jiminEcricket

thanks guys

time to step it up a little

mine says "imported" for chrysler on the back...hhmmmmm

GOOD MAN- a man of his word and I got a perfect part and in a fast ,timely manner, thanks again

I am looking for the curved piece that if you were sitting in the drivers side rear seat it would be to the left of your head (it does not move with with the folddown seatback) . it kinda looks like a curved ,padded pillow/headrest. I need 1 in OEM black leather/leather look in very good condition- no rips -tears-fading-stitches coming loose-etc.-etc can anyone help me out? thanks

you should be very careful with the jack/wood method. I would think this to be o.k. IF you still had the trans attached. with no transmission to help"stabilize" the whole setup ,you may risk the motor falling to one side or the other. at this point your mounts are the only solid part holding the motor in the car. even with the bridge, it is used to hold the drivetrain up before removing a cradle, you would snug up the handles on the threaded rods/hooks on the bridge and then remove whatever it is underneath you need to remove. I'm not saying the bridge won't work but it might be a little tough to raise the motor with handles meant to be turned by hand.

this harness goes in between the factory ignition switch harness connecter (so you do not have to cut wires) then attaches to the turbo timer

my car only had to do this to me once (at a walgreens lot) I too called the tow truck, but it was late on the weekend. guy said it would be about midnight before he could get it. after about an hour -enough time to cool off, my wife and I went back to give a try just for sake of saving a tow bill. it started right up...... I flew home as fast i could and have not driven it since... BUT I can duplicate the no start problem. when you get the car home try letting it idle long enough to fully warm up and let the cooling fans kick on/off a few times to be sure its good and hot. then shut it down. mine tries to start at first with slight coughing/spitting on the first or 2nd attempt to start it . after that it just cranks (until I let it cool off again). this may not solve the problem but if you can duplicate it at home it makes it a lot easier to diagnose

my 87 quest is doing exactly the same thing. It drove perfect-cut it off, then crank with no start. I also have a good spark. once the car is cold, it starts right up. if I let it idle to warm up to operating temp. then shut it off. it does the same thing again. I havent had time to look at it so i parked it as it is not my DD. I suspect a possible eci/fuel pump relay may be going bad. when I saw your post I thought "HEY this may be easier to figure out than I thought" but I should have have known. what is easy on a quest

Hello all. I am in need of a good (stressing the good part) power antenna motor for my 87' Quest. I have a new mast, but the gears inside my motor are worn down causing my antenna not to lower completely 9 times out of 10. anyone have a good one to spare? thanks

if you have the plastic caps on top, be very careful taking them off. mine were very hard/brittle. I did a lot of sweating getting them off. if you snap one , good luck in finding a quick replacement. hope it goes without a hitch

Good man. got a 1gmas connector from him for "free"ninety-nine . (plus shipping) thanks for your help

ok , my 87 tsi has some play in the front end (steering). makes handling VERY scary. it seems to be a worn idler arm. most places in town and online only offer an idler arm bushing. i have found 1 or 2 places online that sell the whole arm. is this bushing a common problem to go bad? is it fairly easy to replace? should i just replace the whole idler arm? any info/forewarning is appreciated

name='RichyQuest87' date='22 September 2009 - 12:51 AM' timestamp='1253577070' post='946280'] ive got the connector on the car im parting out. If you just pay shipping you can have it. cool. let me know how much to clarksville,TN 37042 & how you would like to get paid