kev

Look for a shop in your area that restores fuel tanks.

They are getting very hard to find for most went to the yards and are long crushed. I've always been a fan of the 83-85 cars. I like the look, especially without the rear spoiler that was added to the flatbodies in 86. My first car was an 84 starion es and I've been searching for a clone of it for 30 years. Have had a few opportunities for ones in a different color though, but even that was 15+ years back. I chuckle how one of the requirements is the chime feature. I turned that off after the first drive in my 84 and it never was switched back on during my ownership. BTW: the ES models have the Velnas computer which is far cooler than both the chime or the digital dash, in my opinion. (well...84 and 85 and in the starion variant only) Anyways, good luck with the search and sorry to clutter the thread!

That makes sense. Never seen one that color with the buckskin interior.

Check the small wire to the starter solenoid.

Note how the original window sticker says buckskin interior. Obviously, that is no longer the case.

I will say that intercooled 87s are definitely interchangeable with 88/89s. I had an issue with trying to install a full differential from an intercooled 86 into an 87 several years back. The geometry wasn't the same. Although, I never tried to pin it down to the exact difference. The parts catalog shows different part numbers for intercooled vs non-intercooled torque tube shafts, housings, and companion flanges.

When you say it won't 're-crank', do you mean the starter isn't working or that it won't fire up on cranking? In either case, start by focusing in on your fusible links. Check them all in detail as well as the connections for the fusible link box.

injectors are known to stick especially if the car has been sitting awhile. Pull them out on put the tips in a cup of carb cleaner for a few hours. I usually do a quick test using a large syringe connected to the injector input, via a piece of tubing, with denatured alcohol. Energize the injector (using an old injector clip connected to a 12V power supply, or even a 9V battery, and push down on the syringe to make sure they spray. If they open and spray, then you the car should at least fire up. If not, it is something prior, such as wiring (including the clips) or the resistor. It's usually the primary injector, black top, that sticks. When this happens to me, I usually can get the car to fire up and chug by pumping the gas pedal during cranking (i.e. the secondary, green top, injector is energizing when pumping the pedal). If this is indeed the problem, and the car fires up and runs semi-decent after a quick cleaning, I'd recommend sending your injectors out for a professional cleaning/inspection. It's pretty cheap and fast (around $15-20 an injector). They do an initial flow test, clean the injector out thoroughly, inspect for internal and external leaks, clean the contacts, and do a post flow test. kev

Thanks! Painting enhances my anxiety haha. I just don't enjoy it. Love the cutting/welding, putty work is bearable, but painting sucks. The paint is so expensive, and spraying is dependent on so many factors....one of which is my own lack of experience because I only paint cars, or exterior panels of cars, once in like every 10 years. I also broke the cardinal rule...painting the in the winter. But if it wasn't for my experimenting with my gun settings, I really believe it would have gone flawlessly. Got the car back together this past weekend and took it out for a drive. Unfortunately, when putting the wheels back on, I saw that one of my axle boots is ripped. So won't be driving it much until I address that. Still need to paint the c-pillars and rear louvers and get back on refinishing my spare set of wheels. The passenger door in this photo is original paint. The front half of the fender is in base coat but the full fender cleared. I'm very happy in how the paint matched, especially using PPG shopline base which isn't known for matching original paint well.

Yes, you have good fuel pressure. Do you hear any increased noise of the fuel pump as it gets warmer? Typically, if the pump is the issue, It will be howling loud when it is hot. If not, I'd put aside fuel (but leave that gauge on there if you can). Injectors may be a culprit though but being that it does run when cold, I'm not sure I'd focus on them at the moment. Any air leaks in the intake system? The smallest of a leak can cause the car to die, especially after it comes up to temp...including vacuum leaks. You can cap off every vacuum port and try it...leaving it at idle (don't drive the car without at least the vac advance connected though, but idling is fine). Any codes on the ECU? In the video, it looks like there is a bunch of stuff added to your car over the years (turbo timer, etc.). Disconnect all of that as you work to diagnose your problem. I've learned to always start with what either I or a previous owner 'changed/altered' on the car.

I use 'SEM trim black' on the window trim and really all of the satin black trim on these cars, as well as any car really. I love the stuff.

When it goes to stall, can you keep it running at all...by goosing the throttle, etc? The coolant temperature sensor may be the issue. If you connect a 300 ohm resistor between the two poles of the connector, it will simulate a fully warm condition. Worth a try if you have a resistor handy (I miss radioshack).

I thought I'd put a follow-up on my original post on the status of my winter project. I believe I have the body work complete, at least for the near term. Wow, what a PIA! I'm so glad I made the decision NOT to paint the entire car. It was just so much work. This was probably one of my worst paint jobs. I laid too much material when spraying my clear and it resulted in several runs and drags. That entailed many hours of work to repair. There still are a few minor sags in the paint here and there, visible in right lighting/angle, but being that this thing is a driver, I'm ok with it. All in all, I'm finally pretty happy with it. The paint matches the original very well after a lot of cutting/buffing. Oops, finger in the frame.. Never mind the stone chips in the header panel, etc....those are panels still in original paint. But it all blended in well. I need to paint the C pillar panels and the rear louvers (pulled those off for now)...but these will be just rattle can satin black. Finishing restoring my spare set of 7/8" wheels will be the spring/summer project. Right now, I'm just trying to get it back together and drivable. kev

Crows foot and a long extension will enable you to undo the HP fitting on the top of the box from the top. Just take your time, don't want to strip that fitting. The hard part is snaking out/in the line without bending it (well at least the new one). Other hard part is starting the threads on the HP fitting into the top of the box on that new line. Get that started before you have the line fully constrained in place because you may have to wiggle it around a bit to get the threads started and snug.