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#21 Fuze

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Posted 05 October 2018 - 07:40 AM

View PostPtracy262, on 04 October 2018 - 04:51 PM, said:

Send me a pic if you can of you LMS body adds,  either post or member email post me.  I'm ready to purchase kit, and john emailed me,  but thinking of other areas tire/rims (have to upgrade) and what does that mean to HP/Tq lag.

Your best bet is to look me up on Instagram, @battlemagnet. You can see tons of pics of the build there. It's a project that will require fabrication to complete, and you will have to cut up the car, you'll have to cut the quarters and re-weld them, it's not a bolt-on affair. You'll need rims that fit, the only way to do that is custom built 3 piece rims ($1500 used -$3000+ new), the car should already be on coilovers to make it sit right, you'll need to figure out a gas fill solution, and then get it all painted, probably the whole car. $6K is probably about right if you paint it yourself. I drove the car with my tuned G54B and didn't notice any negative effects, except that it's a lot harder to spin a set of new 295's. The car handles like a go-cart.

Edited by Fuze, 05 October 2018 - 08:57 AM.

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#22 Fuze

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Posted 05 October 2018 - 08:40 AM

View Postjinx, on 05 October 2018 - 02:50 AM, said:

Name them! Seriously, who needs that ?

Nothing to do with "purists".... more about making sensible choices
K20 'purist' recommend an $8000 swap, with a weak cheety tq curve, to move a street starquest. Ya... take that advice then.
sure it checks all the boxes that getcha all wet = peak hp + head flow + hi rev + new tech. End result still a pos

Not all swaps are 'expensive'. Nonsense

How many is a handful of 54s... and define fast ?
...and what u call "real power"?

If G54 were so unreliable.... who in their right mind would pump $1 into a MPI conversion ? Think... then look around
MPI conversions far outnumber swaps... while TBI trumps em all, @ What....10:1 at least? Yep, in 2018 still
Impossible for an "unreliable motor, prone to overheat". 54s would've all but dried up, years ago
your reality is just that... yours. The sheer numbers contradict your honesty
Maybe u roll harder than most... also, if the intent is to fly around some track as a wanabe racer, the 54 ain't the medicine imo

A buick GN 5psi brake stand launch, ET streets on asphalt, can lift a front tire, leaves pinning you ridiculously hard in the seat
You'd have to be insane to hold that pedal down on the street
That V6 checks none of the boxes; peak hp + crappy head flow + low rev(~5600 redline, worse than a 54) + 60s tech. So what ?
Smarter folks have gotten any of these old donks, to rip it up & stay together

Well, somebody's triggered! Do what you want with your car, I've tuned G54BT's since 1995 and I know what they can do, I know what it costs, and I know what parts fail. I've built six of the damn things and raced them all.

A handful of fast G54B's is exactly that, a handful. A few.  What's real power? I dunno, more than 300HP? When you're done what have you got, how driveable is it on/off throttle, in and out of turns when it's not wide open? My approach is to think about how I want the car to feel and drive, and build towards that. I don't care about the orthodoxy, I take my inspiration from DIYers, drifters and hot-rodders who do things people say they shouldn't do and end up with unique cars built for them. I got used to driving an LS1 Vette and started asking myself why I was still putting up with the G54b's BS when there are engines that can outshine it without even breaking a sweat.

If G54B's were reliable, people wouldn't NEED to go MPI. They are trying to solve some of the problems with the motor, but either don't want to swap it out, want more power than TBI can provide, or think MPI will be the reliability solution. Bottom line, HP costs more with a G54B than it does with other motors and since you asked, G54B's DID dry up years ago, the only place you can find 'em is on SQC, they sure as hell aren't in the junkyards anymore, maybe Craigslist here and there.

I used to sound just like you. In 2000 for the Englishtown meet I made Tshirts that said "revenge of the 2.6" because Buschur made swapping 4G63's popular. That was a few engines ago, a lot of money ago, a lot of downtime ago.

Not sure why you're talking about Grand Nationals either, I'm not criticizing a decade I'm criticizing Mitsubishi's 70's engine tech not every old engine. Either way, a stock GNX ain't lifting a tire on launch with 250HP and 350 torque!

Edited by Fuze, 05 October 2018 - 08:53 AM.

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#23 Turbo Cary

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Posted 05 October 2018 - 05:36 PM

I sold my Conquest for a Miata, went from 300hp to 100hp and have become a better driver and enjoyed my car a lot more because I don't have it breaking constantly. Parts are in huge supply. Mine is RHD, I needed a gauge cluster hood and was able to order one from England without any problems.

