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'86 won't run right


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#1 stesir

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Posted 14 August 2018 - 10:49 AM

hey there:
I got an '86.. nearly everything about the car is new or rebuilt,  has the correct 1986 year components...
the motor is only able to start and run if you keep on pumping the gas pedal, in other words cannot get it to IDLE..
any help is much appreciated...THANKS!





#2 tux

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Posted 14 August 2018 - 11:03 AM

check for codes?  there's a 3 pin terminal by the air can.  Only 2 pins are connected, use an led to read the codes.

I had this issue w/ a bad MAF

#3 stesir

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Posted 15 August 2018 - 10:16 AM

I don't even know if my car still have that and I don't think this is an easy fix like that....

#4 tux

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Posted 15 August 2018 - 12:24 PM

it has that

#5 Matt888

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Posted 15 August 2018 - 08:07 PM

Letís run through a couple of items.  I have an 86 with low miles (less than 60K) and while the condition of the vehicle is very good, I struggled the first month or so to get it running right.  Very clear that the low miles were due to essentially parking the car, throwing a cover over it, and coming back to it every few yrs.  

Hereís some items to check:

- put a fuel pressure gauge on top hat and verify 36-38psi
- try different injectors (2 x 850s is what you need)
- full TPS reset paying attention to setting the idle screw correctly (You mention only runs when you push the gas pedal, which opens the throttle plate... could you have the throttle completely closed at idle?)
- injector clips...  find the clean wire on your injector harness and use new injector clips
- distributor: do you have a spare to put in?  Several things with a faulty distributor connection or signal could cause issues, though typically you can crank and cant start the car at all
- plugs:  pull them after the car wont stay running unless you hold down the pedal.  Maybe theyíre flooded by a stuck injector.
- swap out for another MAP sensor, IAT sensor as mentioned above
- timing:  this one will really mess you up.  Be certain you have it 10 BTDC or at least in the ballpark between 0-10BTDC

Matt

Edited by Matt888, 15 August 2018 - 08:10 PM.


#6 stesir

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Posted 18 August 2018 - 05:51 PM

View Posttux, on 14 August 2018 - 11:03 AM, said:

check for codes?  there's a 3 pin terminal by the air can.  Only 2 pins are connected, use an led to read the codes.

I had this issue w/ a bad MAF
Ok think I see it if it’s a round style plug it’s got something else with it I’ll take another look thx

#7 stesir

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Posted 18 August 2018 - 05:58 PM

Update
New spark plugs of NGk correct type were just put on after the high revving.  The timing was checked, the distributor is new, it has the 86 fuel injectors bought used but not tested, new Mitsubishi CTS the tps was checked but Iím not sure itís right. The injector clips were new also

Edited by stesir, 18 August 2018 - 05:59 PM.


#8 Matt888

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Posted 19 August 2018 - 07:39 AM

I bought a used 850cc injector off of here that was untested and it caused alot of problems for a day or two.  I flooded my engine on the first try.  Sent the injectors out to ultrasonic cleaning and flow testing.  Couldnt believe how much particulate came out of it when I got the photo back from the ultrasonic bath.  The injector also hangs open from what I’m told.  Its been posted on here before by others, but I will always get unknown injectors cleaned and tested here on out!

#9 Tim_C.

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Posted 20 August 2018 - 12:14 PM

I do own and drive daily, an '86 ESiR.
I suspect a bad MAF, but the advice so far is very good. Ditto to all that's been said.
I once had an engine that did the same basic thing. It turned out to be a clogged air filter. All I did was change it for new, and it ran fine after that.
Could be a clogged fuel filter. Checking pressure should reveal that.
Theoretically, there should be some 'slop' in the accelerator cable and a proper TPS/ISC setting allows for a proper idle. However, if you can't figure it out, you can adjust the cable so the throttle plate stays open manually. This can allow you time to diagnose the real problem by keeping it running on it's own while you diagnose. It sucks when you need one extra person to keep it running while you try to find the problem.
Could be a bad FPR.
Could be a vacuum leak somewhere.
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#10 stesir

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Posted 21 August 2018 - 03:21 PM

Found the test connector, many thanks for that. and it is doing a 1 pulse and 7 pulses. in tandem,  so I looked that up and says O2 sensor and CTS. so I had just put in a new oem Mitsubishi CTS right before ....but the o2 was new put in it's prob a Bosch 1 and correct for the car but I got a couple coming anyway..
As far as the other things:  BAD MAF- I know I put the correct '86 round plug in this a little bit ago, with the hard pipes in this you cannot get the aircan around it though..Fuel Filter-  Hmmm. going to have to look into that, vacuum leaks I got to post up some pics so you all can see...a bad Fuel Pressure regulator,  I'm not sure but been thinking about new trilogy turbo 1...I'm going to try some diff ECU's in it just in the meantime,  '86, 89. it really revved w/ the '89 ECU in it with the old cts...so I'm curious what it will do w/ the new oem CTS

#11 stesir

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Posted 11 October 2018 - 06:33 PM

Update: ok guys 1 thing this car being a 1986 is like every component is new or rebuilt, it is like almost having a new 1986 car
Some things though I should have gotten new but doing the best I can..no mileage on car with this restoration.
New fpr was put on, another fuel injector ballast resistor, front throttle body vac line moved to turbo wastegate instead of ovcp..
All the other things guys have mentioned are good except tps reset and suring up vac lines, fusible links ...

Ok it is starting every time, we bypassed fuel pump relay and it is doing the same thing, starts up but right away stalls out when you leave go the key from crank pos it shuts off...getting voltage to the coil in run pos ...it is not a bad fuel pump, we have good spark , new plugs the plugs were dry...the ecu is not the cars orig and I tried other 86’s and this 1 seems best but not sure of the grounding for it and know my fuse link red, green, brown wire aren’t right up by battery I keep forgetting that...thanks

#12 Evoz17

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Posted 12 October 2018 - 10:26 AM

I have an 86. And you have to do a proper tps/isc reset, tps needs to be set correctly.  Also I'd send the injectors out for testing and cleaning.

On another note you say you tried a 89 ecu with out swaping the engine harness to a 89 style?

Edited by Evoz17, 12 October 2018 - 10:29 AM.


#13 stesir

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Posted 12 October 2018 - 11:36 AM

The '89 ECU Plugged right in...it revved the motor so high all at once where you would have to pull out the key right away...

#14 Turbo Cary

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Posted 12 October 2018 - 03:55 PM

View Poststesir, on 12 October 2018 - 11:36 AM, said:

The '89 ECU Plugged right in...it revved the motor so high all at once where you would have to pull out the key right away...

Probably because the TPS reset would needed to be performed with the ECU not having the learn procedure done.

#15 stesir

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Posted 20 October 2018 - 12:59 PM

I had just posted in the looking for parts section...looking for a 86 ecu. It’s orig an 86 Starion w/ 88 motor but the parts all ‘86
But tried the 89 ECU in it again..before didn’t have about half dozen minor things done/improved on it, they were vac line moved to turbo wastegate from throttle body instead of on ovcp, new trilogy turbo fpr, couple correct colors fusible links put on near battery-green and brown...any way the 86 ECU Don’t Start the car it just cranks, the 89 ECU starts the car very strongly with high revving going 2500-3500 or higher all at once.  Then will pretty quickly lose it stalls out... but can catch it with the pedal.  I don’t think a tps reset has been done right on this car.  I have boostmini’s tps on it, new.




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