the place where it locked best for you. (use the hole in the arm as a guide for where to drill through the piece of metal behind it and watch out for wires behind that). after the hole is drilled i just grabbed a small bolt and some nuts that fit it from a bucket downstairs and bolted it on but leaveing enough room to spin. if it doesn't lock all the way dont force it. i had a problem after i got it bolted in because i could get the exact same spot that i had before. So mine doesn't lock completely if i push the steering wheel all the way up but if i move it down slightly and then try to lock it, it locks just right and doesn't move.
I am warning you though if you happen to screw up and drill the hole in the wrong place there is no second chance, theres just no room for 2 holes so make the first one work(or youll be stuck with it back in the orginal spot). i would also wait for me to give mine some time. if something goes wrong i definetly dont want it to happen to a bunch of others too. feel free to ask any questions except for pics because i dont have any, i can try to explain it better if you have a specific part you dont undrestand. i hope this helps and i hope no problems arise.
#19
Posted 28 September 2004 - 11:13 AM
~Adam
My body lay, but still i roam...
#20
Posted 28 September 2004 - 04:36 PM


88TSi-S16G~19x8.5's/19x10.5's~Anti-M-Power~S&M~FIP TBpro2R~E46 projector HID's/Fogs
2001 IS300-GTE swap~T04E 60-1 Garrett hifi~18" Volk CE28N~Tein Comfort Sport coilovers~TurboEast~PFS~Apex-I~Greddy~Blitz
2005 LS430-Staggered 20" Maya/Trafficstar DTS'~14k/12k Extreme Drop BC Coilovers~KYOEI-USA Representin...Bippu Status.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users