boostintsi

Yea, your gonna blow it up at 20psi on 16g with stock injectors......unless your running crazy high fuel pressure but that's not good either and don't think you could compensate enough

Im interested in a set, if you still have one for sale let me know. Thanks

Ptfe is the hose type. It's Ptfe lined meaning safe for gas and oil and also higher pressure rated than a standard rubber lined stainless line. If you look it's a plastic or Teflon type liner not rubber.

Do you have wiper cowls by chance?

I've run a tial on every turbo car I've had and that is what we recommend to every customer in need of a valve. They are pricey but they LAST, will be the last bov you ever buy for the vehicle. Very good quality made in the USA. They also have good customer support and rebuild kits are cheap and readily available as are the different springs. What turbo are you running? It could be that the reference hose is too small as ucw458 had mentioned or you have surpassed the flow of the valve, or it is leaking. The bigger the reference the better they work. My tial recommends a 6mm reference I believe, that's a big vacuum line. That valve should snap open quickly did you boost leak the car? A leaky bov on reference side will absolutely cause poor operation sluggish response, as well as the piston not opening fully. Not to mention a boost leak anywhere is bad for performance and bad for turbo and engine life. over spinning wreaks havoc in shafts and bushings/bearings as well as intake temps. I boost leak my car every time i change the oil for peace of mind and also to catch little problems before they turn into big ones. Its a normal part of turbo vehicle maintenance. More often then not when I boost leak a customer car there's at least one or two little leaks be it from a charge pipe coupler or vac line fitting, throttle shafts, sensor bugs anything that sees pressure. If it hasn't been leak checked I'd highly recommend not only for testing the bov but also overall system performance.

Ok after multiple runs and inspections I have not had it reoccur. I'm going to leave the spacers for now. They are not moving I verified by marking indicating spring to spacer, spacer to cap. I purged the lifters in solvent and the number three intake lifter had some junk in it as well as number 1 exhaust, the bleed hole on number three intake rocker was also blocked. Checked out the valve guides and I'm confident that's not the issue. Rocker arm bores are slightly questionable as are the shafts but the tops of lifters and rocker arm lifter seats look perfect. There is wear marks on the bores and shafts but nothing crazy. I do want to replace arms and shafts but for now it seems to be working well and valve train is silky smooth. I'll be sending out the cam to be checked on cam doctor but other than that my diagnosis is a combination of a lifter possibly getting stuck due to contaminants and or not being able to bleed off and weak springs allowing it to jump over. Possibly the wear on rockers and shafts is not helping but with the pressure against them now I don't seem them coming back off. Gonna be checking periodically to inspect and make sure nothings wearing uneven before swapping the new stuff on to the setup though. Thanks guys for the help and Phil lmk if you want a set of these.

I would definitely boost leak it, I've only seen a handful that actually sealed. Not sure on the reasoning behind testing without the vac line tho? The valve works by pressure differential, the spring is only there to hold it closed at idle theoretically on boost the valve should not move even if there were no spring, it sees boost on both sides. The vacuum it sees when you let off the throttle and the boost still in the charge pipe are what open it. That's why BOV springs are rated in vacuum not pressure. it's there to hold the valve closed at idle and any condition not in boost once your in boost the spring is a non issue. When you shim those valves it affects how much the piston can actually open, affecting the flow of the valve, not good. I would take out all the washers and boost check the system as it would be running on the car, closest thing to real world operation. If it doesn't piss out of the piston assembly under boost leak(leak being a faulty and leaking valve) mark the valve with a sharpie with the car off in its closed position, start up the car and see if it stays closed, if it does and it did not bleed pressure with boost to both sides your golden, if it doesn't the right way to adjust is with a stiffer spring. Personally I've seen too many turbo xs valves that leak to have any confidence they seal up unless it's brand new out of the box. They are not precision made and it is a part that needs to be very precise to work properly. The bronze or brass piston they use usually scores due to loose tolerances and movement of the valve. That or the o ring is blown out and people try to compensate for it by jamming shims in there to get it to seal. If the valve blows when your on the throttle under boost it's because it's leaking from the manifold side either through the cap or the piston creating a pressure differential and allowing it to open.

