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ezearrl

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    Where's that confounded bridge?
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  1. You need to remove the factory head unit in order to utilize an aftermarket amp without damaging your speakers, although they are only 15watt speakers and you should replace them anyway. If you want to run the factory setup and a subwoofer with the amp, you can tap into the rear speaker wires with a line level converter for the amp signal. To save money, you can just get a new head unit (even a cheap one ie., $150) and run that on factory speakers. It will sound a lot better. Unless you replace the speakers, I wouldn't worry about hooking up an amp to them. Really, an aftermarket deck is night and day, plus you can play cd's ;D
  2. Just as a bit of advice, I would strongly caution anyone from making purchases from Ben. Â I bought an intercooler and turbo with all the plumbing. Â The intercooler was supposed to be in great shape and pressure tested. Â I paid an extra $100 for the turbo too. Â These parts were supposed to be off an '89 TSI. After over a month of waiting, I received my grenaded turbo and smashed intercooler. Â Thanks Ben. Â I might as well have thrown that money out the window.
  3. Just based on pure aerodynamics, the splitter is in the throttle body to create turbulence. If it were not there, there would be less turbulence downstream. The fact that Mitsubishi engineers placed a turbulator just before the injectors indicates that a turbulent or random air flow improves atomization of the air fuel mixture. This would seem appropriate given the umbrella spray pattern of the injectors. Without the turbulator, a relatively laminar air flow would pass by the injectors, thus increaseing the air fuel ratio in the intake along the side of injection, and conversely lowering the a/f ratio opposite the side of injection by simple interference from the fuel spray. This would no doubt cause high pressure downstream of the injectors on the injection side of the intake, just like a back eddy in a river, only this eddy is up against the barrier of the fluid flow (the intake wall), decreasing velocity of the air flow even further due to the increased friction from the static pressure against the intake wall. Since high pressure seeks low pressure, the relative difference along the intake would cause the slower, fuel rich flow to cross to the non injection side of the intake plumbing, and in effect bend the air flow towards the low pressure. The high pressure "wall" would increase air flow along the low pressure side of the intake. When the two air flows of different velocity meet, we will finally have our mixing and a relatively even a/f ratio achieved. The only problem is that by the time this would have occured, the air flow has been redireted down seperate individual runners. The result is an uneven mixture in each combustion chamber. Now this seems very unlikely that an engineer would want to split air flow velocity and create an unbalanced final a/f ratio. The turbulator works to mix the fuel fast by introducing random turbulent air to the fuel spray. The laminar flow along the intake walls helps to stabilize flow and maintain velocity after mixing has occured. The size of the turbulator and the wake it creates are what the engineers spent their time developing. They want as small a wake, aka 'turbulent flow pattern' immediately prior to the introduction of fuel as possible, then enough distance for atomization to occur, then a return to as laminar a flow as possible, for velocities sake. By modifying the turbulator, one could improve atomization and the overall velocity of the flow downstream of the injectors and upstream of the runners. To think about it purely in equational form, the area times the velocity in the intake will equal a constant. The larger the turbulator, the less the area in the intake, the greater the velocity of the flow. The relative velocity will return the flow to laminar, it's just a matter of when. Since the fuel atomization needs to occur prior to the runners and we want the flow to be as fast as possible, timing is critical. If atomization occurs too late you need to come up with a different turbulator design. If it occurs too soon, you may not get adequate fuel atomization. Obviously the object is to get as close to perfect as possible. The only way we will know if the Tornado in the throttle body is an impovement in performance is to try it. I wish you good luck in your endeavor. Let us know what results you have. Improved/decreased fuel efficiency and WHP gains/losses from a dyno run before and after would be good for physical evidence of the findings in your experiment.
  4. I bought a first gen mass from Rob. The thing looked like it had never even been installed new! Everything was in perfect shape and the correct pin was already clipped, so I plugged 'n' played!
  5. I finally got my Greddy TT and the harness for the elcipse w/alarm. Everything wired up nice and works fine. Now I have to figure out where to hook these two extra wires on the TT harness. Since the box with the harness was written in Japanes, and I don't read Japanese so well, I'll have to do some experimenting to figure out which alarm wires to tap. More to come....
