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Steering Coupler replacment U-Joint Update #7 9/27/14 4th page


BC_99
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Ok guys, I have some (possibly) very good news for the community. I just got home from my local performance shop that is a dealer for a major steering components manufacturer, and it looks very promising that they can, and will, make us a direct U-joint to replace the NLA steering coupler that is wearing or worn out on a lot of our cars.

 

I have taken apart one of my old steering boxes and removed the input shaft for it (that part the steering coupler bolts to) and taken it to my contact to be sent to them for a CAD scan for the tooling process. I am going to have to do that again so they have multiples, of the same part for scanning, to get the best CAD model possible. I also plan to send the 2 of my steering shafts for the same process. I need a 3rd set from a member to have 3 good sets for scanning. I think I may have this taken care of, but always want a backup plan if that falls through. I also plan to send them one of my good steering couplers for measurement purposes also.

 

I don't have a price yet, but I am hopeful that it will be tentatively in the $150-$200 range. I'm guessing on the high side of what I think they will come back with. I have been contacted by a few of you guys since I mentioned this awhile back and just want to get an accurate idea of how many of you guys would really be in for this. This will be a high quality part that can be relied on for years to come, and will hopefully be available for a long time to come.

 

As in the past, when it comes time to place the orders, and I have a true price shipped to your doors, I will require a non-refundable deposit (usually around half of the total cost) to get your name on the list. However, if something happens that the manufacturer or I cant come through with this for you, your deposit will then be refunded. If you get your name on the list and then cant come up with the funds to complete the deal, I will not offer a refund. I will, however, hold that deposit until you can complete the agreed upon transaction. Or, you can sell your place on the list to another member for the cost of your deposit, and he/she can complete your order with me. Please be courteous with me and each other regarding this, and keep any criticism or debates about the viability of this part to PM's. With me or each other.

 

Ok guys, to keep this thread from turning into a long 20+ page thread that is difficult to recall anything from, please PM me with true interest in this part, and how many you might want, and I will start a list of potential buyers. If you have a question that may be something others would ask, please feel free to ask it here, Just keep the debates out of this thread please. This first list doesn't commit you to anything other than giving me a rough idea of how many we may be looking at to start. I wont ask for a dime from any of you until I have concrete proof that this is going to happen.

 

Thanks for any interest you may have and as always, feel free to PM me about any concerns. Cheers,

 

Potential Buyers

 

Import Warrior- 1 u-joint

speedyquest- 1 u-joint

JRToy4x4 1 u-joint

turbocary 1 u-joint

BuGG 2 u-joints

boosted92 1 u-joint

PDodson 1-2 u-joints

slowquest 1-4 u-joints

Kidmen 1 u-joint

Alsandr 1 u-joint

Taz 1-2 u-joints

Walker 1 u-joint

Aman 1 u-joint

jszucs 1 u-joint

Swhirstein 1 u-joint

Martsubishi10 1 u-joint

Natedog_37 1 u-joint

Screemineagle 1-2 u-joints

Tankbob 1 u-joint

D_Venable 1-2 u-joints

SOTTY 1 u-joint

Fuzzydicerule 1 u-joint

fresnog54b 1 u-joint

Eirewolf 1-2 u-joints

Crazy Quest 1 u-joint

 

BC_99

 

Ok guys, I'm going to use this space for updates as well as a walk through on removing the old coupler and fitting the new u-joint as I go through the processes myself. I will try to take lots of pictures and give the best advice I can for you guys and gals. I'm sure some of you have been through the things I am working on so if you have any tips or advice of an easier way or something I am missing, please let me know so I can add that into this write up.

 

So, to start off with, my good friend Scotty Gibb was kind enough to donate a steering box for this project and that is where I will start. I parted a car recently and decided to use the drivers side of the firewall, front frame rail, and steering column mount area to use for a bench testing jig.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140529_184543_zps892de9d9.jpg

 

I got it all cleaned up and remounted the steering column and put an OEM coupler back on it to make sure everything would line up properly for test fitting the new joints. Then I went ahead and installed the box that Scotty sent me and tightened it all together.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_183240_zpsb4ea053d.jpg

 

Ok, This is what you guys and gals will be starting with sort of. Obviously it will be much easier on the bench with no engine in the way and all of the old grease and grime cleaned off of everything, but it will give you a good base to start from.

 

So here is our OEM coupler. Yours will likely have a rubber boot covering it. Pull that boot back out of the way and this is what you will see.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_183252_zpse58213c9.jpg

 

Ok, for starters, take this bolt loose on this collar.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_183415_zpsd429179b.jpg

 

Remove the bolt and slide the collar down over the steering box input shaft like so.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_183453_zpse7b54d3e.jpg

 

Then you will have to take these 3 bolts/nuts out to let the steering box slide away from the coupler. You may have to also remove the steering link from the pitman arm, but Im not sure about that as I don't have that hooked up to try.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_183514_zps94555301.jpg

 

Once you have the steering box separated from the coupler, its on to the Coupler removal. Start by removing the lower snap ring that keeps the gold colored ring in place. A very small screw driver or pick works well for this.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_183642_zps362c6f70.jpg

