Fuze Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 (edited) *UPDATE: With some trial and error I have modified this setup a little since this writeup. I have kept the smaller Krank Vent in place that replaces the stock PCV valve between the front of the VC and the TB, but I removed the fatter one between the rear of the VC and the turbo intake tube and now run an oil seperator in between. This is due to the lack of a need for a check valve in that location, there is constant suction there and never any pressure on that line. OK Fellas, This writeup features the KrankVent system, from ET-Performance. I love these kinds of mods because they are simple, and WORK well. KV's have been around the Starion scene for a long time, but I had never installed them before.. *Update: This is the Turbo "mini" kit. I looked into KV because lately on hard runs my PCV would fail and allow boost into the crankcase. The bottom end is also a little worn out, smoked a little bit, so.. getting some blowby. At the time, the breather setup was similar to stock: I had the stock PCV valve on the valve cover and a catch can that drained to the oil pan on the turbo intake side, with lines running from the back of the valve cover and to the turbo intake tube. The idea is that the turbo intake tube provides suction to pull pressure through the catch can from the crankcase (back of valve cover), and from the intake though the PCV under vacuum. The KrankVent parts just make the system work the way it's supposed to. The system consists of two one-way check valves, one larger than the other. They are sealed, precision high flow valves that allow zero opposite flow up to something over 75 psi or something. It's on the website.One KV connects inline with the PCV valve hose (basically replaces it), the other connects between the turbo intake tube and the rear valve cover breather port. You take take factory oil seperator can out, and plug the line running down to the oil pan. Doesn't get any easier than that! Now what happens is the KV valves only allow pressure to leave the crankcase, creating a constant vacuum situation. The vacuum is strong enough to suck the dipstick back down into the tube with a loud HISSSSSS-THUPP. No matter whether you are boosting or not, vacuum is maintained in the crankcase and there is a suction on the pistons coming down. The car stopped smoking almost completely (lol), the effect even minimizes any oil leaks because of the negative pressure on all the seals in the motor! http://waste-nj.com/d2/kv/kvfitting.jpgI replaced the PCV valve with this 1/8NPT to 3/8" hose fitting for more flow. Some people drill out the stock one, some leave the stock one alone. http://waste-nj.com/d2/kv/kv3.jpgThis is only screwed hand-tight but you get the idea. http://waste-nj.com/d2/kv/kv2.jpgEDIT* I have since removed this part as it was not necessary. This is the fatter KV attached to the turbo intake tube. Notice the flow direction, it's critical. I left a small length of clear reinforced hose to see if oil was being sucked in... so far, nothing. I reused the AN fittings from the catch can I had before. http://waste-nj.com/d2/kv/kv5.jpgYou can see the line running from the rear of the valve cover up to the intake tube, the KV is hidden under the turbo piping. http://waste-nj.com/d2/kv/kv4.jpgThere it is. This is the fatter KV. http://waste-nj.com/d2/kv/kv1.jpgThis is the smaller KV on the intake side, you can see the fitting that I replaced the PCV with. Notice flow direction... Works like a charm. Edited September 8, 2014 by Fuze Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taeisallin Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 did you use the "turbo kit"@139.99? or the "mini"@110 ? about or order a set for my self. was looking to do this. great write up. thankstae Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 What fitting is that on the turbo intake pipe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 How bad you want me to prove you wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obsolete Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 How bad you want me to prove you wrong?Ooh, I do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 On another Mitsu forum, I got laughed at for suggesting ET's KV kit. No one understood what it does and the whole "space age" description in their website din't do much for credibility either. I have a set of those, never installed them (procrastination mainly). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 in for the show.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted August 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 What fitting is that on the turbo intake pipe? It's an 8AN O-ring fitting in the pipe with a fat plastic washer, AN nut and some silicone. There's a double ended 45 degree 8AN coupler and a 8AN hose barb fitting connected to it. Stuff I had laying around, a 1/2" brass hose barb would have worked just as well lol.http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-220165b_cp.jpghttp://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/ear-939208erl_w.jpghttp://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/rus-670310_w.jpg http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=an%20fitting&dds=1 did you use the "turbo kit"@139.99 or the "mini"@110 ? This is the Turbo "mini" kit, sorry bout that I updated the post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted August 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 On another Mitsu forum, I got laughed at for suggesting ET's KV kit. No one understood what it does and the whole "space age" description in their website din't do much for credibility either. I have a set of those, never installed them (procrastination mainly). I hear ya, no big deal, people can run what they want. SQ "experts" used to say you couldn't run a 3" exhaust, couldn't run dual secondaries, and that changing the rims or slamming the car was a crime worse