  6. I would think the easiest spot to mount subs would be inside the rear seats. The rear cover comes off, and there is a ~ 12x12x3 cubby hole. I thought about shaving the foam and making a frame, them mounting some amps inside with a light string, then covering the box with plexyglass so you could see it from the trunk or lay them down and view the pretty lights. All the power and speaker wires can be routed up through the hole already in the carpet. Subs there would be pretty nice, and by the way, you made no mention of subs when you spoke of mounting 'speakers' in the quarter trim.
  7. On the cloth interiors that would work, but with leather, I'd never hack those up. Another thing, if anyone sits back there, the speakers get covered up. I mounted mine up in the stock location, and they sound great.
  8. There is fairly new product being used in high dollar custom body shops called FUSOR. It is a bonding glue that will allow expansion and contraction between fiberglass and metal bonds. The product is endorsed by the likes of GM. You can use it to fill seems and bond metal to metal without welding and causing heat warping/rippling of the sheet metal. It is a fine product. I am using it to glass a body kit onto my other car, so I'll post pics before and after paint. Heres the link: http://www.fusor.com/ just a couple of cents worth
  9. Hey guys, I put some Boston 5 1/4" speakers in the stock location in the door, I just modified the metal bracket that bolts to the door to accept the larger diameter speakers. Â Now I need to figure out how to modify the lower door panel to work with the speaker. Â The stock hole in the lower panel actually covers up about half the factory speaker, and the arm rest cover overlaps about 1/4 or so of the aftermarket speakers. Â Anyone know if I can find lowers door panels that are made for the bigger speakers (from a TSI or ESI-r), or do I have to refab the stock lower panels to work? Â Any suggestions or tips are greatly appreciated. Â I want to have a clean looking and acoustically pleasing end result. Thanks
  10. If a guy hooked up the turbo boost aka jump button, then all you'd have to do is head for a river or closed bridge, then you could jump over the gap and leave the cops behind. Kinda like the Duke boys, just more realistic cause the cops would be sooo amazed they would just have to call off the choppers and squad cars on the other side of the river!!! Then you'd get away clean and not have to worry about the brake lights at all By the way, the Dukes of Hazzard was cancelled in part by the influence of car collectors getting really pissed at all the Chargers being wrecked every time they jumped one. I still don't understand why Knight Rider was cancelled.
  11. that's too bad, when I get my stuff in, I'll send you a copy of the install instructions, that way you know what to hard wire. I may even be able to tell you how to get the stock alarm to work. I'll have the order in about a week, so I'll post on it then good luck!
  12. You can get a harness from HKS for around $15. Not bad for plug and play. I ordered the 1st gen Eclipse w/factory alarm and I'm hoping that will allow the factory alarm in our cars to work.
  13. I called Greddy and spoke with a tech. He told me that I could wire in a relay or a resistor, I believe he said a resistor, and the alarm would arm after the turbo timer shut off. I also spoke with an installer at Circuit City and he said he used 4 relays wired in different places to give a Viper auto start alarm a 90 second run-on after you armed pressed button four. You can then take out the key and arm the alarm. I personally want to make the stock setup work with a genuine turbo timer. Sarc, can you at least lock the doors and walk away while the TT is doing it's thing?
  14. The wiring harness for the greddy turbo timer should plug right into the starquests. I looked at the HKS sight, and they do sell a harness for our cars. The part number is the same as for the the 1st gen Eclipse. They also have a harness for the 1st gen Eclipse with the factory alarm. I spoke with another member, and he has an HKS harness and a Greddy Turbo Timer, and everything works except the factory alarm. I will most likely buy the harness for the Eclipse w/factory alarm and a Greddy full auto turbo timer, so at least in this application, I'll be able to let you guys know if it works. Probably in a week or so, after finals.
  15. Keep us posted, I am still running a stock MAS, so this could be my next upgrade. Thanks for the research ;D
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