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I'm looking for pics of rear seat delete converions...


AustinTSI
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I'm looking for pics of rear seat delete converions. I'm going to remove the rear seat area and install the following items but I would like some ideas on how to fit it all in a way that would look good and be functional.

 

* NOS bottle

* 1.5 gallon Meth tank for meth injection

* 2 sub-woofers (either two 10's or two 12's)

* 4 channel amp

* subwoofer amp

* 2-4 cross-overs

* small storage area for jumper cables, etc.

* a hidden area for things like a car-pc, alarm, etc., that can still be easily accessed possibly through the above storage area

 

I'm looking for either pics of something similar or just descriptions.

 

Thankx, David.

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Make the sub box the back were your seat was then mount all amps and ect to the box,nos bottle on the right and meth tank on the left.then for storage either use spare tire whole or pull rear washer bottle and use that for storage hope this helps/ideas.
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I can try and get a pick up. I am running a single 12 in a sealed enclosure with a 3 amp rack system that is hinged. It's also flush with the rear hatch floor. The internals of the amps are clear plexi and mounted underneath the amp rack so you can see the guts of the amps. It still needs vinyl covering but its a work in progress. I don't have a pic on the computer but will try and get one up for you. If you did it like I did, there would still be room under the rack for a nos bottle and plenty of other stuff, or if you were only running one amp you could do plexi but then have one amp on one side and have the nos bottle visible through the other side.

 

Tough to explain, again,will try and get some pics up.

 

L

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Your design sound very similar to what I was thinking about. Can you tell me how tall the rear seat area is once you make it flush with the rear hatch floor? I was thinking about mounting a speaker on each side right behind the front seats pointing at the back of the seats. But my car is in storage so I don't have each access to measure what size speaker I could put there if I still wanted it to stay flush with the rear hatch floor.

 

David.

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you will have to do some measuring, finals are over so I can some pics and post. The floor basically extends right to the back of the front seats. So the rear trunk area is basically extended, it's all one flat area. The plexi reveals all the goodies that are underneath. The rear seat are is basically boxed in. The total height just goes up to the level of the trunk floor so the whole thing is flat. I wanted it that was so I could put a cover over the plexi to hide the amps and sub. Then I could also still use the space to carry things like boxes or school books or whatever. It works out nice. Still have a big trunk area and space underneath for your NOS and tanks, amps, sub, etc. But, the space fills up fast. I have just one 12" sub enclosed to a cubic foot internally and it takes up 1/3 of the total usable space. It looks big but it isn't.
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I eliminated my back seat so I could fit 2 12" subs and a 15" sub with all my amps. The entire setup fills up pretty much the whole back area and only leaves me a little sliver of back window I can see out of in my rear view, but 3 big subs in these cars require some serious box airspace. I built it so all the subs fired into the hatch area for the best sound and also to have my rear mids and highs up nice and high behind my head. It left me with enough room to have a nice storage area where my back seat used to be. I keep detailing supplies, my trophies, and a build book and info, so I can pull all that stuff out at shows and such. Even with all that stuff in there, I have enough room for other stuff I want to keep hidden out of view and have a place to store stuff when I'm driving. Here's some pics....

 

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10126/9-10-11_040.jpg

 

 

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10126/9-10-11_085.jpg

 

 

 

Those are the finished pics, but they are a little blurry. I have more pics that show how everything was built as I was puting it together. You can find those pics here...

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=423

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Burton, I really like your layout but it is a little more stereo than I am looking for but your back seat area greatly influenced the concept of what I am looking for without the big woofers in the back hatch. I also don't want to go as high as you did with the amps.

 

Lance, I'm really intested in your pics because what you describe sounds almost exactly like what I had in mind. Unfortunately it also sound like it won't give me as much room as what I am going to want; which is why I want to see your pics.

 

In order to get everything in that I want and have a little storage room I'll probably do something along the lines of what Lance has described but have it raised up to the bottom of Burtons mids; or maybe as high as the tweets, but no higher than that.

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i will get some pics up tomorrow. I just found my camera, lol. I still think you could do what you need with my setup. If you had to, you could always mount something ontop like the nos bottle, but the sub, amps, etc. will easily fit under there. I have 3 very large amps and a 12 inch sub and there is plenty of room to spare. If i remember correctly, the cover was around 36 inches wide at it's widest point (the front, just behind the seats) and the length was 20 inches or so with the depth from the top of the hump, where the sub box sits, to the underside of the cover, is about 14 inches or so. So your talking about prolly 4 cubic feet easy. Should be enough to get in there what you want and still keep it concealed along with still having usable space on top.
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you going to inject straight meth? or 50/50 with water? ( i know this has nothing to do with what you asked ) reccomend 50/50 it is super cheap ( windeshield washer fluid ) and pure meth is highly corrosive
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As you can see, it's hinged for easy access, then you can lay it flat. I used a piano style hinge because if it's strength over long distances. That allowed me to run thinner wood on top for the cover to reduce weight and still have a strong hinge. When it is layed flat it completely flat with the trunk space making for one large flat area, great for carrying things that take up some room. There is lot's of space underneath as well. The hole on the left is for an identical amp that is being serviced. Then I will cover the whole thing with black vinyl. There will also be a removable cover for the plexi and sub so if I want to hide the whole thing I can.

