Tim_C. Posted February 5, 2009 Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 Well, my expert alignment and race set-up friend was quite impressed with the camber plates. He installed them front and rear, and says they will certainly work and will help a lot on a road race course. He was very surprised at the price I said I paid too. He says comparable plates for most any car are nearly twice the cost if not 3 times more. He says the rear plates don't do as much as the fronts of course, but they take the nut all the way to the edge of the access hole, so you can't go any further without slotting and grinding, etc.. I am out of town and won't get home 'til Saturday, so I can't test them yet. He put an aggressive street setting on them, and says I can simply move the fronts out further for race, but to not move them all the way to the aggressive end as that would require resetting the toe also. I will continue to post on this thread after doing some testing. I also had more mechanic friends who were quite impressed with the plates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazilBoy Posted February 5, 2009 Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 Thank you now this is a review I can stand behind. I will see about getting some this summer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael knight Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 Agreed. The camber settings can be very aggressive with them versus some makes including tein which can only go -%2.5 on some cars like an rx7. Not only that but prices are good. Why get so so stock strut mount replacements when you can upgrade for the same price. My alignment tech doesn't mind them at all. Just my $.02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey_L Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 what is an "aggressive" street setting. Can you get a scan of the alignment report that way we can start to build a thread about different alignment settings. As of now we have no data on other then factory alignment specifications. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael knight Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 what is an "aggressive" street setting. Can you get a scan of the alignment report that way we can start to build a thread about different alignment settings. As of now we have no data on other then factory alignment specifications. Here's some good links for suspension newbs like me. For racing in which you want grip you need a balances car in between over steer and under steer. For drifting you want mad tyte over steer. Here a a couple good links breaking down suspension, terminology, what does what, and how to trouble shoot and find what works for you. Also, Firestone offers alignment for life for around $140. If you plan on adding suspension parts one at a time or tracking your car I recommend getting it and building a good relationship w/ the alignment techs. Some of my friends go in before every monthly race to tweak things. Hope this helps some. http://www.advancedracing.com/chassissetup.php http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm#suspension For different racing styles you will need suspension set accordingly, obviously. My best recommendation is to go to the track and ask the fastest guys out there what they are set at. Then copy them and see what works best for you following the principles discussed in the above links. I run autoX mostly and here is the guide I was told: -1.5 Camber in front -1.0 Camber in rear Max caster -.3 degrees Toe (OUT) in the front. .05 degrees Toe (IN) in the rear. (yeah, just about 0) However, I think my rear camber is more like -1.5 and the front is-2. This works fine on the street except for the tow-out. Great for quick turn-ins but likes to wonder on the freeway. Can't remember the caster off the top of my head but using the stock tension rods I wa able to work it past stock parameters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted February 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2009 Yes, I have the report. I just got home today and drove the car from the alignment shop to my friend's shop. I'll try to get the report scanned and posted early next week. I am a bit disappointed as the car looks to be squatting a little in the rear, and the overall height is too high. My alignment guy told me it is actually sitting level, but the StarQuest normally sits higher in the rear. My ST springs are a bit too high in the front with all the weight loss I did up there. No AC, Balance Shafts removed, no Jet Valves, no ABS modulator, aluminum flywheel, lightweight alternator bracket, no charcoal cannister, No Air can, lightened rods, forged pistons, etc.. It all adds up to less weight than the ST springs were designed to hold. The rear camber plates are clocked so the top of the strut is toward the outside of the car as much as possible without any cutting of the mounting holes, etc.. The front plates are about as close to the outside too. The washer on the one camber adjusting bolt is pretty much as far out as it can go without cutting the big center hole on the car. I can go a little more, but not much. It isn't so aggressive that it will wear tires too fast. I want some longevity out of the tires. I don't race the car normally, but I may take it out to an autocross race to see how it does. We put Fusion tires on it. They were a middle of the spectrum tire that he recommended without spending a lot of money for a tire that will wear out quick. They look awesome. 245/45's on the rear and 225/50's on the front. We could get rid of the squat look by going shorter on the front, but then the wheel well will show more, so I think I will leave them on there for now to see if it grows on me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nomad Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 I, with the help of 87Quest-tsi and Minagera, installed mine with new KYBs and stock springs. I have not had it aligned yet, be will next weekend. The photos are to show the differences in ride height. There is a soda can on top of the front tire in the new picture just to show the tire to body height. before (all stock 96k miles) http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll231/nomad1856/IMG_0885.jpg After (MK1 camber plates F&R, KYB GR2 F&R, Stock springs) http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll231/nomad1856/IMG_1213.jpg http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll231/nomad1856/IMG_1214.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 Had you driven the car around before that after picture was taken? It looks alot higher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minagera Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 Drove it around a fair piece as I imagine. They just sit high. Stock being 25" off the ground (or so) and that setup is is 27 1/4"... