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swifty

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  1. hello there i have a question. stated above somone said oil squirters are not necessary. my question is i have an older forklift motor that doens have them but is .30 over etc. i plan on going with higher compression and a t3 t4 turbo. do i need them or is it just for the track people. thanks
  2. with the connector in the glove box
  3. no i didnt but being its an old system i thought once it seen it was fixed it would atomaticly clear once it passed, how do you check the codes, to make sure im even doing it right
  4. hey guys i tried to check codes today and i got a 7 coolant sensor, i have change the coolant sensor and sender, both on the intake, my question is which one sets this code and what do you do to remove the code? or does it clear one the problem is fixed. has anyone else had this problem
  5. hey guys anyone know where to get a fuel level sender, i have searched everywhere and cant find one,, please help. this guessing how many gallons i got kinda getting old
  6. hello there, i got a 1g bov and pipe for like $10 at the bone yard, i was reading how to mod it but it didnt make sense to me, blocking the port and drilling a new hole and putting it to boost/vacuum source?, why cant you drill a channel from where the bov , valve is over to the port, same difference, right, well thats what i did and it works,but seems not to open unless you rev it high, or driving it in the boost, why. i have had many other turbo cars and the opened as soon as you got ant throttle. thanks
  7. no even after you let the car warm to about the normal mark it still takes longer to warm up but i will put the stat in the weekend and let you know thanks
  8. hello all, got some more problems with the recent 88 quest i got, fixed all the shakes and stuff, however when the car is cold well anything under normal temp, when you get in the boost it acts like it misses, but then if you let it go and warm up it is fine, note there is no thermostate in the car, gonna put it in next week. also i noticed one of my fuel injectors are leaking on the connector, should i change the seals, orings or what, any help would be greatly appriciated thanks
  9. ok the gauge doesnt work but the overdrive works fine in all temperatures, and if i ground the one leg of the connector to ground the gauge goes to hot, is it in the sensor its self, and is this the $76 one at advance auto parts
  10. ok on an 88 automatic quest my coolant gauge dont work if i jump the 2 wire sensor, on leg to ground the gauge reads full hot, is this the correct one for the gauge and,dows it do anytihng other than the hvac and gauge
  11. its not in the steering wheel,you can only feel it in the floor, andat 60 ish it growls , so im thinking its in the rear end,
  12. been tring to trck down a problem in an 88 auto quest, had a horrbile vibration fixed power steering, then found u-joints stiff, replaced them, and the great majarity of it went away, but its still there, i just put 4 new tires on it as well, so today i pulled the torque tube off the rear differential, and the shaft thats in it flops around alot, has anyone had any experience in the rear diff, and is that bearing supposed to let the shaft moare that much in the tube, it feels smooth when i roll it, any help is appritiated.
  13. ok guys an update, fixed the powersteering pump put the belts on, and took it for a drive and its gone, thanks for everyones help
  14. well i checked everything in the front end and the tie rod arms, center link strut rods and everythign are ok, lug nuts are tight,anyone every have the same concern with something other than tires and front end parts. i mean the car was in a wreck on the right front but only enough to bend the hood and fender no biggy, do you think the steering box may be the cause?
  15. hello i recently got an 88 quest and when you go 30- 35 and it shakes like the whole car is falling apart, however you can drive through it and it goes away, the car has the powersteering pump disconnected and the steering box has no fluid in it, all the front end parts are tight. we pulled the drive shaft out and found the u-joints were bad, relaced them and it continues, anyone else have this same problem, if so give me some ideas, thanks
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