natallica Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 I'm assuming since it would be a 'mod' to a stock head, this post belongs in this thread topic. I'm almost ready to plan how I'd like the head built for my Fiji and I'd like to get a few opinions. If I intend on running a stock block with BSEK and a 16G in my auto Quest, what sort of upgrades could I have taken care of at the time the head is put together to make things as "snappy" as I can with minimal mods to the stock ignition/fuel/air delivery systems? Would a new non-jet M28 head with SS Valves, Schneider Springs, and possible a slightly upgraded cam be worth porting and polishing, or am I not going to notice much of a difference in performance without other supporting mods. I'd just like to know, if I'm doing the head, I wanna do it right the first time, but not waste money if it's not necessary for my goal of having a "mostly stock, but a tad more kick" DD. Thanks in advance guys!-N8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 (edited) stock sized ss valves w/ backcut (increases low lift flow) matchport the head and gasket to the intake (might do this prior to having the head worked) Blend the CC bowl edge to remove the sharp surface. As well as the runner casting flaws. Have the valves handled after you do the head work. Edited April 3, 2014 by Funky Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 And remember, you CAN port too much. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedyquest Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 I was going to mentions several of the things Funky said, but he covered it much better than I. I will say though that countless times I've seen people mention that porting etc is all well and good but the very first limitation for flow with our engines in stock form is not the head. Typically they say its the stock wastegate / turbo first and foremost. So maybe think about taking a look at that a bit too? Just my thoughts Allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creakyjoints Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 4 cyl fury had a fully worked over head which cracked. He put a completely stock head on and ran the within a 10th of the ported polished head. This was told to me by someone else so check with him. If it is true why bother? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mstieg Posted April 12, 2014 Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 (edited) A cam is not needed from your stated goals. From what I've learned cam is the LAST thing to do only once everything else is matched up to your goals. Porting is also questionable. So long as it can breathe in & out, you'd be better investing in other areas like fully matching 2.25 or 2.5" IC piping, perhaps a better IC - top in/out to reduce piping length. Get rid of your OVCP. SS OS valves and stronger springs can certainly help a bit. Tight timing chain is a must so your on point with the BSEK. Turbo selection might be your best bet for increased pep. Loved my sm 16g for that and you likely will too. From experience I recommend porting out that 16g more than the head!! Especially the exhaust side if still TD05. http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10168/TurboPort.jpg http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10168/TurboExPort.jpg You could also port out your injector housing, but don't overdo that either... http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10168/Inj%20Housing%20Port%201.jpg Edited April 12, 2014 by mstieg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natallica Posted April 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 (edited) Thanks guys!I actually thought about just going stock-ish on the head (mechanical or hydraulic? opinions), maybe Schneider springs/SS valves, haven't decided yet.I did grab one of Brian's knife edged/ported injector housings a few months ago. Maybe I'll shop for intercooler stuff instead, any good places to look or is it a matter of modding "universal" kits? -N8 Edited April 12, 2014 by natallica Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mstieg Posted April 12, 2014 Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 ^ ^ Here's exactly what I have at $170 shipped too. 2.5" IC piping = 65mm TB nearly exactly. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-INTERCOOLER-24x11x3-Mazda-RX7-V-Mount-FMIC-/390266030367?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5addab091f&vxp=mtr A fairly tight fit, but allowed me to reduce the 10ft + of stock IC piping to 48" of piping from turbo to TB! This = much faster spool & throttle response. Less work for turbo too. http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/14392/IC_front_top.jpg http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/14392/IC_inside.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doomviillain Posted April 13, 2014 Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 (edited) http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10168/Inj%20Housing%20Port%201.jpg is this divider necessary? it seems like it just causes turbulence Edited April 13, 2014 by doomviillain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 (edited) This is also a good idea. Open the exhaust manifold and match the turbine too it.Maybe not as big but you get the idea . http://imageshack.com/a/img128/1268/83hood112.jpg Edited April 14, 2014 by importwarrior Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mstieg Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 I've been told it is needed to help mix the gas & air properly/evenly. I'll defer to the gurus who know more than I however. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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