 

The biggest pain was just getting the shape to fit the bolsters correctly. I just got stiff cardboard and started cutting until I got the proper fit, then layed it on the wood and went to work. It also ran a piece of aluminum angle underneath it to give it more support. Again, I was able to run relatively thin board on top (quarter if I remember) then I put the aluminum angle underneath to support it.

 

Hope that helps.

 

L

Edited by Lance_S
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Lance - that is almost exactly what I was thinking but I was planning on putting the subs behind and facing each seat like you have one of the amps. Can you take a quick measurement of how tall that area is. I'm trying to decide between either some Kicker L3's or JL Audio W3's but I need to determine if I can fit 12's or would I need to drop to 10" woofers.

 

DSMvirus1 - I'll be using the washer fluid. I got the following kit http://www.coolingmist.com/pagedisplay.aspx?pid=250PSIStandardTM so I have to find a place to mount that tank. I'm dumping the front washer fluid tank because my intercooler pipe will be coming up through there for my SMIM. I'll be running my front and rear washers off this tank also.

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12 inches tall and 16 inches wide BEFORE you hit the beginning of the tranny hump. Those are estimates, not exacts. There are a few decisions you will have to make. First, you could run 12's IF you mount them from the front. If you want to conceal them and mount them from the rear you won't have room, then you will have to drop to 10's. But with the seats back, you won't be able to seen them anyway so it doesn't really matter, just mount them from the front, throw some grills on them and be done.

 

I would suggest that you find a sub that doesn't need a big box. I am running the alumipro and it only needs 1 cubic foot of space. You could also go infinite baffle sub and don't use a box at all. Those are nice because you save weight and lot's of it. Especially if you go with 2 12's you are going to need tons of power cuz of the massive amount of cone surface, your car is going to pound. Mine hits really hard and that is with just one 12.

 

Also, if you are going to go with boxes for the subs build two individual ones, don't go with a big single box because you will need to get over the tranny hump. And you will save weight by going with two individuals vs. a single. Then you can mount the sub boxes to the floor with simple angle iron and run a fascia like I did. You will obviously have to cut out spaces for the sub box to show through.

 

Hope that helps.

 

L

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Forget the 12's boys.....go big or go home :) I got stalled out on finishing the install but my ports are going to the back, amps mounted on the angular fronts, and bottle angled in the center between subs. Still have lots of glasswork to make it pretty but slam it does...LOL. I'm 6'2"+ and have plenty of recline for the seats and full visability out the rear window since there's the valley between the subs. Can't take credit for the box though.....bought it when a customer didn't pay and once I added the additional volume and ported it, it fit like a glove. Believe it or not.....this setup is AMAZINGLY accurate with no motor noise or cone noise even with the subs a foot from your head.

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1285557770/gallery_4383_493_184346.jpg

Edited by jonboyb
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It was just for giggles....and needless to say it produces them from onlookers or passengers :lol: I've had smaller subs where the back seat was but got cone noise at higher power levels (but was always using sealed enclosures). With all the stuff in the hatch I can't put speakers back there so I took a chance with 15's at lower power (if you consider 1350 watts lower anyways....but I run it low gain). Plenty of dB from the massive cone size with far less excursion, and noise, than the smaller subs I tried. Honestly, even in these small cabins a rear ported box can be really tight. I tried the box in sealed form and didn't like it, hence the afterthought of the riser for additional volume. One side is still sealed at the current time and it's night and day between the 2 subs. I think 2, 10's or 12's correctly ported would have been equally awesome sounding. Edited by jonboyb
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Jon - that is insane. I like it but my wife thinks I'm hard of hearing as it is.

 

Lance - thanks for that info, that is exactly what I needed. Now I just need to decide on the woofer's. I'm in Austin, TX though so I don't have a lot of choices to actually go and listen to so I'll probably have to choose/purchase via the internet.

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I have brief case holders in the back i split the bench and have an amp rack/mids/ secret compartment for the caps and battery down the middle. and I dont care what the my wife things lol shes banned from riding in Betty anyway. make something up to your liking its a blank canvas
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Jon - that is insane. I like it but my wife thinks I'm hard of hearing as it is.

 

Lance - thanks for that info, that is exactly what I needed. Now I just need to decide on the woofer's. I'm in Austin, TX though so I don't have a lot of choices to actually go and listen to so I'll probably have to choose/purchase via the internet.

 

 

Madisound.com has pretty good deals, so does partsexpress.com You have to decide whether you are interested in an SQ (sound quality) setup or a SPL (sound pressure level) setup. For size purposes, try and find a woofer or woofers that don't need a big box. The specs for the suggested box size will be on the sub information. Parts express has feed back on their products so you can see what people are saying about them. Oh, and don't forget, you want a sub that is going to have the correct handling power capacity for the amp you are running. Too much power or too little will adversely affect the quality of the output of the driver.

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