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Crankcase Pressure/Dipstick Popping out


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#1 GoldStar

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Posted 11 September 2021 - 07:45 PM

So now that I got it running and driving with the new head, I'm starting to fix other stuff I've found. One of the things I noticed is, when I'm giving it the beans (i.e. generating boost) my dipstick will pop out and will coat everything around it with a thin coat of oil. I verified today that if I can keep it out of boost, dipstick stays put. Also found that I'm feeling a fair amount of outward air pressure through the oil cap hole with the cap off at idle.
When I installed the head and got it warmed up for the first time, the compression was between 144-150 PSI, and held long enough for me to walk the long way around the car to read the pressure gauge, so I feel like it's not a ring issue. I also checked the PCV in the valve cover, verified it was pulling a vacuum with my finger with the engine at idle.
From my research, that leaves my stock oil separator. I pulled it out, soaked it in diesel for a week, cleaned it out, and reinstalled; no difference.
At this point, I'm wondering if it's due to the way the separator is hooked up. Currently, the L-shaped port on the side is going to the valve cover, the bottom port is going into the oil pan, and the top port is open to the air due to the aftermarket cone filter/intake piping. Could this be my issue?
For the record, this is a symptom I've been noticing since I got the car. It's also running quite rich at idle most of the time (10:1 AFR); I'm not convinced it's related, just thought I'd mention it.





#2 TexasQuest

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Posted 11 September 2021 - 10:33 PM

Yes the oil separator is incorrectly installed. There needs to be a hose from the separator to the air intake boot, not vented with a filter on it.
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View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

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#3 JAinsworth

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Posted 12 September 2021 - 06:36 AM

The o-ring on the dipstick get brittle and is no longer pliant. I ended up using a zip tie and securing mine so it would not pop out.
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#4 Dad

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Posted 12 September 2021 - 06:57 AM

You can cut an old spark plug boot to help secure the dipstick.  Get that separator hooked up to turbo inlet. Pcv  shuts off during boost. Unless itís bad or not oem   Then vapors are pulled by intake pipe into catch can then drains into pan

#5 techboy

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Posted 12 September 2021 - 11:35 AM

I had mine pop out earlier this summer when I really got on it.  Probably the hardest boost pull I've ever done in the car.  I had oil everywhere.  It was a mess.  I think my situation was more due to the brittleness of the rubber holder on the dipstick than incorrect plumbing, but I came up with a simple solution:

I removed my dipstick ... got a small thin piece of sheet metal and made a little "tab holder" out of it.  There's a mounting tab on the dipstick that you and drill a hole through and use a screw or bolt to attach the tab.

Posted Image

I cut a recess in the sheet metal so it holds the dipstick in place.

Posted Image

Here it is in the car.  The sheet metal is pliable enough that I can just pull it back when I want to remove the dipstick.

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#6 GoldStar

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Posted 12 September 2021 - 05:28 PM

That's a good idea, I'll have to see what I have lying around that I can cut up once I get the separator sorted.

View PostDad, on 12 September 2021 - 06:57 AM, said:

You can cut an old spark plug boot to help secure the dipstick.  Get that separator hooked up to turbo inlet. Pcv  shuts off during boost. Unless it's bad or not oem   Then vapors are pulled by intake pipe into catch can then drains into pan

I'll try to get it hooked up there, but I'm not immediately sure how since the intake piping to the turbo is custom so it doesn't have a port I could use. Can't weld (yet), so I'm thinking maybe drill a hole+tap a threaded port, if such a thing exists?
If I figure it out, though, will that extra vacuum also solve the pressure I'm feeling through the oil cap at idle? Or should that all be taken care of by the PCV (given no blow-by)?

#7 tux

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Posted 13 September 2021 - 11:51 AM

they do have screw on plugs that you can use.  Check amazon, jeggs, summit, pegasus racing, and all those other usual suspects.

#8 Turbo Cary

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Posted 13 September 2021 - 03:11 PM

You could always use a stronger check valve in place of a PCV valve. I had the same issue on my Quest but never really bothered with it. I used a wire to hold the stick in place. I had debated putting a regular fitting in the pcv port (either tapped or welded) then running an inline check valve with high spring pressure in between the VC and IM.

Another option is to delete your PCV entirely. Use a dual can setup and a vacuum pump to keep the crankcase in vacuum at all times. If the stick keeps popping out then your rings are probably on their way out.

#9 croquest87

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Posted 13 September 2021 - 04:09 PM

I just used slightly fatter o ring for tight fit. All of the above mentioned will also work good.

#10 GoldStar

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Posted Yesterday, 09:49 AM

I do like the idea of the vacuum pump, I might give that a try later down the road when I'm really tweaking with the boost. For now I just want to try eliminating the crankcase pressure the way the car was originally designed to while working with what I got.
Now that I've done some actual searching for vacuum port solutions, I found this. Looks like it should work perfect to get my separator hooked up like it's supposed to: https://www.jegs.com.../87071/10002/-1
I'll also try finding a good O-ring for the dipstick. Unfortunately I won't be able to test anything soon; looks like I might have a fuel delivery issue preventing the car from running right now. I'll update once I get everything sorted. Thanks for the help.




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