 

Then the gold ring should just slide off of the coupler and reveal the ends of 2 dowels that hold the main coupler body on to the inner ring.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_183739_zps1748e7ba.jpg

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_183757_zps612a8894.jpg

 

Now, these dowels are just pushed into a hole on each side and need to be removed with a good strong magnet. However, I learned after fighting with one for hours that there is a spring inside of the coupler that puts pressure forward on the whole assembly to keep it all held in tight. So, you will need to push the coupler towards the firewall to take the pressure off of everything to remove the 2 dowels. It takes a few minutes to get the feel for it, but when you get the right amount of pressure, they will just pull right out with a decent magnet.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_183839_zps47eb4e0e.jpg

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_183825_zpsd1b18d30.jpg

 

Get them both out and the main part of the coupler will come right off in your hands.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_183917_zps766bc62b.jpg

 

And here you can see the spring I mentioned earlier that is down in the middle of the coupler.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_183949_zpse36956eb.jpg

 

Now for the hard part. The inner ring is still there and yours will be covered in old sticky smelly grease. It will also have a longer pin through it holding it onto the end of the steering column. Wipe all of that old grease off of there as much as you can and this is what you should see.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_184006_zps8e420537.jpg

 

From here it is up to you...I don't recommend a hammer and punch be used at any point in this procedure. Exercise PATIENCE!!! You could easily bend the steering shaft and cause yourself a lot more headaches. However, this pin is a press fit! Meaning it fits with ZERO tolerance through the end of the column. So, it isn't gonna just fall out. I had to get inventive and make a special set of pliers to remove it. I will investigate whether or not they actually make a tool for removing these kinds of pins and if I find one, I will post a link to it here. But, here is what I made with some old c-clamp vise grips and some scrap metal and an old bolt and washer. With a little time and trial and error, I fabbed up a solution for myself.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_202001_zps04871143.jpg

 

I know it looks pretty gross and medieval, but it works. You need a pin side to push the press pin out of the steering shaft (I used an old 1/4" bolt cut to length), and a loop or recess for it to pass through on the other side while still holding onto the inner coupler ring. (I used an old 7/16" large flat washer with a chunk cut out). I then welded tabs onto the ends of the washer where it was cut out to hang onto the backside of that inner coupler ring. (before that it just kept slipping off the ring).

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_202016_zpsbad90ef4.jpg

 

But, once I got through all of the trial and error, Success!!!

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_192718_zps7cee6cdf.jpg

 

You can see here how it works (inner ring not pictured) or at least get an idea.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_202034_zps38ddeddb.jpg

 

Now, back to the project at hand. You have a ring left on the steering shaft with no pin holding it, so just turn the ring 90 degrees either way and it should just slip right off of the end of the shaft.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_192737_zpsfbd0d568.jpg

 

Wipe away the grease and you will be left with this shaft with an 8mm hole in the end.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20140610_192758_zpsa2efedb4.jpg

Edited by BC_99
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So, now you are ready to install your new U-Joint. Here is what it looks like.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20141027_183214_zpszgilziw2.jpg

 

Now remove that bolt and back those set screws all the way out with an 1/8" allen wrench, but keep them all in a safe spot.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20141027_183503_zpsatgamdeq.jpg

 

Locate the splined end that fits the steering box

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20141027_183242_zpsy0tlslmn.jpg

 

Now slide the new U-joint onto the splines until you can look through the set screw holes and see the detent ring where the old coupler lock ring bolt fit into it.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20141027_183340_zpsppxrv9tc.jpg

 

It may be a tight fit, or you may have some splines that are scuffed up a bit. You may need to address that with a small file. If the splines look good but it still wont slide on, you may have to "persuade" it to slide onto the splines of the steering box. Here is what I use.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20141027_184032_zpseq4seyki.jpg

 

Do not use a steel hammer!!! Use a soft brass hammer, or a rubber mallet or a soft plastic dead blow hammer like this one.

 

Now, Slide the other end of the U-joint over the steering shaft end and get it somewhat close to the hole in it and the shaft being lined up. It will be a tight fit!

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20141027_183553_zpsaxkqdadp.jpg

 

Slide the steering box bolts in the frame rail back through the box and start the nuts on them but do not tighten them down yet.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20141027_183630_zpsv1qqnepi.jpg

 

Double check that the holes are still close to being in line.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20141027_183713_zpsx83fuw4v.jpg

 

Now try to install the bolt. Again, it is TIGHT FIT!

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20141027_183836_zpsh75z69bu.jpg

 

If it doesn't go in, you can rotate the steering to see if it needs to pry one way or the other.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20141027_183849_zps36quxyhb.jpg

 

I do not recommend using a hammer to just drive it on home. If everything is left loose you should be able to eventually get it in. You may have to use a small screw type c-clamp to pull it on through, but be patient and persistent and you will get there.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20141027_184109_zps39t2utfk.jpg

 

Now you can put the nut on the bolt and tighten it up.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20141027_184153_zpsukkqxc69.jpg

 

When tight, it will still have some space between the nut or head of the bolt and the U-joint body. This was the closest size shoulder bolt I could get in stainless steel for this.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20141027_184219_zpso3grnxd4.jpg

 

Now you can re-install and tighten up the set screws. I suggest blue medium strength Loctite on them, but that is your choice.

