Jump to content



Secondary air issues


  • Please log in to reply
15 replies to this topic

#1 pcristquester

pcristquester

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,215 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Lakeside, CA
  • Interests:Family, fishing, Starquests and other unique cars. IPA and IIPA
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 19 May 2018 - 02:13 PM

Anyone familiar with how this is supposed to work/cycle? Mine seems to work/run when car is cold started, but when car is warm it seems to cycle off for an instant, then back on, repeating indefinitely at about 3-5 second intervals. I canít just ďrip it outĒ, since Iím in CA needing to pass smog test to register it. 25 year old rule doesnít apply here anymore. Even if I faked the visual stuff, the idle raises and lowers along with the cycling even if I disconnect the secondary air solenoid plug.
Posted Image





#2 pcristquester

pcristquester

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,215 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Lakeside, CA
  • Interests:Family, fishing, Starquests and other unique cars. IPA and IIPA
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 19 May 2018 - 02:58 PM

This cycling happens after warm and error code led is on solid
Posted Image

#3 importwarrior

importwarrior

    6 Quests and Counting......

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,104 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Manassas VA
  • Interests:Boost = 2KWIK4U
    Starquests
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 19 May 2018 - 04:40 PM

You can use a BB from a B.B. gun in the hose to plug it. Pull hose from nipple insert B.B. or 2 slip hose back on nipple.
Looks stock but does not function.

As far as idle hunting up and down. The ISC idle speed controller nose switch might not be grounding.
Loosen your throttle cable a little bit. And see if it still is hunting.

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP

Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!

Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!




#4 pcristquester

pcristquester

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,215 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Lakeside, CA
  • Interests:Family, fishing, Starquests and other unique cars. IPA and IIPA
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 19 May 2018 - 05:15 PM

Yep, throttle cable/nose switch adjustment did the trick. Thanks so much import!
Posted Image

#5 importwarrior

importwarrior

    6 Quests and Counting......

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,104 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Manassas VA
  • Interests:Boost = 2KWIK4U
    Starquests
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 19 May 2018 - 07:30 PM

Thanks for letting me know the fix worked.
I just had that same problem.

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP

Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!

Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!




#6 SA22C

SA22C

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 206 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Albuquerque
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 22 May 2018 - 02:34 PM

View Postpcristquester, on 19 May 2018 - 05:15 PM, said:

Yep, throttle cable/nose switch adjustment did the trick. Thanks so much import!
Can you give a few details on what exactly you did?  Im chasing a hunting idle issue myself and am unclear on the procedure youre talking about.

#7 pcristquester

pcristquester

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,215 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Lakeside, CA
  • Interests:Family, fishing, Starquests and other unique cars. IPA and IIPA
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 22 May 2018 - 10:33 PM

The isc has a nose switch that pushes in and grounds to a ledge of the assembly that moves via the throttle cable. If there’s not enough play in the cable especially when all heats up in that area, the nose switch may not fully push in telling the computer car is  at idle. A quick way to check it without messing with the cable is to get the car to hunt and put a glove on and reach down on there and push up on that assembly making sure the nose switch is fully engaged. When I did that, the hunting stopped until I let it go back via the spring and the hunting returned. I suppose a weak spring could also cause this
Posted Image

#8 scott87star

scott87star

    Technically Challenged, Daily.

  • Vendors
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,943 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mandan, NORTH DAKOTA
  • Interests:Freezing, thawing, thunderstorms and constant wind.
  • Model:Starion

Posted 23 May 2018 - 09:09 AM

Or corroded connections between the nose switch and the ECU, there is a connector on the firewall side of the TB that is the most common culprit.
Now selling true plug and play megasquirt!  Absolutely the best value in stand alone ECU's out there.

I can upgrade your Fuel Injection Pro firmware

Performance Coatings!  Pistons, manifolds, bearings and more!