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pagemo Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 Drove it around a fair piece as I imagine. They just sit high. Stock being 25" off the ground (or so) and that setup is is 27 1/4"... did you cut the perches or install on top of the perches? tell me thats not all of the way down:(. I cut my perches off completly and welded new rings about an inch lower than the stock perch I can adjust mine until the front crossmember is about 4" off the gound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minagera Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 that is stock with stock top hats, no cutting no nothing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nomad Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 I had driven about 100 miles on the new stuff when I took this photo this morning. Nope, nothing was cut. Factory perches in the the front and the KYB perches in the rear. It looks like its ready to rally in the gravel. And the perspective from the drivers seat is weird. It feels like I'm in one of those cross over suv types. But with the ST sway bar and the new struts, its impressive grip, even at this height. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89PalermoSHP Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 So are you going to leave it like this? http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll231/nomad1856/IMG_1213.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 did you cut the perches or install on top of the perches? tell me thats not all of the way down:(. I cut my perches off completly and welded new rings about an inch lower than the stock perch I can adjust mine until the front crossmember is about 4" off the gound. Scott....You got anypics of what you did? I'm getting these but no way i would raise my car...that complain needs to be slammed....3 1/2 to 4 at least.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sully Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 (edited) what is an "aggressive" street setting. Can you get a scan of the alignment report that way we can start to build a thread about different alignment settings. As of now we have no data on other then factory alignment specifications. Says who? Every car is different. What works for me probably won't work for you. Tires, springs, sway bars even chassis stifness effects the best setup. Its all trial and error. We've spent 3 days dialing in the 07 Mustang last year for the ProSolo. We switched from 275 Hankooks to 315 hoosiers this year now we start from the beginning. Takes a while but its worth the free ride w00t! Good rule of thumb: Front camber will probably be around 2 to 3 degrees depending on the tires you use. Start with a small amount of toe out, say a sixteenth of a inch each side, 1/8" total. At the rear try about 1 degree of camber and 0 toe. Then adjust from there Edited February 10, 2009 by Sully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted February 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Mine looks about the same as the car above. I want to try and lower the front. Any advice is welcome. I have the ST springs, KYB strut inserts and I left the strut housing unmodified. The KYB struts were a tad short, so we used a 1/4" thick washer in the bottom of the housing so the top strut housing nut would meet the strut and tighten up all the way. Cutting the strut housing would only gain me a 1/4". Would cutting the springs do anything? I'm thinking not since the spring must be compressed to bolt the camber plate on. Also, my camber plates are adjusted out much more toward the outside of car than the red car in the pic above. The hole between plate and body toward the inside is much larger after the alignment. It looks to me that would also raise the car some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Venable Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 your best bet to lowering the car with the front camber plates would be to get coilover sleeves. Not sure if Mookee still sells those or not, since he's got the full coilover kit now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nomad Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 So are you going to leave it like this? No, I eventually will do something with it. I'll have to brainstorm with my local spiritual quest advisors to see what can be done. But, as funny as it looks, it really does handle well. There are other issuse with the car that need to be addressed in the mean time. Such as MPI install before PF09! And.... I think with this setup my air dam is pretty safe, haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael knight Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 ^ Hear ya on the air dam. LOL. I want to drop mine another inch or 2 but I'm pretty sure I'm going to scrape evrything. for lowering get some coilovers sleeves and springs, then drop it like its hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted February 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Here is my alignment sheet after the camber plate install. __87TSiAlign1.PDF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted February 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 I just noticed he used the specs for a '86 Dodge Conquest to align it to. I wonder if those are flat body specs, and if the widebody specs are different? I would think they are since the parts are all different including the offset wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Venable Posted February 13, 2009 Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 yeah the 86 Dodge Conquest is the flatty, the 86 widebodies are all Plymouths Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted February 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2009 Thanks. I'll have to call him about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnriggs Posted February 19, 2009 Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 I've got the MOOKEEH camber plates with NOS Tokico Blues (front and rear) and now need to drop all four corners. Will the Eibach Pro Kit springs provide sufficient drop? I was thinking I needed a 1.5-2.0" drop in the front (although I think they only drop 1.0 in the front and 1.5 in the back). Would I be better served getting the TEP springs that drop 1.25 all four corners, or will the Eibachs do fine? I love the camber plates but am concerned how to maintain correct ride height with a strut/spring/camber plate combo. Thanks, mnriggs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Venable Posted February 19, 2009 Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 I have mookeeh's camber plates front and rear (rear are the adjustable pillow ball mount) and I measured that the front will raise you 25mm over the stock isolator/bearing. the rears that I have, the height difference is only a couple mm, so a non issue for me. so to level it you'd want to lower the front by 1" or so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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