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Can someone diagnose this please?


conquestTSIguy
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Averse and I replaced the water pump and the crank seal on his car. When we got everything back together and went for a test drive this happened.

 

http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/ff47/samueljbaker/?action=view&current=005.mp4

 

If you go full throttle it starts doing it at about 2k. If you gently rev the engine it does it between 2800 and 3k. I thought maye the injectors but I'm not really sure. Please only helpful information. No negativity needed.

 

Thanks

Sam

Edited by conquestTSIguy
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Sounds like your secondary injector is not firing. I dont remember what RPM it is supposed to start spraying fuel but I know it is around those RPM #'s you gave. I want to say its at 2,500 or higher... Someone correct me if I am wrong. I had similar issues on mine when it was stock. I got home and popped the hood to find the injector clip had came off. So I ordered new clips!
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Mine was doing this exact same thing, found out my pickup in the dist was broken or loose causing a "chattering" at high RPM...resulting in a slight misfire.

 

I couldn't hear it with the hood down, and the car wouldn't accelerate beyond 55 or so.

 

Hope this helps in some way.

 

-N8

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Damn that paint was nice! These guys are steering you in the right direction. You can throw the timing light on and rev it up and see what happens if the timing starts getting wonky then you know its something in the ignition system. My bet is the ignition system because you are throw black smoke out the exhaust (unburnt fuel) and it sounds like a rev limiter. Check your plugs, gap, wires, and all wiring associated with the ignition system then crack that dist open and clean/inspect it.
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It's strange because the car air/fuel has run fine for quite a while now and suddenly started doing it after we tore it apart. My initial thoughts are that we must have bumped something loose like a spark plug cable or hooked up vacuum lines incorrectly. The car did sit for two weeks while I waited for a correct water pump to get to me.

 

I know the injector clips are not backwards because we never took them off and I have blue electrical tape around the wire to match it to the blue injector. I had the injectors flow tested and cleaned about 18 months ago at Witchhunter. Secondary normally fires in at 2800 rpm, I believe, YoungQuestFan.

 

I'll hook up the timing light and see what I get. Surprised no one told me to TPS reset yet :P

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TPS has no effect on what you are doing, its only a upper limit to disregard the 02 at wide open throttle and the same for low throttle so the idle motor can move otherwise it just sends back increasing or decreasing voltage to add or cut fuel and you seem to have too much so its something else. You got a BOV leaking? If you have a BOV with a weak spring you can find that out easy, rev the motor up just about where you are having this problem and hold the rpms there and put your hand over the BOV and see if air blows out. If with just a very slight lift or hesitation of the throttle it opens you need a stronger spring.
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TPS has no effect on what you are doing,

 

I agree, and I am still surprised no one asked me to do it yet, lol. I'd be surprised if the bov would suddenly go bad like that while the car has been sitting for two weeks without running, though. I would think that I would have had more intermittant issues as the spring weakened over time, although stranger things have happened.

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Maybe one of the intercooler clamps is loose. I've seen them tight, feel tight but the clamp wasn't on the tube just next to it then when driven pull apart under boost. Tug on the pipes and couplers. If you have a 1G MAF, did you plug the connector on upside down?
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Intercooler pipes looked over and looked over... other than the water pump, belts and intercooler pipes there was nothing unhooked on the car. Nothing to do with fuel, nothing to do with ignition or spark. Other than just something that became faulty while the car sat for 2 weeks, I really don't know what it could be. I've seen where the car just falls flat on its face but never the "rev limiter" feeling that his car is giving off. I was at wits end trying to run through my head all of the posibilities that it could be. I narrowed it down to fuel or spark. The reason it would rule out spark is because the car runs smooth up until X rpm. It idles smooth with no hiccups at all. That's why I (personally) think it is a fuel issue. I think someone did mention vacuum advance which is also a good possibility.
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That's exactly what I was thinking, just wanted to get some other views on it and try to narrow it down with more than two minds thinking about it. I'm sure we will try everything that has been suggested. Thank you everyone for your input and useful knowledge.

 

Sam

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If the secondary is not functional why dont you pull the ovcp at the tbi and switch the secondary to the front position and switch injector clips, pull the dist wire so no spark and crank it to see if it is spraying and or leaking. Even still injector clips are cheap to switch out regardless. Hope ya narrow it down sir
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19 replies so far and not one mention of replacing, or even checking the clips. It's an easy fix and a common failure. They don't have to have an incident to lose contact, they just do. I hate to be repetitive, but if you haven't addressed those clips and the injector terminals yet, make it your next step. As was suggested, pull the clip off the secondary and start the car. Is it doing the same thing or something similar? Bet so. That doens't mean the injector's toast. Most likely it's that connection at the clip. I've got the feeling you're spending money and wasting time when you don't need to.
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Well, averse brought the car over last night and we were going to look at a few things. We started by taking off the injector clip to notice if there was a difference. With the clip off, he started the car and no problems... put the clip back on, no problems! we get in the car to take it around the block and again, absolutely no problems. The car was doing nothing that it had been doing in the originial post of this topic. Tightened up a water clamp and called it a night. About 30 minutes later he gives me a call and says "guess what"... the car had been fine almost all the way home and once he got close to his neighborhood, the problem resurfaced. So now can anyone explain this??? Edited by conquestTSIguy
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When you had the clip off did it behave just like it had been? When you put the clip back on did anything change? My money's still on the crappy OEM 20 year old clip and the prongs on the injector being dirty. It's just like any other electrical connection. It can be fine one minute, then get a little warm (heat causes resistance) and peter out. Then cool off and be fine again. When mine failed I was driving just fine, then it sputtered and didn't wanna go, much above idle. Seemed to straighten out, then lost it completely on the highway. Changed the clip, all's fine. Your vid sounds XACTLY like what mine did. Revs fine....hits a wall.
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Clips have already been replaced in the recent past. Injectors have been flow benched and tested in the recent past. With the clip off or on when he brought it over last night it had none of the symptoms that it had last weekend. Was not cutting out with the rev limiter feel.
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