I have a spare engine I am building as a rods only 1.6 turbo build for now until I build my 1.8 engine for serious power. I have far less money in my Miata than I did the SQ and have done more with the car.

I loved my SQ but they are a dying breed of automobiles. Eventually there will be swap and full custom repairs or nothing at all. Why not swap to a new engine with better support and more options?

#24 jinx

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Posted 08 October 2018 - 10:59 PM

u have a RHD miata ?  cool!

Quote

I have a spare engine I am building as a rods only 1.6 turbo build for now until I build my 1.8 engine for serious power.
if u goin rods.... looks like u r only, piston and valvesprings away from "serious power"

check out this monster 1.6L:  https://www.youtube....h?v=AiSxYmRC6s4
precision 6262, rods/pistons, STOCK head with upgraded valvesprings. 547hp?
says head lifted past 40psi, so turned boost down n went mid 10s. Now with bigger head studs & 40+psi, will try for hi 9s

yeah, swap whatever u like in a starquest.... but consider G54 proven performance vs.... and the economics, was all i'm sayin

#25 jinx

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Posted 08 October 2018 - 11:48 PM

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If G54B's were reliable, people wouldn't NEED to go MPI
and that's why there r a BUNCH of TBI cars still driven and being moded... because they NEED to go MPI ? bull
No... it's because they're NOT as "unreliable and prone to overheat" as u claim. That's why 2018, here we are still. Fact
If hung up on chasing some "power" number, the 54 ain't the one. All the old schoolers more concerned with building cars that went surprisingly quick, and did so with low budgets. Lotsa 'bolt-on' recipees

Quote

I used to sound just like you. In 2000 for the Englishtown meet I made Tshirts that said "revenge of the 2.6" because Buschur made swapping 4G63's popular.
doubt it, cause we think nothing alike. Bushur, and Alex, pierceJ, 510, joedog, Plebani, etc... were ALL DSM guys. What else would u expect them to power their starquests' with ? Revenge ?

Quote

Not sure why you're talking about Grand Nationals either, I'm not criticizing a decade I'm criticizing Mitsubishi's 70's engine tech not every old engine. Either way, a stock GNX ain't lifting a tire on launch with 250HP and 350 torque!
GN is not a GNX. Nobody said stock anything. GN I described ran 10.6 full wt airconditioned
GN metioned because it's V6 similar to a 54 torque characteristics, only it revs lower and is older tech. Silly reason to discount either

I've said this before.. with a moded 4 spd auto tranny behind, & GN-caliber electronics managing, I really believe a G54 can outperform a GN, turbo for turbo. Based on seeing how quick 5 spd 54s have gone, also owning a SQ and GN at the same time

#26 Turbo Cary

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Posted 09 October 2018 - 06:34 AM

 jinx, on 08 October 2018 - 10:59 PM, said:

u have a RHD miata ?  cool!

if u goin rods.... looks like u r only, piston and valvesprings away from "serious power"

check out this monster 1.6L:  https://www.youtube....h?v=AiSxYmRC6s4
precision 6262, rods/pistons, STOCK head with upgraded valvesprings. 547hp?
says head lifted past 40psi, so turned boost down n went mid 10s. Now with bigger head studs & 40+psi, will try for hi 9s

yeah, swap whatever u like in a starquest.... but consider G54 proven performance vs.... and the economics, was all i'm sayin

I have a 99 1.8 engine as well I plan on really building. The 99 motors had the VICS intake manifold which is a electronic dual runner setup that has improved low end torque characteristics.

Essentially I wanted turbo power now and not wait a year or so for me to go through the 99 engine. I own 3 Miatas. The 90 RHD, a 92 parts car that my 1.6 turbo setup came off of (has the big nose 1.6 crank vs my 1990 short nose) and a 99 parts car with a turbo on it.

I also snagged some Kelford 256 turbo cams off the forums for cheap and was smart enough to also upgrade to a Boundary engineering billet oil pump. I'll probably run 20 psi max, enjoy it till the 1.8 is done and maybe build an Exocet with my turbo 1.6 as a power plant for that.

The Exocet is made in GA and all the Miata suspension and engine components bolt right up to it. Would make an awesome track car or something fun to drive in the summer.

