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Replacing the alternator charge harness 8ga wire


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#1 87quest_stv

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Posted 05 February 2012 - 02:00 PM

i posted this up at another forum. Though it would be helpful here too.

Ok well I went out and pulled the charging harness off the car. pulled it apart. saw that the main 8gauge wires were old and brittle. Went to home depot got some 8 ga stranded wire, from them and some terminals. 4awg terminal and some 8gaw terminals.   Cut new lengths identical to old. I also cleaned all the terminals going to the battery and the fuse links in link box 1 and 2 along with all the connectors under the relay box. I think PQ charges $100 bucks for a new charging harness I spent around 40 in cable and parts and a crimping tool. I'm happy with the finished product. I also would have taken more pictures in the assembly of the new harness but didn't think about it afterwards. Most of the these pics are replicated of what I did with leftover wire. Prior to doing this maintenance, I was getting 13.6 13.7 charging from my alternator to my battery.  I really thought the alternator was failing. After I completed this, I now get 14.2 - 14.3 charging

these are the ends where the 1 wire from the alt turns into 2 wires I'm replicating
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This is the 4awg terminals i bought to use for the crimp. I had to get this size cause it has a 1/4 wire hole to crimp.
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Here's the 8awg terminals I used for the alt end of the new harness
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here I cut off the ring of the 4awg terminal so I could just use the crimp side
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Here the wires are inserted into the crimp ring and ready to crimp
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crimper tool I used
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This wire and crimp are thick no way i was strong enough to crimp them all together with my hands properly
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nice and crimped. You might be wondering why no solder. Well the factory didn't use it. I figured I shouldn't either.
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Then used some self alamanating tape(non sticky) for just this crimp end. You don't want to use regualr sticky electrical tape or this type of tape to wrap the whole harness
. Neither these 2 types of tape really allow the harness to breath. When I say breath. I mean dissipate heat that it builds up as it gets load on it. Heat=resistance.
The factory didn't use this type of tape for a reason. this is a splicing tape. it is highly thermo resistant and provides major insulation. Thus perfect for a crimp connection.
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only covered the crimp area because this tape doesn't breath. See explaination above
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Now to the alt end to use the 8awg terminals
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Don't forget to put the shrink wrap BEFORE you crimp and tin
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Here is the atl connection end nice and neat
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I then rewrapped the bleadoff off harness to the new alternator 8ga harness back to factory spec using stretch and seal silicone tape
You can also see the double punch wire I made and attached to the outside of the new harness. Purpose for the punch wire. The main alt wire from the alternator
turns into a split the wire with the ring eye that hooks to the battery through the 16ga fusible link surface charges the batter. While the other wire goes into the large
conenctor that powers the IGN and ACC through the sub fusible link box 1. If your system wires are old and corroded. like most are. the harness will short amp delivery from the IGN/ACC connector to keep the battery charged. So by installing the punch wire directly from the junction box to the alternator you, Get the right charge to your battery without
losing amps to the IGN/ACC
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stretch and seal tape. (this tape breathes and is non adhesive. sticks to itself) Now this is like what the factory used to wrap their harnesses. (the grey tape)
It's non sticky and it's not very thick. resistant to heat and allows the harness to breath while wrapped. This is what you use to wrap the harness back up like the
factory wrapping.
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I used the 8ga terminal to put on the alt end of my new harness, then used a piece of shrink wrap on the end only. You can also see my double punch wire I attached to the main  harness as what I believe is the way PQ described. Even though there weren't any pics to go by.
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This connector I removed the terminal from the connector and carefylly removed the crimp from the old 8ga wire then reattached it to the new 8ga wire and reinserted into the connector
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on the junction side of the new harness I slightly modified the hole to accommodate the punch wire, then wrapped a couple pieces of alamanating tape to keep it closed since Mine was broken and wouldn't latch anyhow
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Edited by 87quest_stv, 05 February 2012 - 09:57 PM.

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#2 Goddard

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Posted 05 February 2012 - 05:17 PM

Great write-up!  Could you please explain the different usage of self alamanating tape, stretch & seal and regular electrical tape and why you should use one over the other.  You also mentioned breathe-ability and I was wondering what that is all about.
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#3 87quest_stv

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Posted 05 February 2012 - 06:33 PM

Updated. i only wished I would have taken more pictures while I was assembling the harness. Just got so involved, taking pictures completely left mind. If someone wants to send me a harness to rebuild for them I'll take some more pics during the entire process.
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#4 81zfan

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Posted 05 February 2012 - 09:41 PM

Great work Bro!! Perhaps this could be in FAQ'S

#5 prototype78

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 09:49 AM

Awesome job....u should make more n sell them

#6 kev

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 10:02 AM

Great job...nice write-up!

#7 The Rabbit1

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 08:45 PM

if your following PQ's write up, then shouldn't you be using two fusible links from junction block to the battery?
Replaced: vac advance, Delphi injectors, all vac lines, tees and check valves, all brake hoses and pads, Master cylinder, flex plate, torque convertor, T-stat(180), CTS, TPS, both fan switches to primary, rear speakers, door speakers
Overhauled: Distributor, TB, wiper system, electrical ground connections, dash switches, auto seat belt tracks, entire auto trans, entire fuel system, A/C system
Upgraded: 1st gen Mas, HKS bov, Walbro 255lph pump, S16G Turbo and increased boost to 15psi, Aeromotive rrfpr 13105, MSD 8910 Tach adapter, Comp Cams Fireball digital ignition system, 35 watt HID headlights (6000k) 1000w 4ch amp, 100A alternator, engine to chassis to battery ground (4ga), charging wire from Alt to Batt (6ga), 2.5" Catalytic converter, Magnaflow muffler, R134 A/C, Yellow top optima battery
Added: AEM wideband, rail mounted fuel pressure gauge, dual alternator fusible links
Eliminated: Cruise, ABS, Emissions, Vac pump

#8 prototype78

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Posted 28 February 2012 - 02:11 PM

What size of wire would u guys recommend for the cs130 Alternator???....same 8gw???

#9 The Rabbit1

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Posted 29 February 2012 - 04:32 PM

View Postprototype78, on 28 February 2012 - 02:11 PM, said:

What size of wire would u guys recommend for the cs130 Alternator???....same 8gw???
I'm thinking of running one 6ga from alternator to fusible link myself with dual fusible links, anyone out there think it's a no-no?
Replaced: vac advance, Delphi injectors, all vac lines, tees and check valves, all brake hoses and pads, Master cylinder, flex plate, torque convertor, T-stat(180), CTS, TPS, both fan switches to primary, rear speakers, door speakers
Overhauled: Distributor, TB, wiper system, electrical ground connections, dash switches, auto seat belt tracks, entire auto trans, entire fuel system, A/C system
Upgraded: 1st gen Mas, HKS bov, Walbro 255lph pump, S16G Turbo and increased boost to 15psi, Aeromotive rrfpr 13105, MSD 8910 Tach adapter, Comp Cams Fireball digital ignition system, 35 watt HID headlights (6000k) 1000w 4ch amp, 100A alternator, engine to chassis to battery ground (4ga), charging wire from Alt to Batt (6ga), 2.5" Catalytic converter, Magnaflow muffler, R134 A/C, Yellow top optima battery
Added: AEM wideband, rail mounted fuel pressure gauge, dual alternator fusible links
Eliminated: Cruise, ABS, Emissions, Vac pump

#10 prototype78

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 01:59 PM

Ill go tomorrow to home depot and see if i can do these wires lol

#11 Shelby

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Posted 26 April 2014 - 01:12 AM

dual fuse links or an 80 amp new style fuse holder , eather way you have to increase the fuse  link current carrying ability
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