than murder. Who really gives a s__t?Haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 It's an 8AN O-ring fitting in the pipe with a fat plastic washer, AN nut and some silicone. There's a double ended 45 degree 8AN coupler and a 8AN hose barb fitting connected to it. Stuff I had laying around, a 1/2" brass hose barb would have worked just as well lol.http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-220165b_cp.jpghttp://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/ear-939208erl_w.jpghttp://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/rus-670310_w.jpg http://www.summitrac...20fitting&dds=1 This is the Turbo "mini" kit, sorry bout that I updated the post. Oh cool. I used the rubber grommet and barb style from verociousmotorsports. Yours looks sweet too. I think the fitting extending into the air stream is robbing .0004 horsepower though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383chevelle Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 (edited) I don't want to sound like an idiot here but how is this different then the stock system? It looks like the pcv is replaced by a inline valve(pcv) that goes to the same port on the intake. The the only real difference is that there is now a valve on the old oil catch can line. So whats the advantage. I read through the first post and still didn't quite get why this is so much better then the original system. I thought this was one of the systems that runs a slash cut barb into the exhaust and uses the venturi effect to pull a vacuum in the crank. Edited August 24, 2012 by 383chevelle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 You've got this setup to burn up your motor and I guess you just don't realize it. You're sucking oil into the intake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 (edited) You've got this setup to burn up your motor and I guess you just don't realize it. You're sucking oil into the intake. Shouldn't the first KV be used on the back of the valve cover where the large drain back is? (Commenting on the second KV)(The KV attached upstream of the MAS) If there isn't a canister for the Air filter with a drain back to the pan shouldn't it be routed to a catch can?I'm pretty sure you don't want oil anywhere near of the GM MAS wire,(if there is zero airflow it may drain back towards the sensor?) (Down stream of the compressor side) that is a mistake also,oil into the compressor/ oil into the intercooler(The stock system actually corrects this) I think the reason people get confused is this KV system is made for vehicles that don't havea strong PCV valve as was designed for our engines and in the begining when these were being marketed to our engines the OEM PCV was to remain and the first KV was used inline after,(because they were sold in sets and,it was redundant in order to avoid only 1/2 orders of the product) (Full sets could be utilized on MPI intakes) The second KV was attached to the rear vent of the valve cover andvented to atmosphere,(draft tube)but later recomended to be vented into a catch can/ the oil pan for emissions compliance. The key word here is Krank (crank as in crankshaft) Edited August 25, 2012 by Metric-man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nomofwd Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 (edited) The whole point of pulling negative pressure to a catch can is the intention that the can will separate the oil from the discharge before that air enters the intake stream. If your catch can is functioning properly then this setup will work fine and there is no need to tell someone that they just lit the fuse to their own dynamite. Now if your catch can is garbage or is installed poorly then yes you could be allowing oil vapor into the intake stream which aside from contaminating the charge piping and intercooler will coat the hot wire in the MAF and cause issues. The oil making it to the intake manifold and running through the engine isn't going to hurt a damn thing. Far less than the pressurizing of the crankcase had any sort of system not been in place. At least the OP had the presence of mind to impliment negative pressure to the system and not rely on the crankcase pressure alone to move vapor to the can and through a breather vented to atmosphere. Yes exhaust fittings work better for increased velocity and volume but anything is better than using pumping pressure and blowby from the block. And especially better than vacuum from the manifold alone that disappears the second positive pressure is achieved and negates the entire system Edited August 25, 2012 by nomofwd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 (edited) http://oi48.tinypic.com/ipvcxy.jpg This diagram shows an installation of the KV for a v-twin harleywhich was the original intent for the KV system to preserve the gasket integrity,owning to their reputation for leaking gaskets because,of the high compression of their large bore / stroke engines. The diagram is pretty simple and straight forward.Where as one KV is utilized with a tee fitting, two can be used.One for each valve cover port front and rear.The diagram shows the termination point for the KV hose(s) ,to the Air box or vented to atmosphere. The use of the throttle body port on the intake manifold from the front valve cover port,(PCV) was utilized because of the use of the intake manifold (negative) pressure,that is to bleed off excess cylinder head (positive) pressures . The valve flange inside the KV is different than the PCV design.The PCV has one added initial and that is for the word Positive.This means the valve shuts completely with zero or negative pressurethe KV does not need to do this for its intended purpose.This is why the PCV should remain attached,if the front port on the valve cover is still routed to the base port of the throttle body,in conjuction with the use of a KV device of that opening. Edited August 28, 2012 by Metric-man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts