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Crank pulley replacement and more..


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So I started the tear-down of the front area of the engine compartment to get to the crank pulley. Found quite a few things missing bolts and stuff from what looks like a water pump replacement. Lots of leaks and questionable fixes.

 

 

Got the pulley off

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Lots of oil everywhere. Looks like the front seal is leaking. Not sure if I can replace it with the front cover on.

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Found some things hanging loose and some vacuum hoses capped off.

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Found these guys just hanging loose. I'm guessing they are supposed to be attached to the air inlet flange, that correct?

 

 

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right one here has top line capped off and the bottom line is not connected and open. What is it and should it be hooked up?

 

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This looks like it is broken, but I'm not sure. Pressure sensor I assume?

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The crank pulley can be found on the mazda b2600and dodge d50, or search for an aftermarket one 3xs makes one and Unorthordox Racing make one too. Mk1 also makes one.

Front seal pops out with a big flay screwdriver or seal puller.

Edited by JohnnyWadd
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thanks for all the info. I'll get a seal on the way tomorrow.

 

It needs a lot, but yes the pipe connection is horrible. Thanks for the lead.

 

It is an '86. Is that IAT sensor missing something? What is the hole for?

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Thanks. I found a reference to it, but wasn't sure since the other parts are long gone. Also found this. Probably a source for some of the oil everywhere. There's supposed to be a fitting between the oil line and turbo right?

 

IMG_20150317_152645786.jpg

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Yes that fitting is supposed to be there. I would buy another oil feed line from dad. That one is old and may break even if you get it to stop leaking. If it breaks when you are driving the oil can catch on fire if it hits the exhaust manifold.
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not sure how far your getting in to this. but if your trying to make it run great i would

get some good penetrating oil. spray the nuts and bolts repeatedly for a few days and

pull the exhaust manifold. get new studs nuts washers from dad AKA Enginemachineservice.com

have the manifold checked for cracks then have it surfaced and put it back on with a new gasket.

they tend to warp over the years and the one lower rear near fire wall always seems to loosen

or come out.

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  • 5 weeks later...

After a long hiatus I finally got to drive it for the first time today! I'm pretty pleased. It ran pretty well, little rough at idle, but seems to make decent power.

 

all in all I got the balancer / pulley replaced. Replaced the crank snout seal. adjusted the balance shaft tensioner. Got the radiator flushed and 2/3 fan brackets soldered back on. Made a bracket to replace the copper wire that was holding on an after market fan. Got rid of the added fan toggle switch. Replaced the bad secondary fan switch and a few other things. Still have plenty to do, but it is nice to drive it.

 

I also replaced the A/C idler bearing.. turns out it is the exact same part as a pool pump bearing :rolleyes:

 

the P/S pump whines and makes all kinds of noise and works part time even though i filled it up. Maybe the pressure hose is collapsed internally. any ideas?

 

I also have a bad shake in the steering wheel at about 25 mph, but it goes away after that.

 

It also seems to be a little sluggish on throttle response... is that normal?

 

I also noticed that someone has already put Trilogy injectors in it. Not sure what other stuff should have been done to accommodate them, but I guess i have some research to do.

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If there is PS fluid in there it will foam up and likely leak all over. If you want to flush it with new you can take off the return line to the reservoir and put it in a bucket (be careful it comes out pretty fast). Start the car and start dumping ATF in the res until the return is dumping clean fluid. Then reconnect the line and fill things up.
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The only way I know of to flush the PS fluid out of the PS system is to disconnect the return hose fitting at the reservior, drain the system, reconnect the return hose fitting and refill the system with ATF; hook up a vent line to the PS gear box vent fitting and flush per the '88 FSM, page 19-11. You can also use psu_crash's method in reply #21 above too,

 

As far as the steering wheel shaking at 25 MPH only, the tire may be out of balance or the steering ball joint on the side that's has the "shaking tire" may be starting to go out due to lack of grease in it's joint. See '88 FSM, Page 2-22 for how to grease the ball joint W/O removing it from the car. You can go to Harbor Freight and get their box of assorted grease fittings and install the correct size for the hole of the plug that's on the bottom of the ball joint "cap." Hopefully the grease in the ball joint ball's grease passages isn't too crusty and you can pump the ball joint's dust cover/rubber boot full of grease. It is probably a good time to grease all of the other steering gear grease fittings too. If the grease fittings won't take grease, use a prick punch to pop the ball in the end of the fitting loose. The fitting "should" take the grease then. I'd also check the steering idler arms ball joint ends for looseness by turning/twisting the idler arm and the tie rod around their axis. They ain't supposed to easily turn.