#27 jinx

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Posted 11 October 2018 - 08:16 AM

u got a good plan, and looks like miatas r your happy zone

....and since some like to sing how expensive g54 modding is..... let's compare that lightweight monster miata posted
custom exhaust manifold + standalone + gearbox adapt, cost the same
intake manifold; he grafted on a $450 edelbrock B-series for hi rpm
    g54 grafts on a $50 mazda intake (i chose fwd sr20, as ports line up too). No need for hi rpm, when u got 4-500 ft lbs tq
connecting rods: mazda 1.6/1.8 guys will tell u about their limits
    g54 needs no stinkin upgrade rods for 95% of us, proven
pistons: flyin miata wiseco $850
    g54 dads wiseco $550 PLUS, do we even know 54 oem piston limits?? Also NPR offer $150 cast replacement. Some DSMs run $100 NPR past 500hp, 35+psi. I'm told NPR made original DSM slugs
valvesprings: flyinmiata $470 set of 16. G54 needs 8
Don't forget that $300 oil pump & $500 damper ...and it goes on

get your calculator :D

#28 Turbo Cary

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Posted 11 October 2018 - 12:31 PM

See there's the thing about my Miata, a lot of parts are interchangeable without modification to make it work. That 300 dollar oil pump, 400 dollar Eagle Rods, and ARP head studs can all go right into my 1.8 without any modification, they will bolt right up.

I have no plans to run an ATI damper pulley cause I have read their quality is a little poor and the TDC notch isnt correctly done on the pulley. Valve springs I haven't purchased yet but they are interchangeable if I recall.

My ECU for my 1.6 can run on a 1.8 without modification. Even if I get a VVT engine i only need to run a few extra wires for it to work.

Pistons for the Miata can be had cheaper than what FM sells them for. What are the options for the G54? Just one brand? How much custom stuff and head aches do you have to have before you finally just say screw it? For me it was 6 years. After owning mine for that long I got tired of the issues they have.

I wanted something I can just buy parts for and assemble. Save myself time and money. Not to mention 90 percent of the stuff is cheap to buy.

#29 Funky Phil

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Posted 11 October 2018 - 02:58 PM

Swap it, and give me all your parts.
10.95@122mph MoFuggin stickshift! https://m.youtube.co...h?v=8Q01UKt5q4U

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#30 jinx

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Posted 11 October 2018 - 07:58 PM

TC, I think u missed the point.
Did a parts breakdown of that example, showing how a G54 build can come out way cheaper by comparison

Quote

Pistons for the Miata can be had cheaper than what FM sells them for. What are the options for the G54? Just one brand?
1. Stock... if still good. Seen one car dyno'd 400hp. Stopped because owner was more than happy with performance... who knows their limit?
2. NPR cast just mentioned. If they stand up to that sorta DSM punishment, I would not hesitate to run 'em.
3. Wiseco
4. ACL cast inexpensive replacements ran in a few powerful G54s on sigma-galant
...and there r more. How many 'options' does one really need ?

Friend just let a few guys have turns taking his turbo LS girl for a twirl. Forgot to turn on the meth kit. Hotlapping= rings broke pistons
Took him THREE tries to get the correct replacement pistons/rings... for a freakin Chevy Avalanche 5.3
His MSD Atomic standalone was expensive too (a few years back). I guess that's what "tons of options" can get you

#31 SFBMX88

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Posted 13 October 2018 - 03:37 PM

View Postjinx, on 11 October 2018 - 07:58 PM, said:

I guess that's what "tons of options" can get you

Much more of those options are also still being produced though.  How much are you paying for a BRAND NEW OEM injector or igniter from Mitsubishi?  As time goes on, parts will just become more scarce and expensive.

Hey, any engine management is gonna be $$$$.  He couldve just as easily tuned the factory PCM with HPtuners or EFI live, both of which wouldnt need any modifications to the existing harness.  Either way, its gonna need tuning time paid for.  What management are you going to run with your MPI?

Also, the K series motors have no issue moving cars with similar weight as ours.  3300lb Accords and TSXs are both powered by K24s and move just fine.  Manual TSXs are 6 speed though, so gearing plays a big part.  Stock bottom end, pump gas, turbo K24s are also known to make 400hp+  on just 10psi too.  All depends on your goals with the car.  Mild/fun street car and lower budget?  Stick with the G54.  Big power G54?  How long before you break that KM132?

Its your time/money/car.  Do whatever floats your boat.

#32 Turbo Cary

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Posted 13 October 2018 - 03:44 PM

 SFBMX88, on 13 October 2018 - 03:37 PM, said:

How long before you break that KM132?

Its your time/money/car.  Do whatever floats your boat.

I grenaded my KM trans doing a 2nd gear pull putting down around 400 ft/lbs of torque.




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