Jump to content



Best way to run intercooler piping?


  • Please log in to reply
12 replies to this topic

#1 Preludedude

Preludedude

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,686 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Upstate, SC
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 11 February 2018 - 04:38 PM

So I have a CXRacing intercooler, and with the outlet at the top, I don't really see a good way to route it to the MPI intake...

I will have to cut directly beside the driver headlight area, but my CXRacing radiator mounting looks like it will be in the way also..

Is it necessary to buy a intercooler that has side inlets/outlets so you can route under the driver headlight?

EDIT:

I added these from KEVs build...

Posted Image
Posted Image

Edited by Preludedude, 28 February 2018 - 08:39 AM.






#2 BuGG

BuGG

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,930 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Pennsylvania
  • Interests:Starquests forever!
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 11 February 2018 - 05:17 PM

Lots of people have top output IC with MPI.  Look at Kev's thread.
Posted Image

#3 croquest87

croquest87

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,094 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:willoughby
  • Interests:all things mechanical
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 11 February 2018 - 07:04 PM

Doing the same thing as we speak  thats the one reason l ended up buying cx racing universal w 2.5 outlets to the side  was gonna tig weld tabs on the cooler on the sides so it bolts up to the stock cooler mounts but ran out of argon lol  outlets will point out just under the frame and go through the hole under the headlights up under the battery tray to the intake  same goes for pass side  will most likely have to get small battery or relocate it  

Cx racing intercooler https://imgur.com/a/jMYmK

It has perfect amount of space to weld tabs/ears on it to sit in there like stock


Edited by croquest87, 11 February 2018 - 08:13 PM.


#4 kev

kev

    Moderator

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,908 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:PA
  • Model:Other

Posted 12 February 2018 - 07:27 AM

It is tight!   I barely was able to get mine to fit but I got it into there without impacting the radiator (although I use a stock unit).  It does take up some battery space though and requires a smaller battery.  I had to relocate my slop tank slightly (I moved it over about 2").  It would impact your vacuum pump too...if you use cc.  

I have some pics in my rebuild thread.  I just added some photos to it for the radiator install including the windshield washer filler tube and slop tank 'slight' relocation.  

http://www.starquest...ic=26099&st=280

#5 tux

tux

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,204 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:new jersey
  • Model:Starion

Posted 12 February 2018 - 10:52 AM

I flipped my intercooler so it's mounted upsidedown.  Then I ran the pipe where the washer tank and battery tray are.

I have no washer tank now, until I find something that fits in the fender well or make one to clear the piping.

#6 ucw458

ucw458

    This will mean the extinction of all life forms on this planet.

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,427 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Colorado
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 12 February 2018 - 09:26 PM

The gallery here isn't cooperating so I'm having trouble posting a pic of my setup.  I didn't remove anything.  I still have AC, washer resivour, battery tray, etc.  I did cut the corner of the battery tray.  My piping is 2.5".  There is still room for a full size group 24 battery.  My IC has a top outlet but it's pointing back towards the engine.
My 87
Posted Image

#7 tux

tux

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,204 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:new jersey
  • Model:Starion

Posted 13 February 2018 - 10:35 AM

I'm interested to see how you ran the pipes!

#8 ucw458

ucw458

    This will mean the extinction of all life forms on this planet.

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,427 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Colorado
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 13 February 2018 - 11:19 PM

Gallery worked today.  Here you go.


Posted Image



Posted Image
My 87
Posted Image

#9 tux

tux

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,204 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:new jersey
  • Model:Starion

Posted 14 February 2018 - 03:20 PM

oh nice.  I've got some ridiculously larger cx racing one so this probably won't work for me ;(

#10 techboy

techboy

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 3,148 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Lehigh Valley, PA
  • Interests:80's & 90's turbo charged cars.
  • Model:Starion

Posted 15 February 2018 - 12:26 PM

I'm a ways away from doing this myself, but it's on my short list to mount a different FMIC and re-route the IC piping.  I was talking to someone recently who said that instead of a cutting a big hole on the drivers side they cut a smaller hole and used a soft pipe to through between the headlight and radiator.  It's hard to tell in your pic UCW - but, is that what you did?
1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

Posted Image

#11 ucw458

ucw458

    This will mean the extinction of all life forms on this planet.

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,427 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Colorado
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 15 February 2018 - 05:54 PM

Yeah there are a couple of bumps under the battery tray that prevent a pipe from going through.  Nothing big but it would leave that side of the battery tray around 3/8" higher.  So I ran silicone hose from the IC to the first 90 after the battery tray.  Fit perfect and hasn't given me any issues.  And yes, it's run between the headlight and radiator.
My 87
Posted Image

#12 TexasQuest

TexasQuest

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 8,685 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sunnyvale, Texas
  • Interests:TSi's & VR4's
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 15 February 2018 - 10:12 PM

Gorgeous engine bay ucw!
88 Fiji Blue -Tsi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, Hallman boost controller
Posted Image

View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

#13 ucw458

ucw458

    This will mean the extinction of all life forms on this planet.

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,427 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Colorado
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 16 February 2018 - 01:56 AM

View Posttux, on 14 February 2018 - 03:20 PM, said:

oh nice.  I've got some ridiculously larger cx racing one so this probably won't work for me ;(

Mine is fairly large too.  It came off an Izuzu diesel commercial truck.  But it happened to be a perfect fit.  Made a bracket for it to bolt to the factory IC bolt holes.


Posted Image


Posted Image
My 87
Posted Image




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users