Now a graduate of EFI University!  www.efi101.com

ECU Vendor link:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=137426

#9 SA22C

SA22C

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 206 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Albuquerque
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 23 May 2018 - 09:26 AM

View Postpcristquester, on 22 May 2018 - 10:33 PM, said:

The isc has a nose switch that pushes in and grounds to a ledge of the assembly that moves via the throttle cable. If there’s not enough play in the cable especially when all heats up in that area, the nose switch may not fully push in telling the computer car is  at idle. A quick way to check it without messing with the cable is to get the car to hunt and put a glove on and reach down on there and push up on that assembly making sure the nose switch is fully engaged. When I did that, the hunting stopped until I let it go back via the spring and the hunting returned. I suppose a weak spring could also cause this

View Postscott87star, on 23 May 2018 - 09:09 AM, said:

Or corroded connections between the nose switch and the ECU, there is a connector on the firewall side of the TB that is the most common culprit.

Thanks so much guys.

I know scott87star mentioned this in a separate thread and convinced me that this is my issue. I havent been wrenching on the Quest very much lately but I am going to attempt this later this afternoon. Ill report back either way for future reference.

#10 SA22C

SA22C

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 206 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Albuquerque
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 25 May 2018 - 09:23 AM

I did what you said and it made no difference pcristquester. I checked all the connectors like you suggested Scott87star.

I wonder if I have an intake leak somewhere.

This car makes my brain hurt.

#11 scott87star

scott87star

    Technically Challenged, Daily.

  • Vendors
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,943 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mandan, NORTH DAKOTA
  • Interests:Freezing, thawing, thunderstorms and constant wind.
  • Model:Starion

Posted 25 May 2018 - 12:27 PM

You can use an ohm meter and a pin to check if the ground signal is actually being received by the ECU.  At the yellow ECU connector the yellow wire/red stripe is the idle signal, pierce the pin into the wire through the insulation then measure continuity to the ground point next to the ECU with the throttle open and closed.  Closed you will (or should) see continuity or 0 ohms resistance.  If you don't you have more work to do.
Now selling true plug and play megasquirt!  Absolutely the best value in stand alone ECU's out there.

I can upgrade your Fuel Injection Pro firmware

Performance Coatings!  Pistons, manifolds, bearings and more!

Now a graduate of EFI University!  www.efi101.com

ECU Vendor link:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=137426

#12 SA22C

SA22C

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 206 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Albuquerque
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 25 May 2018 - 01:55 PM

View Postscott87star, on 25 May 2018 - 12:27 PM, said:

You can use an ohm meter and a pin to check if the ground signal is actually being received by the ECU.  At the yellow ECU connector the yellow wire/red stripe is the idle signal, pierce the pin into the wire through the insulation then measure continuity to the ground point next to the ECU with the throttle open and closed.  Closed you will (or should) see continuity or 0 ohms resistance.  If you don't you have more work to do.

Ill give it a shot this weekend. Thanks again for all the help!

#13 SA22C

SA22C

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 206 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Albuquerque
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 26 May 2018 - 10:31 PM

I was driving the car this morning and stopped at a red light. It was doing its normal "idle perfect, drop 150rpm for a second, return to perfect" ad nauseum nonsense....   For some reason I took my toe and gently pulled the accelerator pedal toward me.  The hunting completely stopped.  

The cable has slack in it and holding the isc nose switch didn't help. Why in the world would pulling up on the accelerator pedal make it stop?!  It's repeatable, and therefore definitely related to the issue.

#14 importwarrior

importwarrior

    6 Quests and Counting......

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,104 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Manassas VA
  • Interests:Boost = 2KWIK4U
    Starquests
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 26 May 2018 - 11:37 PM

Someone had a similar issue many years  ago. His problem was that the engine
Main ground to the block was corroded the engine started grounding through the throttle cable.
It was almost like arcing inside and built up a little causing a sticky cable.
A good cleaning and lube might help.

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP

Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!

Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!




#15 pcristquester

pcristquester

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,215 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Lakeside, CA
  • Interests:Family, fishing, Starquests and other unique cars. IPA and IIPA
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 27 May 2018 - 12:45 AM

Try backing out the SAS screw a turn. That helped me fix it for good vs putting tons of slack in the throttle cable
Posted Image

#16 SA22C

SA22C

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 206 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Albuquerque
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 30 May 2018 - 04:36 PM

Cleaned up the ground wire connections and I also messed with the SAS screw.  Its definitely better but still there.  

Im going to lube the speedo cable and perhaps run a brand new independent grounding cable.   If that doesnt fix the problem Im driving it off a cliff.




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users