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Homemade hydraulic handbrake


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List of parts and price

 

Willwood master cylinder $42

Brake line $20

Flexible brake line $23

Fittings $4

Clevis joint, pin, and cotter pin $11

Some random 5/8ths hardware that were lying around

 

Total cost $100

 

Tools needed

 

10mm wrench

3/8 wrench

5/8 wrench

Drill and 1/2in bit

Brake flaring tool

Line cutting tool

Welder

Cut off wheel

 

Drill press helps for making mounting holes for new master cylinder. Also for making hole for clevis joint to mount to original handbrake.

 

 

Began by removing all interior pieces around original handbrake.

Removed stock cables.

Cut and drilled hole for new point for OEM handbrake to pivot on. Done on two pieces of 1/8th in stock steel that has been welded together.

Welded 1/4in piece of steel to top of the original handbrake. This allows for it to be a pull brake like factory. If you wanted a push brake then it would be mounted below the fulcrum point.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t168/food28/ojvdijeo9p.jpg

 

I cut the factory seat belt mounting bracket so I can allow the new master to be mounted there. Slotted each side. Cut pieces of steel and drilled holes for the mounting points on the new master. Welded in place. I plan on installing a harness or building a new mount for the factory belt re-tractors.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t168/food28/oiuh.jpg

 

Drilled a hole in the tunnel for the brake line to come into the cabin. Cut line underneath the car. Leave enough line to pull through and flare ends. Thread into master cylinder. The rear of the willwood master is a odd thread. Not a standard size. 7/16th X 20. Installed a flexible brake line to change threads and make installation a little easier. Ran a new hard line from the rear of the car through all the stock holes for the original cable hand brake. Flared all ends and put together.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t168/food28/0823012146.jpg

 

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t168/food28/0823012147.jpg

 

Now bleed your lines and go dial in your clevis joint for the pull required to lock the rears. Mine has yet to be tested due to needing some new bolts that mount the master cylinder.

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That's what I was afraid of. How did you isolate the rear lines from the main master so it didn't just blow the fluid out into the reservoir, a line locker solenoid valve? I guess you could mount the arming switch on the end of the handle where the release button was but I like round tires far too much to do this.
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so are you still running the stock brake master cylinder for the front wheels? doesn't the line for the rears either leak everywhere or drastically increase pedal pressure now that you've sealed it off? I guess technically you could run one brake caliper to each master. Your effectively running 4 master cylinders now.

 

As much as I'm not into drifting, my new pedal assembly with a balance bar could just be adjusted to max rear brake pressure then I could get the rear out really easily via braking. I just figured you'd want power on sliding, not brake on sliding?

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so are you still running the stock brake master cylinder for the front wheels? doesn't the line for the rears either leak everywhere or drastically increase pedal pressure now that you've sealed it off? I guess technically you could run one brake caliper to each master. Your effectively running 4 master cylinders now.

 

As much as I'm not into drifting, my new pedal assembly with a balance bar could just be adjusted to max rear brake pressure then I could get the rear out really easily via braking. I just figured you'd want power on sliding, not brake on sliding?

 

 

No you can't run just rear brakes or atleast not that well you need to study up on driftin techniques. Most of us high powered cars don't need to e brake but its still fun.

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As much as I'm not into drifting, my new pedal assembly with a balance bar could just be adjusted to max rear brake pressure then I could get the rear out really easily via braking. I just figured you'd want power on sliding, not brake on sliding?

 

Drifting uses a combination of techniques including clutch kicks, inertial drift (immelmann), and ebrake to start the drift. These are just ways to break the rear traction before hitting the gas. You need good front brakes to control a car during a drift, otherwise you pick up too much speed steering with the rear. The ebrake can be used to initiate the drift but more commonly you use it to keep a drift going, especially after a turn or two or when you lose some speed. People use the ebrake to keep from straightening out, to keep the rear from hooking up when you are in between turns.

 

There's a lot to drifting! Try doing donut around a cone and keep as close to the cone with your front corner as you can, you're going to have to use the brakes and throttle to maintain it. After you do that, drive toward the cone and initiate the slide around it, you're going to need the ebake at such a low speed and dramatic angle.

Edited by Fuze
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Well put Fuze.

 

Also know that this is a inline handbrake. Pressing the brake pedal uses the brakes the exact same as it would in a stock system.

 

Pulling the hydraulic handbrake will esentially seal the rear brake system. Thus not causing the front calipers to push the pistons out. This will cause fluid to push the rear pistons out only while keeping the front free. Now that being said there will be some loss of pedal if braking mid corner while pulling the handbrake.

