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4 vs. 6 bolt axles.


Lance_S
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Hey guys....and Taz,

 

just curious, what is the HP rating for the 4 vs. 6 bolt axles. I will be running around 250 HP at the wheels and wondering if my 4 bolts will hold up. I don't track it and it's a 5 speed. I don't slam gears and wait until the clutch is fully engaged before WOT so I am pretty easy on the car.

 

I did recently loose an 87 trans, went to an 89. We will see how that holds up but i don't think the tooth loss from my tranny was my bad, only had the car for a few months.

 

Thanks,

 

lance

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Hey guys....and Taz,

 

Ha.

 

I don't think there has been any definitive test of strength with the 4 bolt axle vs the 6 bolt axle. The 6 bolts are a larger diameter shaft which inherently makes them stronger. The 6 bolts came as an upgrade from development on Ralliart competition Starions.

 

The 6 bolt differential/housing itself is 10lbs heavier, likely due to a thicker casting as the ring/pinion and the clutches are the same size in the 4 bolt.

 

-Robert

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Your 4 bolts will be fine. Like was already said just don't let them wheel hop. I put 350whp through a 20yr old set for 3yrs before I had an issue. And I did go to the dragstrip and beat the crap out of them. More likely gonna see a trans failure first.
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there are two sizes of 4 bolts too, making three versions total. the larger 4 bolts came on the intercooled cars before the 6 bolt axles came out. Just make sure you have intercooled axles and you will be fine. they are stronger than the trans for sure.

 

Every case of CV failure that has been actualy diagnosed came back to wheel hop, incorrect shaft seating where it pops out of the diff a little when jackd up, or massive HP thrown at it. I wouldn't think the 6 bolt axles are nessesary unless you plan on 450 HP, or very frequent track use on a prepped track with slicks.

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I went with 3.90 gears to pull some load off of the trans and more load to the larger of 4 bolt axles (among other reasons). I don't have the traction to break my 4 bolts either. Although my current set up is probably only pushing 250 hp.
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I am running the smaller 4 bolt that I drilled out to fit my hubs. Supposed to only be a temp fix since it's all I could get on short notice. FYI my previous 4 bolts didn't break but they slipped out of the read end enough to strip the splines clean off.... With a terrifying BANG! Like Chad said, 100% install error. Lesson learned
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I was going to do the 6-bolt swap but after reading this I reckon my 4-bolt setup will be just fine.

Colin B)

 

 

Agreed Colin. Why change? My four bolt CV set up has worked fine since 1987.Even at 7000 rpms. But, I don't DRIFT my car. :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

Bill

Edited by Caliber308
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Or make any notable power :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

So, what are you trying to say? That you cannot make power with a four bolt CV set up??? Even at 20 psi turbo boost??? I have yet to tear out my four bolt set up after 22 years. Sometimes, some of you might believe "old wifes" tales that are not true :D YA,I have dropped the clutch at 7000 rpms.....And my four bolt CV Shafts and LSD are still intact. If some of you would listen to what I and other experienced members have done with their cars,You might learn something, unlike the post above from Phinko :lol:

 

Bill

Edited by Caliber308
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So, what are you trying to say? That you cannot make power with a four bolt CV set up??? Even at 20 psi turbo boost??? I have yet to tear out my four bolt set up after 22 years. Sometimes, some of you might believe "old wifes" tales that are not true :D YA,I have dropped the clutch at 7000 rpms.....And my four bolt CV Shafts and LSD are still intact. If some of you would listen to what I and other experienced members have done with their cars,You might learn something, unlike the post above from Phinko :lol:

 

Bill

 

Dont get you panties in a wadd. You little girl, I was just razzin ya!

I already commented on the 4bolts.

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With the mods I've done I'm very happy with the power my Conquest makes and as I don't drive like a spazz (well, most of the time! :P) I agree with Bill that the 4 bolt rear will hold up.

Colin B)

 

 

Colin,

 

I think Phinko is trying to say that our cars don't make any "notable" power :lol: :lol: :lol: I can't speak for Colin, but my car makes enough power so as I know when to stop. You don't see me posting about blowing the hell out of my motor. I'd rather be driving it than spending my time rebuilding the engine ;) Go fast, blow um up.Go fast,blow um up, most of the time from overboosting. I have read that scenario one too many times over the years on this site. And as far as how much HP I have going to the rear wheels ???? I'm not into the" DYNO GAME" that some members seem to enjoy playing on here.

 

Bill

Edited by Caliber308
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Agreed Bill.

I've seen Phinko's car, it does make "notable" :o power and then some :D so 6-bolt is the way to go for him.