 

If the shaking is on the passenger side, it may be that the steering idler arm's bushings are worn out and in need of replacement. Rock Auto has a rebuild kit listed for non - SHP Starquests - but the internals of the idler arm assembly are the same for both the non - SHP and the SHP ones. See '88 FSM, Page 19-39 for how to do the bushing replacement. I'd also check the front wheel bearings for proper tension adjustment and inspect the bearings & the bearing races for evidence of galling or crusty grease.

 

The rough idle may be due to the throttle body's shaft seals being worn out; injectors and/or their clips need cleaning or you have an air leak somewhere in the rubber tubing coming from the air outlet of the air filter cannister to the inlet boot going into the throttle body. Look for any loose hose connectors, cracks, tears, and evidence of dry rot. It may also be that you have leaky dry rotted vacuum tubing or that the tubing is hooked up incorrectly. Make sure that the vacuum nipple under the three nipples coming off of the throttle body has it's vacuum line on it. Also check the large vacuum rubber tubing going to the brake booster for evidence of dry rot due to 29 years of engine heat. Also check the vacuum tube coming off of the PCV going to the base of the TB for evidence of stiffness/dry rot or holes/cracks. I think the you can get a replacement from Dad (Randy). It might be a good idea to get a new Starquest turbo PCV from Dad too.

 

Sluggish throttle response could be a number of things. I'd check the vacuum advance by giving it the "Suck Test" to see if the advance lever smoothly retracts as you suck on it's vacuum tubing, hold you tongue on the end of the tube to see of the advance holds vacuum; then take your tongue off the end to see if the advance lever smoothly moves back to it's at rest position. Or it may be that a PO has installed a NON Starquest vacuum advance.

 

Do you have any error codes? See this link and the "88 FSM page 14-49 & 50 for how to take 'em and diagnose what their telling you. http://www.starquest...showtopic=28043

 

Or you may need to do a TPS/ISC reset/adjustment. See this Link http://www.starquest...hp?showforum=65

 

 

Have you checked your engines timing with a timing light yet? See this link for a discussion on how to properly do it for the Starquests. http://www.starquest...showtopic=28068

 

I hope that this helps you. Let us know what you have found and if the above basic suggestions don't help, we can suggest more things to check.

 

BTW - what is the boost reading on the dash ( I know it's not absolutely accurate but it is an indication of what boost is doing)when you have sluggish throttle response?

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

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Starfighter, thanks for all the info. I'll find the time to test some of these things this week.

 

I think I found the wheel wobble. The left front wheel is severely bent. I took it off beat on it with a hammer, accidentally knocked the single weight it had off and put the tire back on and put it back on the car.... no wobble at all. It'll work until I find another wheel.

 

I was wondering about the throttle seals, I do see some yellow coloring around the TB, which in another thread suggested fuel leaking past the seals. I also wonder how old the gas is in it. The PO parked it at some time (probably after he hit the curb with the wheel, haha), but i don't know when that was. It also has Trilogy injectors in it, I saw a couple posts about having to adjust things to make them work correctly.

 

I do have a missing hose or something on a small canister in front of the air cleaner can. it face straight up. There is also a hose barb on the MAF-to-turbo hose that is right next to the MAF that doesn't have anything on it. It doesn't feel like it actually is a through hole though.

 

I should have my Intake tube to TB connector this week, so I'll put that on and see if it helps.

 

The boost gauge is showing just below 7lbs at WOT. Once it is past idle, it runs nice and smooth, seems pretty quick and make no funky noises. It is a blast to drive.

 

I'll report back when I get some more info.

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