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20141027_184245_zpsja0fjoh2.jpg

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20141027_184322_zpst1na5op0.jpg

 

Don't forget to tighten these steering box bolts when you have everything installed

 

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/Steering%20u-joint%20stuff/20141027_184507_zpsgmgeybl4.jpg

 

Also, one more little note, The entire steering column is adjustable front to rear. If you find that you just cannot make this fit, you may try loosening the 4 bolts under the dash that hold the column in place and that will give you about an extra 1/4" of front to back adjustment.

 

BC_99

Edited by BC_99
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I'll be watching. $$ seems a little high but if I needed one I'd pay up.

 

I am guestimating on the high side, rather than aiming low and having a lot of disappointed peeps when I get actual true numbers. I'm hoping the real number will be much lower. Maybe not as low as you can buy a readily available 3/4 x 3/4 smooth bore u-joint now (which is around $60-$75) but closer to that mark. I just realize that they are going to have tooling costs involved with this and that we will have to eat some of those costs with these units, being that they are made specifically for us.

 

I'm down. If this set were to be made would the price drop on future purchases if it works and can be readily available?

 

It will work, but likely the price will be the price. I cant guarantee immediate availability after the first batch. This is a major steering component manufacturer with many "bigger fish to fry". They have been in the performance steering parts market for over a decade that I know of. I was honestly astonished when my contact told me today that they " No, they don't have the exact right parts to make these but, they will tool up and custom make what we need", specifically for this community. So, after the first batch are done, it may be 6 months or a year before they will run another batch for me. I guess it just depends on the demand like everything else in this world.

 

I will likely have to buy around 25 or more of these up front to get it to happen, but I am willing to do that, to assure this community that we will have something to replace a NLA part, long term. I am quite positive that I will be the only person selling these for this specific market, so I am comfortable taking this risk.

 

I will get the first one and test fit it on one or more of my cars, to make sure it works like it should and I may also, have one of the local SQ peeps bring their car over and do a test fit and road test with the prototype, before we do a full run. Knowing the background of the company that is building these for us, I feel completely confident that it will be a long lasting and very durable part, that everyone will be very happy with.

 

Great thoughts so far guys, keep em coming.

 

BC_99

Edited by BC_99
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hey BC count me in, 1 maybe 2

 

Gotcha on the list PDod, thanks for the interest and support.

 

To Everyone:

Guys, I know the price estimate seems high, but like I stated, I am hopeful that it will actually be much lower than that. For a comparison though, the last new OEM steering coupler was sold on here for quite a bit more than that.

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=138502&hl=%2Bsteering+%2Bcoupler

and another new one here for even more money.

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=136241&hl=%2Bsteering+%2Bcoupler

 

I have 3 very good condition used OEM couplers, that I wouldn't sell for any less than I am hoping to sell these new U-joints. So, for comparison, even if they do end up being in the $150 range, that is still at least $100 less than what a new OEM coupler has been selling for, if you can even get your hands on one.

 

BC_99

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Are these exact replacements or a flexible u-joint style coupler? Pictures of said replacement coupler?

 

Per the thread title, it is a U-joint also known as a universal joint. I cant post a picture of something that hasn't been made yet, however it will look almost identical to these https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1600&bih=775&q=steering+u+joint&oq=steering+u&gs_l=img.1.0.0l6j0i5l4.1068.3412.0.6004.10.9.0.1.1.0.139.988.2j7.9.0....0...1ac.1.42.img..0.10.991.aNFh0G7qkoE

 

but will bolt right in rather than having to be welded and fabricated, ect.

 

BC_99

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Update time.

 

I stopped by and spoke with my guy on these today and dropped off the other parts he needed. The good news is that he reaffirmed my thoughts that these probably will not be as expensive as I first suspected. So, for you guys watching and hoping for a lower price point, I think we all may get your wish. It's also good news for the rest of you guys that were on board that know what I already think. These will become the only viable, bolt in option as the OEM couplers continue to deteriorate with age and wear, and become harder and harder to find in useable condition. I am still looking for one more steering box, or even better the splined steering box input shaft that the coupler slides over and clamps to. Anyone with a car being parted out or that has an old junk steering box laying around, I am interested.

 

Thanks for all of the support and kind words so far guys and gals. I hope to have more information in the coming weeks. I have tried my best to keep the list updated and if I have missed anything, please let me know. As always with any thoughts and concerns, please feel free to pm me.

 

BC_99

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Sorry to do this but I have to back out. :( my oil pump died today and I have a click clack luckvalve train and metal I'm the oil now :( gonna be outta commission for a while. I'll keep you posted!

 

Hey man it happens. I will keep you on the tentative list. It's going to take some time and R&D to get this into full production, so you have some time. Good luck with your car and I will be starting another pre order list when we get to that point.

 

BC_99

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