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Finally got tired of the play in my wheel, and decided to window weld the steering socket coupler!

A list of things you'll need:

1: Window weld (You can get this at Autozone, Amazon, etc.)

2: A caulk gun. (I suggest a Kobalt one from Lowes. I broke two and finally went for the Kobalt and it worked.

3. A clean steering socket coupler. The rubber on the female side of the coupler just popped out of mine. The male side required scraping and a wire brush.

4. Gloves (I recommend..)

 

Well, heres your clean coupler.

http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr285/manlavi90/IMAG0547_zps4b8f7dbb.jpg

As you can see, the female side is hollow.

http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr285/manlavi90/IMAG0548_zps0535e02f.jpg

I used a piece of blister packaging plastic from the wheel locks I bought early that day. I actually recommend aluminum can metal or something, using the clear piece as a template.

http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr285/manlavi90/IMAG0549_zpsd0752e3a.jpg

http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr285/manlavi90/IMAG0550_zps08bc7ce2.jpg

Stuff the piece in the female side

http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr285/manlavi90/IMAG0551_zpsb8e1dd5c.jpg

Fill the female side with window weld. Just a forewarning, Window weld is some super stout stuff. I had to put the caulk gun handle on the workbench and lean on the gun to get the stuff to come out.

http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr285/manlavi90/IMAG0552_zps9ab59636.jpg

Put the male side into the female side. Leave 7/16'ths of an inch between the bottom of the female side and the beginning of where the rubber was on the male side.

http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr285/manlavi90/IMAG0553_zpsa26d832f.jpg

Slap your gloves on and run the bead around the coupler, but do it loosely. You want as much of the window weld to stay there, just make it look clean.

http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr285/manlavi90/IMAG0554_zps0f17c942.jpg

 

This job did pretty great for me, but I think I'm going to buy a a broken coupler from someone, window weld it, and put a piece of pipe over it and weld it. Metal weld for everything, window weld for back up. I feel a huge difference in steering though, and I retain the vibration absorbency.

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So you've been using this since? I'd like to hear feedback on the feel/vibration with the Window Weld vs. straight metal welding. I got pretty mixed results in a previous thread on this.

 

Can't see how the Window Weld wouldn't work, unless it goes bad like the stock rubber over time. Still have the female/male stock setup that'll work but with play at worst.

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People have thought about that, but the weld could fail over time, and when that weld pops, and the coupler is metal to metal play, it will be when you least expect it and ram someone. I'm going to window-weld + weld on my next coupler. Who wants to sell me one? Hahaha
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that window weld is some tough stuff, seems like a good fix to me. A trick I always used is to leave the tube in front of a torpedo heater for a minute or two, or if its hot out sit it on some hot asphault for 10 minutes or so, this will soften it up a bit and make it easier to use with a standard caulking gun.
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Great write up, I know that stuff is amazingly strong. Ive seen ppl use it for all kinda of stuff. But why not just run a aftermarket steering joint, or just weld it solid like Ronnie said? If its shock absorption your after I understand.
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Also, a forewarning. The reason I said you should use a metal piece in the female side instead is because my plastic piece bent and squished into the splined area and let a little window weld through. Still went on the gearbox well, but I thought I should warn someone.
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