 

Handbrakes make for slow speed control and manji and corner entry while holding a drift easier. It allows you to maintain speed better than trying to dynamic drift or power on.

 

 

On a crummy note I have been sent to Philly on work and will not be able to play with this until the weekend.

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I should have explained better. I have an adjustable brake bias pedal assembly. Your probably right its not a good set up for drifting, but I could if I wanted too adjust the bias all the way back, break traction, then adjust the bias all the way forward and control the drift. I wasn't talking about something that requires stopping the car to adjust.

 

http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=35&m=b

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Well put Fuze.

 

Also know that this is a inline handbrake. Pressing the brake pedal uses the brakes the exact same as it would in a stock system.

 

Pulling the hydraulic handbrake will esentially seal the rear brake system. Thus not causing the front calipers to push the pistons out. This will cause fluid to push the rear pistons out only while keeping the front free. Now that being said there will be some loss of pedal if braking mid corner while pulling the handbrake.

 

 

OHHHHHHHHH,... weird.. so its a single cylinder master, not a dual cylinder like the oem application?

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I should have explained better. I have an adjustable brake bias pedal assembly. Your probably right its not a good set up for drifting, but I could if I wanted too adjust the bias all the way back, break traction, then adjust the bias all the way forward and control the drift. I wasn't talking about something that requires stopping the car to adjust.

 

http://www.tiltonrac...list2&id=35&m=b

 

What you have is great setup and would def help in a drifting application. If you set your bias correctly you can make the car behave exactly how you want it. I got back into mine with all this inspiration, went a different way than what I had started months ago. Basically copied what they sell on ebay for $150. Still trying to find the holy grail of brake fittings to make this pos work... Josh can you re-buy all the fittings you just got for me? lol

Edited by Convette
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Can someone explain why this would be better than the OEM setup? My OEM e-brake works perfectly and I can lock up the rear tires with it any time I want. Even at freeway speeds. Not that I've ever really wanted or needed to but a split second test confirmed I could. That in mind the hydrolic conversion seems unescesary. So why is it better?
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Can someone explain why this would be better

 

sure. i will try....

 

My OEM e-brake works perfectly and I can lock up the rear tires with it any time I want. Even at freeway speeds. Not that I've ever really wanted or needed to but a split second test confirmed I could.

 

Nothing is better than "your" OEM setup. I guess the e brake cables are just as good as hydraulics though if you say they are. I wonder why mitsubishi didn't go with a all cable brake setup?

Try the cable brake with some sticky 245's on a clean autocross course or new blacktop. Does not work as good. Proxes TR-1 245/45/16's on my car will not break free nearly as easily as my 225/50/16 Falkens did.

 

That in mind the hydrolic conversion seems unescesary. So why is it better?

 

Same reason they dont make hand powered cable operated porta-powers, presses or car jacks. Hydraulic pressure far exceeds that of the human arm+lever+cable.

 

Can someone explain why this would be better than the OEM setup?

 

Because OEM is cable and this is hydraulic. Kinda like saying the OEM 12a is good enough just cuz it will break the tires loose, why get a better turbo?

Edited by JohnnyWadd
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sure. i will try....

Nothing is better than "your" OEM setup. I guess the e brake cables are just as good as hydraulics though if you say they are. I wonder why mitsubishi didn't go with a all cable brake setup?Try the cable brake with some sticky 245's on a clean autocross course or new blacktop. Does not work as good. Proxes TR-1 245/45/16's on my car will not break free nearly as easily as my 225/50/16 Falkens did.Same reason they dont make hand powered cable operated porta-powers, presses or car jacks. Hydraulic pressure far exceeds that of the human arm+lever+cable. because OEM is cable and this is hydraulic. Kinda like saying the OEM 12a is good enough just cuz it will break the tires loose, why get a better turbo?

 

 

What is your problem? Do you like being a jerk? You didn't actually answer my question you just made an arrogant response. My question was a reasonable one. If you took the time to read and comprehend I never said OEM was best. Quit trying to start fights.

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Now for the level headed people here. Your arm provides the force whether it's hydrolic or cable. The same force is applied to the e-brake handle regardless if it's hooked to a cable or hydrolic system. What will change braking effort is how that force is applied. IE mechanical advantage. The height of the pivot point will affect mechanical advantage. The pin height in the picture is shorter than the stock height so some mechanical advantage is gained there. But the cable system pulls on about a 1" lever at the caliper so some mechanical advantage is gained back there. The hydrolic system does have an advantage in that it has less friction because there are no cables.Then there's application of force. The cable system uses a large oiled screw to push the caliper piston against the pad where hydrolic uses fluid pressure against the piston.

