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Couple Quick Maf Translator Questions


Turbo Cary
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I've been sitting here thinking about what to do with my maf translator as I'm going to upgrade my intercooler soon and will have to redo some of my piping. I am using a 2G DSM maf t on my car.

 

I know it locks the iat at 70 degrees or something like that. Is it possible to run a wire from a gm IAT sensor to the maf t so it isn't locked at that temp?

 

I ask this because I notice some of y'all run it in blow through instead of draw. The air in blow mode would be hotter than under hood temps correct? If so how do y'all account and tune for it? Does the car run better with it setup blow through? Should I set the blow off valve before or after it?

 

Also I was trying to think of a way to optimize it by using RPM mode. Is there an adapter for analog to digital and could it work to convert the rpm so the maf t can read it?

Edited by Turbo Cary
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the MAFT lock is done on the MAF-T it has nothing to do with the GM IAT sensor.

the MAF-T is programmed that way. i believe 78 degrees.

i have read that more people like the draw better than the blow through.

 

as far as tach signal i dont know what to do for that.

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I dont know of a way to do that type of stuff with the basic maf-t. I think you can with the maf-t pro and maybe the maf-t 2 (not maf-t 1 2nd gen), but there seems to be very little knowledge in our community with setting them up.
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  • 3 weeks later...
I unfortunately don't know much about the original maf-t, but you can set IAT temps in the T-Pro based on the average in your area. I have one on my 3000GT running MAP (but switching back to MAF since I can't get the car to play nice after the move from Detroit to Tucson). Have you checked here? http://www.fullthrottletech.com/
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I checked the maf t website and it doesn't seem like anyone even uses those forums or gets responses anymore. The maf t for 2g DSM cars is pretty much the same as a 1g maf but the only difference is ability for rpm mode tuning at least from what I got out of the manual.

 

That's why I wanted to figure out a way to tap the rpm signal. I have a decent tune but wanted to just get a little more out of it. Don't really want to buy an safc since I'm trying to save to get my magna intake modded

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The basic maft for a 1g and a 2g are the same except for the plug they put on it.

You can use the tack output from a msd type ignition box for the rpm input.

A hand full of people have wired the gen II units (not to be confused with the basic model with the 2g plug) directly to one of the distributor pick up wires and it worked for all but one. That may work on the basic units as well

 

"White ----- (RPM/Engine Speed) Run new 14-18 gauge wire out to distributor plug wire positive. Harness side. (white wire) This will give you the correct RPM signal to the unit and will allow for much better tuning capabilities."

 

Many have talked about wiring a gm air temp sensor in place of the fixed input, but none have had the gumption to try it.

 

A gm mas does take air temp into consideration. that is one reason why they meter differently in blow through. The other reason is turbulence in the compressed air, Elbows and reducers near the mas can cause additional turbulence. If the metering is consitiant these issues can be tuned for with the settings.

Edited by StarquestRescue
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So what are some of the differences between blow thru and draw thru? Obviously where its placed but I mean tuning wise etc.

 

I once had the white rpm wire hooked up to the distributor like you mentioned above. It did use rpm mode ok to my knowledge but it gave me start up issues so I disconnected it. Basically I'd crank and crank the car but it wouldn't start. Then if I cycled the key a time or two it would start

 

I assumed the translator was warping the signal to the ecu and preventing a good start up signal. I understand the difference between the analog and digital signals which is why I figured I would need a tach adapter to make it fully work

Edited by Turbo Cary
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So what are some of the differences between blow thru and draw thru? Obviously where its placed but I mean tuning wise etc.
It just takes different settings, and settings are not as consitant from car to car. The advantage of blow thru is when your bov opens between shifts the car does not go pig rich. assuming your bov is before the afm.

 

 

I once had the white rpm wire hooked up to the distributor like you mentioned above. It did use rpm mode ok to my knowledge but it gave me start up issues so I disconnected it. Basically I'd crank and crank the car but it wouldn't start. Then if I cycled the key a time or two it would start

 

I assumed the translator was warping the signal to the ecu and preventing a good start up signal. I understand the difference between the analog and digital signals which is why I figured I would need a tach adapter to make it fully work

 

 

That was the same problem another guy had. His car would not start reliably with the maft rpm wire wired that way.

Edited by StarquestRescue
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I unfortunately don't know much about the original maf-t, but you can set IAT temps in the T-Pro based on the average in your area. I have one on my 3000GT running MAP (but switching back to MAF since I can't get the car to play nice after the move from Detroit to Tucson). Have you checked here? http://www.fullthrottletech.com/

 

Tucson eh? We need to get together then! Sam's still in basic training and he will be out in October, but then has his advanced schooling. I dont remember exactly when he gets back in town atm. We kinda have to stick together down here because there isnt much support for our cars in our general area :)

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