Mine with a 14g, 13lbs. of boost, Cosmo Racing intake, HKS FCD, *DM downpipe and modded I/C plus hard pipes is plenty enough for me! ^_^

Colin B)

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Colin,

 

I think Phinko is trying to say that our cars don't make any "notable" power :lol: :lol: :lol: I can't speak for Colin, but my car makes enough power so as I know when to stop. You don't see me posting about blowing the hell out of my motor. I'd rather be driving it than spending my time rebuilding the engine ;) Go fast, blow um up.Go fast,blow um up, most of the time from overboosting. I have read that scenario one too many times over the years on this site. And as far as how much HP I have going to the rear wheels ???? I'm not into the" DYNO GAME" that some members seem to enjoy playing on here.

 

Bill

 

No, I wasn't addressing Mr Gibb at all. Just your righteous az. I tried very hard to keep my 4bolts together. For 75% of the individuals on here they will be fine. You start mixing a descent amount of power (midish 300hp) and traction in and they will break with great ease.

 

1 broke on a 3500rpm quick slip launch just sitting still. It maybe nudged an inch. So wheel spin was not an issue. But since these were the ones I had been beating on for a few yrs so I wrote it off.

 

Threw in another, 4 passes and snap.

 

Freshly rebuild went in. Drove for a week and first day at the track, I puzz footed out of the whole. Once wheel speed was there I let the clutch the rest of the way out and insta boom.

 

So, if you intend to go for a good amount of power and do some track time, save yourself the heartache and throw a 6bolt in or buy a later model. Otherwise 4bolts will do. But just writing all the failures off to wheel hop is incorrect. They have a limit and it's easily reached. That's why the went 6 bolt.

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And as far as how much HP I have going to the rear wheels ???? I'm not into the" DYNO GAME" that some members seem to enjoy playing on here.

 

Bill

 

So then you have no business answering this question.

 

And noone said anything about blowing engines.

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Yeah, he also broke a 4 bolt. But thats not the point.

How often did/does he go to the track? 383 w/ a 200shot better trip the 60ft with his back tires (if you know what I mean). So if he isnt, than he isnt putting much power down on the line.

 

I beat on a set of 4bolts day in and day out for near 3yrs. With MULTIPLE trips to the track. Only thing that saved them were my traction issues. The second the 60ft began to shrink the 4 bolts quit. On the street, they will prolly last forever unless you hook a hardcore dig.

 

But foreal, when was the last time he went to the track? like eons?

 

I was a full on 4bolt believer until this year. People told me and told me, I was gonna need a 6 bolt and I blew em off. Mine hadnt broken yet. Then the traction came. Then I finally saw the light.

Edited by phinko
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Ha.

 

I don't think there has been any definitive test of strength with the 4 bolt axle vs the 6 bolt axle. The 6 bolts are a larger diameter shaft which inherently makes them stronger. The 6 bolts came as an upgrade from development on Ralliart competition Starions.

 

The 6 bolt differential/housing itself is 10lbs heavier, likely due to a thicker casting as the ring/pinion and the clutches are the same size in the 4 bolt.

 

-Robert

 

dang now i gotta go back to 4 bolt for weight loss

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Phinko, he didn't break a 4-bolt, he broke a half-shaft, at the strip. You make multiple trips to the strip you will break a 4 or 6 bolts or anything else you are running, SQ or any other vehicle.

 

The 83 lsd rear is different from the 4 bolt intercooled rears, it may well have better steel in it.

 

It is usually the alex that breaks in side the rear. This some times damages the rear and leaves chips behind. A stockesh power 5000 rpm clutch drop on a sticky track snapped this one. Most guys will never break one. But with so many guys running puck clutches and doing "clutch kicks" i am surprised we do not see more of it.

 

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff45/StarquestRescue/DSC00195.jpg

 

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff45/StarquestRescue/DSC00194.jpg

Edited by StarquestRescue
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Mitsubishi engineers were probably prepping for a four bolt main but it never got off the drawing board in time (for our models).

 

Just be thankful our cars are not like the peg-leg wonders.

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Phinko, he didn't break a 4-bolt, he broke a half-shaft, at the strip. You make multiple trips to the strip you will break a 4 or 6 bolts or anything else you are running, SQ or any other vehicle.

That's very true about strip cars. I have a friend that runs Pro Mod with a 7 second '55 Chevy that he's owned since 1963. He broke the best driveline money can buy. Even better, it was custom strengthened. I went to his pit afterwards and he says it happens once per year and it is hard to tell if not impossible that it is ready to go.

Another friend made over 100 passes on a 12 second Monte Carlo before his ring gear let loose. Just a matter of time.

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