 

It comes down to mechanical advantage, friction and application of force. Bearing those in mind can the hydrolic system apply more force to the rear pads. If so how much more? A significant amount or just a little more?

 

One more thought. You could greatly increase the mechanical advantage of the cable system by moving the pivot point on the e-brake handle farther inboard. Whether or not that would be better is up for debate and testing to decide. But that would be a much simpler way of increasing the E-brake's mechanical advantage.

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with a cable system your force is linear through the cable, however the cable is not perpendicular to the pads at all times, so not all of the force is translated.

 

Hydraulics are better.

 

TECHNICALLY, anyone who wanted to could replicate the system I have for around 700 dollars. The master cylinders were 90 dollars each (3 of them, one clutch and two brake), the pedal assembly 180, that bias knob is 150ish, the various fittings and lines are another 100-150, and then you would just have to build a mount like I have. I could give you the dimensions but then I'd have to kill you. Seriously though the mount I built is really simple, but very strong. The best part of this whole thing is that it is SOOOOO MUCH lighter than the stock set up.

 

The worst part is that I've yet to figure out how to attach the sensor for the brake lights in a clean manner

Edited by TsTKl
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The worst part is that I've yet to figure out how to attach the sensor for the brake lights in a clean manner

 

 

That's easy if you are trying to activate the brake lights when you pull the e-brake cable.

 

The Ebrake already has a ground switch same as the brake pedal. You can route that ground switch to the brake pedal switch output and the brake lights will activate when you pull the e-brake handle. BUT, you want the Ebrake switch to go through a relay that activates when the ignition is on. Otherwise when you set the ebrake the brake lights will be on indefinatly.

 

 

btw thank you for the intelectual response. I have my e-brake adjusted tight so braking starts to happen within the first 3 clicks. When I get around to buying some track day tires I'll test it again to see if it works. For now it seems to lock up a set of 245/45/16 street tires pretty well.

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What is your problem? Do you like being a jerk? You didn't actually answer my question you just made an arrogant response. My question was a reasonable one. If you took the time to read and comprehend I never said OEM was best. Quit trying to start fights.

 

You asked some to explain it so i did. Simple as that. The psi generated and held at the brake caliper by the hydraulic system is far superior and happens much faster than the cable. The cable is know as a "emergency brake" or "parking brake" because its for that. As far as the trying to start fights thing all i have to do is reply directly towards you and and you act like its a fight so thats your deal, not mine.I know you never said OEM was the best, and i never stated that you said that.

 

Read below

 

 

Hydraulics are better.

 

Whay he said pretty much sums it up.

 

 

It comes down to mechanical advantage, friction and application of force. Bearing those in mind can the hydrolic system apply more force to the rear pads. If so how much more? A significant amount or just a little more?

 

 

There is alot more to be said about the hydraulic brake and why its better. Do you know anyhting about brake fluid? It does not compress. Your cables have stretch and the pivot points down at the caliper have flex. That all equals less force to the actual braking becuase you have to overcome the stretching of two cables and there mounting points and the levers at the caliper. All your talk about mechanical andvantage and mounting point is useless. The ebrake system is limited by other things you cant just tweak the lever. It has limits. At what point will the cable housing anchor at the caliper bend, its just a little metal tab, same thing with the lever, its just a little metal tab, same thing with the anchor for the two cables it just two peice of thin metal. See what i'm getting at?

 

Your arm provides the force whether it's hydrolic or cable.

 

Ya think?

 

The same force is applied to the e-brake handle regardless if it's hooked to a cable or hydrolic system.

 

Right !! But force applied at the brake caliper is different

Edited by JohnnyWadd
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You asked some to explain it so i did. Simple as that. The psi generated and held at the brake caliper by the hydraulic system is far superior than the cable. The cable is know as a "emergency brake" or "parking brake" because it for that. As far as the trying to start fights thing all i have to do is reply directly towards you and and you act like its a fight so thats your deal, not mine.I know you never said OEM was the best, and i never stated that you said that.

 

 

Nothing is better than "your" OEM setup. I guess the e brake cables are just as good as hydraulics though if you say they are. I wonder why mitsubishi didn't go with a all cable brake setup?

 

 

Your hypocricy is showing. Backpedaling doesn't change what you wrote.

 

 

Out of respect to the OP I will not respond to any more of your verbal bashing here. You seem to have an attitude problem towards me. If you like we can discuss it like civilized adults in a PM.

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