Thank you all for the replies and knowledge it's very much appreciated. The engine was rebuilt roughly 4000 miles ago with the exception being I reused the rocker arms, shafts and springs. When I disassembled originally the first thing the rocker assembly got was a chemical bath before being disassembled. Not to say that I did not damage anything but care was taken. As it was when I disassembled a couple days ago. My rebuild included new non jet head from randy with new valves, guides seals etc. I am incrediblyjz always monitoring oil pressure and temp cooling temps, wideband etc. Every time I drive the car it is being logged and logs looked over afterwards. I would be surprised if my valve guides are worn but I did not think to even check because of low miles and care put into the build and every time it's ran. I'm about to pull the valve cover to inspect as I just we not for my first run with spring spacers in just letting her cool down a bit. You made some good points Tim C. 1. I was able to pull the rocker assembly out of the head and with no bolts in place it had not the slightest desire to pop out of place. Now maybe that's a tell in itself that possibly my rocker arms are binding as well and holding it together. But after a quick bath I easily slid everything apart. 2. I touched on the valve guides above but good point and I will inspect shortly. 3.the initial noise I heard was to my ears the definition of a dry lifter. It quickly pumped back up , but still had a bit of an odd noise hence my pulling the cover to inspect. Seems like a real good possibility. 4.the rockers, I definitely want to replace the rockers. They were not scored but did show a more polished witness marking on half the bore than the other half. Indicating to me out of round. This is very good possibility as well. 5. What Randy mentioned about the uneven cam lobe, I will inspect shortly but by eye I don't think I'll be able to see that. The wear/witness on the slippers and the cam lobe looked uniform to me to the eye so I didn't put another thought to it. I am looking for a stock cam to put in the car for right now so I can have my unknown tep cam put on a cam doctor by a friend who has access to one, that will tell for sure. 6. As to the spacers I made up, I wasn't worried about wear because I installed them between the spring and cam cap where they shouldn't see much repetitive movement. I also installed a bronze shim between the spring and rocker arms for that purpose exactly so hopefully the spring won't move at all. Aluminum shavings from the spacers were a concern of mine but I plan on inspecting every run for a while. I just ordered a bunch of valve cover gaskets lol thanks again guys. I'll report back after another, closer inspection.

I guess it could be valve float, I just haven't taken this motor over 5000 yet with current setup due to timing and a couple other issues. If I remember right seat pressure on the springs was about 160 or 170 at .5. Nothing too crazy but at that seat pressure they shouldn't float, even at 5500. Definitely doesn't sound like they're floating but it is possible. What springs were you using when getting float over 5500 Phil? Let me see how the spacers work if it seems like it did the trick I'll send you some. Pretty quick and easy to make up I had some thick wall extrude honed .750 id tubing that I turned down a bit and parted at .5 inch. Definitely stiffer, I had to drop bolts in the caps to get it to stay together. Gonna install today and check to make sure the rocker arms are centered with the valve stems. I have a sneaking suspicion that possibly the cam caps may need some material either taken off or for the rocker to be shimmed against the cap to get properly centered. After looking at the rocker assembly it just seems like there's lots of room for improvement. I don't like the idea of only relying on a spring to hold the rocker arm in place when the results could be so catastrophic if it slipped out far enough. Maybe a circlip and shim setup might work, although there's not much shaft meat to work with. There's got to be a better way. Tsi tom, the cam caps were properly torqued. The cap torque really has nothing to do with the rocker arm though, the only thing holding the rocker arm in place is the spring tension against the rocker which is stopped by the cap, as bad an idea as that sounds( at least to me). I mean if a cam cap came off completely sure, but that would be a real mess.

I guess I can see that happening although I haven't revved my motor high enough yet to float the springs in my motor. Also if they were floating and slipped off to the retainer I'd expect some damage. Everything checked out ok so I turned some spacers out of 6061 stock I had laying around. Definitely much stiffer I dont see them slipping off anymore although I will be checking the first few runs out with the spacers.

Thanks Phil, I was thinking the springs have probably weakened a bit over the years. My valve train was swapped over from my original head. Guess I should have replaced everything at the time. If the shafts check out ok maybe I'll just make up some delrin spacers for now.

So, while driving today I noticed a bit of a lifter tick and slight valve train noise. I pulled the valve cover off to check it out, I figured an oil hole was getting blocked or somthing. Well, come to find out cylinder 3 intake rocker arm had slid forward about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Just enough for the lifter to catch on the retainer and stop it from causing serious damage. There's literally a mile on the car ran like this, I checked it out as soon as I heard it. To my surprise after pulling rocker shaft assembly off, the lifter still looks good as well as the valve and retainer. I'm thinking the bit of play in lifter saved me here. I'm going to replace the lifters regardless for peace of mind but everything else still looks great visually. My question, has anyone else had this happen? If so why and is this common? I'm going to be sourcing new rocker shaft springs and gonna mic the shafts themselves and check to be sure they are perfectly straight and replace if neccessary. Just looking to see who else has ran into this and the fix. Even if I replace everything I'll be inclined to pull the valve cover every time I drive this thing for a while just to be positive it's not happening again. the joys of old mitsubishis, oh well still love the car.

Www . belmetric.com. I use these guys for a lot of automotive hardware. We order from them often and always good quality and pretty quick shipment. If you get your order in before 2 or 3 it's same day shipping.

Also I realize that wastegate solenoid control is not utilized but I still want to know which wires they are.

OK, So just got out to take a look and the wire colors you provided and pinout seem to be exactly what im seeing in the FSM for an 88 manual trans. problem is its not matching up with the ignitor i have in front of me. I no longer have the connector and my feeling is either i have a strange ignitor where they used different color wires or they change color on the ignitor side of the connector from what youve provided. coming out of my ignitor and my knowledge of what they are for: yellow and white wires shielded, and in a seperate loom. the only two that are seperated from others and in their own loom-Distributor signal wires red shielded-im assuming this is the knock sensor signal wire because the diagram only shows 3 shielded wires blue white trace-ign coil (-) red-switched power black- ground? or is unit grounded through case? brown-? orange-? light green-? green-? so either i have an odd model year ignitor box in front of me or the wire colors shown in the diagram and what scott provided change to different colors on the ignitor side of connector.